Hello,
I am new to this forum. I am having my pool patio pavers replaced. It's a round gunite (25k Gal) pool and lots of cuts in the paver to fit the shape. So there has been some paver dust in the pool. The install is taking longer than expected. Any ways did have some dirt and sand like material at the bottom of the pool and it freely moved around. Figure I would clean it once they were done with the patio. Anyway the pool was running on schedule every day and for last two weeks it has dumping water into the hot tub and not the main pool. So much of the circulation other than the pump pulling water from the main drain in the pool. I am thinking this is my cause of the problem... Also it has been raining very hard here in northeast.

I added three gallons of shock and it seemed to loosen up a bit and then I had the water tested after and here are the results. Last pic is before I added phosphate remover and muratic acid.

Any help is appreciated.
Thank you

I’ve had an Intex above ground pool for 10 years and have had an Intex salt water filter pump with it. Last year I replace the salt water pump with an Intex sand salt water pump.
This year I need to replace the pool. However, the new pools don’t seem to have the same hose connections as my old pool. The one I had the hoses were threaded connections and the new ones seem to be all clamped on.
I’m concerned that I won’t be able to connect my salt water pump to a new pool.
Can anyone tell me what pool has the screw on, threaded hose connections that would work with my pump?
I want to get an Intex ultra pool 16 cx48 or 52.

My dogs love the saltwater in ground. They use it more than we do. There are pavers around the pool embedded in sand so there is always some sand around the pool. The pool has vinyl steps where the dogs and people sometimes go in. (The dogs actually jump in from the sides!) All that being said, sand accumulates on the steps but worse, right where the pool wall meets the bottom. I have a good robotic pool cleaner but it cant get to those spots. I ideally I would vacuum to waste and just use the hose, but I am looking for a way to vacuum that sand out of the corners and steps. Is there some sort of sock I can put in the skimmer and just use the hose like a home vacuum? It makes me nervous because the aluminum pole is sharp and could cut the liner which is new.
I thought about buying an electric pool cleaner but that runs into a lot of money I suppose. I would use it without the cleaning head and just let the plastic tube at the end suck up the sand.
Looking for suggestions on how to proceed.
Thank you in advance for your assistance
Ray

Intex 20110-2 system… Above ground, 8500g, seperate salt test stick says im in the correct range… please see video attached… my unit does not have a clear pipe to see it running. Its opaque plastic. i took it apart and used water right from the pool in the bucket. Itwill run like this for about 1 min, then the low salt 91 error occurs… would appreciate any help. Thank you… (edit: couldn’t figure out how to add video, so i added a screen shot pic of the white foamy LOTS of tiny bubbles, that are being created… and i added a pic with it off, and u will see no foamy white bubbles)

Hello, I have a problem pool on my hands.
here are the chemical levels.

10ppm cl
7.6ph
120cya
120alk
0 phosphates

Pool is clear where you can see the bottom. There is no algae as nothing brushes off the walls or floors. The filter is clean everytime i go to clean it. But the pool water is tinted green.

When I first came here and started doing my pool myself, it seemed so confusing and I was so unsure of myself in regard to testing/adding chemicals and so on.

Here it is, just a few months later and the opposite is true.

Several weeks ago, I posted in regard to my ph level. From the heat, sun and rain, no matter what, it hung out around 7.8. I know that’s not an issue but because we were getting so many afternoon thunderstorms, it would raise a little. I’d lower it to 7.5 and by the end of a day, it was always back to 7.8.

Someone here told me they bet that if and when my alkalinity lowered to about 60, I’d have an easier time getting it to stay at 7.5. So I waited for it to lower on its own. It’s been at 60 for two weeks. And my ph has stayed at 7.5 even with rain!

You do not get such info at the pool store or from a pool company hired to clean your pool!!!! You guys rock.

And my pool is consistent, clear, so clean, no burn of the eyes or weird skin feeling. It’s magic.

My in ground pool ladder is all rusted and keeps getting the vacuum stuck and I want to get rid of it. All the info I can find online says to loosen a bolt but there are no bolts. The ladder is sealed right into the concrete. Is there any way to get this out other than just sawing it off?

Hello TFP Community,

Long time lurker and first-time poster. (This website saved me from my green monster pool last year! ). I am in the process of picking out a new pool pump since the one I currently have is on its last legs. It’s a Hayward Super II 0.75HP. My pool has no spa or special features. The pump is strictly running to clean the pool and disperse chlorine. I have a 16k gallon, in-ground plaster pool. There is 230V of power.

