I'm trying to reconcile the various ideal CH ranges shown on TFP (plaster/LC)

Pool Math says 250<->350 target
Pool School blog says 350-550 ideal What Are My Ideal Pool Levels?
TFTestkit instructions show a different ideal range (Don't have instructions in front of me at the moment)

So the top of the Pool Math range stops at the bottom of the Pool School range. Perhaps Pool Math takes into account the levels of the other chemicals and adjusts suggested CH accordingly???

Normally I'd aim for the middle of the suggested range but that could be 300 or 450 depending on which suggestion I use.
Is water balancing so insensitive to CH that anywhere between 250 and 550 is equally ideal? With CH at 300, my CSI is always between +/-0.25 so maybe I shouldn't worry about adjusting CH.

I have a Blue Water salt cell, model BLW2T3HCS and I have no idea what the equivelant is T-3, T-5 etc., which doesnt allow me to properly program my hayward aquatrol

questions about salt water system

First time pool owner (installed myself from start to finish and turned out well with no major issues ) and want to make sure I don’t mess something up with winterizing

I want to walk myself thru this and make sure none of the experts here see anything incorrect. Have a 20x40 pool with salt chlorinator and de filter and heater/chiller. 2 aqua genie and one return. Apc365 auto cover. I don’t want to lower the water below the skimmer level bc of stretching and weight on the auto cover and don’t want the hassle in the spring with it not opening.

My plan:
1. Drain all the pumps, filter, heater
2. Install aqua genie winter covers and gizzmo and 90 degree pipe in one return so it’s above water level.
3. Blowout/suck out returns and suction sides and slide. Blowout heater
4. Rv antifreeze in gizzmo and aqua genie and in 90 degree return pipe and pump basket
5. Add winterizing chemicals with PH on the high side
6. Turn off all breakers to pool equipment

Planning to store all plugs in aqua genie basket so not to lose them.

Questions
1.Do most of you worry about taking the diving board off ?

2. How well does hooking up an air fitting to pump drain plug work for blowing out the system? Is it too much pressure on heater or anything to do it that way? I have Jandy valves on all lines so I can isolate each one to get good pressure.

3. Do you pour any rv antifreeze into pool equipment or valves other than pool pump?

Thanks for all the advice in advance

I'm thinking of switching from an Aquapure PDA to the iAqualink web-based control. I'm going to get a couple of estimates because I don't think I can do this myself ('cause I hate working with electrical stuff). What price range should I expect?

I noticed my pool this morning was starting turn green after being away on vacation. Checked the Hayward OmniLogic screen and my average salt reading is 65,486ppm and instant 65,475ppm (obviously both in accurate). My question is has anyone had this happen? If so did it indicate a bad cell or need recalibration? While I was on vacation the system did go haywire and started sending me a series of alerts (T-Cell sensor short, Relay K1 stuck open, K2 stuck open) then they automatically cleared. This happened several times. Any advice would be appreciated.

I am trying to connect Super pump VS 700 to the Omni PL. during setup nothing comes up on the HUA. Can anyone help?

I noticed yesterday that my ProGrid DE6020 filter has a crack in the wall of the upper filter body. The filter was there when my wife and I bought the house 9+ years ago. Should I consider buying a whole new filter based on the age of this one or just replace the upper body of the filter?

I think it's time to build some type of housing to protect the equipment from the Arizona sun.

I'm trying to replace a dying Hayward T-Cell 15. Looking for a T-Cell940 or just the 15.
I don't trust Amazon due to counterfeits, and all the other dealers I find on-line, get terrible ratings at ResellerRatings.com. Any recommendations ? Thanks

I'm looking at ordering a new cover for my hot tub and I notice that some of the vendors up here offer an alternative to the standard marine grade vinyl material that I'm used to using. One vendor calls it Weatherguard but the others I've looked at call it Atlantis and one vendor I've looked at doesn't offer it at all. From the pictures it looks like it's some sort of woven polyester or ripstop material, perhaps something similar to that Sunbrella fabric they use for making higher quality patio umbrellas. They, of course, charge extra for it over the standard marine grade vinyl but they say it's lighter weight, more durable, more resistant to UV, less prone to fading, yada, yada, yada than the standard vinyl material.

I'm wondering if any of you have tried out covers of this material and what your opinion of it is vs the tried and true marine grade vinyl. I'm especially interested to hear how well it works in the winter time. I'm wondering if maybe ice and snow sticks to it more and is harder to sweep/brush off vs vinyl since the fabric has a woven texture to it and isn't as smooth as vinyl.

Is it a gimmick or worth the cost of the upgrade from vinyl?

