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Main filter pump breaker tripped

Bill1974
Disconnect the pump or SWG and see if the breaker still trips when only one is connected. As state above also connecting the pump and SWG to a different breaker if one is available is a good test to see what component the problem follows. Also check the connections to make sure they are all tight. Most likely the breaker is the issue. If you had a lot of rain and the pump is exposed there is a chance water got in it and is causing a current leak to ground or the bonding wire.
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Omnilogic options ?

njswimguy
Hi Everyone,

I have a 5 year old Omnilogic controller - which I normally love - which is now dead. Back in August we had what I can only assume was a lightning strike (thunderstorms went through and the Omni had no display). I spent $2500 to repair it, including replacing the MSP module and a power supply board. I also added a $400 Siemens surge protector to the panel to prevent it from happening again. When we winterized, we left the breaker off.

Today the guys opened the pool, and the Omni came up briefly (long enough for me to get an email about needing an update) and then it died. The guys said they were going to call out their automation guy to look at it (he's coming on Friday). When I looked, I turned on the breaker and within about 2 minutes I could smell burning electronics. I opened it up (thinking there may be a literal fire) and narrowed the burning to the big power supply in the upper right. (at least I think so)

Anyway - I really don't want to put more money into this thing. I'm frustrated.

Does anyone know if there is a substitute automation system I could install, ideally while using the existing Omnilogic "can" so I don't have to have an electrician re-wire everything? Maybe a different less powerful Hayward controller that would fit in there? I honestly don't have much - VS Pump, booster pump for polaris, salt cell, 1 valve for water feature, led lights and a heat pump. I also am a home automation guy, so I'm cool rolling my own automation with Z-Wave relays if needed. Also am comfortable doing both line voltage and low voltage wiring.

Any creative ideas? I'm tired of keeping my pool guy's BMW shiny. (LOL). Thanks all!
PS: or even a way I could buy Omnilogic parts direct and install myself?
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Help with high CYA

Newdude
thiccflair21 said:
It’s my parents pool and they don’t want to spend $100 on a test kit.
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I wouldn't spend one penny or waste one ounce of effort with poor data. On any subject.
thiccflair21 said:
I’m guessing it’s not safe to shut down the skimmer valve and just use the main drain and set the filter to waste?
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If doing an exchange then its fine because the water level will remain roughly the same. (Providing youre checking that the in and out flows stay about matched)
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Help with high CYA

T
PoolStored said:
Replacing water is the only way to lower CYA.
Read "No Drain Water Exchange" here:

Draining - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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Ok read this and I hadn’t considered that I would need to buy another pump. I’m guessing it’s not safe to shut down the skimmer valve and just use the main drain and set the filter to waste?
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air leak repair

S
PoolStored said:
Does your pump prime and run with a full basket?
Are there any visible leaks?
Does you pool maintain water Level?

If the answers to Yes, No, and Yes. Then you are likely just fine.
When I move my multiport, with pump off for example, I get air too. I'm not going to rebuilt it until it fails.
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Yup, that's my answers.

I read the link you mentioned in your other post and wanted to make sure I understood. Air in the system is only from the suction side? So anything past the pump only will cause water leak? I dont think I get how that works. But I dont have any water leaks that I know of.

In that case, the one thing that stands out in my mind is the chlorinator line I have connected from suction line to the pump output line when I stopped using the chlorinator. I will hopefully get the plugs for that delivered in a few days.

Also the main thing that bothers me is DE leaking into the pool. Not sure if there are other issues with an air leak as my pump primes and runs just fine without any air leaks after a couple of minutes of running.
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Attach pergola to patio -- worried about gas lines under patio

C
Newdude said:
Lol. I think he was thinking a wooden structure you built yourself versus the metal-ish ones at Coscto that you could move around alot easier before they were bolted down.

I assumed the Costco style one from the start or else you would have been cementing the posts IMO.
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The much-debated wooden 10x12 pergola in question. No, won't be cementing in the posts to an already-built concrete patio.
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Help with high CYA

T
PoolStored said:
You need a good test kit…link—>Test Kits Compared

Why? Pool store testing is notoriously wrong, and your test kit is insufficient to manage the water. Giving advice on wrong test results, we can do more harm than good.

Get a kit ordered. Add 5ppm of liquid chlorine per day until it arrives.

When it comes, post results! We'll get you going.

When it comes, do the CYA test starting at #8 here:
www.troublefreepool.com

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…
www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com
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It’s my parents pool and they don’t want to spend $100 on a test kit.
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Sta-rite Max E Therm 333HD

J
wireform said:
Cycles several times on and off but at a point it throws a service light but nothing else lit on the back of the board.
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Check the Fenwal for a Blinking LED.
Loss of Flame Rectification is common for a Service Heater with no associated Error LEDs on the Board.
wireform said:
Manometer shows good pressure before the valve, never drops below the 4" wc which is minimum.
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Pressure Static and Dynamic?

