I've read mixed things about the Dolphins once they get a bit older and wondering if it's worth taking the risk on buying a used one.

I'm looking at an auction for a Dolphin E25 (maybe equivalent to the S100) that's probably 3 years old and being sold for parts as it seems to have some issues. I'm wondering if it's worth buying and trying to fix it. The availability of spare parts does seem a bit limited in the UK/EU and they're expensive enough that if you replace more than one major part you might as well buy a new robot with waranty.

Here's the description on the auction listing (and link Maytronics Dolphin E25 Robot Swimming Pool Cleaner | eBay):

Comes fully complete in good overall condition. No cracks or physical damage and tracks and cable all in good condition.

Purchased new a few years ago and has been used with out issue up until this summer.

It still works as you would expect, running through the three cycle options and moving around the pool, sucking up water strongly and climbing the walls to the water line. I can share a video as necessary of it in operation.

I had always used it with the mesh winter filters in the basket without issue. They got dirty so I threw them away with the intention of moving to use the ultra fine filters supplied originally.

These are now fitted and the robot continues to function but does not appear to capture very much in the basket. It seems to throw any items it captures up out of basket and out the top of the machine so that only the smallest out of rubbish is caught.

I have now brought a replacement cleaner and tested it with the new power supply and it works just the same. As such I believe the power supply is ok and it’s an issue with the robot. I have tested it with another set of filters which made no difference and have dissembled to clean and reassembled again, again with no difference.

As such whilst it works and runs as you would expect, I am selling as spares or repairs.

It may be a simple fix I can’t work out but I can find no one that will work on it in the uk and have exhausted my skills of diagnostics.

I have the box from the new cleaner in which I can package it. It’s the same make but a different model.

Included will be everything you need including the robot cleaner, filter basket with ultra fine filters fitted, main tether, power cable and power supply.

The power supply is the advanced Bluetooth version (the robot is not Bluetooth compatible though) and powers on and filters three the three options. As such it could be used as a spare for another robot if needed.

Click to expand...

I've got an indoor pool so have minimal debris, I'm mainly looking for something to brush the floor and walls. Am I going to waste my money trying to use this as-is for ~1/4 of the price of a new one?

Hi all, new user here. Just bought the pool Math premium subscription and starting to take matters into my own hands. Also relatively new to owning a pool.

I have a variable speed Hayward pump, in ground pool with SWG and Hayward heater.

On higher RPMs everything seems good, but on lower RPMs, say around 1725rpm, I am noticing the pump basket seems to have a lot of splashing around in it. I can also hear "sloshing" / "chugging" in the heater as if water is pushing around but not at full stream (note the heater is off). I'm trying to figure out if this is normal, or if this is considered losing prime? Here is a video of each. Thanks all

Video 1 at 1725rpm :
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Video 2 at almost full RPM :
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I had a pool contractor install a new concrete sports pool with a Paramount floor cleaning system. When reading the Paramount manuals, it says to maintain a minimum of 22 psi at the valve. We are only getting 10-15 psi. I then looked at the equipment room (pictures are attached) and noticed the spaghetti layout, and instead of using elbows, the contractor deadheads into tees, routing back and forth, etc. He told me that's how they "always" do their pools so that you can drain the system in the winter. I'm not buying it. From your experience, is this best practice for a pool equipment, piping, etc. layout? Just by looking at it, I could reduce the number of fittings by moving things around and using some thought in the layout. Am I missing something here? I need another 10-15 psi at the Paramount valves too.

I had a new liner installed two years ago and just this year I I noticed some rust in the skimmer...didn't think too much about it till now that I am getting ready to close the pool. I pool the trim plate off and while none of the stainless steel screws seem to be rusted, if I run my finger along the inside of the door there is rust and black particles...I also noticed that you can see the liner from behind the skimmer plate.

I'm worried that water is getting between the skimmer and the metal sides of the pool and rusting. Should they have trimmed the liner more before putting the skimmer in? I also noticed a small rust stain next to one of the pool lights as well....

I was intending to close the pool tomorrow, but I really don't want to leave it all winter like this. I usually don't drain the water below the skimmers, I just use Gizmos.

Any ideas here? I'm thinking I need to lower the water, remove the skimmer cover and see what going on, just not sure what to look for....not sure how it should be installed. Pictures attached....

