So my water is crystal clear but the robot filters show some green. Am I paranoid ?

Fc 12
Cya 80
Ph 7.8
TA 110
Calcium 200

I did slam the pool about 10 days ago bc I saw dust.

Water is clear and FC is not dropping more that I can catch on a test.

Any I ok or is the residue in the robot filters a warning ?

Pic show one cleaned and one dirty filter just out of robot doing longest tour.

More unprecedented-ness cuz evidentally we haven't seen enough.

Perhaps your pool volume is off, you purchased less potent calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate.

Hi there!
I just bought this vacuum for my 12 x 24 Intex above ground pool. I don't know why it is not picking up leaves and barely picking up other debris. When the brushes were on, it did pick up dusty debris but no leaves. Took off brushes and then it picks up a few leaves but misses the vast majority. Also, when I take the vacuum out of the pool, a bunch of the little bit of debris it picked up comes spilling out. Left it going all night long to no avail! Also, have not put comb-looking things on because figured would inhibit leaf pick up! Just spent $199 on this thing and it got good reviews, so figure I'm just missing something! Help please! Thanks!

I am considering replacing my Intex 14X42 Ultra Frame pool because the liner is faded, and I can no longer replace just the liner because it was discontinued. I was contemplating getting another Intex, but I was considering the Bestway Power Steel series. Has anyone done a skimmer hack and inlet/outlet hacks on these pools? And is it similar to doing it on the Intex?

Aqua logic SWG buttons on control panel do not work. Pool running and LCD with appropriate readings, but buttons will not turn off. on or scroll thru menus. Did have recent storm with flickering of electricity.

I've been trying to find some information about the actual function of the second intake outside of supplying enough water flow to the pump. Have seen plenty of threads that say it's just for safety purposes, or else talk about plugging up the second intake to make the skimmer work.

I'm in the position now where my skimmer doesn't work well without the flow reducer on the other intake. Ideally both would work with neither restricted but it doesn't seem to be the case so I leave the flow reducer off since the pool is covered most days and skimming is not effective with it on, with the hope that more of the sub-surface stuff is getting filtered by the other intake. I don't have any sense of whether or not this is true. I don't have any flow/pressure issues to the pump whether one intake is restricted or not.

So my question is, should I continue to do this or should I not bother and let the skimmer do its thing whether covered up or not? Will the skimmer's submerged basket still get the sub-surface stuff? Or do neither really accomplish this and I just need to focus on vacuuming?

Hi all, I’m joining the site because I need to learn how to take care of the pool myself and you all have a ton of resources that are so useful.

Hi,
We are having our fiberglass pool resurfaced currently, and it makes sense to replace our pool light whilst we are at is, as it's clearly pretty old.

The light is a SP540 300w and I know those aren't sold anymore as any new light has to be LED.

I called Hayward support and they weren't able to tell me because their systems don't have information on an SP607 anymore.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thank you!!!

Dan

Figure I would post this here. In the pool math app under effects of adding it can estimate the amount of chlorine generated by knowing your salt cell and gallons in your pool along with adding your run time. Now my question is why doesn’t it ask for your pump speed? Wouldn’t you generate more chlorine if you’re running 50gpm for 24 hours vs 20 gpm. Just going down a rabbit hole.

I downloaded the Pool Math app. There is option to upload which chemical was added. I added Phosphate remover chemical today, but I dont see that in the list. Who can add that in the list?

I have always heard that the pH-level is important for the chlorine to work best. Here at TFP I also hear that the pH should be lowered before slamming, in order to give the chlorine the best environment.
But then someone showed me this article that says, than when cya is present the pH can be ignored.
Is that correct?

So I have 2 separate schedules for my pool pump: one during weekdays that doesn’t run as long, and one that runs on the weekends for a longer duration since that’s when we normally do evening swimming. The problem is, my weekend schedule never kicks on, it just runs my weekday schedule even though the EasyTouch panel says it’s Saturday.

