Hello,

I have two 5-HP pumps on my pool that are wired for 30-amps at 220-volts. I bring the pumps in each winter and I'm tired of disconnecting them. I'd like to replace the wire with a 30-AMP waterproof plug. Has anyone done this and is it okay to do? I got the idea from my boat which has 30-amp plugs.

Thanks,

John

Hayward HeatPro In Ground Heat Pump HP21104T​

Started using my heater this season and noticed yellow insulation stuck to the fan grill. I looked around thinking a critter got in and didn't see anything...should have dug deeper. A few weeks later, I saw a rat and it ran into the water discharge pipe area. Ah, S%$t! Put out a bait block and next morning it was nearly all eaten. Today I removed the top and side and found something covering the compressor. A bit of reading later, it's called "compressor blanket". Its sole purpose is noise reduction...it's actual use, rodent nest. I pulled it out and the bottom of my heat pump is full of rat droppings and chewed up insulation. It's going to take some doing (and danger) to clean this. Don't see the dead rat, but there are a few spots of blood. I'm going to pull the entire unit out and take it to the driveway, lay it over (on the removed control panel area) and blast the stuff out (while being masked) with a garden hose. NO COMPRESSED AIR!!!! Rodent urine and droppings can be dangerous--sweeping and compressed air will aerosolize them for you to inhale. Think Hanta virus. Then I can get in and inspect every inch of every wire to find where they were chewed. If this didn't cost so much, I'd just replace it...it's that bad. Recommendation, take off the top grill and remove the compressor blanket before it becomes a nest. Use metal to seal around the water pipes and electrical whip to prevent entry.

I noticed yesterday that My Ichlor 30 SWG has a slow leak, measured at 4 oz per hour. It appears to be coming from underneath the small black housing that the temp sensor screws into. No signs of a leak at the sensor itself. My unit is almost 4 years old so out of warranty. Researching here and on Reddit, I've seen a few with the same issue, but no posted root cause or solutions (other than replacing the entire unit).

Has anyone had this problem and found an economical solution to the leak?

I’m planning to replace my single speed Hayward pump with a VS Intelliflo that I got for free.

The Intelliflo has 2” fittings vs the Hayward 1.5” - I already have pool unions to handle this. But, the Intelliflo inlet is a couple of inches higher and needs to be an inch closer to the closest suction line (the closest line is my main drain). I don’t think I will have enough room to fit it in and I don’t love the short straight run into the pump either way.

Any suggestions to handle this? I was thinking of cutting all three lines near the ground and bring the whole section back away from the pump and up as a single piece but that seems a little lazy. Another idea I have is to raise straight vertically and reroute the closest suction line with the others into a 4 way fitting but I think that will require all new valves and fittings. My last idea is to hire out the job but I would like to know how I want it done first!

Thanks!

Opened up my plunge pool it’s around 1500 gallons. Keep getting a soapy bubbly water. Checked water chemistry it’s fine. Pool also have a pool defender zinc anode that is leaking. Want to get rid of soapy water and wondering if pool defender anode is necessary for if I could just replace with pvc?

This is my first time opening my pool. The installer is coming to open it up in 4 days (replug salt water generator, remove plugs, etc) but they do not do the water chemistry, so I decided to do it myself.

I work from home so I can closely monitor it.

The pool is very dark green.

I am in Canada (Montreal) so we had to wait this late to open because spring came here late.

I have found good guides on here to open to a green pool but I have a few specific questions.

1) I do not have a vacuum to waste option. I have 2 filters (1 used from last year and 1 new).

I was thinking of using the used one for opening the pool and then using the new one for the rest of the season.

Will the filter be able to filter a green pool like this? If not, I have a shop vac, I also have a transfer pump (plug my regular hose on it to empty a bit the pool sometimes or to empty ponds).

Was also thinking of buying a cheap pump and creating a portable vacuum. Might be overkill haha.


2) my other question is:
Should I do a full test with my Taylor kit while the pool is green like this? Where do I start? When do I start testing?


Thanks!!

This is regarding the main, big o-ring. Not sure what its condition is, but if it looks ok, I will reuse it. I have this: https://www.amazon.com/3-ONE-Multi-Purpose-PTFE-Lubricant/dp/B00J25JDDY

Can I use that to lubricate it, or do I need silicone o-ring grease?

22k Gal in ground Gunnite pool.
TA - 90
PH - 7.5
FC - 5

2nd summer with pool and just dialing it in and starting to swim.


App is telling me I need to raise Ph as well as lower TA.

PH was 7.8 for a week and I kept slowly adding in muratic acid a couple times a week to try and get it down.

Just want to verify. I believe I need to add muratic acid and lower ph to 7.0-7.2 then aerate to increase Ph only. Assuming my water falls will help with this. Never had TA go out of balance last summer.

Ive had several calcium deposits that I scrape off but now something different. This is not a regular calcium streak (crack?)
Just a weird calcium lump?

