Hello. My name is Justin and I Am a certified pool contractor down in Sarasota florida and also handle warranty work for several large companies (pentair and Hayward). It has come to my attention the pentair globrite lights have a huge failure rate. The housings all crack in the same spot toward the back and spider up the seam on the side and let water into the housing and it shorts the light out. The newer globrites seem to have a bit better build but for those of you who want a easy and diffferent option jandy now makes a Hydrocool P series light that will absolutely fit the globrite niche and also sync to automation (pentair) using the intellibrite color scheme. These lights are better built and slightly brighter. They literally just thread right into the niche via small threads in the niche I am have replaced about 40-50 globrites last year alone most under warranty and can recommend these jandy P series lights for an alternative without having to add adapters or other non sence. The light comes with its own tool for install and comes with several color snap on face rings to match your current light face colors as well as half covered lenses for directing light up or down etc. I just wanted others to know if you have had a bad experience with globrites going bad there is a better alternative that will sync and pull just as easy as the OEM. They come in 50-100-150 ft cords. If you have just white LEDs the normal jandy 12watt Hydrocool will also fit perfectly. The P series refers to the color scheme and sync to Pentair systems. If only white this does not matter. Thanks and happy winter. I normally do not recommend other brands like this but I have never seen so many failures of a product ever. It's bad. They have a manufacturing or design issue on the globrite. The microbrite isn't much better. Also jandy makes a H series that also fits haywards 320 colorlogic niche and color scheme. I applaud jandy for this and more and more of these companies will be going to offer more sync friendly options in the future. Also the ichlor 30 cells have a bit of a issue latley as well. But that's for a different post. Peace and good will!! These are just a few I've pulled and you can see they crack in the same spot every single time. Something is wrong.

Cross post from my introduction post:
"Good morning all. Wife and I bought a 9x18 Intex AGP last fall during the "end of season" sale on Amazon, along with a saltwater system, skimmer, solar cover & roller. We live in SE Michigan in a cookie cutter 1950's ranch on a small lot. We previously had a couple raised bed gardens and couple of non-fruiting fruit trees in our backyard. Last fall in preparation for this pool I killed all the grass, cut down the trees and pulled the stumps, tilled the entire yard to 8" deep, used a ditch witch to re-grade our entire yard and create a "flat" 13'x22' area covered in landscape fabric for the pool. I used a plate compactor on the pool 13x22 area but didn't get crazy on the fine tuning of the flat / levelness as I knew that tilling and frost heaving could change over the winter. Now I'm getting the supplies ready to put in a flat and level 2x6"PT edge around the pool base area and plan on filling in with mason sand and pack it down to make the final flat grade. Can't wait for spring!"

I wanted to have a thread to share our progress / receive feedback, so apologies for the cross post if that's not acceptable here. It's my first day here!

A bit more backstory; I've spent a lot of my early life in and around pools. Neighborhood community pool as a young kid, then competitive swimming during middle and high school. My wife spent a lot of time at her friends place with a pool as a kid and last August, mentioned that she always wanted a pool. This was my chance! We were in a bit of a transition on our backyard as we did have a raised bed garden that had started to burst its frame and we left to go wild for a year or so. Earlier in 2023, I did the "No Mow May", and with the wild garden absolutely took over my backyard with thistle and other weeds. It was dangerous to walk in our backyard from all the then-mowed weeds that left surprisingly stiff and sharp stalks. This was my first thought that we might need to go the nuclear option and kill all the grass and weeds and regrade the backyard as the garden walls totally blew out and we had 10" hill of dirt in the middle of our yard. We had also years before tried to plant some of these "fruit cocktail" dwarf trees that are supposed to grow 4-6 different fruit types one the same tree; apple, pear, and stone fruit. These trees never took off like they should have and never fruited, but did grow to about 12-16' tall. Unfortunately, I had mis-dug the holes for these and they were about 6-8" below grade. So between the garden hill and sunken trunks, +70 years of backyard existence, our yard had significant grading issues.

We discussed getting an above ground pool and took the measurements to make sure that we can legally have one in our small yard with the proper powerline setbacks and we could! We looked at the Intex 9'x18'x52" for around $1150 at the time on Amazon and we decided to watch it to see if the price came down as the season wound down. It did a few weeks later and were were able to get it for $880 with tax and free next day delivery. We decided to plan for a spring '24 installation and I got to work killing our grass and cutting the trees down. I rented a large tiller, ditch witch and plate compactor for a long weekend and was able to rip out the stumps, till, and regrade our entire backyard with a 13'x22' flat(ish) area for the pool. I covered the "pool pad" with landscape fabric a planted a sun/shade grass mix. The grass seed took pretty well and we had a stable lawn before the end of growing season.

