Pentair diverter

Hi,

I am about to open my swimming pool, and I had a big doubt.

Last year a new filter was installed, and the old Pentair multiport valve was replaced with a 3-way diverter valve (see picture below).
In the old valve, the filter and the backwash positions were clearly indicated on the valve itself.
The new diverter valve has no writings.

1) What the correct position of the valve for normal pool operation? (i.e. the equivalent of the "filter" position in the multiport valve).
For the sake of communication, let's use the "off" label in the picture as a reference. In the picture, the "off" label is pointing at "3 o'clock".

2) I purchased a vacuum head, and I'd like to vacuum the pool immediately after opening the pool cover. The vacuum head connects through a hose to the skimmer hole. My understanding is that while using that vacuum head, I need to switch the valve to "backwash".
In the picture below, what is the correct position for backwash?

Thanks!

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Aiper Scuba S1 Review

If you don't mind I'm going to join the conversation too. I've got a bone to pick.

I was looking for a new robot and wanted something with pretty nice features for a decent price. I had already heard of Aiper through their relentless advertising, and this thread. Was thinking about the standard Scuba S1 but when I saw the S1 Pro came with 1) an secondary pleated filter, 2) more power, battery, and brushing, 3) IR object avoidance, and 4) app functionality including remote control, water quality monitoring, and summoning, for only a few hundred bucks more, I decided on the Pro.

I received it last week and immediately put it on the charger and connected with the app to get it going. I noticed once I had it connected there was a strange lack of the remote control and other advertised features this was supposed to have. "No matter," I thought. "It probably just has to be running or in the water to enable those features." Wrong, but we'll shelf that for now.

I should preface that my pool "contaminants" mostly consisted of fine dirt, silt and small leaves/grass, so there's a noticeable layer of dirt on everything. I chucked it in on Auto mode in the shallow end near a wall, making sure no air is trapped. It went to work climbing the walls first and it was looking promising. It made it around my steps just fine, stumbling on them a bit but not stopping. It's path was noticeably cleaner now. The problems started when it got to one of my return jets. Instead of using it's "IR object avoidance," it decides to traverse the jet and it gets blown off the wall, falling down to the floor in a daze. It realizes it's back on the floor and tries to climb again, but doesn't realize it's not in the same place as it was before, as the jet had blown it slightly left (into the path it had already been on, as it moves CW for me). It tries to climb again and gets blown off once more. It actually doesn't stop doing this until I finally intervened. Pretty disappointing considering return jets are not a unique obstacle.

So after I moved it over, it started reaching deep end territory. My pool is like many of yours, vinyl rectangular sport with angled deep end walls halfway down. It didn't have issues cleaning walls in the shallow end, but. Once the robot had crested the waterline as it scrubbed for a few seconds and stops, it would normally go right back down the wall. Instead, now, the robot was losing grip of the wall when it stopped and it starts to float away. The dual drives seemed like they slowed down when it was stopped, letting the bot lose grip and as soon as it separates the drives go 100% to correct the issue, but by then it's too late. The bot floats down and goes back up the wall to do the cycle again. Oddly enough, at first, the angles didn't seem to be an issue as the S1 Pro appeared to traverse them fine looking for the wall. However, later on as it spent more time in the deep end, it started to be an issue. Reliably moving from floor, angle, to wall without getting stuck in a loop in a corner on an angle was rare. Albeit, it never got truly "stuck," but it took a long time for it to finally escape on it's own which is precious battery life and cleaning time wasted.

I left it for a while and came back toward the end of the cleaning cycle on the floor and actually was pleased to see most of the floor was clean. However, I watched as it passed over some last few dirty spots and I noticed it was quite literally blowing dirt and small debris out of the drive propellers. ??? WTF is that about? I thought maybe the basket was just clogged and full and it was escaping somehow. After I had had enough of it, I hooked it out of the water and pulled the basket. Not full, not even halfway full. There should be no reason for that dirt blowing, especially with my ultra-fine pleated filter, but THAT is where it gets good.

The design of the pleated filter and it's housing make it all but nearly USELESS. See the referenced photo below I grabbed from a review from "Definitely David" on YouTube (I will be referencing this video later on as well). The filter doesn't even cover the entire area entering the drives. Notice the blue line is the housing where the filter sits in, and the red arrows indicate the space between that and the whole basket housing. That area on the side allows water to freely pass instead of forcing water through the filter. Now, there may be a little bit of water making it through, but basic fluid dynamics tells us majority flow is in the path of least resistance. Even if the drives spin inverse of each other creating suction in the center, it still isn't enough.
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All of that on top of my now learnt knowledge that WIFI doesn't move through water and the S1 Pro would not be communicating with the app while cleaning, unless you have the "Hydrocomm" buoy. It's only made more clear that this Hydrocomm is not included if you read fine print, but they sure do make sure you THINK it's included by showing off that the S1 "Pro" has these features in the marketing material. Essentially, without the Hydrocomm, pretty much ALL useful app functionality for the Pro model is destroyed. It puts it on par with the standard S1 in the way that you would never really need the app to accomplish the things the robot is capable of. Considering this and it's price difference is a really bad look.

