Hi all,
Recently I’ve noticed that when the automation center(pentair easytouch 8) calls for the valves(compool cv 24) to go from pool mode to spa mode, only one of the two valves moves to the proper position.
I checked the switch on the outside of the valve case, it’s in the normal switch position. When I flip that switch, the valve will actuate, but only in certain automation modes.
Also, I opened the valve case to check the internal microswitches. Both appear to be functional.
So if the valves are good, how does one verify the settings on the easy touch control panel?. The instruction manual is not very good.

Thanks all!!

I'm getting ready to install a GPC 210 to my existing pool and the installation manual says to use 2lb. check valves on both the inlet and outlet lines. I assume that refers to the cracking pressure or psi required to open the valve. It's actually not easy to find that information when searching for check valves online, but everything I can find lists the cracking pressure as either .5 psi or 5 psi.
I e-mailed Glacier and got this unhelpful response: "You are going to want to use a 2lb check valve or the pressure won't flow properly. They are available at most hardware stores." Does anyone have experience dealing with this issue or know where I can get a 2 lb check valve?

Since water temp affects LSI numbers, which LSI number should I believe? The number in the morning when the water is cooler, or the number in the evening when the water is alot warmer? Thanks!

If one dives deep enough into the Wiki, there are some important points that I feel should be included as a note on the above page that the average site peruser would more likely find:

"NOTE: Dry acid should NOT be used in plaster pools or pools with a SWG. Sulfates can damage concrete & plaster and degrade the coatings on SWG plates. Sulfates can only be removed by draining water."

(There is already a similar short note about this in the new Pool Math app descriptions for pH Down/Dry Acid.)

Greetings all!

This is my first post as a relatively new owner of a 7600 fiberglass pool (the Latham Olympia 12), with a SWG, for which construction was completed October of 2023. I am in Sacramento, California. The pool has an autocover which I've been using most of the time up to this point, but I'll probably want to use less as it gets hotter. The pool is set up to refill automatically as water is lost.

Since I took over responsibility for maintaining the pool, I have been using dry acid to keep the PH from getting too high. To date, I have added 23.4 oz of dry acid, with almost half of that added in the last week.

Yesterday I discovered the use of dry acid is "discouraged" in pools with a SWG. Specifically, the Intellichlor manual says: "The use of dry acid (sodium bisulfate) to adjust pool pH is discouraged especially in arid regions where pool water is subject to excessive evaporation and is not commonly diluted with fresh water. Dry acid can cause a buildup of by-products that can damage your chlorinator cell."

My question is: Did I catch this in time, such that I'll be OK as long as I don't add more dry acid? Or should I drain/dilute my water to avoid damage to my SWG?

Some additional details.

I did a back-of-the-envelop calculation based a 2019 post from @JoyfulNoise (Dry Acid (Sulfates)), and estimate that the dry acid I've added to date increased my sulfate concentration by almost 19 ppm of sulfate ions. This is of course in addition to the baseline in my water supply. Looking at the website for Sacramento City Water, it there are 18 sulfate tests ranging from 4.9 ppm to 34.5 ppm, with an average of around 12 ppm, and a regulatory limit in California of 500 ppm. (Am I correct in understanding "sulfate ions" added by dry acid to be the same as the "sulfates" indicated in drinking water quality standards?)

So, it seems I have likely materially increased the level of sulfates in my pool water, but might still below well regulatory limits. I also noticed that sulfate levels in the drinking water provided to rural areas around Sacramento are higher.

I tried to research this question on my own, but didn't see any reliable information about the level of sulfate concentration likely to damage a salt cell.

I only want to drain/dilute if its absolutely necessary, since (1) my water is otherwise excellent condition, (2) I hate wasting water, and (3) fiberglass pools cannot be drained, so that turning over the water in a fiberglass pool. But I'm willing to do it if its my best course of action.

Does anyone here have thoughts on this, or a recommendation for me?

Thanks in advance!
Galen

P.S. I hope this question is appropriate for the "deep dive" forum, but my apologies if there was a better place to post this.

P.P.S. I've been using the TF-100 kit to monitor my pool water. For reference, my most recent levels were: FC: 2, PH, 7.9 (after adding a bunch of dry acid), TA 80, CH 200, CYA 30 (need to increase this), salt: 3800, Temp 69 F, CSA -.18. I don't think this is relevant to my question.

