Can you access it with a long enough rod or stick from the top? How is it wedged in the elbow? If you can attach to it from the top is it removable? I have a potential idea if you think you can de-wedge it and get it out from the top…

LisaBgame said:

I got the two going into the filter but I still can’t access it, it’s wedged on the elbow joint. Is it safe to try and separate this piece?

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Unfortunately that joint is solvent welded. You can only cut it apart.

FYI, I found the following in the install guide for the J&J Colorsplash XG series:

"Proper wet niche installation with the top edge of the underwater light’s lens at least 18 inches below the surface of the water in the pool and not more than 20” in Canada; reference Figure 1."

I don't have the Canadian code page handy, but it's not the first time I've noticed Canadian codes that are more restrictive. Perhaps they are concerned about increased possibility of seepage at depths, just a guess. The full install manual at: https://www.poolsupplyunlimited.com/Products/Manuals/143330_2017106175925.pdf

If they "Professionally" closed the pool, I would expect them to take care of the repair at no cost to you because it is freeze damage.

Let them know and see if they do the right thing.

Did you use the instructions I posted? Did you do it indoors or outdoors?
What is your water temperature?

JamesW said:

Do they blow out the lines?

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Honestly, I just assumed so given that we're in New England, but with this particular company, I've never actually observed the work.

4000 is fine. So you taste it, *a little*. You got the ocean right down the block and thats nearly 10x. Lol.

Michael z said:

Hello everyone, I am a professional in the swimming pool robot industry.

I have purchased robots from various brands for research, including Aiper S1 Pro, Wybot s2, Beatbot Aquasense PRO, as well as some smaller brands like Lydsto, Smorobot, Poolpure Aquaguard, etc.

In my daily work, I spend a significant amount of time comparing the data parameters of different robots and dismantling models from brands like Beatbot, Wybot, Aiper, and others. I also test robots from different brands in various pool environments, including green pools, to observe how they perform in real-world conditions.

Additionally, I’ve compiled some knowledge and insights about using swimming pool robots, which I’d like to share today.

If you are considering purchasing a swimming pool robot, feel free to tell me about your pool’s characteristics, such as:

• Outdoor or indoor pool
• Does the pool have stairs or steps?
• Is there a lot of fine sand,dirt to clean or big leaves to clean?

Based on your specific situation, I can offer recommendations to help you choose the most suitable pool robot.

Looking forward to discussing and sharing experiences with everyone!

Click to expand...

Thanks for the offer, Michael. Our Aiper Seagull 1500 is well into it's third year, and no longer climbs the walls. Aiper says they can replace the battery, and we'll be back in business, but I believe you can recommend something better for us. First, this Aiper has done well for us. It may not have fine filtration, but I have a

Michael z said:

Hello everyone, I am a professional in the swimming pool robot industry.

I have purchased robots from various brands for research, including Aiper S1 Pro, Wybot s2, Beatbot Aquasense PRO, as well as some smaller brands like Lydsto, Smorobot, Poolpure Aquaguard, etc.

In my daily work, I spend a significant amount of time comparing the data parameters of different robots and dismantling models from brands like Beatbot, Wybot, Aiper, and others. I also test robots from different brands in various pool environments, including green pools, to observe how they perform in real-world conditions.

Additionally, I’ve compiled some knowledge and insights about using swimming pool robots, which I’d like to share today.

If you are considering purchasing a swimming pool robot, feel free to tell me about your pool’s characteristics, such as:

• Outdoor or indoor pool
• Does the pool have stairs or steps?
• Is there a lot of fine sand,dirt to clean or big leaves to clean?

Based on your specific situation, I can offer recommendations to help you choose the most suitable pool robot.

Looking forward to discussing and sharing experiences with everyone!

Click to expand...