"But what if you get the Hydrocomm?" you may ask. Well, in Definitely David's YouTube video you hear him discuss this. As of now, you cannot buy the Hydrocomm in the U.S. Aiper doesn't sell it. He said he found (somehow) some models in international market but they were going for $250! YIKES!! Paying a premium on the Pro model just to have to shell out another $250 for functions they've proudly advertised? As for the U.S., though, he said in his video that two representatives gave him two different answers, "No, it's no longer in development." and "Yes it will be for sale soon." Someone in the comments section of that video said the rep they talked to said "It is no longer in development currently because the 'technology is not there yet.'" and that sounds like the most real answer to me.

A summation of this is, Aiper designed the S1 Pro to be capable of great smart technologies using their app, by way of a currently in development Hydrocomm buoy. So they advertised the S1 Pro as such. They probably produced a few prototypes Hydrocomms that made it to China, however, back in the R&D shop they've realized they can't actually get their precious buoy to work reliably for the big markets, so they can't sell it. What would a good company do in this situation?
A) remove marketing material for Hydrocomm-related technologies on the S1 Pro and lower the price and credit current S1 Pro owners
B) hire a team/company smarter than them to help develop the Hydrocomm into production, or
C) leave the marketing material up and say/publish nothing public about it AND release ANOTHER new model (Scuba N1 Ultra) advertised with HYDROCOMM-ONLY FEATURES!


If you guessed C *ding ding ding* you win!

So, after all of this, I went ahead and shot an email over to support with my questions. It should be noted I did learn a few more things I've already discussed AFTER I sent this email which probably would've resulted in more questions sent but, regardless. I don't have a record of exactly what I said as it was on their own website submission page but here's the jist.
I'm having issues with my Scuba S1 Pro.
1. The robot is advertised to have object avoidance technology but it doesn't seem to avoid my return jets at all, which results in it getting blown off the wall.
2. Wall cleaning was working fine at first, but later on in the cleaning cycle it seemed to struggle making it back down the wall. It would reach the top and stop, and the drives would lower their speed allowing the bot to fall off the wall. It would try to correct itself right after it fell off but it's not enough.
3. Later in the cleaning cycle I noticed the drive propellers were quite literally throwing dirt out of them as it was cleaning?
Also some slightly non-related questions. Do you all have firmware updates you plan to release in the future, perhaps to correct any known issues or improve performance? And, where can I purchase the Hydrocomm? I was under the impression that these extra features were included with purchase of the "Pro" model, but even if not, I should be able to purchase the Hydrocomm to use these features. Do you have a release date or do I need to inquire directly to purchase?


This was the response...
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Notice how they straight up lie about the fact that their robot has object avoidance technology advertised. I mean for goodness sake the dang thing has robotic eyeballs protruding out the sides... 2 and 3 are incorrect because as I established earlier, the basket wasn't even half full (plus the visual confirmation that the drives literally slowed down on the wall before ramping to 100% after losing grip). And of course they didn't even address the other questions I had not number-pointed.


In conclusion... (TL;DR) in a world where I would keep the S1 Pro, I would probably just use it in floor mode for most of my runs while doing the occasional wall/Auto mode. I'd probably never touch the app again. As far as straight-up cleaning performance, it's pretty good. Not great not bad. To be honest I never really had an expectation of actually removing all dirt from the pool since it's just a robot. However, the ignorant design of the ultra-filter rendering it useless burns me. I don't have an issue hooking it out or plugging in to charge, as I don't think I'd really want to leave my robot in the pool for extended periods anyway. As waterproof as this thing is, UV and salt water are like nature's powerhouse solvent. Essentially, I see almost NO reason to buy the Pro model over the standard S1 right now, as many of its touted features are unusable. I think the standard S1 lives in a place that's just right. For that price, the path intelligence, ease-of-use, and (so far) durability seems to be very good. And even if it does break after the warranty, you hadn't spent a fortune. With the S1 Pro, you get those benefits but without the peace of mind in its cost. If you need the extra capacity/power the Pro has, I'd be looking at our more reputable brands like Dolphin, Polaris, etc. At least if you spend a fortune with them you're more than likely getting a higher quality, stood-behind product with no bullsh*t advertising.

I will likely be returning this robot for the standard S1 and be saving $500, so long as I don't find a better alternative first. I'll let you know if I do. Peace.

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Replacing Propane Heater

The old 2010 Sta-Rite LP heater (described in this thread) did not do an officlal cooldown that I am aware of.

You have a 6 button MasterTemp heater?

The new connected MasterTemp and Sta-rite heaters implemented a bypass valve control on the PCB so that the heater can control a automated bypass valve and not need automation. Unfortunately the heater firmware did not work properly. There is supposed to be new heater PCB with Version 2 firmware that lets the heater control the bypass valve.

Every old heater did a cool down. It was simply water continuing to flow through the heater.

The only reason the "offical cooldown" is now discussed is due to the implementation of the automated bypass valves.