Is the Dynamic Pressure steady?
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Pool Heater Suggestion in North Texas

K
Not sure what your climate is, I live in the desert and we see lots of 100 degree days. Currently we are in the 70s to low 80s, with nighttime highs of 40s.
I have a heat pump and love it because I can have my pool up to 85 by memorial weekend. I could sooner but no one seems to want to swim when its 78 outside.

My method of picking a heat pump probably breaks all the rules, but it works for me.
I have a 60A circuit for my pool and did a load calculation with my pump, light, robot, auto cover, etc. 40A is what I felt was a safe number for a heat pump. So I bought the Pentair Ultra Temp 70.
Yes, it's way under sized for my pool and it takes a week to get it up to 85 before memorial weekend. But after that, it only runs for a few hours in the evenings until late June. Then in late August - September it starts coming on again until kids go back to school and loose interest in swimming.

I don't believe everyone needs a 140,000 btu heat pump. Now if I lived on the other side of WA state, I'd need a bigger heat pump and a larger electrical service..
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Spa Return Not Working in Auto/Pool Mode

ajw22
jwcod said:
Just noticed it a few days ago after I vacuumed the pool.
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Check the pump impeller for clogs.

Turn OFF the pump circuit breaker and reach into the back of the pump and see if you feel any clogs. ..

Seeds can clog in the impeller and you may need to separate the motor from the volute to fully check it.

Clogging the impeller is why I do not like vacuuming debris through the pump into the filter.
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Sta-rite Max E Therm 333HD

J
wireform said:
it throws a service light
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Service Heater or Service System?
wireform said:
Manifold side I can't stabilize it's all over the place.
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Show a video.

The pressure should be a steady -0.2" w.c.

If it is erratic with steady inlet pressure, then the gas valve is likely bad.

Check voltage going to the valve to see if it is solid and steady or fluctuating.

Check Flame Current.
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Mixed Instructions - VS Pump & SWG

ajw22
Enzodast said:
What's IFCS mean? and in your experience the 1100rpm is enough to turn the SWG on? if salt gen is on 24/7 as is the pump...is it okay to produce the chlorine from the salt gen when it's running higher speeds?

what's the point of running the pump ever at a high speed except for initial startup to create the vacuum....DSP recommended high rpms for 2 or 3 hours to create vacuum then maybe 8 hours lower speed like 1500 rpm and then 8 more hours even less. Give the pump a 4 or 6 hour break then it turns back on and repeats itself.

i still need to learn more about the circuit sensing relay that was described above, it would be nice to have that as a failsafe option for the SWG.
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I believe it is thermal cycles and start stop that causes the wear on pumps and many other devices.

Thus running a VS pump at low speeds 24/7 puts the least wear on the pump.
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CYA over 100 despite using liquid chlorine

J
hhoran said:
Last tested late last year CYA was <40.
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I recommend testing at least once a month to avoid these types of issues.
hhoran said:
Is it really possible that a bottle of R-0013 could go completely bad between November and May?
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Unless the bottle froze or got really hot, probably not.

Get some new reagent and see what it shows.
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air leak repair

S
duraleigh said:
Do you see air bubbles flowing continuously through the pump basket when the pump is running?

Don't buy ANYTHING yet!























































/
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Tried to upload a video.
imagekit.io

Untitled - Easily share public links

Kick off your next, great Gatsby project with this default starter. This barebones starter ships with the main Gatsby configuration files you might need.
imagekit.io imagekit.io
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CYA over 100 despite using liquid chlorine

Donldson
Hey OP. I just want to give a little encouragement.

I know a lot of things are being thrown at you and can seem obvious questions are being asked or the same questions being asked more than once. It's because there is an answer to this problem and we know it can be figured out. Don't discount anything as irrelevant, it's amazing what small detail can possibly light up the bulb above someone's head. Some of the smartest people on this board are working with you on this, don't get discouraged if it seems like the impossible is happening. It's not and you're in the best place to figure out what possible thing is happening.
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air leak repair

S
duraleigh said:
Do you see air bubbles flowing continuously through the pump basket when the pump is running?

Don't buy ANYTHING yet!























































/
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Hard to tell if what I am looking at is air bubbles or just water being brought into the pump too fast? But yes it does look like large air bubbles in the pump basket, but its always looked that way, even when I've had no issues. So I may not know what I'm seeing but at least I know what it looks like when it is working.

Regarding not buying anything..... I did find this thread about closing off the chlorinator line. Login to view embedded media Used the link in there to buy some 1/4" NPT nylon caps. Figure for 10 bux, its worth a try. Interestingly, the OP there mentioned having DE leak with this same setup. I am not sure if he is right, because that would mean I have always had DE leaks and I don't think that is true. I definitely clean out a lot of DE from the filter cells at the end of the season.
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