These look really good, seem to have recently come to the USA, has anyone tried one and confirm that its good or not? Particularly worried if it gets stuck on the drains like most seem to do lately.

Hello all
I am getting ready to open my pool. Today I disconnected my pump so that I could lub the O-rings. I can not get the O-rings to stay in their grooves during reassembly. The suction side one mostly stays in place, the one on the discharge will not stay in the groove. Any suggestions

Thanks

My aftermarket 40,000 gallon ‘T-15 equivalent’ cell from Leslies finally fatigued its way to ineffective status after about 12,000 hours (3 years at 11hrs/day). I just replaced it with this other aftermarket see-thru version called Simple Cell from poolguysupply for $399 and it seems to be working well. I keep the original ~$900 Hayward Aquarite T-15 cell stored as a spare.

Always wanting a better or cheaper DIY alternative, I thought I would see if there are some combos of metallurgists or chemists who might be familiar with the manufacturing process, such that it might be possible to re-coat the old cell? Some space-age titaniumish uraniumish metal paint from Sherwin Williams? A crazed thought perhaps. First problem is opening the sealed case and then exposing the plates. Then work the space-age paint onto the cells and find a reliable way to re-seal the cartridge.

I had acid bathed the leslies cell perhaps 6 times across the 3 years to remove calcium buildup. I’m getting less buildup these days, now that I’m allowing TA to drift down toward 50PPM and I’m no longer in the big fight between TA and acid while the ph would continuously try to rise and cause calcium buildup. So I hope for even greater longevity in the new cell. The revelation to stop chasing my tail with TA-then-Acid came from many great and appreciated TFP authors and is available circa post 49++ in Iron stain from pool salt - all or most salts have iron.

I’m guessing the recoat idea is a nonstarter, so perhaps the only space is between my ears? Cheers.

Hello everyone, My name is Max! I’m new to the forum and I’m a first time pool owner. I love my new pool but I could enjoy it a lot better once I learn how to control my chlorine and free chlorine. My readings are 0. Otherwise, having this addition to my backyard has created a new recreational area and I’ve discovered, I love the outdoors. Please be patient with me I am a beginner and new to pool community. There’s much to learn and I am excited about this amazing opportunity. Have an awesome day!

Hi everyone,
I have an IC-60 that is several years old and I’ve just opened my pool and am finishing up a SLAM and I went to turn down the SWCG and it won’t turn down! Its stuck at 100% and I cannot get it to activate the “boost” mode by pressing both buttons down either!

My chlorine is around 17ppm and has been holding steady and slightly climbing now that the algae is gone so I know it’s still working. I have changed the run time on the pump/chlorinator to a 8 hours instead of 24 hours like I usually do to compensate for the increased chlorine - I have a variable speed pump and it runs around 1400rpm for 16 hours a day and 2500 the rest of the time. I usually have the IC-60 set to 10% to maintain my chlorine level.

My question is can I take apart the front panel of the IC-60 and repair or replace those buttons? Is that what’s wrong even? Can the ic-60 even be taken apart? I haven’t taken it out of the plumbing to look at it yet since it’s still working… at 100%

I teach electronics and robotics and can solder well and have everything I would need in order to replace parts on a circuit board.

Thanks in advance!

Hey guys. Just wondering if any of the epoxy filler are worth doing and last a hard winter. I have white marble decking. Beautiful but good lord it is not very durable. It is set on a 2 inch slab to avoid settling in sand. Anyway, we have quite a few cracks here and there, along with corners crushed. I’m was going to try a product to fill them in but wondering if anybody had any experience.

I had an old Jandy RS16 based system which I had to upgrade from a single speed filter pump to a variable speed pump. I had my system upgraded to the 3HP Pentair Intelliflow VSP controlled by the new Jandy iAqualink 3.0 WIFI connected app. Everything worked fine but when I turned off the solar schedule last year, I must have messed things up. Based on some research online, it appears my solar JVA is aux3. The JVA works manually with the switch. But when I look in my app schedule the solar is gone and under "main menu", "system setup", "label aux", aux3 ( the solar aux is missing. It starts with aux1, aux2, aux4, ....au7, auxB1..... etc..) It looks like when I turned off my solar schedule, I somehow caused the existence of aux3 or any reference to solar in my app to vanish.