I am leaning towards the Pentair Intelliflo3 VSF w I/O Board and I want to also get a SWCG. Based off the forum posts, the SWCG should be sized for 2x pool size so the IC40 seems appropriate. I want some level of automation but I don’t want to buy a separate automation center like the Intellicenter. It seems like the Intelliflo3 gets me there but it is unclear to what extent it gets me there. Additionally, it’s not clear if I can get away with not having the separate power center for the IC40 (seems possible from a forum thread I read but it’s not straight forward). I’m hoping the community can connect the dots for me on all of this. These are my questions:

-If I get the Intelliflo3 w/ I/O Board and the IC40, will I still need to buy the power center for the IC40 or will the pump be able to power the IC40?

-If I connect the IC40 to one of the relays on the Intelliflo3 with no Intellicenter, what level of control will I have on the Pentair app to control the IC40, if any?

-If there is basically 0 automation or coordination between the Intelliflo3 and the IC40 and they don’t “talk” to each other, should I opt then for a cheaper pump such as the Superflo VST?

-The Intelliflo3 comes in the 1.5HP and the 3HP. It seems the consensus is “bigger is better” so that you can run your pool at the lowest RPM possible so long as I am willing to pay the price difference. Is this understanding correct?

Thank you in advance. Let me know if you need me to provide more info.

I just refilled my pool after it sat empty for over a year. did some repair to decritive rocks, changed the main drain covers, replaced the return jets, replaced the lights with LED lights, new filter cartrages and skimmer basket. Started the pump and primed everything found a leek in the jandy valve. Have not tested the water yet but what should I start with as far as getting it upto speed? According to the pool math app I need 23 bags of salt so I will be adding that little at a time. Is there any chemicals I should start with?

My water is currently clear and levels all in check. However I believe I am battling mustard algae which slowly keeps coming back. I’m planning on cleaning everything and mustard SLAM etc. My filter cartridge is also due for replacement. Should I do the treatment and change the filter after most of the dead algae is off the surface or should I change the cartridge before I shock? Or maybe somewhere in between?

Just curious what some of you have been quoted for your warranty on new pool builds. What is the more common time frame as well as what happens if your pool builder goes out of business before your warranty is period over?

I opened my pool the week end before Memorial day. Water was crystal clear. Added 6 lbs cyanuric acid which brought me to 40PPM. Brought the PH to 7.6PPM from 7.2PPM, total alkalinity to 100PPM from 60PPM, calcium hardness to 240PPM from 180PPM, free chlorine to 3.5PPM from 0. Checked the water for 5 days straight. Everything was fine aside of adding a little chlorine. Put the solar cover on the Friday before Memorial day. It has been on since then. 3 years ago and the 2 years prior was a nightmare with chlorine lock. Took 12 to 16 gallons of 12.5% to get rid of it. Just went out to test the water and it is completely expletative out of wack. Chlorine is non existant an hour after dumping 2 gallons of 12.5%. Normally 42oz brings it up a little less than 1PPM, PH went from 7.6 down to below 7.0. Cyanuric acid is down to 10PPM from 40PPM. 5 days ago everything was fine! The only thing that is ok is the total alkalinity 100PPM. I'm demoralized. The weather the last 4 days has been way below normal temp wise and cloudy damp. There is a lot of pollen on the solar cover. Is it possible the solar cover is causing this? How is this possible?

Will pool in full shade suffice or must the sun have set? I’m guessing full shade works but hate to assume…

Thx

Went on vacation a few weeks back and came back to a green pool.

Immediately brought up to shock (25 FC) and noticed that i was quickly losing chlorine and kept on it for a few days, when i thought that I was in the clear. But can't seem to get the green pool back to clear. Here are my current levels.

Note I've been using the Job Lot Pool Shock (12.5% hypo) as my chlorine/shock..not sure if that would matter.

Here are my current levels:

FC 5.5
CC 1
PH 7.5
TA 40
CH 40
CYA 100

Any advice?

I typically buy Leslie’s Power Powder 70. It’s 70% Calcium Hypochlorite. Price has jumped to over $400. Thought I’d save some money and picked up some SodiumDichloro -s-Triazinetrione Hydrated

Pool has stayed cloudy since the switch. Was/am having issue that algae seems to build up quickly. Yes, it has been hot here in north Texas, but y chlorine leve is well above recommended

Any suggestions, comments, ideas. Thanks in advance

Pool plumbing sprang a new leak and wondering what the best approach might be to fix this. I could just tackle the new leak, image on the left, we have sprung a leak right above the pump. I tried marine epoxy, which worked on the pump on the right last year (see gray mess right above the pump image on right), but it didn't work on this latest leak. Would the best approach be to cut right below the T and simply redo the 10" going down to the pump? The T also has a hose valve on it that's never worked since I've owned it, so could redo the T and remove that if needed.

Option 2 is to redo more plumbing because I have a few band-aids in place as highlighted in image on the right: Pump on the left has this new leak above the pump, a cracked connection holding the check valve pipe to the pump with plumbers tape, and 2 stripped screw holes on the check valve, these other issues have been holding tight for past 2 yrs.

