Today was the day! Hoping to capitalize on the upcoming rain.


A bit of silt from my sieve of a cover But Roberta robot is working feverishly on that now.
System has been running a few hours a day since April 9th so I have made my way up to slam level with the swcg.
Steps look a little dingy- may throw some sequestrant in after fc falls a bit.

Kaptain said:

Should I add 500 gallons to my pool volume in the app?

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I agree with @Newdude Right now, you are overshooting with your additions...that means your pool volume is LESS than the 22K. Probably your shelf/steps account for a bit less volume. I'd leave it. It gives you a bit of skoosh with degraded chlorine etc.

All good!

Reminder, always follow this now, and keep your FC at the top of the range. FC up to and including SLAM level is perfectly safe: Link-->FC/CYA Levels

From Tabs and high CYA to now...Look at you. We want pics of this pool!

Post up too...Link-->How Clear is TFP Clear?

I had the drain cap on my filter break. It was plastic and old and I tightened it just a bit too much. Pool store had one for about $12 or so. As I stared at the broken cap, the size looked very familiar. I then went to Lowes and picked up a 2 pack of caps for an outdoor garden hose for 97 cents.

Rawhidesabi said:

So after reading all of the basics and going down the rabbit hole here what readings or forum posts do you suggest I read up on next?

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In the left sidebar menu or in the quick navigation section at the bottom of any forum page is the TFP Wiki.

Go buck wild in your free time. There are many links that will be relevant to you.

And Welcome to TFP !!!!

Rawhidesabi said:

So after reading all of the basics and going down the rabbit hole here what readings or forum posts do you suggest I read up on next? I am currently scrolling through the opening and closing sections to get more in tune with the process but If anyone has something to suggest that will prepare me a bit I am all ears.

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If you have annual repairs because of freezing, there is something inherently flawed. Could be materials, improper application/install of acceptable materials and/or just a bad design.

Concrete, paver or tiles can all be done, but each has some things that need to be taken into account to last and not be need regular repair. No matter which one you choose drainage and proper subsoil/base prep is the key to making them last.

Figure out what look you want. Share photo of the current state and it's issues. and share ideas of what your plans are. Rendering would be helpful for getting feedback.

Alright Awesome! Im excited to give this method a run now. I keep mentioning aquarium testing but i think it is the same in my opinion. When i test daily/weekly on my aquarium i am able to stop things before they occur and become more in tune with my tanks. I think doing the same with my pool will save money and issues in the future if I am properly testing my pool and watching the parameters.

So after reading all of the basics and going down the rabbit hole here what readings or forum posts do you suggest I read up on next? I am currently scrolling through the opening and closing sections to get more in tune with the process but If anyone has something to suggest that will prepare me a bit I am all ears.

Thank you all in advance. Forums have always been helpful for me when seeing someone with an obvious issue walk through the process with others and reach a resolution as it shows me the process they took and what was succesful and what was not.

Hey Mike and Welcome !!!

We need pics of that beauty. Kayak style pools with the decking were everywhere growing up in the north/east and now they are a golden unicorn.

Tattooed Nurse said:

How do I have 1 of CC if my test showed 0????

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Total Chlorine (TC) - CC = FC.

One way of seeing it is if you lost 1 FC to over time, you cumulatively had 1 CC over the same time. A little is expected from normal operation, and there is a 1 drop test variance. You tested 0 CC, so take the win.

Tattooed Nurse said:

And my signature is filled out

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Your profile is filled out. The Signature is here. Please put in all the details with model #s so they show below your posts and we can see them at a glance without going into your profile.

What exact Taylor test kit are you using?
Add it to your signature.

Post a few pics of your equipment pad from a few different angles.

Post a complete set of current test results.
FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Water temperature

Hi Beth. I noticed you've been using a 25 mL sample for FC/CC testing. As you continue on, use a 10 mL sample to conserve reagents. It will still provide enough precision. Multiply each drop by 0.5, or just divide by 2.

It may have been making the CH start to precipitate and dull the sparkle, but by itself, no. One way to find out, and once everything is in range, you should be back to TFP clear/feel.

Beth0277 said:

This means algae, right?

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Yup.
Go here and read a couple times. In "before you start" there is a link to a checklist you can print out and keep with you. Link-->SLAM Process

Strange. If you are using PC, clear your browser cache.

oakridge said:

Hi, I've been monitoring cracks developing on my deep end bench that seem to get worse from one season to the next. I just opened again and have yet to inspect under water. It seems to not have progressed. I don't lose water so I assume this was a result of settlement or plaster issues.

Would the following plan work?

For a repair, I want something to match. My plan is to mix a thick batch of plaster (pebble) from my original build with some bonding agent and maybe clean it with a wire brush first. I'm mostly concerned about the top side where you sit, but there are cracks along the side all the way to the bottom. The rest of the pool has no issue except one minor spot that is nowhere near as bad.

