Hi! Bought a house in April with a salt water pool. Had two different companies taking care of it. I didn’t love how they were taking care of it. I’ve decided to take care of it on my own. I’ve been doing it for about a month now. I’ve been using the Taylor test kit and pool math. We’ve had a bunch of rain so things are a little diluted. Just looking for some advice on balancing. I took a sample to Leslie’s to compare with my own.

SWG with pebble sheen

Fc 4.61
Tc 4.61
Ph 8.1
Calcium 216
Cya 33
Ta 55
Salt 3100

Thanks.

Hi All!

I recently had to repair a crack in my thermoplastic steps and I bought a repair kit from Pool Step Specialists. I realized part way through that I was going to need to repair more than the one tread, and Steve graciously sent me an extra kit which ended up being overkill. Ultimately, I have an extra thermoplastic step repair kit that I do not need and I want to give it to anyone in the community who could use it (just cover shipping if you don't mind!). The only thing I used out of the kit are the foam rollers, which I'm sure can be had cheap at most hardware stores. I'm happy to send some photos of the kit if anyone is interested in it. I really appreciate the help I've received from both this community, and the folks at Pool Step Specialists, and just wanted to pass it along. They said the Step Gel (I believe some sort of epoxy gel coat) only has a 6mo or so shelf life, so I figured it might as well not go to waste with me. Feel free to message me and/or reply in the thread.

I ended up going a bit (ok, a lot) beyond their process and busted out the sinking pad behind the steps, backfilled with compacted crushed limestone, and also poured concrete under the surface of each tread. They recommend just cutting holes in the steps and reinforcing them from above, then patching the holes. You can see, I still had to do that on the second tread from the bottom because I couldn't quite get concrete to flow under there and they still had some flex in them. After I reinforced the steps, I repoured the pad behind the steps. Finally, I did the fiberglass repair and coated the treads of the steps using the kit. The steps now feel rock solid...because, well, they are 50% concrete. Here are a few pics of the process!

Hope this was interesting to someone, and that maybe there's another person with cracked thermoplastic steps out there in need of help!

Hi All,
I am a very new pool owner. Plaster/fill day was 2 weeks ago. I bought a TF-Pro test kit and have been testing a lot. My pool builder wants us to have water tested at a pool store weekly, I think mostly as a paper trail. Today I took water off to be tested at un-named pool store and the results surprised me. Specifically PH seems pretty different to me. I show ph at 7.2 (double checked when I got home) and pool store shows 7.5. I guess a few 10ths isn’t a lot but pool builder wants us to keep the water at 7. Anyhow really just wondering how accurate the test kit Vs pool store should be.

Hi- I just joined as although I maintained my softtub well in England where there was a high TDS and ph ranging from 7-8,
I am having a helluva time getting it right in Scotland where the ph is a bit higher but there os no calcium hardness to speak of - tds less than 100 (EC 0.1)
I want to get a decent test kit as the strips drive me mad.
Is my best option to buy the ft100 from the usa or is y something equivalent in the UK?
Many thanks
Tania

Hi everyone,

I awoke this morning to discover that the water level was low (about 1” below tile). I immediately began adding water (the pump was not yet on). I set the water hose on a 1 hr timer and shuffled around the house. When I circled back around to check the pool, the water level was 4” lower.

Let me clarify, when I first began adding water, the pool was already about 4” too low. While the water hose was running, the water level still dropped faster than it could be added. There is no surface water visible around the pump, the filter or the heater/cooler. With no visible cracks and applying deductive reasoning, I feel like this is the main drain. Anyone?

I believe I’m getting algae in the pool. This is because I have black dots on the steps . When I rub them they turn greenish. And a hint of green algae on the downslope of the liner above the skimmer . Otherwise the water is crystal clear. See attached pictures of the two algae areas mentioned above.

my water test results have been right on target for a long period of time. I keep my fc at the high end of the target range. Please see my pool math test results- I post nearly every day.

I am baffled as to why I am getting algae. I will do an oclt test tonight. My cya has crept up to 90. So if I have to SLAM I need to lower my CYA ALOT which means I have to replace 40 to 50% of my water.

Any suggestions? And any ideas as to why I have developed algae with my fc staying in the 9.0 to 12.0 range for weeks?

Has anyone installed a small power center for a couple breakers in their intellicenter lite? We are installing a pergola near the pool and would need room for possibly two breakers. I would just like to utilize the box existing instead of adding more “junk”

I recently purchased a TF-100 to replace my Taylor kit and update reagents as some were aging. With the kit I also purchased the case and a pack of standard samplers for validation purposes.