Hi guys

The sand filter is a side mounted one.

I detached the tank and while it was working on the recirculate mode the water was coming out of the upper pipe.

Is it notmal?

My CH was down to 120 so I added 50 pounds of calcium chloride and it only increased CH to 225 . Pool Math says 27 pounds should have done that. 50 pounds should have taken it over 300. I am pretty sure my pool volume can't be off that much. I did this with chlorine pretty high (near SLAM level) but I get the same test levels regardless of chlorine levels it drops. Can anyone tell me how this is possible? Thanks

I am installing a solar panel array (Heliocol) on a patio roof. As shown in the picture below, the feed and return lines come down from the roof along a vertical post, then continue into the ground where they run horizontally about 25' before turning straight upwards to the pool equipment pad in the pool house. Where is the correct place to install the 3-way solar valve and check valve if I want automatic/gravity drain down of water in the solar panels? A traditional installation (like second drawing below) has the valves at the equipment pad but would this work in my up-down-up pipe run? Should the valves better be on the vertical post going up to the roof? (And what is the point of the drain-down solar valve if the water then runs straight into a check valve?) Any thoughts/guidance appreciated.

What a mess so far this year.

The pool opened on Saturday. Needed at least 8-10 inches of water... lowest I've ever seen it. Maybe the closers were over-zealous in draining it? Not sure. about 7 hours to get the pool filled back up and get the filter running.

I've been struggling with the filter ever since. Pressure keeps reading 35, I backwash and it comes back into the green/red zone... shouldn't it be dropping down bc I need to add more DE? I've been backwashing like crazy and can't get it to drop. Is it not washing out the DE? I don't see it at the discharge point. Had the grids replaced last year. I know every time you backwash a DE filter you need to add more DE so I've added DE a few times but not every time bc the pressure will not come down and the flow is just fine. I did put in a home warranty claim but waiting on the warranty pool company to call -- perhaps the pressure gauge needs replacing or maybe they can come clean the grids. Not sure if this is indicative of a bigger issue or not.

Now the fun.

There are so many leaves on the bottom of the pool that I decided I need to manually vacuum them out. This is the first time I brushed off the manual vacuum equipment since buying the house in 2020, and find it mostly unusable. So I got new equipment to vacuum with because my Polaris can't handle the amount of leaves alone. Problem is, I don't know which plumbing lines are which. I've been told in the past but seemingly it was in one ear and out the other. I tried turning off a line to see if I lose suction in the skimmer (I did) so I assumed that was the main drain. So I changed the valve and still didn't have suction. When I moved it to allow both pipes, I had skimmer suction. (see pics of plumbing...would appreciate any theories on plumbing). I have 1 main drain, 2 skimmers, and 2 drains in my hot tub. I can't tell what's going on.

Our salt is very low so I sent my wife off to the pool store while I vacuumed to buy a zillion bags of salt and whatever else I need to turn the pool from green to blue. They said our nitrate level is 20 and to drain the pool to 1 foot of water in the low end, refill, do it again, and then shock the pool before doing anything else. I have backwashed and added so much water to this pool in the last 5 days that now I'm concerned my hose water has nitrates and is just exacerbating the issue! Wouldn't that have diluted nitrates? She returned with nothing but a sad test result report and some shock.

I decided I couldn't consider draining the pool until I could get all the debris out of the bottom since I can't vacuum without water, and was hoping the leaves were adding to the nitrate levels. I have to return to this later today as I've got the polaris in the spa and need to figure out how to turn the main drain off to increase the suction in my skimmers.

I really don't want to drain the pool down. Are there any other options/tips for dilluting? I know chemicals can't fix nitrates.

Here are some plumbing pics if it's at all possible to remotely decipher what's what. Understanding this plumbing is half the battle. Apologies for the weeds

We are having an outdoor kitchen added by a reputed builder. We already have a pool with travertine deck.

The travertine deck was mortared to the previous concrete patio at the edges of the previous concrete patio. The rest of the travertine deck is laid on polymeric sand.

The builder plans on building the outdoor kitchen (basically a 8’ x 30” counter with built-in grill and mini fridge) directly on the travertine deck. Is this typical?

It seems odd, and potentially concerning, to me that they would mortar the kitchen to the travertine deck, half of which isn’t mortared down. The travertine under the back edges of this kitchen are mortared to the concrete underneath, but the travertine under the front edges of this kitchen are just sitting on top of polymeric sand.