Thanks

Every month I go to the local pool store to check their numbers with mine. Just on a curious level. Since March, my phosphate level has been rising. Currently, it is around 530, from 200 in March, per the pool store. I currently use the K-2006 test kit and there is no testing for phosphate. Is there a need to buy a phosphate test kit yet and any recommendations? I read online that you don't really need to worry about phosphates level until it is over 1000.
The pool is only 6,000 gallons and has an automatic cover and the water is covered 20 out of 24 hrs per day. Some days we don't even use the pool. My FC is always at the required recommendation number per pool math. Currently, it's at 8 with CYA at 50. CC is always perfect. I tend to have the FC at the high end per Pool Math. Since the pool is small adding liquid chlorine is not an issue. My water is super clear and I'm pretty anal about brushing at about 2-3 times per year.

I did some reading online at TFP and there were some recommendations for phosphate remover. Do I wait until fall/winter and if its close to 1000 then go ahead and use a phosphate remover?

Thanks,

Hi There,
First time post here. We just got our pool started up last month and unfortunately our start up guy was less than professional. My weekly service guy has been great, but I always hesitate taking one man's opinion as gospel. I'm simply not educated enough yet to know if I'm tracking correctly.
Currently, I believe I have my EasyTouch 8 scheduled via the ScreenLogic Config (on my phone, screenshot attached), to run at 1250rpm from 1pm-10pm, 3000rpm from 10pm-4am, and 2200rpm from 4am-1pm. My pool guy wants me to run it at 2200rpm when I'm not at 3,000rpm, but I see on here that people are running their Pentair Intellipro VSF at 1,000rpm so that seems excessive to me. The SWG was installed last week after our 30 day curing period of our plaster. We do have an auto pool cover but it's currently too hot here in Las Vegas to keep the pool cover on. The water is 90 degrees currently. My questions are as follows:
1. Is this an appropriate schedule/rpm for my set up?
2. Do I need to be running the pumps 24/7?
3. When I run the pumps at low RPMs, the GPM on the Screenlogic app doesn't register anything, is this normal?

I think that's all for now. I got recommended to TFP from a co-worker and I'm blown away by how helpful it is so far!
Thanks so much.

My Pentair system and pool were installed a few years ago with a buried ethernet cable that worked great but got damaged from the elements during this past winter and now my system won't connect. I've tested the cable with an ethernet tester and it's definitely busted. Instead of digging up the yard to run a new cable, I'm looking into getting the wifi kit (523557) but I'm having a hard time finding anyone who actually sells it.

Anyone have any luck finding the kit online? I'm not seeing it at any of the usual pool suppliers and my local place doesn't have it in stock and might be a very long wait.

How often should the water be changed in an indoor bromine pool that gets minimal to moderate use.... every couple years? When starting with a fresh fill would you SLAM a bromine pool with liquid chlorine the same way you would SLAM a chlorine pool?

I have what is hopefully an easy question.
When our pool equipment was first set up, our filter pump and floor system were programmed and were set for daily scheduled operation.
Both of these systems work in freeze protection.
I deleted the floor system from the daily operation schedule.
Recently, I added it back via the app. My question is...
do I have to re-program everything in order for the floor system to operate properly? Or is just adding it back to the main screen enough for operation ? I'm trying to figure out if it's a valve issue, or a programming issue.
Anyone ? *fingers crossed*

Hi!
We will be remodeling our pool in the next few months, and I’m trying to find pictures of Primera Stone Riviera Coast, or the color Azul Treasure. I’ve spent days on the internet, and the pictures are very limited. I was wondering if anyone here has used these colors and if you could post a picture.
Picking the tile was easy in comparison. Our family and friends are split down the middle as to which one.
Any advise would be appreciated
Attached pictures of the hot mess we have with the samples under water.

Hello,

This is for a AquaRite PCB Board. I was using my multimeter to try to figure out where pins 3 and 4 from the RJ11 Flow Switch Connector go once they leave the RJ11 Flow Switch Connector. The flathead screwdriver test failed, I soldered all six pins of the RJ11 Flow Switch Connector together, and I still don't get Generating except for a few moments, mostly the output is the Red No Flow. If I can trace where pins 3 and 4 go to on the board, I have a shot at fixing the board.

Thanks,
Brian

This is a cheat sheet I am working on for my wife and I to refer to. We are new pool owners, and in less than 30 days will convert to salt. As far as general thoughts on when to test, ideal targets, etc. what do you guys think of this? I can add or take away, change whatever. Just looking to make something that's a no frills, simple sheet for us to go by. I have found the amounts of information on the site to be overwhelming at times. I realize that the testing frequency is different for everyone, so these are just best guess. My wife wanted some basic information on there about each thing, so I gathered what I could and put what I felt would be useful. Some of it may just be flat out wrong, and if it is, please just let me know and I can change it to be correct. We really want to stay on top of the testing and care of our new pool. Also, note: We will be using a water softener on our fill water that comes into our system, so our frequency of testing CH may be different than some. Appreciate any information or suggestions!