When testing TA using the standard solution, the TF-100 was reading TA at 80 instead of 100. I was doing 25ml of the standard in the graduated cylinder while using the speed stir, 2 drops R-0007, 5 drops R-0008, and then counted 8 drops before the color changed from green to a bright red. The first time I thought I messed something up, which is why I ran it again and was surprised to see the same result. I didn’t have enough for a 3rd 25ml test, so I used the 10ml and used my Taylor TA reagents instead (expiration 7/24 and 11/24). It read the 10ml as 100ppm, as I’d expect.

When testing my pool water, I notice the same level of inconsistency, the TF-100 gives me a TA of 60 and the Taylor 70.

Has anyone experienced this before? Makes me wonder if I made a mistake switching to the TF-100 kit.

Hello, first want to say how helpful this site has been. I inherited a pool a few years ago and over the past few months have taken over caring for from a local maintenance company and it has been crystal clear the whole time. My pool sits in the sun most of the day and I am going through quite a bit of chlorine in the summer and am interested in getting a SWG installed and had a few questions.

I already have Omnilogic automation so does that mean I would only have to purchase the cell below (not the one that comes with the separate control box).


Would I also need to purchase the hayward flow switch? I am having trouble finding that online, would anyone be able to point me in the right direction on where to purchase it?

Finally, in the attached pics where would be the best place to install it? Do you think it would require additional plumbing?

Thank you

I’m working on an old comfort zone heater. It’s 355,000 BTU per the label, but it’s old and very badly disintegrated. I have included pictures I kept it working for my cousin up to this season where it’s been on and off. They had a partial meltdown of the valve and thermostat plastic from roll out disassembled and clean the heat exchanger. It was set it up with stop the rollout after changing to a Robertshaw gas valve I found online that looked very similar to it, but was half inch instead of three-quarter inch. It worked on and off this season, sometimes needing to be tapped stopped working completely and I found that the thermal pile was completely disintegrated where the wires were basically connecting to it replaced the whole unit for pilot, light and new thermal pile. On occasion pilot light still turns off despite flame hitting thermal pile. Guess well still needs to be tapped to usually get it to start. I’ve been looking for the right gas valve to get, but cannot find. The heater is very old. is it OK to replace it with any Hayward millivolt natural gas valve? I found a Hayward one that says 150,000 200,000 300,000 400,000 BTUs, or are valves very specific? I’ve included some pictures if anyone can help me get the right part.

I'm 100% sure I have mustard algae in the pool. I can clear it out, but it comes right back within a day or two. I know I need to SLAM the pool, and I read the article about treating the algae, but I had some other questions.

1. Once I get the pool up to the MA/SLAM shock level and clear it out, I know I need to brush everything. However, there are lots of places that are just unreachable unless I get in the water. Is that shock level safe to get into?
2. Is it safe to run my robotic vacuum through the MA/SLAM shock level? I have little doubt that it could be one of sources where it starts again.
3. I have a solar cover, and from the other thread, it looks like maybe I just need to lay it out on my lawn upside down? If that is the case - how long does it need to sit out in the sun? From the cover's warranty, I'm not supposed to leave it out in the sun (UV damage). I don't want to screw up my cover, but killing the algae is more important.
4. Do I need to do anything about my sand filter? or will the slam in and of itself be enough to "clean it out"
5. If the algae isn't the source of my constantly high drain on chlorine - what level should I maintain to keep it "normal"?

Thanks again as always

David F.

North Alabama resident. Wife has a 30"round above ground salt pool since about 2009. She cleans it while I fix/repair it. Replaced the pump twice and the circuit board twice, and the salt cell once. Live out in the county and every few years we have a lot of storms, power outages, and brownouts and they take their toll on the pool components. This is the year for storms.

Hi. I'm new here. My husband and I are looking to renovate the pool in the home we bought a couple of years ago. It is a whole new game with gunite pools with pebble tec and stonescapes options for renovations. We previously lived in Virginia and had a 40K gallon vinyl liner pool. I feel like I am learning everything all over again! Lol -- Pam

If I leave the water undisturbed for 24 hours it is perfectly clear. Upon any movement in the water, a “cloud” appears. When I look into the water after starting to vacuum on waste, I can see millions of tiny particles that appear white in the water. I have vacuumed on waste several times and can not seem to clear my pool of this “cloud”. I took water to pool store and they said my numbers were fine. Included pic of what was pulled into vacuum filter. Hayward Sand filter. Cincinnati OH, partial shade yard, never has happened before in 4 years. HELP!

