What could this be. I scratched on it and it comes off after while.

Hello,

I live in Canada and my pool has now all the water melted. We didn’t covered it since in here they recommended us to leave it uncovered so that it fills in with the water from the snow. We only covered with a net in autum.

I have a question regarding the SWA. It is still too cold to turn it on, the water is around 5-6 degrees but I am concerned about the water developing bacteria. What do people usually do? Do they use chlorine tablets or liquid chlorine in the meantime? Or should I just not be concerned and turn my SWA on once the water is warm enough?

Any tips would be appreciated.

Thank you

I will be switching my chlorine Stenner setup to muriatic acid (installing SWG). I understand diluting the acid is recommended. I'm planning on using a 4:1 dilution.

When adding water and acid to the storage container while there is still some diluted acid in it, is it better to:
1-add water first (but isn't adding water to acid not good) then the acid?
2-add the acid first, then the water (again, adding water to acid- no bueno)?
3-dilute the acid in a different container, then try to pour that into the first container (can't see how to do that without getting acid all over my pool equipment)?

I'm guessing the first option would be OK if the diluted acid is weak enough, but want to make sure before I make a bad mistake.

Just installed this motor on what used to be a single speed whisperflo pump. It works fine with builtin schedule b but when i set the dip switches for communication with The Pentair panel pump is not turning on. I am using a Cat6 ethernet cable and i have run it through the same conduit as the power wires. Could that be causing problems. I certainly haven’t figured out how to set a variety of speeds but selected VS in the intelliflo pump menu and set a single speed for now. But pump will not turn on. Any tips?

Hey everyone,

I'm coming up on about three years since my pool was built, and over time, the calcium hardness levels have steadily increased. I live in the Las Vegas area, where we're known to have hard water.

I'm currently looking into reverse osmosis services in the valley and was wondering if anyone here has used them. If so, what were your experiences? How much should I expect to pay? Is there anything I can do to help prevent calcium hardness levels from rising over time—like installing a water softener for the outdoor water supply? Also, how often is everyone replacing/reverse osmosing their pool water?

I’d really appreciate any input. Thanks!

I'm looking into purchasing a saltwater generator. Not looking to break the bank but also want quality. Ive read you want to get 2x the size. Current setup is 19k - 20k estimate. It's a 27 ft x 54 inch. What does everyone recommend

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Mastertemp 400 with no fan spin up....or backwards spin up. I've read through a few of the other threads on here regarding the same issue: Service heater light and a humming fan motor. If I give the motor a spin in the correct direction, it will spin up and heater fires normall.

I'm pretty handy with schematics/meters and meggers so I ran some checks based off the diagram @JamesW provided. Mine is wired for 240 using the plug so I checked supply ac voltage on the red and black wires to the motor. Measured 239vac

Pulled the back off the motor and removed the capacitor, unplugged the motor plug. Ran some megaohm checks (insulation checks) on shorts. No windings are shorted to ground.

Black to yellow: 11.3 ohms
Red to blue: 11.4 ohms
C1-C2 1.3 ohms
C1- yellow: .1 ohms
C1-white: 11.3 ohms
C1-black: 11.3 ohms

C2 to Yellow: open
C2 to black: open
C2 to white: open
capacitor was hard to measure since I have a FLuke 88, just climbs and climbs. I'm assuming the CAP is a run cap and not a start cap. Usually if a motor has 2 caps then one is start and one is run

Megger checks:
Red-Yellow: open circuit
White-yellow: closed circuit
White-black: closed circuit
CP1-white: closed circuit
CP1-Yellow: closed circuit
Cp2-Yellow: closed circuit

My best guess is I have a bad start winding in this mini motor. Anyone know if you can just get a elect new motor or anyone know if a rewind shop can rewind it? Dropping 4500 for a new heater seems ridiculous when I can change out the motor or have it rewound.

Anyhow, gimme your best guess based off what I did

PS I did notice this strap, looks burned.

.

We’ve got a new build that’s finally getting the plastering done next week. We’re going with Pebble Sheen. We’re building a 26k inground pool and our pool builder says it will be a two day process - pebble sheen applied the first day, then acid wash the second day (and then filled with water the second day, in the afternoon).