Thanks for your offer to help, Michael, and we need your expertise. Our Aiper Seagull 1500 is into it's third season and no longer climbs the walls. Aiper says they can replace the battery (or send a refurbished machine) and get us back in business, but I think 'twould be a good time to upgrade. This machine has done well for us. We have a 60x10 lap pool (4-8 feet deep) with a niche to the side of one end for a spa and a 6-foot deep 10x15 play pool, so about 750sf floor and 1000sf walls. Walls (exposed aggregate) and tile line, until the last few weeks, have never needed additional brushing except over the stairs and ledge. This Aiper may not capture fine dirt, but it gets it out into the water and our glass-media filter takes it from there. We'd upgrade for a couple of reasons: 1) From the beginning, it gets hung up one of the other of the floor drains, using up it's 90 minutes of run time without cleaning the pool. We added the foam pads Aiper suggested, but it still gets high-centered. I'd thought a track machine might be better? 2) Much less important, this does not clean the ledge or steps. It climbs the ledge and step walls, but doesn't get up onto the flat. I can start it on the ledge and manipulate it with the hook to keep on it for a bit, but it's easier to just brush it and the steps--and the walls above them. Are there machines that will include the ledge and maybe the steps?
And a limitation: Some of the flagship cleaners I've looked at are not only very expensive, but also heavy. Twenty pounds coming out the pool is fine (which means the water has stay in the pool), 25 pounds is probably OK (not 20 plus 10 pounds of water)--I really can't do 30 pounds, and I don't think I need the weight of a three-hour battery. I understand this isn't a buffet, and one has to make compromises in these things, but would do you recommend, please? Thanks again for your help.

PoolStored said:

CYA degrades over time, but that seems like a lot...only 30 days?
How old are your reagents?
Do the test again and follow these instructions:

CYA - Cyanuric Acid Test

Cyanuric acid (CYA) is the chemical name for the product commonly called “pool water stabilizer” … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

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At the end of last season CYA was 90.
I just bought my reagent kit last summer.
I then tested for CYA in April to know where my chlorine needed to be and it was 50. I tested that multiple times because I was shocked it was so much lower. Now today I tested CYA again and at the 30 CYA mark I could still see the dot.

The only thing the cover will do is retain heat, lower FC consumption and slow pH rise. Should do nothing that increases FC usage, unless you live in the south, when the cover would raise the temperature high enough to consume more FC and CYA. Not your problem in Toronto.

Post a full set of chemical results. Likely not the cover, likely algae...because FC got too low. Or, your CYA is low. What do you normally run your CYA? What is it now?

Let them know and see what they have to say.

Do they guarantee their work?

Do they blow out the lines?

here’s pictures of what I’ve done so far

I got the two going into the filter but I still can’t access it, it’s wedged on the elbow joint. Is it safe to try and separate this piece?

JamesW said:

Probably freeze damage.

Click to expand...

Is this something I should take up with the company that closed the pool, you think? Or just stop using them and take the L?

Pas_pool said:

Looks to be between 7.5-7.8

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Okay cool. I’ll throw a little more acid in tonight to bring the pH down a little more

Newdude said:

You have less variance than the cell, but you may be off and the cell may be right if they are close. If they are far apart, trust yours.

No. I like to run the lower 3000s because we start tasting the salt more at 3k. So I'll start at 3400 or so and let the rain dilute it down to 3000 before adding more.

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Ok I should have asked before I added salt. I’ll let it dilute. Or depending on my cya maybe dump and fill a little.

PoolStored said:

Would really help keep your CH down, and not have to drain all the time...

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You're not wrong but, its not happening. This is only the 3rd time I've drained in 12 years. I converted to salt two years ago and the only reason I drained this year was to acid wash the pool, it had never been done in my time of owning it.

PoolStored said:

Could be. Also looks downward or upward pressure cracked it. Never know which...
Depends on your skill for DIY. I do all my own, but I'm handy.
Ball valves are horible. When you re-plumb, use diverter valves. Jandy, Pentair, Hayward and CMP all make good valves.
Make sure to use a high-temp union on the input to the pump.
I'd replace the single speed pump at the same time. A VSP will payback fairly quickly in reduced electricity costs. It will also be quieter.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I'm pretty handy but have never done plumbing before.

Sorry, my signature is out of date and I already have a VSP -- I'll get that updated.

Would really help keep your CH down, and not have to drain all the time...

PoolStored said:

Do you have an autofill? Why not connect it to your water softener, then your CH will not rise all the time.

Click to expand...

We used to have a water softner, we took it out when it failed, Never replaced it. The one we had was undersized for the house in general to begin with.

Probably freeze damage.

The handles routinely break as they get old and brittle and the valves get hard to turn.

CYA degrades over time, but that seems like a lot...only 30 days?
How old are your reagents?
Do the test again and follow these instructions:

Could be. Also looks downward or upward pressure cracked it. Never know which...
Depends on your skill for DIY. I do all my own, but I'm handy.
Ball valves are horible. When you re-plumb, use diverter valves. Jandy, Pentair, Hayward and CMP all make good valves.
Make sure to use a high-temp union on the input to the pump.
I'd replace the single speed pump at the same time. A VSP will payback fairly quickly in reduced electricity costs. It will also be quieter.