I used to have a Syberian Husky that would get "blown out" every so often using a high velocity dog dryer. Has anyone ever used one of these to blow out their pipes/lines? My concern is actually that it may be too strong. This is what I have:

(I've never closed my own pool and don't plan to this year, but I was wondering for the future)

We had a wicked, but brief, storm blow through yesterday leaving a bunch of vegetation in the pool. I didn't realize the bulk of it was pine debris, only saw the leaves and branchlets. The good news is the Evo 614 IQ does fairly well with leaves. The bad news is Johnny ate a whole bunch of pine debris and now all the screens in his filter are coated in pine pitch. For the dog, I use peanut butter (he had a fair bit today, as well.) For us I use either canola oil or butter. For tools, generally use lighter fluid. I'm at a loss for what to use on the filter. Thinking the canola oil then possibly soaking it in dish soap followed by a good rinse?

Thoughts?

We purchased an Intex 18' x 48" easy set pool 2 years ago to see if we were even pool people prior to spending a larger amount of money on one. We quickly found it that we LOVE the pool, so I told my wife that once this one wears out we will replace it with something nicer. I'll attach a picture of an easy set pool in case whoever reads this is not familiar with that style. Here it is 2 years later and its still going strong. I did upgrade to a sand filter which made all the difference in the world. My only problem is finding a good winter cover for it. I know you are supposed to take it down in the winter but we don't and honestly the quicker it wears out the quicker we get something bigger. The cover that came with the pool that has the draw string is worthless. It blows off in hours every time. We have found this one on Amazon. (See Pictures) that has a cable and you tighten it with a buckle but even that will blow off in heavy winds. Has anyone found a good winter cover for the easy set pool that will fit snug under the air ring and not blow off????

My normal SOP is to drag the solar cover to the driveway hose it down and attempt to get it off the ground to dry off. Then fold it, without stepping on it, and dragging it to the garage. I have seen several posts where pool owners roll it up on the reel, cover it, and store it that way…which seems far easier for me. My only concern; is there a problem with mold since there would be water on the bubble side when it is being rolled up? TIA.

Due to how my pool steps are (elevated lip above concrete), when my auto cover is closed, it isn't flush against my concrete, which leaves a few inch gap (photos attached) causing mulch, pollen, etc. to occasionally blow into my pool. Does anyone have any creative suggestions for how I could lay something next to this opening to block it? I've considered pool noodles held in place with weights, but this wouldn't wear well through winter (I live in the Northeast). At a minimum I need a solution for the winter when the pool is closed, but wouldn't mind something easy enough to also use during summer/pool season. Thank you!

I am currently having a pool built in Florida and the contract states for sanitation a UV/Ozone/Mineral System. When I go out to the pool I see a basic chlorine setup and the pool company is stating: "the chlorinator is the UV/Mineral system. It’s just an industry term. UV=Ozone and Mineral=Chlorinator." The chlorinator is just a tablet holder so I am not sure what is "UV" about it. Am I missing something, or does this not make sense? Any insight is appreciated

26,000 Gal in ground chlorine pool with liner. Running a Hayward S244T Filter, 1hp pump, Hayward CL200 chlorinator.

Been dealing with high filter pressure for the last 2 weeks.

Filter & Recirculate - 22lbs
Backwash & Rinse - 11lbs

Pool jets are very weak - I can isolate each skimmer and have good pull individually but weak when both skimmers and main drain are open.

I have no air leaks on the intake or return lines, that I can tell.

I have a see through pump basket lid, and to the eye, the flow of water coming into it seems weaker than normal.

Actions I have already taken:
1. Changed my filter sand.
2. Installed a new pump.
3. Installed a new chlorinator (the old one looked corroded inside and didn’t seem to drain very well each time I opened it to refill), thought it might have been stopped up.

I am lost as to what the problem could be.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

POOL plumbing leaks. I'm tired of messing with it so it's time to redo it all. So I brought out a pool professional and got his advice and been googling ever since. He said dig up All my pipes as far as I can. That's done. He said buy a new filter. I had a 20 year old single cartridge Hayward that leaked. I got a new Hayward c4030 swim clear. I have a 1.5hp Hayward. I have a skimmer a pool drain and a sideboard that's been capped and the three returns on 1 1/2-in pipe. I was told to do it back as far as I can and change everything to 2-in. Returns and suction side. And open that cap side port up and use it for my robot vac that I currently hooked to my skimmer. I want to do it all myself so that I can afford to buy all the stuff I need. But I need some advice. The attached pic is what I got and I want to redo it all.