They said this is what they always do and the pavers won’t lift.

Does this sound right?

So we just had a pool cover fitted for the new pool. The anchors they installed are brass and stick out like surei thumbs against the gray/white pavers. Do these come in black or gray so they'd be less noticeable? Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks

Just opened up for the second season since refurb, and although everything still looks good, I noticed a pile of ants and woodlice on the floor of the pool in one corner.

Looking at that corner, it looks like they've somehow got under the copings and are emerging through a gap they've opened up in the mortar. They're now also in the liner lock track.

So, a couple of questions:
1) How to eradicate the ants and woodlice? I've tried the ant bait stations hoping to kill the nest, but they've had no effect.
2) How to patch up the mortar under the copings? Is there a recommended ready-mix product for that?

Oh, also:
3) Is it worth fitting liner lock wedge profile to at least close up any gap between liner and liner lock? The liner has actually pulled out of that corner a little bit so I think I need to fix that before water/bugs get behind the liner, but waiting until it's hotter and the liner's more flexible.

I guess it's possible that you guys in the US don't have the same micro-critters we do; the ants are tiny black ants, and the woodlice I think are the same as in the US, little gray prehistoric microbeasties. Can't seem to get rid of either from around that corner of the pool.

When my Solar Breeze NX-2 died (stripped gears), I looked for a replacement. I considered the Betta2, Ariel, and Skimbot. I decided to go with the Skimbot for its features that the others didn't have and its price. It arrived yesterday, Friday, August 4th. Since it was raining, I couldn't charge in the sun. No rain today so set it out in the sun for charging. I installed its Pool Robot app and the Skimbot easily paired it with my phone. Lots of information and settings for the robot. It came with 50% charge on the battery. It also says the outside temperature and the wattage it generates from the sun. It took about 3.5 hours to fully charge with the wattage varying from 3-12W. The robot seems to run faster than the NX2. I tried the manual control from the app and the Skimbot was very responsive. I put it in front of my skimmers (we have only 1 speed) and it did not get stuck. It did not beach itself on the steps (water level at middle of skimmer). The edge cleaning feature seems to work well. It plays well with my Polaris 360 corrugated hose. It usually detects the hose and avoids it. When it did go over the hose, the robot's metallic ring around the paddles protected them. The sensors work well and prevents the robot from hitting the wall hard (the NX2 would slam into the wall).

There is a section in our pool where the NX2 would get stuck: it would wedge itself under the coping and the wheels would turn against the wall and strip its gears. The Skimbot does not get stuck on any parts of the pool so far!

I kept the settings at the factory default and will adjust as needed. One negative I noticed is the bluetooth connection with the phone is very limited. You have to be within 3 feet to pair phone and robot. However, I was able to control the robot via phone standing at the pool edge (can't control from my deck). I estimate the BT range is 20-25'. I also noticed that the robot will work for 20 minutes and resume cleaning in 10 minutes during the day and 20 minutes on and 1hour off at night, I assume to preserve the battery. 1 hour into cleaning and the app says charge is at 100%. It's fairly cloudy today so the sun is in and out. The debris tray is narrower but deeper than the NX2. Also, the mesh in the tray has larger holes than the NX2.

So far, I am impressed and happy with its performance. The true test is the durability of the unit. I don't see a reason why the gears on this will get stripped since there are no wheels on this unit like the NX2.

By the way, since I owned the NX2, Solar Breeze offered me a "legacy" discount (what they called it). Purchase price was $399.00 USD and I got the extended warranty for $65.00 USD (2 years total). Full price with 1 year warranty is $758.00, currently on sale for $548.00.

I know people recommend the Betta2 but at this price, I decided to try it.

Is a colored bubble solar cover better at heating a pool than transparent?

I recently upgraded my Compool 3600 to the EasyTouch Upgrade Kit, and I'm banging my head against the wall, trying to understand how to program it correctly.

I don't think my cleaner is working correctly and I'm confused about Spa vs. Spa Low. I was just trying to match my previous system/setup.

Here's how I have it programmed. Any red flags?