Our forecast is showing wind both of those days - 10-20 mph generally. Is it problematic to do the final finish application while there is wind? Should I be concerned?

Thanks for any help.

Is there a mechanism to download a multi-page conversation I'm involved in? It would be nice to have a PDF containing an entire conversation. I could of course do a Print to PDF of each page, and then combine them in my PDF editing software, but that all feels a bit rudimentary. Just want to see if there's a more built in way to export conversations. Thanks.

Hi, I recently purchased a new home with an old pool that I believe is about 20K gallons and kidney shaped. I am thinking through simplifying and modernizing some of the management of the pool. The installed mechanicals currently are only:

Pentair DE Filter
Pentair 1.5HP pump

I recently purchased an AquaCal HeatWave SQ200R electric heater (the house is all electric) and ran 100 amp service to the pool area. I am having a pool company install the heater and open the pool week week.

At the same time, I would like to modernize the system by converting it to salt water and possibly to add some automation. My current thinking from reading these forums is to go with the circupool rj-45 but I am tempted by the core control 55.

Given how bare bones the system is I’d love any advice on what makes sense to do on day 1 to allow for the most optionality and expandability as I grow into the system and managing the pool myself. Thanks

Good morning!!

Asking for some reassurance from those that have gone before me. I have used a solar cover almost every year since I have had my pool (since 2013). I typically buy the 12 mil ones (maybe even 16?). And they only last about 3 years . After reading on here - I decided to save the money and go for the 8. I just placed it and it feels SO flimsy. Will this actually last three years??? I would rather return it now and get the 12 or 16 mil with the fancy upgraded verbiage. A lot of what I read on here was pointing to just saving the money and go basic and 8mil

Thank you for the insight!!

Just joined, so please get me in line if I'm out. I'm facing the decision of going with an aftermarket SWG. I can't find any mention of this (APX PERFORMANCE P40 Aftermarket Replacement Cell)
manufacturer on TFP, but this unit seems to top all of my google searches for SWGs.
I'd much appreciate hearing from anyone with experience with aftermarkets, specifically the APX.

Doing absorbic acid treatment today and don’t have access to Polyquat 60. I know poor planning. Is there another algicide I can use?

I'm very thankful to have found this forum.

My pool:
-26,000 gallon 10’ diving pool
- In ground (pop up) cleaning system
- Water feature
- Large connected jacuuzi
- Heater

Current equipment
- 2hp dying pump connected to every pool system
- Hayward DE6020 filter
-Hayward Northstar 2 hp pump connected to jacuzzi jets
Return Manifold
-2” pipe for main pool return to pop ups
- 1” pipe to aerator and 1” to mystery line
-1.5” pipe to water feature
- 1.5” pipe to pool wall ports
Suction to Pump
-2” drain
-2” filter basket
-2” jacuzzi
Jacuzzi 2.5” pioe from Northstar pump to jets
Heater looks like 2.5” as well
See photos

My pool was green when we moved in. Pool guy said he knew the house and the previous owner never wanted to put in a new pump or filter and the current pump couldn't handle the entire system. The filter pressure has been over 32 at times.

I replaced the DE grids and flushed the return lines. I adjusted the valves to out more suction focussed on the pool. I've been able to get the pool water in great shape through weeks of winter cleanings and $100’s of dollars in chemicals. The pump has a terrible drag on start up and is about to die. I literally spent 1-2 hours daily brushing, vacuuming and cleaning the pool. It's time to have the pool system take some work off my hands.

I bought a 2.7 hp VS pump and 525sq ft filter I plan to instal when I have the plumbing figured out.
-Would it be a benefit to the system for me to run 2.5” pipe into the pump, pump to filter, and filter to return manifold?
- is it worth it to increase all exposed plumbing to a half size bigger?
- Would it be beneficial to insert a flow meter or vacuum and pressure gages…or both? Is the juice worth the squeeze for the cost?
Between the conflicting information I've received from 2 pool professionals I've decided to research for myself. The first look guy told me new filter, 2.5 hp pump and bypass the heater. The second guy said 3hp pump and never bypass the heater.