We recently started to dress up our backyard with fence planters and new LED solar lights to illuminate these planters when we get them filled with flowers. I just bought 2"x6" pressure treated boards and a rotary laser kit to create a flat / level border a couple inches higher than the highpoint of our pad. I then want to fill this border with mason sand, screed and repack it to make the final flat pool base. When we are ready to install the pool, remove the sand for the 12"x12"x2" foot pads for the pool legs so they are flush with the pool base.

Any tips or suggestions are always appreciated! Link to my progress photo album.

My pool area tends to get flooded when it rains heavily and too many times I was out there at night with a flash light switching on my mechanical pool timer (getting shocked several times) and opening those valves to pump out the pool. As I already was using Home Assistant for several things I decided to automate my pool at the lowest cost possible.

Bill of materials:

• 2 x TPE24VA from ebay, roughly $50 a piece
• 1 x Enbrighten 40Amps switch @ $130 (this is the most expensive piece of my setup)
• 1 x Sonoff 4CHPRO @ $35
• 120V to 24V transformer @ $25 for the actuators
• Outdoor junction box @ $90 (sized it a bit bigger as I have more automation ideas)
• older Samsung tablet from ebay @ $90
• Yolink water temperature sensor @ $35
• various cables, boxes, etc
• hidden wall mount incl. power supply for tablet @ $23 (Makes by Mike)

Functions (see picture of tablet):

• automated pool timer (pump) on 9am, off 5pm
  • manual on or off if needed at night
• "drain for 2 minutes", "drain for 5 minutes"
  • turn drainage valve open, close after 2 or 5 minutes
• switch valve from "Waterfall" to "Spa" and back
• various ZWave light switches for light string and underwater pool and spa lights
  • pool and spa light is LED and switches to "next mode" when "double clicking" (different colors, blinking, etc)
• water temperature display

No more going out at night. When it heavily rains and the pool floods I simply click a couple buttons on the tablet






Still a lot more ideas for more automation, this is why I have a lot of space in my junction box for more SONOFFs. E.g. there will be more valve actuators for robot mode, bubble mode, etc. Thinking about measuring chemicals too. But I haven't heard about a low cost option yet.

Let me know what you think!

Thanks,
TruWolf

I really like the one photo online but can't seem to find anything more about the color! Has anyone built a Bali Blue pool? And if so post some pix. Thank you in advance.

Bst,
KC

It all makes sense now.

Hi,
I've inherited the family pool from my beloved and now deceased father. Im trying to handle it to ease mums burden at the moment. Problem is I have no idea what i'm doing.

I saw some great reports about this place on whirlpool.net.au and an app to input all the bloody measurements would really help. Versus my method of that chlorine testy thing sure looks not pinky today vs yesterday.

And then theres the algae, I treat it like family now. Cause its seemingly never leaving home. Everyone else says terrible things about it. But getting rid of it... well I was sure the sun would implode before that anyway.

Cheers boys!

Calcium Nodules
In 1998, the onBalance team published a paper in the Journal of the Swimming Pool and Spa Industry (JSPSI) on calcium nodule formation. The paper provided the science and mechanics for the cause of calcium carbonate nodules developing in pools. It explained that delaminated plaster (bond failure) spots/areas can cause cracks to develop over time and result in nodules continually growing on the visible cracks. It also explained that LSI (or CSI) aggressive water does not cause calcium nodules to grow on delaminated cracks. In 2019, some leaders of the pool plastering industry acknowledged that fact.

An Unusual Type of Nodule Formation
About a dozen years ago, the onBalance team began investigating a slightly different and smaller type of nodule in recently plastered pools. Some of the nodules had not developed on delamination cracks, but instead, they had formed on severe “crazing” or “check” cracks that were nearly invisible. See photos of small nodules:





A few pools were drained, and core samples of the small nodules were sent to a professional cement lab for petrographic examination. The labs verified that crystalline calcium nodules had formed on excessive shrinkage cracks and not a delamination cracks. It concluded that if cracks are large enough, small nodules can grow on the almost invisible cracks. The lab confirmed that the formation of the small nodules have the same mechanics and reactions that cause large delamination nodules. Also, the cement lab ruled out aggressive water because there was no sign of any (aggressive water) etching of the plaster surface.