I might need to do the easiest fix first just to get up and running and worry about the rest later. But looking for input and suggestions. I did a quick trip to HomeDepot and they didn't have much in stock, probably going to have to order PVC online somewhere.


D

Now my drive motor went out so I’m back to needing a new bot.

What do you guys like?

I'm brand new to pools. Just bought my house in Feb. I had a pool guy, but he was inexperienced and never showed up so I fired him. I was recently told I made a very bad mistake and need confirmation. My pool is in ground, 20x40 3ft to 8ft. Estimated 33000 gallons. I had the pump, liner, and sand filter all replaced. Since owning the pool I've added 9lbs of dry stabilizer and used trichlor tablets in my skimmer. I was told I needed to shock it after rain and heavy use so I add a couple scoops of shock which is calcium hypochlorite. I also just bought 35 lbs of cal-hypo tablets to use in my inline feeder since my stabilizer is at 35 and I don't want it to increase Someone just told me a screwed up big time because I'm not supposed to mix chlorine types... am I in trouble here? Please advise

After looking into many different pool automation programs for the RPi. (myhydropi,Raspipool,nodejs,etc) we need help trying to install ONE to work.

We had myhydropi working for years but now with the updated RPi software and everything we cant get it to work.

We tried Raspipool and can not figure out what we are doing wrong with the install to make it work on
Home Assistant 2023.6.3
Supervisor 2023.06.4
Operating System 10.3
Frontend 20230608.0 - latest

Can anyone help us get this up and running.

We have a RPi 3, with a 4 channel power relay, 3 onewire temp sensors, 2 atlas scientific sensors (ph and orp), single stage pump (in one relay), and lights (in another relay)

we would like to incorporate it all into HA if possible.

Thanks

Matt

I use the Liquid Chlorinator (Sodium Hypochlorite 12.5% ) from Menards for regular day to day pool sanitation. Can I add Menards Chlorinating tablets (Trichloro-s-triazinetrione 99.3% ) to a inline chlorine feeder to maintain the pool while away for a week? Just read something about not mixing different chlorine types and wondering if this is safe. I can also use a floating tablet dispenser if its safer. Any thoughts...

I've got a fairly new (just barely over 2 years old) mastertemp 400 (propane) that has started leaking. In my research I'm going to need a new heater core and a new blower. I'm estimating those parts at around $1800. I've had the local pool company come out and look at it and they are getting some pricing to replace those parts . What I'm posting about is, should I repair or replace? Where we live, Southern Utah, we never use the heater. Like right now out water is around 100*. So I've thought about just adding a bypass (not currently plumbed with one) for now and maybe replacing the heater with something else. I hate that we've literally used it twice and it's just over 2 years old and it's going to need likely a couple grand in repairs. I've also considered replacing with a lower BTU heater since we don't use it, still add the by-pass and then just always run with the heater by-passed. What's everyone's thoughts?

Hello! I am a fellow CPO here in Florida! I have a local pool company that I just started up here in my hometown. The forums here have been a great help in the past and I finally decided to create an account a join this great community!

My Polaris P39 lives in the pool 24/7. So its 106 degrees today and some people are coming over to swim. I disconnected it and took it out of the pool and put it in the shade. But it's still 106 out there and will be completely dried out by the time I put it back in.

Does this damage the Pool sweep and/or hoses in the long run. Does it make it susceptible to cracking or anything like that?

Hi! Not sure if I'm posting in correct forum, but wanted to share my latest with our local Leslie's...
I only go to Leslie's for kids goggles or for cya testing since my eyesight doesn't like the view tubes anymore.. (I have 2 sizes).
I asked for just a CYA test & the rep pulled a bottle of test strips .I said no thanks as find them horribly inaccurate & that I use DPD testing.. He said they no longer do individual testing so I need my water fully tested as their new machines test everything. I knew I was in trouble...lol

My water tested as it did earlier in the am (perfect to me) but he questioned the high phosphate reading of 1423. (He was a bit shocked at our 6 ppm chlorine reading (we keep it at 6 ppm) but we got past that. The cya was right where I wanted it at 32 so I was good to go.
But he continued to stress the high phosphates & said the Canadian wild fire smoke debris is causing havoc in local pools (I'm in sw CT & we did have a couple days of hazardous air quality but that was well over a month ago) He said they're seeing a lot of "perfectly balanced pool water" with high phosphates & that it's eating up the chlorine fast. He said if this happens, we should buy Leslie's phosphate remover.

When I asked, he agreed to use a test strip on my water & compare it to their machine results. Of course he was surprised how inaccurate the strip was in comparison. I think he learned something..