Hi folks, I'm new to TFP and currently redoing my pool. Main changes are that I'm extending the steps and adding two benches in the deep end. This is what it looks like with the new steps in progress:



And here are the two corner benches:



I have a couple of questions:

1) The lines going down the wall due to the demolition of the plaster -- is this normal? Does it have to be smoothed out before applying the new surface?

2) Is it normal to use cinderblocks to "frame" steps/benches as is being done here? The empty space behind the steps is filled with debris -- old plaster that was chipped away, extra concrete from the demolition of the existing steps, etc. Want to understand if this will hold up over time.

This is my first time renovating a pool so want to make sure everything is going well...

Gunite was completed 4 days ago, noticed this exposed pipe near the spa when I was watering the pool.

Unsure about the whole process to be honest, so not sure how any of this is "supposed" to look. (pipes in the ground still exposed, some cracking in the gunite, etc.)

Is this normal and covered afterwards? Seems like an unusual spot for the pipe to be exposed like this.

Hi all. Anyone ever add Calcium and the test doesn't budge? I added 12 lbs of Calcium to my pool which according to pool math should raise it about 46. I did this at a 250 reading. I tested a few times after and it was 275 once only to read 250 again. I added another 12 lbs and it went up to 275 again...then back to testing at 250. What gives ? I ultimately want it above 350 where it should be according to pool school in plaster pools. Thx

Hi - I wanted to caulk around my vinyl steps where it meets the concrete. Just to avoid excess water and settling over time and to properly seal it. Would anyone have a recommendation on the best caulk option to use?

Thank you.

We have a 30 gallon acid feeder on a 20,000 gallon indoor pool. We are doing some modifications to our pool equipment and plan to use the acid feeder to feed both the indoor and outdoor pool. I have been adding 1 gallon of 31.45% MA to the 30 gallon tank and it lasts about 2 weeks before I need to refill. Obviously, we will go through the acid faster if it is also feeding the outdoor pool. What is the maximum concentration of acid that I could put in that 30 gallon acid feeder tank? Could I put 2 or 3 gallons of 31.45% MA in that 30 gallon tank? Any risk of damage to equipment by increasing the acid concentration?

I just added salt to my pool. In the past we had a salt that was little flat crystals that practically dissolved as soon as they hit the water. The Morton's pool salt that we got from Home Depot had very large crystals that sank to the bottom of the pool. In case I have to add some more, what's your best salt recommendation this year?

Just curious if anyone has a good theory on length of pole for cleaning attachments. im 16x35 with a full length bench. Im debating on a 12 foot and a 16 foot pole. I fear that the 16 is bigger than needed and may be a little heavy for my wife.

all input is greatly appreciated.

Was vacuuming to waste this morning after insane storms here in PA. Everything was working fine. Water was down to the height of the skimmers so I stopped to fill the pool. After the water height was good turned pump back on but it won’t prime. Checked everything I can think of: skimmer baskets clear, main drains don’t look blocked, pump basket is clear, o-rings have no damage, ran hoses directly in the skimmer lines, fished around the impeller but it seems to spin fine. It sucks the water from the pump basket fine but nothing from the pool. Anything I’m missing? I thought maybe a clog but it’s unlikely the main drain and both skimmer lines would all be clogged. Plus it was running perfectly fine this morning. I’m out of ideas.

I have a similar problem. Super high suction and flow on recirculate, almost nothing on filter. Used on filter only a few hours. Could it be a bad spider gasket?

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I’m not sure if this is the correct place. Moderators please move if it’s not. going to post my latest test results but I have two separate stains I would like advice on.

FC 4.
CC 0
PH 7.4
alkalinity 70
CH 180
CyA 30

The water is crystal clear. My problem is I have two different types and colors of stains.
1st one is reddish brown and is spreading to other parts of pool. I did the vitamin C test and it did not respond at all.
2nd spots were more black in nature and when I did the vitamin C test, they cleared right up. I also have a sort of brownish looking ring around the pool line. When I take crushed up vitamin C’s and rub it, it comes right off.

so I’m thinking for the second spots. I’m gonna do the AAA treatment. My question is what advice can you give me on the other spots that seem to be rapidly expanding. I can send you a picture of a couple of them if it would help.
thanks in advance. I don’t use well water and have never had problems with copper or iron in my pool. The yard guy did fertilize about two months ago so there could be some fertilizer that got in the pool. I’ll

As stated above. My chlorsync cs30 has 4 green dashes on the display. My app says unit is unresponsive. The diagnostic chart says to check the wire going into unit. I checked all the wires and all seems ok. It does not have another option to check. What else could it be?