Nodules Are Different From Scale
Calcium “nodule” formation is different from the common and uniform calcium scale that forms on pool surfaces as to due to very hard and out-of-balance pool water. This article is about the random formation of crystalline and sharp calcium carbonate nodules that continually grow on small cracks and protrude above the surrounding smooth plaster surface. See Photo of scale:



Cement/Plaster Science
It has been documented by the ACI and PCA that abnormal and severe check cracking or crazing can develop in cement/plaster surfaces for several distinct reasons. Hot dry weather, or strong winds can dry the cement/plaster surface and cause excessive shrinkage cracks. Also, poor workmanship and materials, such as adding a high content of water and calcium chloride to the (cement/plaster) mix can cause excess shrinkage and result in severe craze cracking of the cement/plaster surface. Proper mixing and proper application minimize shrinkage problems.

A False Theory
Unfortunately, there are some plaster people that are still trying to convince pool owners and service techs that (LSI) aggressive pool water causes the nodules to form on micro-cracks which are present in normal plaster. That is nonsensical; aggressive water dissolves calcium carbonate and prevents the formation of nodules, including common scale. And pool water chemistry plays no part in causing plaster shrinkage and cracking.

Their Own Test Pool Experiments Provided Contrary Evidence
It is interesting to note that those who suggest that aggressive water causes nodules likely know that the joint NPC, NPIRC, and Cal Poly Test Pool project (2004-2008) provided the pool industry with strong evidence that nodules are not caused by LSI (or CSI) aggressive water.

For example, during the four years of experiments, many test pools were plastered by the NPC and maintained with LSI aggressive water for 8 months at a time. Some test pools even had an acid startup performed. The pools were then drained and inspected by many pool industry people. There were no reports of calcium nodules in the test pools. If aggressive water causes nodules to form, then nodules should have formed in those pools.

Other evidence is that cement sidewalks do not form nodules on cracks when subjected to rain which is very aggressive by pool water chemistry standards.

This plaster nodule problem should not be controversial. Those who maintain the pool water chemistry should not be blamed for causing this plaster problem. And unfortunately, there are other plaster defects that are being (incorrectly) blamed on aggressive water chemistry also. This nonsense needs to end.

For a more complete and detailed explanation of all types of calcium nodule formation, click this link: Calcium Nodules – Pool Help

To review the petrographic studies by the professional cement lab on calcium nodules, click this link: https://2e7fc7.p3cdn1.secureserver.net/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/JSPS_V6N2_pp20-26b.pdf

I have searched this forum repeatedly, and I'm still unsure. For those who have signature matrix installed, how are you enjoying it, is it rough on the feet or is it perfect for what you want?? I'm looking at the signature matrix cadet blue for our pool build that starts in 2 weeks... Thanks,

ALL INTELLICENTER USERS

1. This week, I had the opportunity to participate in an online meet with two Pentair Senior Product Managers.

2. The primary topic was the long anticipated ability for IntelliCenter users to control IntelliValve positioning (5 user-defined positions), via the web-client/mobile app(s).

3. Below are a few key take-aways.

4. In the near future, I may have some further details regarding what the settings page/menus may look like and what features it may contain. With the permission of Pentair, I will share those features here when they become available.

5. That said, they are looking at developing a couple of drop down options which would contain "pre-named" valve names and Purpose fields. We discussed naming conventions. I suggested some names that I use on a cheat sheet that I developed years ago. They seemed to like those. I then suggested that the IntelliCenter community here may have many more suggestions on what they might like to see regarding valve naming conventions, because everyone's plumbing designs are different and varied.

As examples, here are mine.
* P/S Suction - Home-Pool/Spa Suction. Position #2-Spa Skim/Drain Suction ONLY.
* P/S Return - Home-Pool/Spa Return. Position #2-Pool/Spa Return Valve
* Skim Only - Home-Pool Skim/Drain. Pool/Skim/Drain Suction. Position #2-Vacuum Port Only.
* Water Feature - Home-Pool Returns ONLY. Position #2-Pool Returns AND Water Feature.
* Heat By - Home-No Spa Heater Flow Position #2-Flow through Spa Heater.
* Filter/Chem By - Normal Filter/Chem Flow. Position #2-Bypass Filter/Chem Sensor Manifold.

If you would like input on valve naming conventions and purposes in the drop-down/purpose fields, then please respond with your suggestions in thread replies below and I will be happy to pass them along.

6. As briefly mentioned in 4.(d) above, a complete redesign of the IntelliCenter web-client (intellicenter2.com), is being given higher priority and is on the "drawing board". They mentioned that this is due to your participation and input here:

INTELLICENTER WEB-CLIENT / MOBILE APP?