I’ve read about the 12 schedule limit for EasyTouch, and how egg timers also count against this hard limit. I don’t need egg timers for some stuff, like the lights, so do I set them to the 12-hour default, or “do not stop” in order for them to not count toward the 12? Are all those unused feature 12h egg timers counting against my limit?

Hi everyone. So am new ABG pool owner, less than 12 hours filled. I made the mistake of backwashing into my pool with the outlet valves shutoff causing dirt (DE I think you call it) to backflow into pool. I didn't realize at the time that my drain hose wasn't flowing water out during Backwash. In fact I checked the eyeglass for debris and found none following the cycle. In fact, pressure was also good but s/have been yellow during Backwashing now that I think about it. So when I returned to filter (following rinse) nothing happened. It was then I realized all valves were closed. Well you guessed it, when I opened the valves, I saw about 30 seconds worth of dirt fill the pool. I went ahead and left the pump in "FP" for the full 24 hour cycle to finish as I had just added sand following fill.

My question is two fold. Do I turn off the pump and wait for Dirt to settle for vacuuming OR should I let the 24 hour cycle finish hoping the water will clear then repeat the cycle until clear? Water does appear a little clearer following 12 hour run and I've been brushing to loosen any dirt and dissolve any salt below but I don't see the bottom yet. Water is cloudy but doesn't really look dirty. Its almost milky white (cloudy). I do NOT want to turn on the SWG until it clear OR is this a mistake? I'm not really sure the SWG should run until the water is clear. Need some advice.

Salt : 3000PPM
Ph : 7.8
FC : 0

Sorry for my rudimentary knowledge and terminology. Still learning via TFP

The pool company is about to began excavation on our first pool. We are total noobs, and I'm hoping to get some help.
We are having a rectangular 32' x 15' pool built with a depth of 3' 6" x 5' x 6'. We are going with a saltwater system,
and purchased as much hand holding equipment that we could since we are new borns!

Hi all

Chris

Hi,

When filter is turned on.
I see water leaking from the circled pipe going upward and under the pump.
Please let me know if this is something I can fix or I would have to hire someone.

Your response is greatly appreciated. Thank you

I installed one of these over the weekend and currently have it plugged into a 110V outlet. I want to hardwire it and plan to connect it to the breaker at the top (filter pump) and the ground to the ground bar at the bottom....at least I assume it's the ground bar as there's only green wires connected to it. I believe this will give it 240V continuously but the flow switch will turn it off when the pump is not running.
My pool guy suggested connecting it to the load side on the relay so that it'll be powered only when the pump is running.

Does anyone have any thoughts/comments on which option would be preferred and why?

Moved from here.

Hi,
I'm in S Florida near FTL and had my inground pool remodeled in 2021. We converted to a salt system and a Blue Essence was installed with a T-5 cell. The default salinity reading is usually showing as close to 3200 ppm as I can possibly keep it at but with this heat wave and daily 1-2 inches of rain it fluctuates, and then I adjust. Last week we got 4 inches in 2 days and my default reading was showing 2700 ppm. After a couple days some evaporated and I added 1 bag of salt to bring it up to 3000. The next day and since, my default reads "3.00". Somehow now there is a decimal point and a zero missing!. My local Leslie's tested the water today and they say it's at 3100 ppm so I cannot figure out why my PPMs now include a decimal point. I reset the unit and all other readings are displaying normal. I can't find any reference to this on Hayward's troubleshooting tips.
The only thing I can think of is due to the heat my water temp is in the 90's and I read that that can cause malfunctioning but my pool is in operation from 6am - noon so water should be cooler when it cycles on.

Hello,

I have old Polaris 280 sweep (dont know how old is it). I bought the house couple years ago and it came with it.
In Nov min 2023, I changed this kit - Amazon.com
Now, I see a wheel rubber coming off every week once. Is there any way I can fix it?

Thanks!

Hello, I’ve read every single thread on the white flakes. We have a new plaster swg pool built august 2022.

We had it closed for the winter, with only the spa open, converted to bromine.