My pool plaster, tile and coping was redone in 2008

I converted my pool to salt in 2015

Now some of my coping near the skimmers, jets and overflow are pitting (as seen in the photo below)

It is both horizontal and vertical surfaces.

Is there any good solution that will not look like a repair has been done? I am concerned if I use Quikrete patch or sanded grout the colors wont match or blend well and the coping will look spotty like a cheetah (all the repairs will be spots).
While I am no expert, I feel like my plaster, tile and decking should last another 3-5 years (maybe longer) so I don't want the situation to deteriorate and this becomes the weakest link in needing to redo my pool.

I've also read about using a sealer but people complain it makes things slippery and gives things a 'wet' appearance - so if I did this, I'd need to do all the coping, right?

Why is this happening (the pitting)? Am I doing something wrong?

Appreciate any thoughts or advice

My TA is 30
pH is less than 7. Had to add 6 drops of base to get to 7.4 (don’t have my Taylor booklet to figure out how much base to add).

Question re TA
Can I use sodium bicarbonate? It’s not on pool math. So not sure how much. There are directions on the bottle.

I’ll recheck pH after ta is up then add sodium carbonate

These are what I have so wanted to use them if ok.

Thanks

My pool has probably pounds of dead algae on the bottom of it. I need to remove it but cant figure out how. It's in ground and doesn't have a drain. I attempted to vacuum out the algae and water through my backwasher but found there was air getting through so the pressure wasn't very high, and I couldn't do it for more than a few minutes without starting to flood my neighbors yard. The algae is also too fine to go through my sand filter or my robot vacuum.

Any advice would be appreciated.

I'm a DIYer in-ground pool/spa guy in Goodyear, Arizona. And, thanks in advance for reading my exhaustive explanation of my problem. I've built with CMUs with #4 and #5 rebar and all fully filled cells. Built on rebar reinforced slabs (12" thick for pool, 20" thick for spa). Slabs have a 20 mil pvc sheet underneath and Henry's dampproofing on outside edges of slabs and outside of CMU walls. All this was prescribed by a structural engineer in the planning stage. Interior walls were then covered with about 1/2 inch of stucco, then a thin coat (1/8" including a dashed texture) of thinset mortar to finish. Everything is cured out (more than 90 days), but I'm still getting really high moisture readings (30% and more, measured with a Wagner L606). My preferred waterproofing membrane is one with elasticity vs a cementitous membrane. I've attempted to use SEMCO, but have had some problems with it fully curing because of the moisture content (they wanted it to be about 3%). In addition, because the initial application of the liquid membrane was done on a substrate with too high a temp (not cautioned in anyway by SEMCO unfortunately), the membrane has a lowered adhesion to my substrate. I'm now faced with peeling off the membrane and going at it again. Per SEMCO's recommendation, because of the high moisture content readings, I also initially applied their own brand of penetrating sealer (on their recommendation) before applying the initial coating of liquid membrane. They are recommending I apply MORE coats of penetrating sealer (after removing the current liquid membrane) then reapplying their liquid membrane again. I'm a bit confused by that since it didn't seem to help the first time... but this area is a bit beyond my pay grade. After my waterproofing membrane, I plan to cover about 80% of the membrane with recycled glass tiles and grout. Can readers please weigh in on the moisture content issue and any recommendations? I'm a little concerned about 'trapping' so much moisture inside the slab/walls if I have waterproof membranes on both sides. I know that a cementitious product (like Laticrete Hydroban) might be a more suitable membrane since it would work with the underlying moisture to cure... but alas... it doesn't have any elasticity factor (which I'm thinking would be good for any future movement/cracking that might occur in the whole structure -- the SEMCO has a 1300% elasticity). Thanks for any wisdom you can share.

My name is Christian..I'm in Denver Colorado, I own my own business repairing hot tubs, love everything about hot tubs, and most importantly loved keeping my customers happy

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Not sure why but my CYA level is at 170 right now. I have not added chlorine to my pool for 3 weeks and the water is still crystal clear. Pool uncovered 24/7 and chlorine level drop only by 1.0ppm . So far I'm not complaining.