Hey there. So we had a very green pool at start up as our filter needed to be replaced. Sand filter, in ground vinyl liner 25,000 gallons, SWG, Hayward VS pump. did use shock on the pool tow times.
Water chemistry using Taylor test kit:
TC/FC/CC. I can't tell. the test comes out more red than the 5-10 mark for TC/FC
Alkalinity- 80
PH - 7.5
CYA- 60
The filter has cleared quite a bit of the algea (been 10 days) but still cloudy. Can barley see the bottom of shallow end and deep end water has green tinge. can see some algea on the bottom. Tried to figure out what to do on here but confused! Any guidance would be greatly appreciated!

Getting “Omni controller lost connection to router” on my Omni app. I’ve had this before. Resetting the router always works.

Reached out to Hayward and they instantly sent me to contact a local company for warranty. Which I guess is fine, but prefer to trouble shoot it myself.

This is our first pool. Is this just environmental debris floating at the top of our pool? We put skimmer socks over the skimmer baskets and they have been coming out with a nasty light brown gunk. What can we do to get rid of it??

We had a power surge and a couple of my breakers were tripped. All have been set back and tested and appear to be working
Power is going to all other equipment but my Intelliflo pump. I have looked online and it sounds like it went into Safe Mode. And and sounds like there is a way to remove it (pushing multiple buttons at one and holding etc). Does anybody know this trick?

Hello,
I am about to purchase my first pool. I have read so much stuff that I'm not sure where to start, now. I am looking at a Laguna 16x24 Oval resin hybrid.
I thought I wanted a DE filter/pump. But after reading various statements I don't know if I should stick with a sand filter or the cartridge filter. I'm here trying to learn what all I need to get my pool setup properly.

Okay with the OLD POOL MATH CACULATOR, under BORATES there are 3 choices to add to pool, Borax, Boric acid and Tetraborate Pentahydrate. Is Borax also called Tetraborate Pentahydrate? Moreover, want to purchase Duda Boric Acid Granular. And that would be correct, not the powder?

I have a 36,000 gallon rectangular shaped pool with two horsepower pump. I've always had air bubbles from one of the return Jets. And I suspect that the air is being sucked in through the filter canister lid right next to the pump and motor. It seems like the amount of bubbles can be affected by how tight the lid is, and how new the lid o-ring is. But even with a new o-ring, it's still blows bubbles out of the jet in the pool. I rarely get debris in that filter basket because I have a filter basket in the vacuum hose in the swimming pool that catches most of the debris. So I am thinking about just putting in a new o-ring, and adding silicone around the O-ring and the groove and the lid, and giving it a day or two to set up just to see if that makes a difference. I know that I could have a real problem getting the lid off if I add the silicone, but at least I would know where the air is coming from. Maybe just put silicone around the outside of the lid after the lid is on? Suggestions?

PoolStored said:

Welcome to TFP!!!

First thing to do is get a test kit. Here is a link to the recommended kits. Get one with the salt test. I'd recommend the TFTestkits.net TF Pro Salt. Link-->Test Kits Compared

Black Algae
With black algae, the best method is to use a power washer (lower pressure the better, and wider tip, starting far away from the spots and moving in until it starts to blow the algae away). Then get a pressure spray pump, fill with the strongest liquid chlorine you can find and spray the areas with the LC with the pool pump off.

You will then need to run your FC at 20% of your CYA for several weeks.

Either way, as a result of having BA, after the few weeks of FC at 20%, you probably need to run FC at 15% of CYA for life of this plaster.

Click to expand...

PoolStored,

I'm dealing with this now and did for most of last Summer. It's a pain and I'm very tempted to try Suncoast's Super Black Algaecide. I keep reading on here to not use algaecides, but my wife and I are so frustrated. I travel a lot and it's hard to stay on top of it.

Talk me off the cliff of using algaecides!

I'll run tests for all chemicals later today and report back here. I need a detailed plan to get rid of this and keep it gone!!!

I have set my heater on OmniLogic to 97 via the app. A few seconds later, it reverts to 80 on the app. I’ve done this several times. Any idea why?

Pentair backwash valve "push-pull", 2" pvc. 3 yrs old.

Plunger well and truly stuck closed. Cannot twist or pull it. Lubricated O-rings at end of last summer.
Tried everything, even tried to bump it out with pump (collar unscrewed), doesn't budge.
Can twist a few degrees with great effort but afraid I'll break it.

Help!

Intellichlor is leaking. Just started dripping. It’s from the original builder about three years old now. Need a good source to clean it too if I’m going to take it apart. Any tips? See link for video.

Hi all, short time lurker / first time poster. We recently bought a house with an IG SWG pool so I've been reading about how to maintain. We are coming up on our first season to be able to use and so I've had a chance to start testing different aspects of it. Recently its been warm enough to test the salt cell (Aquapure 1400plc) and I am getting error codes 172, 183,184. From my online search, this represents an issue with the tri/flow sensor, which tracks because the module to select program A or B does not light up at all despite being plugged into the control board. I suspected there was an issue because even on warm days or when running the spa the aquapure salinity meter was reading 25500 ppm but my Taylor testing kit demonstrated closer to 3000 ppm.