I'm estimating the TDH to be around 55, not 100% sure. The flow rate for the pump filter combo is appropriate. I want to have the juice to run anything and everything I have on the system at will. I also want to reduce the time and effort to maintain the pool. Eventually I will install a salt system. Not because they are amazing in Arizona, but because the wife insists and I don't mind putting the effort in to maintain a salt system. I just can't keep up the daily work and chemical costs. We do have a tree, not ours, the craps in our pool daily.

That was a mind vomit of information, so if you hung in until the end I appreciate you. I just need to figure out the proper size of pipe to offer the best gain and reliability without instigating bother issues and need to know if adding flow meters or gages would help me in the future.

Ps. My new pump will be at least a foot away from the suction line elbow. The filter input and return will have appropriate swept elbows and straight line length prior to bends. Thanks in advance.

CJ

Using Pool Math v510 on iOS and macOS.

When clicking through pH Levels, it defaults to pH Down / Dry Acid but if I click on the menu to change to a different chemical it always shows the last thing I selected. For example:
- Shows pH Down / Dry Acid - click on 29% Muriatic Acid
= The display still shows pH Down / Dry Acid, but the Recommendation changes to the correct calculation
- Click Lower with... again and click on 29% Muriatic Acid
= The Lower with... and Recommendation now matches the calculation.

I also noted that if Lower with... is set to 14.5% Muriatic Acid when the current pH is 8.2, TA is 50, and target pH is 7.6, the Recommendation is Add 0.0oz or None to reach your target. I assume that is not correct.

Good day to all.
I fired the pool store about 2 weeks ago and JUST completed my second test using the
TF-PRO

I decided to clean the filter before adding CYA
I see all these spots in the filter. Have never seen this in over 15 years of cleaning the filter.

This is a new filter.

By the way, the pool looks clear and good right now.

Please have a look at the photo and my test results. ANY IDEAS ?

Appreciate your thoughts on this.

Thanks

Well, I hope to be through the worst of it and I’m not feeling too bad just four weeks in a sling , PT and then a little bit of time to recover and I hope I’ll be better than new.

Alright this is a long shot I'm sure but can anyone figure out the Make and Model of these steps?
I did see a Post by superdave5599 who at had them in 2023 but there is no info about what the steps are.

So if anyone here can help I would be beyond apperceive

Thank You in advance

Good Morning, I was wondering if someone can give me some advice on my pool and a high water table. I have a 30,000 gallon pool and hired a pool company to replace my liner. They started to clean out the bottom and water started rushing in. I have a well point already installed and they are using 2 sump pumps, but water keeps rushing in. All the hoses are directing to the street so they aren’t in the yard. I just don’t know that this company is working fast enough because the pool will dry they will leave it then come back and the water is back. It eventually pumped out sand and they removed the sand and now we are back with water coming out. Can someone please advise on what I should do to keep this water from coming from the earth thank you so much

Hi everyone,

I noticed after a recent heavy rain that there’s a small amount of water pooling around the edge of my pump pad. At first, I thought it might be a plumbing leak, but after checking all the visible connections, everything looks dry when the pump is running. It seems like the rainwater might be seeping in around the pad itself.

I briefly spoke to a concrete contractor who was doing some work nearby, and he said sometimes these small shifts or tiny cracks in concrete pads can let rainwater sneak through, especially if the ground underneath settles a bit over time.

Has anyone had something similar happen with their pump setup? Wondering if it’s worth patching the pad or just keeping an eye on it unless it gets worse.

Thanks for any help!

Thanks for letting me join. We bought a small (12 foot) above ground pool for my daughter about 3 years ago and it’s been a learning curve

I’ve got to grip with the basics but am now “improving things” as I go forward. New pump & filter using glass media this season along with an air source heat pump for cold British weather.

I’ve converted the small pump housing it came with to just a skimmer and all seems good with strong water circulation.

I’ve been using the basic test strips but now realise I need better information and am waiting on a proper kit to arrive, now that I understand more about the chemistry of the water etc. We do have very hard water where we live apparently.