Thanks!

View attachment 646151

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Those look structural to me. Got a wider shot of the area to help figure out why things might be settling?

Also wanted to add the following.

SWG is Hayward Aquarite Plus E2.

I the pump and filter are also Hayward, I will look up further details on them shortly

Kaptain said:

Do I have an OCLT of 0.5? Math says yes but I never reached my target of 16.

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The target doesnt matter, only the actual. You can't lose what you didnt have in the first place.

So you started with 15 and ended at 14.5. The also 0.5 CCs makes it a no question pass, so long as the water and all the surfaces are TFP clear.

Kaptain said:

Should I add 500 gallons to my pool volume in the app?

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I wouldn't. Between rain and evaporation it'll always dance at least that much. 2 inches for me is 1000 gallons with a 20x40 so 750ish for you ?

Then you get slightly degraded bottles of bleach to be off further at times. Don't worry, you'll be a former jug lugger soon. Welcome back to SWG club.

The interface board should have been installed during construction before the deck and landscaping were done.

The kit consists of two boards: an auto-shutoff board that goes near the keypad and an accessory board that is installed near the Aqualink.

Do you have the key control or the touch pad control?

Confirm you do not have the auto-shutoff currently installed?

The problem for an "electrician" installing this now is that the auto-shutoff board needs to be wired between the motor by the pool and the keypad. And that conduit is probably buried under the deck.

And wherever the auto-shutoff board is placed needs a conduit feeding it with power.

Then, a conduit needs to be run from the auto-shutoff board to the Aqualink.

I don't know the path and finishes between these locations but I would assume everything is nicely finished and digging things up for the needed conduit and wire runs will make a mess.

The hookups are straightforward once the wiring is in place in the ground.

I think it will also be challenging to install the sensor wiring from the motor for the closed cover at the other end of the pool with a finished deck.

The blue wire is the existing motor to keypad connection you have.

The red box is the auto-shutoff that needs to be connected between the keypad and the motor.

The green box is the Aqualink accessory card located in or next to the Aqualink.

The gold lines are two new conduits that need to be run from the auto-shutoff to the Aqualink cabinet.

cthenrys said:

So maybe I am at the end of my SLAM. Tested at 20 after sunset. Still at 20 this morning were 0.0 - 0.5.

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Nice !!!

cthenrys said:

Just to be sure I am going to keep FC at SLAM through today and do one more OCLT tomorrow AM.

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I always vote for a way easier continuation verses possibly starting over in a few weeks.

cthenrys said:

One other question- I have three water features, all of which have dedicated pumps and returns. How often should I run these ? Since we have been here (~4 years) I have run all three about 10 min every Sunday. Is that enough ?

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Water goes stagnant pretty quickly. Flushing the lines for a few minutes daily is preferred, twice a day is best.

cthenrys said:

I have algae in the pump inlet housing. What's best way to remove ?

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Dilute bleach 10:1 like you were scrubbing inside the house and make believe you are scrubbing inside the house. Then rinse it well.

Pressure side vs robot - is that the real question? Obviously, the pressure side needs plumbing and a pump, so if for an existing pool that doesn’t have the plumbing, it’s a moot point.

I’ve never had a robot, but have a Polaris pressure side cleaner - don’t recall the model, a 380 maybe? It’s 18 years old and still works like new. I’ve never had to replace a single part on it. I have had to repair the hose and replace the valve thing that makes it float up every 5 minutes or so. I’ve also had to replace the pump once. I love the size of the large debris bag. I leave it in the pool 24x7 unless we’re having guests. It’s super easy to remove - just disconnect it from the side port and pull it out. While it picks up pretty fine debris, it doesn’t do so as well as a robot, based I what I’ve read here. But it cleans my pool quite well. I wish it would do a better job of covering every inch, but the path is pretty random.

From what I’ve read, robots clean extremely well, but longevity is an issue, especially for the price. Most say that they are to be removed and stored instead of leaving in the pool. That’s the probably the number 1 reason I’ve stuck with the side pressure. I want simplicity and having to lug the robot in and out of storage would be a pain, especially if stored in my garage. That would mean lugging it from the front of the house, around the side and to the back. Even if on a cart, it’s a non-starter for me. I have a shed in the back that would be a little more convenient, but it’s small and pretty full, so I’d need to make room. I like being able to press a button to start the cleaner or program a schedule - don’t even have to walk outside. Also, when I evaluated several years ago, the robot debris containers were pretty small. I have lots of trees and storms can knock enough leaves down to cover the bottom of my pool, so the small debris container was an issue, too. Capacity may be better now. The need to run an extension cord for power was also a bit of an annoyance.

I went through the decision process when replacing the cleaner pump. After researching, it was an easy decision for me - stick with the pressure side cleaner.

Holding slam for an insurance day or three is real easy, as you're seeing. (Great job getting here BTW)

Now think about how much fun it was when you started.