Circuit Names
Circuit #1 / Circuit: Spa / Name: Spa
Circuit #2 / Circuit: Pool / Name: Pool
Circuit #3 / Circuit: AUX 1 / Name: Cleaner (should my cleaner go on AUX 2?)
Circuit #4 / Circuit: AUX 2 / Name: Spa Low
Circuit #5 / Circuit: AUX3 / Name: Spa Light
Circuit #6 / Circuit: AUX4 / Name: Pool Light
Circuit #7 / Circuit: AUX5 / Name: Air Blower

Circuit Function
Pool, Mstr Pool, Freeze: Yes
Spa, Mstr Spa, Freeze: Yes
Cleaner, Mstr Cleaner, Freeze: Yes (Not sure what the difference is between "Master Cleaner", "Cleaner", and "Generic"
Spa Low, Generic, Freeze: Yes (is this correct?)
Spa Light, Generic
Pool Light, Generic
Air Blower, Generic

Equipment:
Pentair IntelliFlo Variable Speed Pool Pump EC-011028
Pentair Booster Pump EC-LA01N (just added) - Cleaner
2 HP WhisperFlo WF-28 C Spa Pump
Raypak P-R406A-EN-C Gas Heater
Pentair EasyTouch Indoor Control Panel 8-Circuit 520549 (just added)

My spa spills over into my pool (which turns off when I use the spa). There's a water feature out of the bottom of my spa (not used other than water comes out of it). I also have a waterfall separate from the spa.

The valves seem to work correctly if I hit the valves button on the board. The pool light and spa light work fine (independently).

anyone know where I can get some bulk O rings for my pump and heater plugs? they were cracking. on amazon, I only found full plug replacements. seems silly to buy a whole new plug when just the o rings need changing.

Hello everyone,

I have 3 different reading of my salt in my pool and I'm unsure which I should trust. My taylor kit didn't came with the salt reading unfortunatly.

The first method is the worst, a salt testing strip (that is expired to add to the false reading). This one give me 2450ppm.

My pool have a control panel which read the water and give information like temperature but also the salt level. This one says 2700ppm

At my pool store, they use a device with an analog meter on it in which they pour the water and the needle move depending on the salt quantity. This one give 3200 ppm. So on one end, I'm either at the lowest or the highest point in terms of salt. Should I trust my control panel since it control the salt chrorinator based on his reading and raise my salt level?

Thank you!

Ok. I’ve posted a couple times about my soon to be installed pool and and received a lot of answers.
It will be a 24 ft pool. I just received a rj45 45 swg today.
I’m upgrading from a big steel frame pool so I’m familiar to pools but still learning.
So,
I guess I’ll need a timer to run the pump and swg. My old setup had a timer on it. I have a two speed pump so I could run on low speed for long periods or high speed for shorter. The pump is 110 v. Originally I planned to just run the pump on low all the time. I then decided to do salt water so i figured I would regulate the time. Any timer recommendations?

Also,
Wind direction puts my most favorable skimmer location under where my deck will be installed. I’ve seen a few posts about this but anyone have current ideas or pictures with skimmer access trap door?

I’m very experienced with electrical and plumbing and building decks etc. but now that there’s a pool involved with everything it is getting a little overwhelming trying to plan all this out!

Had a giant thunderstorm come through last night. Got home from work today (I leave before sun up) and the pump wasn’t running and my pool was full of dirt. I checked it out and the fuse was flipped. I reset it and fired it up to back wash. The pump immediately started smoking. As for the dirt in the pool, it washed in from the side yard. Poor drainage. Now I’ve got a swamp of a pool and a presumably dead pump. My go to guy says he can’t get here until early next week. What can I do in the meantime to decrease further problems? So far I’ve just added some liquid chlorine, skimmed the floating debris, and am running my crawler.

I can't find my receipt for the part number of the valve pictured. I had this installed based on recommendations on this site, when I added a salt cell chlorinator. Recently, my ancient MiniMax died and it was replaced with MasterTemp 440K Ng heater. There was also an Intellivalve installed when I had added the salt cell. Everything was controlled by my Intellicenter.

The new heater installers said they had to cut out the Jandy Never Lube but installed a new one along with reinstalling my Intellivalve.
Next they removed the part pictured, I think it is a check valve, and replaced it with Pentair R177228.

Question, it this, Pentair R177228, a better part than the one I originally had installed based on the advice from this forum? If OK I will let it go, but if not, I need to reorder what I had and have them put it back.

I have been reading, learning, and following the advice here for over a decade.

Thanks for the help.