Does anyone know how to put solar ( I believe is the missing aux3) control back in the label auxiliaries list. I believe that since its not listed in the auxiliaries labeling, its name is not available for scheduling. So solar via the JVA valve cannot be controlled by the Jandy via the app. At least that's what I believe. Am I on the right track and if so or not, how do I get my solar JVA control back so I can schedule it? The solar JVA 24VAC wires are connected to the solar JVA connector on the main board top right but its not actually called aux3. Its just labelled "solar JVA". I figured that out on Google searches that aux3 was typically the solar JVA control. But its integrated on the main board so not labeled aux3.

Its also the one missing in my auxiliary labeling list. That makes me suspicious that I somehow deleted the label by accident.

Any thoughts appreciated. The pool guy who did the new pump and installed the VSP and iAqualink, has been away. I was hoping to figure it out before he was available. The whole setup is much more complicated than my old RS16 panel. I should be able to figure it out but its not that straightforward. Any help appreciated. The pool teperature is set to 90 degrees but I have no control over the rooftop temperature sensor. I suspect that even once properly labeled I'll need a warm day so the solar JVA is activated because the pool is cold and solar panels hot. I'll try that manully on the next warm day in service mode.

I live in a windy area and my pool is at risk from time to time of getting very dirty from dirt/leaves etc. Are non-chlorine shocks recommended in this case or should I just rely on manual cleaning etc? I almost never deal with algae because my chemicals are always kept within proper levels so I don’t ever use cal hypo and would just slam instead. Thank you.

I've just had a chlorine generator installed. I've had the skimmer crack and leak twice last year, so its being replaced. I now have leaks around the motor on an eight year old Pentair Superflow pump. Had all this not happened at this time, I'd fork out the replacement cost by having a new Pentair installed for me. Its hard and not a lot of options. I'm looking at a Black+Decker replacement with DIY installation.

The output side plumbing was just redone. In input side has not room left to cut out and replumb without cutting out the shutoff valve and going into a block wall. Nobody is too exited about this as the pool water line is above the pump and plumbing. The original Pentair unions were replaced after cracking in the last 3 months.

The reading I've done make it seems as if the B+D can be a direct replacement, without the need to replumb.

If its just a matter of screwing down the input and output with some Teflon tape and hooking up two electrical legs and a ground, I think I can handle it.

I'm looking for any input from somebody that has just directly swapped a Pentair with a B+D pump in case there are issues I'm taking into consideration to do this myself.

Thanks

I have a Pentair CC 100 filter body and discovered a leak where the 2 inch PVC goes into a coupler on the return side of the filter
I tried tightening it but only make it leak more
I have not taken it apart but I believe there is an o-ring in there and I realized after tightening it by strap wrench it needed to be hand tightened (according to a video I watch on YouTube)
I an assuming may have distorted the o-ring by over tightening it
Its a Pentair black coupler I guess thats glued to the 2 inch PVC
But all the Pentair illustrations do not show exactly what I looking at
If I could figure out what I am looking at
I am sure I could fix it
Maybe I screwed up the o-ring is what I am thinking or cracked the coupler nut by over tightening
Is someone could give me some insight into the coupler steup it would helpful
Thanks
Mike

Looking to upgrade from a single speed pump to a Hayward vsp. My liquid chlorine plaster pool is around 20k gallons and has one skimmer rated at 55gpm. Filter is Hayward DE 6020 and heater is Hayward 400K. In the not too distant future I plan on installing an Aquarite S3 Omni system.

Should I go for the 900 or 950, and for what reasons? I’m also unsure how you determine pump run time and at what speed. I live in SoCal so my pool gets plenty of sun…

Hi All,

I have a 31,000 gallon salt water pool that is starting to turn green and my mineral level is below the recommended level.

I recently bought a Taylor K-1766 salt testing kit. I followed the instructions and it took 15 drops of silver nitrate reagent to turn to a milky salmon color. 1 drop = 200 ppm, 15×200= 3,000ppm.

What does this mean? How many bags of salt do I need to buy? Thank you

I have a Tristar 900 1.85HP pump for my pool which is somewhere between 25-30k gallons. I just moved into this house and it is the original pool from 1978. I have two 1.5 inch skimmers pulling from the pool and a single 1.5 inch pulling from the spa. The main drain at the bottom of the pool was removed (plugged) by the previous owners. My issue is that I don’t seem to get a good flow rate to keep the pool as clean as I would like. I’m trying to avoid an expensive overhaul, as ideally it would be nice to re-plumb with 2 inch skimmers and add another skimmer and/or drain to the main pool. However, is there something I can do to help? My pump never seems to be fully primed (but no leaks as far as I can tell). The suction lines go from 1.5 to 2 inch and then 90 degrees into the diverter valve. Could this be part of the problem? Should I re-do the plumbing and replace elbows with sweeps? Get rid of the double 45 going into the pump? Would swapping out with sweep elbows help on the pressure side? See pics and thanks for your help.