My service heater light is on and the guy who helps me with my pool came out and said my model is 1 year before they display error codes, he got Pentair on the phone and said its the control board.

So i ordered a new control board put it in and its doing the same thing

orange Heater light blinks 11-12 times then the serrtvice heater light turns red

Any ideas?

I've referred to this forum a few times over the last 9 years for help with my pool issues and this is the first time I was not able to find a prior thread with the same issue. I noticed this weekend that my Tristar VS 950 has a leak at the base of the outflow connection, but below the threads (please see attachments). I've had the pump a little over 4 years - just long enough to be out of warranty. Is this leak repairable?


To make matters worse, I felt a drip on my arm as I was taking the close-up picture of the pump and saw that my filter wall has a crack. I'll put that issue in a separate thread...

I'm not sure what the problem here is, but my main filter pump (Jandy 1.85 VS Pump) is unable to pull from my main drains. Theres a 3" line that runs from both main drains, and T's off into 2 pumps. 1 pump (a 2.7HP Waterways VS Pump) is ONLY fed by the main drain, and has zero issue (even at low RPMs) pulling from it.

On the filter pump, there is a 3 way valve that allows me to switch from skimmer, to main drain, or any combination of both. Anytime I introduce any amount of MD to the mix, it loses prime and is unable to pull water through the pipe. I've tried just about every combination of valving to get it to go, and nothing allows the pump to prime.

Anyone have any thoughts on what the issue may be?

Heres an older pic of the plumbing setup. The pump to the left is the waterfall pump, which is only plumbed to the 3" main drain line. The pump to the right, is the filter pump, which has a jandy 3 way valve split between main drain (left) and skimmer (right)

Can’t it buttons on front panel to respond; installer set to 100%

Some of the stitching on the perimeter is starting to fail so I want to restitch. Any suggestions on type of thread and stitch pattern to use?

Hello, I am getting rid of my pool maintenance guy because they really do not do much and the cost can’t be justified. I am looking for the best water testing kit for a Fiberglass pool spa combo that is saltwater. I am color blind and was hoping to find an app driven test kit that will tell me my readings and what needs to be added to keep it right. I looked at a few online like waterguru sense 2 and the one Lesley has that is the at home test kit. Is the TFPro salt really the best route? Any input would be appreciated

Is there such a thing as an "ideal" FC target? For my SWCG plaster pool with CYA at 70 I see various recommendations in TFP articles and posts. I see 7 5% of CYA, 11.5% of CYA, range of 5 to 10 and range of 4-6. TIA.

I seem to remember a thread in the past year that had pics of a Good brand and a Bad brand of CYA..

I think it was posted by one of our experts, but not sure.. It was about the CYA not lasting very long with what the OP was original using, and that after changing brands the problem when away.

In any case, I can't find it... most likely because of my inability to spell anything..

Anyone remember the thread I am looking for??

Thanks,

Jim R.

Hello TFP!

I’m helping a friend (and introducing him to the wonders of TFP). This is what he tells me.

He experiences a light green (or greenish) color on the steps. When he brushes it, it easily lifts up and disperses. He has a Polaris MAXX auto cleaner thats on 7hrs a day when the pump is in pool mode – I believe that will suck it up, but not clear it will pick up the green on its own without brushing. I’m also unclear on how long it takes for the green to return.

He uses Leslie’s to analyze his water (I know, I know I’m just stating the facts, only the facts ). I told him all the reasons not to trust those tests.

I’ve attached the Leslie’s full water report. Here a a few of their tests to compare to mine.
FC: 1.27
PH: 7.9
CH: 75
CYA: 102
Phosphates: 3191

Here is the results from the limited testing I did with my TFP test kit.
FC: 5.0
PH: 7.5
CH: 375
CYA: 90 (he needs to drain)

This may be a good time to mention that he uses puck floaters with a periodic topper of liquid chlorine (using Lowes pool chlorine). I explained that pucks are introducing additional CYA and why that is NOT a good thing.

Leslie’s sold him a product called "No Phosphates". I believe with the instructions to put 1/2 gallon in, run the pump consistently for 48hrs (with freshly cleaned filters), then repeat. Then return to Leslie's for a new water test.

My friend (or Leslie’s has his pool at 12,000 gallons. It’s about half the size of mine so I estimate it to be between 4 - 6k.

My council will be
1— Complete what he started with Leslie’s. Get new tests done at two different Leslie’s (they are very close to each other). This may (hopefully) show how different (and unreliable) their tests can an be.

2 — Do a full drain (our water temps are now in the low 70’s). Our outside temps will range between 76-100° DAY and 72-54° Evening over the next five days. I bet the drain/fill can be completed in under 8 hours.

3 — Check his water meter when filling to get a better estimate of the amount of water his pool holds.