Christine

It has rained several inches over the past few days so we desperately need to rain water out of the pool. When we had a crack fixed by a fiberglass pool professional several years ago, I was told to never drain the pool if there is ground water present because it can cause the fiberglass to crack or even pop out of the ground, even if the pool is full of water. Unfortunately, I don't have a sump pit to drain water out from around the pool. Could I safely drain it if I used a sump pump and directed the water far away from the pool? Or do I need to wait 24 hours before draining it so the ground can dry out some? After seeing how much it costs to fix a crack in a fiberglass pool, I'm always hesitant to drain water out after heavy rains.

I replaced a seven year old IC-20 with an IC-40 about 10 days ago. The flow switch on the old IC-20 had failed and given its age I decided to simply replace the whole cell. I went with the IC-40 this time since the price difference was only about $100 and I liked the idea running a shorter interval each hour than the IC-20 required to generate the same amount of chlorine. Installation was simple and the new IC-40 functioned perfectly until this weekend. Today I noticed a red light on "cell status" indicator on the IntellipH Acid Dispenser and sure enough, the cell was totally dark, with no lights visible at all. I shut everything down, cut all power to the system, unplugged and replugged the salt cell cord into the IntellipH Acid Dispenser, and then restarted the system -- the IntellipH Acid Dispenser "cell status light" opened at green, the IC-40 lights flashed on briefly, both were encouraging, but then IC-40 went dark again and the cell status light on the IntellipH box went back to red.

Anyone have any thoughts? I replaced the prior IC-20 seven years ago too, it's a simple job and I followed the book again this time. It worked perfectly for over a week but now this. The pool is clear and clean, the water chemistry is fine except the chlorine is a little low of course. Other than that everything seems to be perfect with both chemistry and equipment. The only two things that makes sense to me are (1) I just got a bad cell, which I know is possible but statistically unlikely, or (b) the IntellipH Acid Dispenser itself just randomly failed right now, a week after the new salt cell got installed, but that seems like an odd coincidence too plus -- based on how it displays and operates -- everything about that little control center appears to be working normally.

I have to say, I was hesitant to purchase this pump. My Pentair pump lasted 9 years, and was a good soldier. That being said, I just replaced my first floor HVAC, and a new pump wasn't exactly in the budget. The 5-year warranty was compelling, and I figured I'd give it a try. The B&D pump was easy to install, as the plumbing interfaces are identical to my failed Pentair Intelliflo VS. The exterior is made of rigid plastic and the motor is a powder coated aluminum exterior. The Pentair exterior was painted, all of which was coming off when removed. The programming interface is easy to use and understand, where as the Intelliflo was incredibly frustrating. Most noticeably and perhaps importantly, it is whisper quiet. Perhaps my old pump had aged, but at 1500RPM, I cannot hear the B&D pump. Note, I do not work for Black and Decker.

All of this said, if anyone has novel approaches to automation, I'm all ears. They do sell a secondary controller that includes relay connections. I'd love to be able to see if it's operating, and get alerts if it goes offline. I could probably accomplish that with a flo meter, as well. I imagine automation solutions are in their product pipeline, given the popularity of the product.

Here's a video of the pump, operating: Login to view embedded media

Hi everyone, I am in the EARLY stages of trying to get AqualinkD running so I can connect, monitor, etc. with Home Assistant. I got the recommended USB adaptor and can get data to show on it when running this script in the instructions - "sudo -s eval 'stty raw -echo < /dev/ttyUSB0; cat -vte /dev/ttyUSB0'", and I think I got it to install okay, but I am seeing this error in my log:

Error: RS Serial: Can't lock (/dev/ttyUSB0) (11): Resource temporarily unavailable
Error: AqualinkD: Error Aqualink setting serial port: /dev/ttyUSB0

Now, when I connected the USB plug, both my RS485 ports were used, so I just piggybacked onto one of them, keeping the original wires in there and putting in the two USB wires in there as well. Is this not allowed? I am wondering if there is some sort of mix up since there are two wires coming out of the RS485 D+ and D- ports.

Is this sort of a iAqualink OR AqualinkD type of thing or can I have both running? Clearly I have no idea what I am doing so any help would be great. Thanks!

My TA is 110. In the pool math app, it says reduce PH to7.0 and aerate to increase PH. What is meant by aerate?