In April, we had it professionally opened and the salt cell turned on for the first time.

White flakes started arriving in May. Now they are so plentiful that it’s alarming every time we open the cover. They settle around the bubblers on the sun deck and outside of the returns. The spa is especially bad. There are literally thick piles of it. Today I got into the water with the manual vacuum hose and got it all up. I immediately backwashed and when I turned the pump back on the flakes had shot out the return lines and the sun ledge drains??? undoing 2 hours of work.

We test every other day.
Chlorine is 2-4
PH is 7.4
TA is 100 (Why do most resources say ideal range is 80 - 120, except for TFP?) is 100 high?
Calcium is 260
CYA I can’t figure out because the solution isn’t cloudy and the dot never disappears even when filled to the top.

Please help- I am at my wits end with this. The pool builders were here yesterday fixing stuff and they literally could not figure it out. That didn’t help.

Hi,

Long time reader of this site, but first post.. I have a Jandy “stealth” pump that has a Jandy branded 2.7 thp VSP motor attached. The pump motor casing has a lot of rust and is now making a noise, so I assume I’ll be looking at a replacement motor at least. I do not see any 2.7 thp VSP pumps on the market, other than the not in stock ECM27SQU.

From what I have read here, in general it is best to replace with the same or higher rated motor, so I imagine the century EVO 2.25 thp is out.

Is my only replacement option a new jandy epump 2.7? VSSHP270DV2A

BTW I have Jandy iAquaLink 2.0 automation

We just had our heater and pump timers installed and rhe heater timer is already screwed up, it won't hold the correct time. We also noticed the pump timer kept shutting off ot not working. I added CYA to my pool yesterday and used the manual override to make sure the pump ran for 24 hours. I woke up this morning and the pump is off, the manual override switch is in the off position. Does anyone have any ideas?

Hello to All,

I use the puck feeder only to add CYA as needed and a break from periodically pour CL.

I called CMP technical support but they didn’t even know their product. The dial that determines the flow rate (CW fully open, CCW, Closed) is dripping when it’s moved CW to dispense. If i shut it, CCW, dripping stops.

Inside the Dial Assembly, there’s an inner part and an o-ring, I’ve enclosed the link to my product and part # 11 is what i need.

I’ve enclosed 4 picks & link
1- overall pick of puck feeder w dial circled
2-dial area w arrow to leak
3-my dial online w no front tab to remove screw
4-dial w tab to remove screw to take off dial

My question is, how do I remove the dial so i can access o-ring to size up and replace?

Thank you very much
tstex

Pump has been working fine and only a couple of years old, but this evening I went swimming and noticed it was not on despite the timer settings. I touched it and it was very hot. Flipping the power switch did nothing. I tried to cool the pump down by pouring some water on it and heard a click (thermal disconnect perhaps?). After that turning it on results in a humming sound and nothing else.

It's likely still quite hot inside (I only cooled down the external chassis/cover). Is the pump toast? Pump mesh filter window is flooded so I don't think it's a lack of water issue. If it does power on once cool, what are my options? Do I install some sort of heat sink on it or set the timer to only run it at night? Can the thermal disconnect be modified to shut off at lower temps?

Hey everyone. Just joining. Been a pool owner for a few years and getting better at it all the time, but still struggle with the tough stuff!!

Really appreciate the community!

Max

Hello,

I just received my replacement robotic cleaner from Polaris. My old one (VRX iQ+) was a year old and after 7 months after purchase it got the ERR10 code. After back and forth with replacing the motor and cable, my old unit has same error code.

So Polaris sent me a whole new unit and to send the old one back. They sent me the Alpha iQ+ since they didn't have my model in stock.

As soon as I set it up, it runs for about half hour and gives me the same err10 code as old one. I tried 3 different outdoor gfi plugs going to fuse panel, no extension cords, with the same issue. I am not sure what to do next and just give up on Polaris.