4 — Start using a TF-100 test kit to test his water. Heck, I’ll come over twice a week and use mine (to get him started)


Thoughts?
— Best, York

My TFP research:
Phosphates - do I treat?

Can you turn on and off (operate) an Intellivalve 521485 for a water feature with the Easytouch 520547 handheld remote ??
Is it at all possible ?

See this thread. Was able to fix as per the last post in this thread. So thankful for this forum and YT! Probably saved me $500-$1000.

We have a Rheem 337A Low NOX Model pool heater. When it tries to start it shows a CFH (Call for heat) then shows a "SPR" (Spare Fault code indicator). I can't find what that means. I just wanted to check here before I order a replacement board. I had already fixed some cold solder joints in the past, so I was thinking of pulling the board and checking those again.

I picked up the ph meter that was recommended here because I'm a numbers guy. I dont do so well with the different shades on the ph tester.

My confusion is that it seems the ph meter is effected by light. the instructions say to swirl the meter in the water until it stabilizes. But it never does. every time you move it, it changes. I do the test in a tall clear shot glass. if I move my hands around the meter, the numbers change. If I let the meter just sit in the water, it will stabilize. but its still effected by shading it, or effecting the light around it in any way.

I picked up some standard solution to calibrate the meter, but with the behavior, its pretty confusing.

SO... What is the method to use to get a dependable reading from the meter.

CarolD said:

Interesting observation about Home Depot and LC storage. Every time I've gone to purchase, they have it stored inside...except once. It was back in April or so, and when I went to look for it, they had moved it outside. I complained to the store manager and they tried to tell me it was ok, because the area was shaded (still, outside in Houston with temps headed into the 90's by June). I left without purchasing. The next time I went to purchase, they had moved it back inside. Apparently I wasn't the only one to complain?

Click to expand...

I am on my second purchase of a 3 pack and I am not impressed so far. The HD I frequent is Pin Oak at 610 West and it is stored outdoors also, but in the shade. The first batch was a year old I learned later after I checked the Julian date. I was baffled why the FC never would hit my target from the calculator, well that was why. I just bought another batch two weeks ago that was only two months old, but my FC is not coming close to my target. I am actually having better luck with HDX Germicide which is 8% but is stored inside and the date is fresh. Last purchase of this stuff for me. I also pointed out to the staff that they need to store inside and they could have cared less.

I currently have an in-ground (60,000 litre) concrete pool recently renovated (last 12 months). I have been doing backwashes and rinses all this time and went to vacuum the pool to "waste" and have only just identified that I do not have any suction when doing any of those (backwash, rinse or waste).

When I run the Filter there is suction through the skimmer box and all seems to be functioning well. I have checked the spider valve in the head of the Filter and all seems to be in order i.e. no twists, wear/tear. In addition, the spring related to the lever that changes the filter position appears to be in good working order.

Any thoughts on how water is still being drawn from the pool and expelled without suction? Also how I can achieve suction when vacuuming the pool?

Kind regards

Chook

I made the jump this year from an easy set pool to this Summer Waves 14 ft. in plans to upgrade when needed again (2/3 yrs) and am hoping to prepare (level) my pool area ONCE. I realize I'll have to touch it up a bit. I will probably just go to 16 foot next time nothing too large.

However, I just started reading the manual last night and it states that I cannot leave this thing up!! That I have to take it down for the winter since we get below freezing here in Southern Ohio. I was so devastated! This purchase was one that I researched hours to make and obviously didn't research enough.

My question: Aren't there loads if people on here that keep there metal framed pools up?? Isn't that a thing? The ground will probably all have to be redone next year if I have to take it out this winter. Help! I'm only trying for 2/3 summers isn't it possible?

My next question is what's best to have down around the pool for covering the ground to best make the jump from 14 ft to say 16 foot later?

Thanks for any help. I'm freaking out because you can't find pools anywhere? And The Pool Factory are all basically regular price now.

Howdy everyone!

I'm working with a builder and trying to finalize the contract, about 80% done.
There is a line in contact that is giving me serious pause.

Contractor reserves the right to SUBSTITUTE parts or items, as deemed necessary, by Contractor.

Emphasis theirs.

When asking about this, the sales/designer guy says they put it in there for covid as they had problems with supply chains during that time. This is understandable for that time and now that that period is over, I'm asking them to take it out but he says the computer will not allow him to...

Of course, I ask, how often substitutions happen and he says "hardly ever". This statement carries as much meaning as a politician saying he won't vote for tax increases.

Does anyone have any thoughts on how I could add a note or rider to the contract that negates this? Or even any methods to get corporate to remove this line?