Hi all,

Okay, let's start by saying no electrical knowledge Hayward 250fdn heater AO Error. Just clicking when turning on, nothing else. Then just sits for a bit then goes to AO Error.

Following attached picture flow chart:

Is blower damaged? What does damaged mean, looks fine to me, nothing out of the ordinary, so NO.
Blower Vacuum switch wires 'look' fine to me, nothing that sticks out, so NO.
Vacuum tube- Don't see anything wrong with but did try replacing it just in case, same result, so I assume it's fine, so NO.
Voltage plug - I assume it should be 120?, if so that is correct.
Blower Ohms - Tested the Ohms on the blower (actually have a second used one as well) got the correct Ohms for each, and tried both, same result, so YES
Checked the voltage following their pictures got around 110, so YES
Says to replace the vacuum switch- that was actually one of the first things I tried.

Vacuum switch attached pic - I don't have that metal plate, what is its purpose?
On another note, my blower connects to the ICB board with a connector, see attached pic, not sure why, but it doesn't fit without it.

Any ideas?

Thank you!

TL;DR - Very old pump is probably fried. Looking for a similar replacement. It's a Hayward Self Priming Super Pump, 1.5 HP, Model #C48L2N134B1

Hello! First of all thank you all so much for your help last year in getting my very old pool up and running for the last part of the season. I was able to open it this year and get it cleared up for swimming within a week. I during the off season, I went through the system and disassembled the plumbing parts to see exactly what I was working with. I ended up replacing some old piping, replaced plumbers tape to get better seals, and some of the pieces of the DE filter that were gross from neglect or leaking.

Now there's a fun new problem... We had a storm blow through last night that might have fried the pump. That is the current working theory at least. Control panel to the pump is on with nothing tripped, it indicates the pump should be on, but the pump is not firing at all. We turned off the pump at control panel and turned it back on. We turned off the whole system at the circuit breaker and turned it back on. No dice. It was working fine until this morning. I noticed as I was going through the system in the off season that whoever last messed with the pump wiring did not do a stellar job keeping the wiring together. They ended up using a hose clamp to keep the coating on the wires (see photo attached to post). Now the fun begins trying to find a replacement pump for this system. It's OLD. Like, they discontinued basically all of the parts, pre-2008 old. Does the community have any recommendations about what to replace it with? I saw that there are more efficient pumps, but I'm not an electrician and I was wondering if that would require replacing the whole control panel and all too?

About the pool: unknown gallons (best guess is 36,000), in-ground, vinyl liner, Hayward DE4820 Pro-Grid filter, salt water chlorine generator. Let me know if you need more information!

We noticed these wrinkles forming from our integrated steps and moving towards our skimmer box towards the end of last season.
We contacted our builder (pool was just over a yr old at that point), and they took photos. They returned today for more photos to send to the GLI rep.

Any clue what could be causing these?
Our chemistry has been pretty spot on (thanks to this great group at TFP), and we do not have any leaks (no water level drop from when we noticed to opening this year).

Hi everyone!

Looking for help as I am in the dark when it comes to most things pool related. I purchased a central Florida home with an underground quartz finished pool that is now ~18 years old and my wife and I are thinking about redoing almost everything including resurfacing, waterline tiles, deck, screen, adding a heater, lights, etc... But one thing that we want to accomplish, since it won't be cheap, is wanting it to come out looking like a new pool and not a remodel.

We currently have 3" think textured and painted concrete for the pool deck and have been told that we have two options:
1. Use pool remodel coping like the following: Limestone Coping - 4x9 Shell Stone Limestone Remodeling Coping - Stone-Mart
2. Break up the concrete and use new 1" coping: 6x12 SHELL STONE Tumbled Limestone COPING - Stone-Mart

So I had this 'genius' idea, what if we just replace the skimmer and move it up 3" so that the new 1" pavers work without the need for the remodeling coping. We would be resurfacing and retiling the pool anyway so everything could be adjusted up 3". One of the contractors I contacted said that was fine and that they could do that. The other said, emphatically, that it should not be done as it would lead to leaks as the pools waterline was not intended to be raised the additional 3".

I'm not an expert here... at all... so I need some guidance. My friend told me that the skimmer should probably be replaced anyway if we're going to do all of this work on an 18 year old pool so I figured I'd look into this option. Above all else, I want the job to be done right so I need to know what is and isn't a viable option here.

Any help is appreciated!