I believe my pool equipment is on the same wire that powers the pump and pool stuff as well as 2 of the 3 outlets I used. The only other outlet I have is in garage and with extension cord it wont reach to pool and clean it.

the pool pump was on so I am wondering if my pool equipment is on that it may being doing something to cause an error in the robot cleaner. I will have to try later when the pool is not running.

Anyone else have any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Hello!

Yesterday morning I was checking the pool and noticed the water level was low. I turned off the pump and added water. I noticed some water around the equipment but thought it was likely the filter because a few days before the drain plug popped out and I thought it was just not secure. After I added the water, I turned the pump back on and watched the filter; there was no water coming from the filter. Then I realized water was coming up in the grass right by the equipment. I turned the pump back off. There is no water loss if the pump is off.

We just bought this house a couple of years ago; I have no idea where the plumbing lines run. What are my next steps? Find a leak detection company? Can someone that has experience with this give me some idea of what to expect?

Thanks!

Going a a Traditional 33x15 rectangular pool, 3-6’, no spa. Travertine deck, pebblesheen, Mediterranean with glass. Large baja step 7’ @ 18”. They do Hayward equipment, lots of PB do in AZ I found out. 2.7hp VS pump, 525 cartridge filter, automation, SWG for up to 40k gallons, AquaCA SQ166 HeatPump/chiller. Will post rendering in a couple days. doing a 12ft long water wall 18” tall with 2 24” sheer decent water features, one each end of the wall will be a 24x24x24 column with cap and stacked ledger stone.

Same thing with this build, you Find so much good and bad with PBs it’s hard to determine who is the better option. Looking like builds are going 6-9 months, here in AZ. It’s been a hot July.

Miserable story - I hired a local "pool contractor" to do the pool floor. I usually do pretty much everything myself but didn't want the hassle. Big mistake! The "pool contractor" didn't take a single measurement, didn't run a single string line, and royally f'ed up just about everything. It's a 52" depth flat bottom pool with 42" polymer walls. The sides, per the provided specs, are 45 degrees from one foot out from the walls. He paid no mind to the specs and basically created a bathtub - with sloping coves instead of a sharp 45 degrees. At one foot out, the average depth (it wasn't at all consistent) was 47". Thankfully, he ran out of grout without finishing most of the floor. Then he wanted to charge me double because he needs more grout since it's a "freaking massive" pool! After realizing how messed up it was, I told him to either fix it or get lost. He choose the latter. So I ended up spending the weekend with a jackhammer breaking up about 2' around the entire perimeter of the pool. Part of it were over 6" thick!

Now with that backstory out of the way, my question is this - is there any good reason why I can't (or shouldn't) finish the floor over a few days? Since I'm going to be a one-man show, I'm thinking I'd rather mix mortar on site as needed rather than bring in a truck and be under a ticking clock. Doing a section at a time is more palatable and realistic. Also thinking to do the entire floor flat first, then go back and add the cove. Thoughts and opinions welcome!

First year pool owner here and I need to decide between a solid cover and a mesh cover to close the pool this winter. I am going to have my pool company handle the closing and opening of the pool.

I was leaning toward a mesh cover because pumping water off a solid cover during the winter is a pain in the Rear. And if it snows I don’t know how I would be able to rake snow from the middle of a 20’ x 45’ pool. Also, we like the safety aspect of it as well.

But I have now become obsessed with water chemistry because of this site and I insist that my water is TFP clear.

I have heard that a mesh cover will allow water, sunlight, and perhaps small pieces of organic debris to seep into the pool. I can get a rugged mesh cover which will let in less sunlight and filter the organic particles even finer. It is a little more expensive obviously. Both covers are made by Meyco.

Soooo, is my pool going to be green when it’s opened in the spring if I get a mesh cover? Do I have to keep testing the water over the winter? How do I get water to test if there is a cover on the pool? How do I put in chemicals? Do I leave my SWG on over the winter?

I was pretty confident going for the mesh cover but now I am not so sure, that’s why I’m asking the TFP gods. Thanks in advance.