Example: They put the word 'ball valve' in the contract in a few places and it took me three days to get them to state they will put Jandy valves where 'ball valve' is called for. In my mind, the line in the contract allows them to ignore my preference (and what I'm paying for) and just put in home depot ball valves.

Sales guy says the sub can't substitute as the sub has to get all valves from the builder but this just does not seem right to me.

Am I over thinking this?

Real Use Example:
Will have a grotto with ledge water fall in the design and it only needs a ball valve to adjust for water flow once then it's a never use valve. But one day, I may need to use it or decide to change the flow and of course if it's a non-stated 'ball valve', it won't work. My way of thinking is, why not just pay for a Jandy ball valve or a Jandy two port valve? This way, I don't have to do pool repair three years after install. (Or lessen the chance thereof.)

Thanks in advance for your input.

1 month ago I did a purge, drain, & refill and started with the TFP protocol. So far so good!

My previous online research (& spa store advice) had advised me to keep TA btwn 80-120. So since switching to the TFP protocol, the biggest change (besides testing CYA and then switching from dichlor to bleach) has been allowing my TA to rest around the 60-70 that it seems absolutely content to stay at on its own (after having done the initial adjustment during start-up). I'm THRILLED the TA is staying steady - wow! AND with that, the pH has stayed pretty steady (7.6-8.0) without even trying. INCREDIBLE!!!! THIS in itself was worth the switch to TFP protocol!!!

I'm babysitting the chlorine the best that I can (at least every other day, but striving for every day), but it keeps going down to 0. So what is the technique for keeping it at the desired range 3-6, without it constantly bottoming out at 0? Last night it tested at 0 FC & 1 CC, so I added 1/2 cup bleach (10%) and got it up to 10.5 FC & 1 CC. This morning I retested (14 hours later) and it had fallen to 3.5 FC & 1 CC. So yay, it was within the "desired" range this morning, but I know it's just continuing to nose-dive. So this morning I added 1/3 cup bleach to bump it up so it wouldn't hit 0. Is there a better way to do this?

Other miscellaneous chlorine questions:
When I'm adding bleach, am I aiming for a certain level of FC? Over the last month I've learned if I'm aiming to hit 3-6 FC, it's just going to start lowering immediately - so aim higher, and then it'll be in that window longer (but I still hit 0, probably because I'm not at it every single day). Do I just add 1/2 cup of bleach (bumps it up by 10.5 FC) every night before bed, so it'll be at a desireable range throughout the day? If so, what do I do when I go away for a few days - throw a few cups of bleach in there??

The TFP protocol says to shock it to 12 1x/week. Does that mean add enough chlorine that would make it be at 12 FC?

At what point is it unsafe to soak in a tub? Can we soak if it's at 10? 12?

Thanks for your help!

P.S. Last night's test results:
7.6 pH
70 TA
0 FC & 1 CC
160 hardness
40 CYA

Greetings of respect to every member and moderator in this wonderful forum .

I hope to find what I need through your advice

I'm having a problem with the flow between the pool and the overflow tank, when the pump is shout-off mode

In the simplified hydraulic system attached to the pictures, what is the method through which the flow of pool water can be prevented from causing an overflow of the balance tank water?

Note that
-valves cannot control the value of hydrostatic pressure
-When a natural non-return valve similar to a Hartford loop is implemented that rises above the pool water level, the problem of the appearance of a back siphone remains.
-Sometimes we need a full flow from the pool for the purpose of water circulation and for another purpose mode related to a locally invented heating system, and this is done by closing the water flow valves of the balance tank.
-There is a problem with the type of spring non-return valve. It is not possible to achieve full crack pressure that allows the valve to be opened completely, which necessitates opening the pool floor water drainage valves by more than 60%.
-When the pool water flow valves are not opened more than 60%, there is a significant decrease in the available NPSH value.
-I hope I have conveyed the idea to you completely. What I want is a simple, traditional method that allows you to prevent the pool water from causing an overflow of the balance tank water without manual intervention or operation.

Also how can I use and understand the included spring check valve spreadsheet

I live in a country where there are not many types of valves with advanced technology, and I want a simple solution that meets the desired purpose.

Thank you. I have always learned a lot from this forum and I hope this problem will be solved

I have been getting my liquid chlorine at Wally World for just under $6/gal before tax, but the season is over, and it’s all gone meaning I have to pay slightly more for bleach that is 7.5% vs 10%.

I am considering switching to Zappit 73%, which allegedly doesn’t have CYA. Which at $240 for 50 gallons looks like it would be MUCH cheaper for me (in season I use about 2 gallons every 3 days, vs one bucket of this lasts the whole season or more from reviews).

Has anyone tried this with any success?