I look forward to continuing to learn and hopefully I can give a bit of help back from my own experiences over the last few seasons.

Please excuse the tangle of hoses in the photo, that’s from test set up day and I will be making it a lot neater now I have everything sussed out

Hey all - I don’t know why, and I’m sure this could apply to all members, but I sometimes go weeks without thinking about posting something, especially when the pool’s closed.

But the winter cover is off!

I took it off myself this past Saturday, which was kind of a bear but once I got a game plan it was folded up into its handy bag in short order.

The water was as clear as when we closed the pool back in early November.

The cover I just undid all of the tensioners pulled it down to one end then filed it in 4’ wide sections, lengthwise, and shop vac’s it as I went. I’m sure it would have been much more of a snap with two people, but that’s one less thing the ooo guys have to do when they come.

And yes I do want to eventually open/close myself, but I need to watch these guys for a few times before I undertake that.

Anyhow, the past few days I spent a few hours each day blowing leaves around and then using a vacuum cleaner to clean the artificial grass, which sounds absurd, and likely looked so to my neighbors, but it works great.

I’ve been dropping some liquid chlorine in since I haven’t put the solar cover on.

And one other thing of note: it’s noticeably quiet without the pump running, or the heater for that matter. But once the system’s started up, it’ll run 24/7 until we close (1.5hp single speed). We did have the electrician put a timer on the pad, and I may elect to put the pump on a timer at some point just to see how it changes anything, but I like the idea of constantly moving/skimming/filtering, and the salt cell constantly making chlorine since the yard is basically full sun all day.

Any, looking forward to reading back through the forums for things I want to chime in or ask about.

Looking for advice on the better sequest products. I'm contending with some staining issues and input is valued. Copper is a big one but are some better than others?

Help me understand chlorine. We opened our pool last week. Pretty quickly it went from green to a teal color and our pool store (we love them and they aren’t trying to sell extra chemicals) said that is the dead algae. It’s 30k gallon chlorine pool with a vinyl liner. When we opened we dumped in 8 gallons of liquid shock and algaecide. Fast forward and we have been dumping 4 gallons every day since and it’s not holding chlorine. Our cya is 30. Our ph and alkalinity are both in the normal range and so is our hardness. There are no phosphates. On Tuesday we decided to add floc to get rid of the cloudiness. We’ve been letting it rest since then (2 days). It got a little bit clearer and we could see the ground in the shallow end and barely in the deep end. But, because it was sitting for two days a little algae is starting to grow. Then I discovered pool math and I followed pool math and slammed it with thr powder chlorine. I added 5 bags (per the app recommendation) and two hours later I tested it and the free chlorine is still at 1ppm. I just added 5 more bags. What else can I be doing to help this pool hold chlorine? It’s driving me nuts.

Hi! Am I overlooking this feature? I see that I can visit each forum individually and Mark Read, but not how to do all with a single button press.

Worked fine last year, then got switched to its new app Pentair Pool and won't connect at all. Unplugged, reset, etc.
Nothin'.

Any ideas??

Thanks everyone!

I found one old thread on the blue nexus. Is anyone using the pro version? I don’t find much reviews.

I just purchased a scuba s1 pro and it will not pair with the app. When i use the app it does not have the correct information for the device wifi and will not connect. Can anyone shed some light on this process?

We just moved and after being stored for 4 years I tried my M500 in our new home's fiberglass pool. It doesn't climb well and missed dirt on the steps. I also got an impeller 1 error message a few times but there really wasn't much of anything on the impeller. Looking on the Maytronic's site I found two dealers listed in my area. The first said that they only service the S20 model that they sell and I will xcall the other today. Now I'm wondering if I can fix the M500 myself or to just buy another robot.

I don't want to spend another 1k on a robot. The current sale prices on the Palmate bots has my interest piqued. I can't find much info on them but at $500 I suspect that this is only a few hundred more than a Dolphin repair when shipping costs are factored in to the equation.

I too have 3 non working ariels all with different problems. I would love to get them out of my shed. Would gladly sell