We recently bought a house that has a pool and I'm trying to figure out components.
Does anybody know what these are and what they do?

1st is hose bib above pump. With the hose removed & the pump running when I fully open this nothing comes out ... even though water spa waterfall is spilling water (so the 2 inch line must be full of water and under pressure)!

2nd
A black port in the pool. I appears to be spring loaded but I can't make it open or move in any direction at all. It does not screw in or out either.


3rd is a device below the skimmer basket. It appears to have an o-ring seal interior, It also has a close tab on the bottom - photo 2. When is the close tab on the bottom used vs. just removing the whole thing? BTW, why are there two holes in the skimmer? When I run the skimmer pump it draws only from the bottom hole. Again, why would one close one vs the other hole here?

I have an older 4000 Pentair 4000 SMBW-4060 DE filter that is in need of a grid replacement. I've searched but can't find a good replacement set. I believe the filter part number is #074925 for the Pentair part. Anybody know if there are other replacement brands and model numbers I can use? What options do I have?

Forgive my etiquette in not introducing myself. I'm CJ, live in Arizona, and have had many pools. I've never done more than the standard maintenance and cleaning a typical owner would do. I have repaired and replaced some parts when needed. My claim to pool fame was a heater repair at my last home.

I'm a retired Army helicopter test pilot and maintenance minded guy. I’ve decided to completely remodel my new home and tear into about anything, and fix/repair, just about everything I think I have the time or desire to. I finally have the time on my hands to learn about pools and have the desire to be a self proclaimed ‘expert’ on my own pool and finally found a forumthat seems to have the knowledge and patience to teach me. Thanks for allowing me to participate.

CJ

Hi, it is nice to be here. Im Looking for tips and problem solving.

Hi guys

Anyone have good or bad experience with these pumps (see link below). I have a 25,000 gal pool and looking at installing the Pentair 022056 which has been discontinued. Because of this, I can get it new for under $1500 and also get a $450 rebate from my utility company. Pentair says they would honor the full 3 year warranty if installed by a professional. I’m just worried about availability of parts moving forward. Seems like a smart purchase only if the parts are interchangeable with the newer intelliflo models. Thoughts?

My name is Chris I have been I the pool industry for 20+ years in Pennsylvania doing troubleshooting for pumps, filters, heaters, salt systems, and water issues both common and crazy

When I start my pool, the pump has no prime. It pumps and pumps, and just as the basket fills... the water level collapses, and water stops coming in. When it resets, it starts pumping water in, the level rises... and the same thing happens. I see no obvious sign of a leak. All leaf baskets are empty. I turned off the aerator and vacuum. What else could be the cause?

Last summer we were given these steps by neighbors who were redoing their liner and pool.

The lady said that the chemistry had damaged the paint on the railing, and they'd tossed the other one altogether.
(I bet they maintain the pool just how the store recommends, lol.)

Anyway, the paint is flaking and there seems to be some sort of corrosion or reaction. Both of which cause junk to float around in the pool.

Any ideas or recommendations for cleaning up/whitening the plastic a bit?

How about for repainting the railing?

Found a home we are looking to purchase and wanted to see what type of pool they have?

Hi, I have a Jandy diverter and one of the screw slots cracked from the outer side. (photos attached) I know snugged it just a bit too hard unfortunately.

Can this cause an air leak? Is there a way to fix it? I read super glue maybe or could a longer screw work on this?

Thank you!!

Chris

I have a residential 24 round above ground pool. What is your take on using hoses vs piping.

Hello, Thanks to all for such a helpful Forum
I've done a few searches on here and come to some conclusions.
Just taken over the pool.
It's spring here, there is sun every day. The pool has been running over winter but without swimmers.
There has been a weekly visit from a Pool Guy. I think just additions of all in one tabs for the winter.
There will be no immediate swimmers, but I'd like to use as soon as possible.

First I raised the alkalinity to to 80 and the ph is at 7.2 (both were very low)

my test strip shows
TH over 500
FC somewhere between 5 and 10
Bromine? quite high 6 or more (is this a false reading to to high chlorine levels?)
TC 10
CYA 100

There are black spots appearing on the tile grouting.

So I think I need to...
1 Reduce the CYA level to at most 60.
2 Shock the pool (and scrub) to kill the Blackspots.