I have no plans to remove phosphates. Our water opened sparkling clear, and is still sparkling clear. I'm a big believer in if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Maybe we'll nd up with an algae bloom and I'll have to eat my words.

What do the experts here have to say about the debris from the wildfire smoke causing high phosphates & whether there's any need to intervene? Tks!

I’m in process of SLAMing pool because I couldn’t get a FC reading after super chlorinating. I had my FC up over 25ppm. This was my pool 24 hours later. Dead Algae?

Afternoon poolers.

I am on my third Pentair Dolphin 920. These things keep messing up, and of course now I am out of warranty.

This latest one worked all last season and about a month into this season. Here's the weird thing. The last two ended up with the same issue: I'd turn it on and it would go five feet then turn off. This one works just fine...provided it doesn't attempt to go up a wall. Once it gets anywhere past level, it shuts off.

Has anyone ever experienced this issue before? Is there a fix? I'm to the point now where I'm just going to buy cheap cleaners and just know that I'll have to buy a new one every 2nd season or something.

As usual, appreciate you all.

2 years ago I purchased a property with a big koi pond and inherited a non-functioning pump. I was finally able to get it running after replacing some of the piping, but now have encountered a new problem.

Someone down the line had installed the impeller and plate together without stainless steel hardware so those suckers rusted out and everything got shredded on the wet side of the pump. The housing reads as Challenger PAC-FAB5HP (CFII-N1-5FE) so I bought replacements parts for a 5hp motor (replaced everything between motor and housing). I got all that together and fired her up and the thing cranked way more water pressure than I had ever seen it. After about 5min it starts to oscillate a bit and doesn't smell right, like overheating electronics, then eventually shuts off.
I actually just looked at the motor itself and it says it's an A.O SMith MOD. K48M2PA104A2 1 hp. Now I am thinking somewhere down the line someone pump in this motor instead of a 5hp pump and after reading in this forum it makes me think the motor is undersized, working too hard and overheating. Does that theory sound correct? If yes do you think the best course of action is to actually order parts for a 1hp motor (in which case I would probably have to get the correct housing for it??) OR do you think I should buy a new 5hp motor? Any other potential issues?

I have had a protruding bubble of water on the side of my liner in the shallow end. Today, to test for a leak anywhere, I used dye around skimmer, inlet and steps with nothing found. I decided to pull the bead away from track where the bubble was to capture some of the water. I wanted to verify if pool water or ground water. Tesing of pool water was 3800ppm of salt. Tesing of water in the bubble behind the liner was 800ppm. Question - can ground water contain some salt? I am assuming this now means that water is NOT from my pool. I just can't see how the salt PPMs would reduce that much. Thoughts from any of the experts?

Thanks!

Hi PoolGeniuses,
Religious follower of the TFP methods here. I test at home almost daily with Taylor Kit. I maintain my Chlorine levels per TFP chart (where is the old chart? I liked being able to see the whole table - the updated page is too fancy for me). Every so often, I go into Leslie's to buy chemicals and at the same time I have the water tested to compare their results to my own. They always tell me my phosphates are high, and I always ignore their recommendations to treat.
I have always had high phosphates (lots of landscaping around pool, etc.), but as expected they got even higher after I did a couple Metal Magic treatments last season (I have small amounts of Iron that I try to sequester to prevent stains). The phosphates are now reading 4000-6000 on pool store tests (I don't have the Taylor test for this).
I am thinking about treating the phosphates just to get them down to a more reasonable baseline, and to shut up the people at Leslie's. I will likely do a preventative MM dose at some point which I know will increase phosphates again. Questions...

1.) Should I bother to treat them? I have never had an algae issue, and I maintain proper TFP Chlorine levels. But still... 6000ppm seems like a lot.
2.) Best method to treat them? Any experience with SeaKlear Phosphate Remover? (No thank you to the 5+ gallons of Leslies diluted product that I would need)
3.) Do I need a clarifier if I use SeaKlear? Or can I just wait for the filter to clear it? I will start with a small dose and see how quickly it clogs up the filter. I have a cartridge filter so it will be a giant pain to remove this much phosphate... which is why I have avoided doing it thus far.

Thanks!!

After 7 years of use (4 months a year), my Pool pilot Nano has died and now I'm probably going back to just using a simpler using liquid bleach.

A little history: I was getting a low amp- check cell warning and running the test showed 0 amps and no output. Bought a new cell but the same warning happened. Took the head unit to the shop where I bought it and after internal inspection, I was told the unit itself is bad.

At $1300 (Entire new unit) for a replacement, it's a big chunk of money. I realize the advantage and convenience of my pervious SWG unit. Purchased it for $1100 7 years ago so the until cost me about $150/year without taking the cost of salt into account.

I searched TFP for some form of liquid chlorinators but most of the threads are old.

Hoping for some feedback here. Am I wrong in not replacing the SWG?