And Pentair used to say to keep the pump running for 5 minutes after heater shutoff for cool down. Then lately they have said their heaters do not require a cool down.

By bypass closed, I meant 90% closed. I assumed that was obvious. Sorry for misunderstanding.

Closing a bypass means the water is no longer going through the bypass which would route the water to the heater.

Opening a bypass diverts the water from the heater and allows it to flow through the bypass.

10% water flowing through the heater is sufficient for any cool down.

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Lots of rain has finally gotten my CYA down! But just want to confirm I should leave the PH/TA alone?

Finally after last year having a crazy high CYA level due to incorrect readings my CYA is down!!! For those who saw my journey I started with a very large CYA reading, did a partial drain to get my CYA levels to close to 70, and then this year I noticed upon season opening the levels were around 60.

Well the last 2 weeks I've had lots of rain and having to drain some water below the skimmer line constantly, and these were my readings today:
FC: 4.5
CC: 0
PH: 7.4
TA: 130
CH: 125
CYA: 50
Temp: 76F

Aside from me topping off my chlorine level since it's close to 4, should I leave the PH alone? my TA oddly jumped higher as my PH went lower... (7.6 -> 7.4, 110TA to 130).

Otherwise I can finally celebrate that my CYA is under control 🎉
Yes, leave it alone. The pH will rise all by itself.

Cartridge Filter is only getting half used

Yes, have tried that a couple of times. Doesn't change things. I will say that there appears to be a lot of air in the filter.
On a continual basis?
It's either a suction side air leak when the pump is running or possibly air is getting in somewhere allowing air to accumulate in the filter when the pump is off.

What is your pump runtime?
Does the air accumulate in the filter when the pump is on or off?

Backwashing DE filter before pressure is at red line

I feel though that I would be backwashing like every two weeks then.
It changes based upon the point in the season.

In the spring and fall, way more crud dumps in the pool needing filtering. Very little filtering is needed mid season. Again, specific to your filter size and your yard. A bigger filter can hold more crud before it needs to be cleaned. . No more, no less. :)

Can pool leak detection DIY?

Will do bucket test soon.

Meanwhile, can @Bperry elaborate on "Turn off the autofill and see where the water level stops. Good chance thats where your leak is."? I mean how do I know exactly where the leak is located in the plumbing?
Dont assume its in the plumbing. 😉

If the water stops dropping when it gets below the skimmer, its a good indication theres a leak in the skimmer. Same for a light fixture or a return fitting.

The leak guy i sooke to saod most leaks are at thr skimmer joint to pool shell.

DPD powder storage

Maybe store the bulk supply container in a sturdy zip-lock baggie or a large wide-mouth bottle?
Yes the large bulk bottle is stored properly in a cool-dark-dry place. Its not the large bottle that clumps, its the little re-fill ones. Probably people dont realize that the lining on the small bottles of DPD powder is a desiccant agent and like any desiccant it will get full with humidity and stop working, hence my TIP to use leftover bottles from blood testing strip, and just like that. Its a Tip.
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Vgreen EVC225 2.25 HP motor with Hayward Super Pump

I'm looking for feedback from anyone who has upgraded their 2HP single speed Hayward Super Pump to the Century Electric VGreen 2.25 HP variable speed motor. It appears to be a simple drop-in replacement motor, but I'm curious about the following:

- Are you happy with product's performance?

- What is the noise level at highest RPM vs the original single speed motor?

- Are you happy with the pre-programmed run schedule limitations?

- Does the product work as described such that the motor runs the default program you choose at power-up? I'll be powering mine daily using the features of my Jandy RS8 controller and prefer this approach to replacing the entire pump with another VS alternative to preserve the current plumbing and my current SWG power on integration with my current automation configuration.

- Any pros/cons you weren't expecting?

Replacing Propane Heater

New MasterTemp heater? What did the old MasterTemp heater do?

If your heater bypass is installed and set following the Pentair Installation instructions you will find that the water flow is not shut off when the heater is in bypass. Water will still flow through for cool down after the bypass opens.

The old 2010 Sta-Rite LP heater (described in this thread) did not do an officlal cooldown that I am aware of. By bypass closed, I meant 90% closed. I assumed that was obvious. Sorry for misunderstanding.

Need help changing piping - Either Union Identification or suggestions on reusing the fittings that have no extra PVC

I have 2.5” fittings connected to the unions. Heater is a Jandy. I need two either replace the section with two unions and the back flow completely add an injection point after the chlorinator but the fittings almost butt up to each other, not enough PVC to use.

Can anybody ID the union parts I would need to order?

Any suggestions on how to do this alternatively (Adding a stunner pump injection point after the tablet chlorinator).

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Replacing Propane Heater

That’s a 175 sq ft cartridge filter … I wouldn’t consider any filter on my pool less than 320sf and, when I ditch my QuadDE and convert to a cartridge it wil be a Pentair CCP 520sf cartridge filter.

Bigger is always better when it comes to filters.
I guess our pools are cleaner than others are elsewhere. Having it entirely screened in with no foliage inside and mosquitos kept outside keeps skimming and dirt collection down. But hey, YMMV.

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Filter