Mustard algae or sand

You didn't check CC - or at least log it. Is it .5 or less? That is one of the criteria, where all 3 need to be true.

The picture strongly suggests it is dead algae settling out. Your low level of FC last week bit you. A sand filter (even with glass media) can be less effective at getting the dead suspended stuff out, especially with a robot stirring some back into suspension. It will get it, but perhaps more slowly. If the amount does not greatly lessen over the next couple of days, you still have actively growing algae.

The criteria:
CC of .5 or less
FC overnight drop of 1 or less.
Crystal Clear and no sign of visible algae - alive or dead.
CC was 0 as it always has been. No I didn't record it. FC overnight drop was 1. This has been in my pool since we set it up and hasn't gotten any better or worse. So if it is dead algae, how do you purpose I get rid of it? I will do whatever is recommended to eliminate it. When we have used our hand vacuum, what is caught in the filter socks of the vacuum is gritty like sand or fine dirt but it always reappears by the next day.

Vacuum greatly reduces water in pump

How old is the hose? With age, it can get cracks between the corrugations in the hose. Also, it can get small holes in the ribs as it is unrolled and rolled on the deck before putting it in the water. You could try having someone get in the pool and hold the hose below the surface of the water. If the air disappears, you will know you have a small crack or pin hole somewhere in the hose.

Opening pool - which order to remove plugs?

It doesnt matter how you flood the system, all the plugs need to come out. (And equipment drain plugs in if removed).

If you have any expanding rubber plugs, open all threaded plugs and valves first. It may be under negative pressure and I had one get sucked into the pipe once because it was a bit small and fit. The threaded plugs such as the gizmo do not have that concern. Lol.

Crack in spa, efflorescence, popping tiles

Hello, this is our second pool and it is almost three years old. We built a new home and the builder had a pool side of the business and we added our pool through them. They are working with us but I’d like opinions on issues and resolutions. Our spa is built for eight. There’s a crack inside the spa and on the exterior wall mirroring each other. Been growing for a while. The tile top of the spa we e had continuous issues with tile popping off and efflorescence growing through the grout as well. There has been terrible lime scale or efflorescence growing in stalactites along the edge of the tile and the pebble of the exterior spa wall. Builder wants to patch the crack and add in the missing popped tiles but I feel this doesn’t address the underlying cause of what’s happening within the wall. Pix of problem areas and pool as a whole when built. Suggestions opinions welcome.

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Mustard algae or sand

If you tested FC after dusk last night (30 mins after last adds), did not run your SWG overnight, left your filter on and tested FC this morning before sunrise then you have 1 CC which means SLAM. You are not supposed to lose any FC overnight because there is no UV or heat to affect it. Only organics can use FC at night. PS: you've been on here for a while now, it's time to fill out your signature so we can see what all the details of your pool and equipment are including test kit.

Mustard algae or sand

You didn't check CC - or at least log it. Is it .5 or less? That is one of the criteria, where all 3 need to be true.

The picture strongly suggests it is dead algae settling out. Your low level of FC last week bit you. A sand filter (even with glass media) can be less effective at getting the dead suspended stuff out, especially with a robot stirring some back into suspension. It will get it, but perhaps more slowly. If the amount does not greatly lessen over the next couple of days, you still have actively growing algae.

The criteria:
CC of .5 or less
FC overnight drop of 1 or less.
Crystal Clear and no sign of visible algae - alive or dead.

Treat or drain?

Thanks Newdude. I put 8 lbs of stabilizer in yesterday and that brought my CYA up to 30. The rest of my readings are below. When my pool was last sparkling clear, my TA was running 140-160.....last year it ran a little above 200 and was never sparkling.

todays test
FC - 22 (I know this is too high...too much chlorine got put in last night on accident)
CC - .5
TA - 340
CH - 275
PH - 7.5
CYA - 30

I dont know what is causing me to have such high TA?

Heavy Algae not clearing

Two days ago I opened the pool
Am I just too impatient?
Yes.

A pool that particular shade of green is going to take time. You can see considerable progress between picture 1 and 2, but it's still got a long way to go.

Are you sure the pressure gauge on your filter is good? It's odd for a DE filter to not need cleaned often with that kind of water, if it is working properly.
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Opening pool - which order to remove plugs?

Hi Everyone,

Last year, I read about instances where the rubber return jet winterization plug was inadvertently sucked into the piping when pools were reopened. I want to ensure this doesn’t happen in my case.

My pool setup includes a single Jandy valve, with two skimmers connected on one side and a single drain on the other. When closing the pool, I followed this process:
  1. Plugged the skimmers.
  2. Airlocked the main drain using the Jandy valve and installed a plug inside the pump.
  3. Plugged the return jets in sequence—starting with the jet closest to the pump, followed by the middle jet, and finally the farthest jet.
My question is: When reopening the pool, should I follow this process in reverse? Specifically, should I begin by removing the plug from the return jet farthest from the pump and then proceed toward the closest jet?

Not sure if it's user error or a bad test kit

I have not sought out the advice from a pool store
You got industry advice one way or the other. We call it pool store advice as that where most people get it, but whether it was a neighbors pep talk, books, online reading, etc, the industry advice puts way too much focus on Ph, TA and CH while blowing off the chlorine part which is the critical one for being sanitary.


Since CYA doesn't rise without adding it, and since I am draining a bit at a time, shouldn't my CYA go down too?
You got it. But multiple drains also removes good water, so it gets less efficient each round. Let's use 50% for simple math, the first round removes 50% of the original water, then 25%, then 12.5%, then 6.25%. You drained 200% of the pool volume to get to 93.75%.

The #s are more favorable with smaller drains such as 10%, but the decimals are longer and i wasn't feeling more math this morning. Its still early. Anywho, just getting the theory across, multiple drains will get you there just not as quick as many think.
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Deep End Bench a goner? Big cracks

Hi, I've been monitoring cracks developing on my deep end bench that seem to get worse from one season to the next. I just opened again and have yet to inspect under water. It seems to not have progressed. I don't lose water so I assume this was a result of settlement or plaster issues.

Would the following plan work?

For a repair, I want something to match. My plan is to mix a thick batch of plaster (pebble) from my original build with some bonding agent and maybe clean it with a wire brush first. I'm mostly concerned about the top side where you sit, but there are cracks along the side all the way to the bottom. The rest of the pool has no issue except one minor spot that is nowhere near as bad.

Thanks!

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Heavy Algae not clearing

I’ve never had this experience in 25 years. Changed to a mesh cover 2 years ago. Two days ago I opened the pool and it is dark green, cloudy, can see 18” down. I started the filter and vacuumed to waste. Brushed the sides. Started the SLAM process using hypochlorite. I’ve been through 4 gallons in two days. Maintained FC 16-18. Running DE filter continuously, pressure is still okay. It’s a salt pool, I have my generator off. Today it looks just a Little better. Am I just too impatient?

FC 18, CC 1.0, PH 7.6, TA 55, CH 50, CYA 45, Salt 2000

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