Hi folks.

Has anyone purchased a robot from Pelican Shops in New Jersey?
Looking to purchase my first robot to supplement my pressure side cleaner (Polaris 280).
Looking at an Active 20, which seems to be a very popular no-frills model which is exactly what I want.

My local pool store (Pinch A Penny) carries it for $1199, or I can get it from Pelican Shops for $1049 (maybe less with discounts):

[NOTE: Pelican Shops is a legit physical store in NJ who does Maytronics robot service. This is not a fly by night drop shipper as far as I can tell.]

Now, I know the big advantage of buying local is you can drop it off for service, but Pelican claims to have a one of a kind "exclusive" Dolphin warranty program (see image below) where they'll cover shipping for any warranty issues, which would ostensibly eliminate the 'local' advantage. I'll keep my Polaris 280 running, so it's not a big problem if I have to ship the robot off for a couple of weeks for a warranty claim.

My question is, does anyone have any experience with Pelican Shops and/or this specific warranty program?
Does that seem like an OK option or should I buy local even at additional cost?

I found the Pelican Shops site and the affiliated Dolphin Doctor YouTube channel have a lot of really useful info for comparing the different models and making a selection. They seem legit as far as I can tell, but would like some input.

Thanks!
Chris

Here's the Pelican exclusive warranty program info:

App is terrific
Main gap for me is that when I log test results there is no field for SWG%
As a salt water user, I know that finding the SWG chlorine production % level that yields your desired FC target is not easy
The app allows you to track FC levels over time and if you could look at those in combination with your SWG% it would really help to learn how your system behaves and how to best dial it in...
Adding that field would be real easy and add a ton of value
Thx in advance!

I tried a couple bags a couple months back since Walmart will deliver it with Walmart plus and had no issues.
So thought great lets get more since we had a ton of rain and mine is low again but this time I got stains

I have the inyo which looks a lot like the hayward so keep it close to 3000 to be safe.

I put it in my spa so its mixed and poured out the water fall and this morning I see stains, nothing major but enough to tell me it has some iron in it.

Hi all, getting an error message that there is an “invalid cell”. I took the SWG out and cleaned it, reinstalled and restarted the pump. Still getting the message. This is a new SWG just about 1 year. Do I need to “reset the cell” from the board after cleaning? Could that be why I’m getting the error? Appreciate your thoughts!

I had local Pool Company rep come over and give my prices on refinishing pool, and adding automation among other things.
I asked for Pentair but they seem to prefer Jandy.
He added a line number for
"Install Jandy RS-PS8 automation pack, 3 JVA valves, Conduit run for new spa light, and remove and replace J-box - $7945"

What your thought on this vs Pentair?

Thanks,

Jeff

Hi all,

I am looking for advice if it is feasible and safe to winterize the water fixture only that has it's separate pump to avoid running it when temperature drop below freezing in the winter. I live in Houston and temperature does not drop that often and I want to avoid winterizing the pool.

I attached picture of the plumbing. The water fixtures pump is the black one and it is constant speed. So can't adjust the speed for a low speed freeze protection mode

I have a Sta-Rite DES 60 filter. It works OK, but the filter plates need replacing. I can buy a set of plates, or I can replace the entire filter. I have some questions ...

1. Are there filters that would connect directly to the existing multi-port valve? (are the inlet/outlet ports in the same position)
2. Will today's filter last as long as the old Stainless Steel Sta-Rite?
3. What else do I need to be thinking about to decide between repair/replace.

Please share your wisdom ...

Hello,
I own a 22 year old Pentair Mini max 300 Plus pool heater. It recently stopped working and I'm in the trouble shooting phase. A recent suggestion was to inspect the pilot ignitor so I disassembled the pilot tube and ignitor from the main burner can and gas valve. Things began to fall apart due to heat/corrosion related age. I ordered a new pilot tube, #075192, and an ignitor, #471204, and now I'm wondering about its installation. The pilot tube did not come with compression fitting or ferrules. In my mind, it would appear that the tube would need a set of fittings and ferrules, at each end, along with those tube ends to be properly flared before reinstalling to both the gas valve and the main burner can mounting bracket. Can anyone comment on this repair? Thank you.