Unfortunately, I don't know how old the current salt cell or components are, so I am trying to determine if there is a way to fix the current sensor (unlikely) or if I should 1) replace the sensor only or 2) replace all the salt cell components at once. If you have any insights on this it would be much appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Hello,
My name is Michele and my husband, Albert and I are taking on the task of managing our own pool maintenance. It's taking a lot of educating ourselves after the pool company we had wasn't being transparent. In the process, we've noticed some algae blooms (black). We've joined this site to gain more knowledge on how to keep our pool right throughout the year

We just opened the pool today and our AuqaRite S3 series circuit board just blew. Here is what we did…
1. Turned the power on to the pool-fine
2. Turned the power off to switch to backwash and turned back on-fine
3. Turned the power off to switch to rinse and turned back on- circuit board blew

It blows at the XFMR SECONDARY.
Not sure if I turned the power on too fast? This is the fifth summer with the pool and never had this issue.

Pretty experienced at this but getting around to dialing in post AZ winter here. PH is consistently testing high. I'm done adding anything as of right now, is it possible my reagents have expired? You can see my logs. I've added a bunch of MA and liquid chlorine. Both were just bought the other day. I also tested salt to 2800 and added probably about 1/8 of a 40 lb bag early this morning. Pump is running and just tested now at 2600? Going to test again later tonight to see if anything changed.

My pool boy is struggling with a green pool that keeps returning. If this keeps happening the pool boy will quit and ill have to hire someone. please help. Full story and pictures of pool and pool boy for reference.

We canceled our pool service around 1 year ago and started to maintain ourselves. Found this forum, got a robot and the TF test kit. We have since had algae that has kept returning driving my pool boy mad. Pool its about 10k gallons, with 3 return jets a skimmer and main drain. Initially we were just maintaining the chemicals but were not brushing weekly. We thought that the lack of brushing caused the green pool to keep returning. So recently the brushing was kept up at once or twice a week minimum. After we got the pool clear we would clean out the main filter. Recently I pulled the light out to see if a secret algae colony was hiding behind there. Unfortunately it seemed clean. We can't figure out why this algae keeps returning because we never let the chlorine get low. Im starting to think its circulation related. Not sure if my jets are pointed in correct setting or if I need to speed up pump.

Pool also has a variable speed pump and a SWG. Currently running ~35GPM for 10hrs a day for 21k total gallons filtered. Is that a good program? Still learning how to set up my variable speed pump. (I also have solar so in spring and fall I need to run faster to get it up to solar on my roof).

I’m trying to figure out exactly what is going on in my hot tub. This is not occurring in the rest of the pool. I brush twice weekly. The seats of the gunite have started to get a little rough, what I would describe as a slighty rocky surface, when you pass your hand over it. The steps down into the pool are smooth. This is only happening in the hot tub. I can post up to date drop testing if needed. Stangely it’s just the steps. The rest of the hot tub feels fine. If I use some fine sandpaper, it disappears for a week then reappears. Any help is appreciated

Our pool light (Hayward LPCUS11100 Universal ColorLogic LED Pool Light, 12-Volt -- in ground) is inoperable, and we are seeking recommendations for a different model. We really liked the functionality and various modes we could select; however, it's very expensive ($1,400) to replace and has terrible reviews. Assuming we replace it with a different model, is it likely the housing assembly will need to be replaced?

Anyone have any strong likes or dislikes to the Pentair IntelliBrite 5G LED COLOR Pool Light model?

Thanks for any advice/recommendation!

I recently opened my pool, and all the equipment is working well. We didn't try the heater as the pool inspector when we bought the house last fall said it was non-functioning but he didn't know why. Are you able to tell what I might be dealing with from these photos? Any tips on what service might need to be done to get it working?

Or maybe it's just not salvageable and we should start budgeting for a new heater?

Thanks!

Do I test the water in the pool first, or do I clean the pool then test it? I use strips!

Hello! I'm new to the forums. I recently acquired a 2009 Barefoot Spas 77LP hot tub. After getting everything wired up and spending a few days getting my water chemistry right (this site was a huge help the water chemistry) I noticed a few issues. We got in for the first time yesterday and I noticed that the air intake for the waterfall feature (and one of the other air intake valves) was spilling water.


After looking around online some, it seems like this is due to a leaking jet or an improperly installed jet? So, this morning I went to open up the cabinet and see if I could find a leaking jet. I did not find a leaking jet, but I did notice that the ozonator is leaking:

So again, I did some internet research. Since this leak only occurs when the hot tub is off (jets off) it seems like the solution is to replace the check valve (and possibly the Mazzei valve? not really sure what that is). Here is the picture of the line where the check valve is:


As you can see there is a black check valve and another white valve. So, here are my questions for y'all.
1.) Is there a difference between the black and white valves, or are they both just check valves? Can I just order two 1/4" ozone resistant check valves and install them here, or do I need to get another type of valve?
2.) Is it possible that the leaking air intakes are related to this? If not, what's the best way to identify an improperly installed jet if nothing is leaking underneath the tub (there is very little insulation in the cabinet and I can pretty clearly see that none of the jets are leaking underneath)?

Thanks in advance for your help!