Any advice appreciated..
- Will a chlorine shock reduce the CYA by any significant amount? or do i definitely need to replace some water?
- In the mean time; Should i just use liquid chlorine and keep the FC at least 8?

I have a Prowler 920 that won't fully pass the startup. It moves about 5' in the water and then shuts down. Out of the water it moves forward, back, and spins the impeller. I replaced the cable and it was no help. I took the motor unit apart to find a little water in the bottom of it. Then I blew water out of the impeller motor. Has anyone successfully repaired the impeller motor? I watched the youtube video with bearing fix, but not sure if will fix my issue.

Hi All,

I had a Fiberglass IG pool installed a few years ago and have been following TFP guidelines for balancing and levels have been easy to maintain since initial balance (Thank you!!). After opening the pool this spring I added liquid chlorine and had a momentary lapse in judgement and unfortunately added one pack of Bioguard Smart Shock. The pool initially cleared but shortly after has maintained a very light turquoise tint (only visible in deeper water) even though water is still perfectly clear. I took a picture but the turquoise didn't even register in the photo. No staining. I recently completed and passed an OCLT test so have ruled out algae. I took a sample to local pool store for copper testing and it came back indicating 0 ppm (although I understand these tests can be inaccurate).

A few questions:
- Would the amount of copper in one 1-pound pack of Bioguard shock (Product Information: 63.05% sodium dichloro-s-triazinetrione 0.26 copper (metallic) 39% available chlorine pH...) be enough to cause this?
- Since the tinting is very light and appears to not be staining, can I manage this by small water adjustments and adding new tap water rather than a full no drain water exchange?
- If not copper, what else could possibly cause this?

Current Test Levels:
FC 6 ppm
PH 7.6
TA 60
CYA 30 (working to increase after lowering water level a few times throughout the winter season)
CH ~100 (working to increase again after lowering water level throughout winter)
Salt cell has not been turned on as water temp is still a bit below 60F

Thanks!
Matt

Hi! My pool company winterized my pool last September, came back to open April 15. The water level was low…about a foot of water in the shallow end…is a 25,000 gallon pool. We refilled while waiting for them to come out and finish opening, and the water level has remained very stable. Any thoughts as to how this could have happened? The pool cover has rain vents, we don’t use this area frequently in the winter but did not notice pooling water. Liner is about 7 years old, we have a light and deep end ladder. Thanks!

Hi Georgia Newbie Here,

First time, soon to be pool owners here. We are in the contract signing phase but before we lock things in, I wanted to get some eyes on our pool on paper and make any changes to things we may or may not need to run our pool once all is said and done. Please tell us if something is missing or is overkill. So here are the specs so far:

Pool
Gallons: 24000

Shape
Roman/Grecian

Style
Modern/Traditional

Spa
Square Spillover
Dimension 7'
Area:
12" dam wall with 6 therapy jets

Rebar
4 bar bond beam with ½ inch steel; 3/8 inch rebar tied 12 inch on center each way throughout plus:
12 inch on center in transition slope by 20 feet length
12 inch on center in deep end coves
4 inch dobe blocks

Pipes
3 inch suction line;
3" inch suction line for all pump motors larger than 1.0 hp
2 inch return line
Heavy duty surface skimmer
Jandy Ball Valves
Spa Jets with adjustable eyeball fittings (spa only)
Hose bib at pad for draining pool
All circulation lines are under pressure test throughout construction

Shotcrete
6 sack pneumatically applied shotcrete
Floor shot first, rebound removed
All shotcrete is measured by a certified weighmaster

Electric
Breakers at pad included
110 volt GFI protected light circuit with outlet
220 volt pump circuit
Jandy Control System
Bonding as per N.E.C. Code
(3) Led Lighting

What's Making Things Tick
Jandy Stealth Series pump
High performance circulation pump 2 1/2 hp MULTI SPEED
Premier Salt Generator
Jandy C Series
460 sq.ft. Cartridge Filter
Heater: Jandy JXI 400,000 btu (spa)
Maintenance Kit includes;
Telescoping pole, Brush, Leaf Skimmer, Test Kit, Robotic Vacuum .
Anti-vortex main drain grate (DUAL)

The Pretty Stuff
Pebble Plaster
Travertine Coping
Baja Shelf with 3 bubblers
Paver Decking
Glass trim tile for safety

Side Note
Spa will have to be run on propane as our home is total electric.

Thank you for helping us out! We'll be sure to bring you along for the build process.