TO ALL INTELLICENTER USERS Since the introduction of IntelliCenter nearly five years ago, I know that many of you have voiced your dissatisfaction here on the forum, regarding the outdated, user-unfriendly and overall “clunky” style of the IntelliCenter Web-Client (intellicenter2.com). As some...

www.troublefreepool.com

They spoke to the fact that the "look" and "feel" of the web-client redesign will attempt to mirror the Pentair Home Mobile Apps.

BTW, beta testing for the Pentair Home Apple Watch app is currently underway.
r.

Our pool is finished! Pic attached for fun!

We mixed the salt in today and ran everything for pool school but it’s still very cold and I had the builder winterize until we’re ready to open in.

There are no chemicals at all in the pool, fresh city water fill and salt is all.

Should I add anything at this point or just let it sit until we open?

Thanks

I have been quietly observing this wonderful community of pool enthusiasts for a bit now, soaking up knowledge from both seasoned experts and fellow newcomers like myself. It's truly a fantastic environment & I'm grateful for the wealth of knowledge shared here. As we near the final stages of finalizing materials and signing the contract for SWCG pool, I'd greatly appreciate your guidance on the attached pool bid.
We feel confident that we have chosen a reputable and experienced pool contractor who is licensed, insured and has a track record of delivering quality workmanship but at the end of the day this is HUGE investment and we want to make sure that we are getting the right equipment.
Would you kindly review the attached contract and offer any recommendations or suggestions ?

Here's the design, we are modifying a few things from the design shown:
- centering the spa, with symmetrical cutouts on the far end mirroring the design of the pool & add round connecting section between the the scalloped parts to maintain visual harmony and balance.
- remove the fireplace included in the design below


We are thrilled to be finalizing the design & selecting materials for a new pool this Saturday! So excited but I must admit, I am feeling a bit intimated by the process and the myriad possibilities of missteps. Looking forward to learning from you experts! Thank you in advance for your guidance!

... asking for a friend .... ok, not really. As the title explicitly asks - anyone?

I've had some water issues lately that have cost me a bundle and could have been averted with a simple notification system. Also, my water utility sucks in terms of any kind of feedback from their meter (you can get your usage data at the end of the month when the bill is due and after there's nothing you can do about it .... thanks a lot). The Flume looks like it's an easy hook up to a standard residential meter. Just wondering if anyone has some real world feedback aside from all the useless reviews on Amazon.

Heater stopped working yesterday. Pentair remote showed the heater working, but nothing was happening. Incidentlally, I think the pump was shut off as well, possibly due to a power outage that could have tripped the breaker.

Our pool company is saying that it likely got moisture in the firebox. possibly through the exhaust, or residual moisture (equipment is in an underground pit room). Picture attached. It looks pretty corroded, but curious If others that know more agree before we move forward with 4-5k replacement. Pentair MasterTemp Pool Heater 400,000 BTU natural gas heater, salt water pool. Heater serial date is approx 9 years ago. Thanks!

Since I've been frequently complaining about my pool and having endless issues since I bought this house 18 months ago, we finally decided to do a major renovation and rebuild everything.
As such, I decided to catalog the journey here as I enjoyed following other people's stories.

While technically ground broke 2 weeks ago, we had a lot of major rain issues that caused a week delay. We are on day 4 of active work, and I will provide catch up pictures!
Proving Imgur link as I can't actually upload due to size it says
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We'll be going with a fiberglass pool, extending the decking a bit.

Happy to answer any questions! Pool arrives on the 6th, so they have a heavy focus on catching up the framing now.

Hi All - I have started the process of gathering quotes and thus far have narrowed it down to 1 pool builder, pair of ex-cops. Below is everything they have detailed, if I can get some guidance on what is good vs what needs to be updated or is overkill, and simply paying a higher price for something not needed please let me know. Thanks.

Pool Perimeter =90
Pool Sq Ft =450
Gallons = 10,368
15x30
Salt Water - no Spa
Tanning Ledge with 2 bubblers

Pool construction:
- Rebar structure is comprised of #4 rebar on 10" o.c. (Extra bars
in the floor and breaks) with a 4-bar beam and double wrapped
skimmer cavity.
- Pool shell is comprised of wet mix shotcrete. Minimum 4500 psi
and applied by certified personnel. We do not use dry mix gunite
due to its inconsistent application and inherent weaknesses.
Limited lifetime warranty on pool shell.
- All coping material is a minimum of 5cm in thickness.
- Main drain and skimmer lines are 2.5" SCH 40 PVC, return lines
are 1.5” and 2" SCH 40 PVC. All plumbing is run outside of the pool
shell to prevent compromising the rigidity of the pool shell.
Extra GFCI outlet at Pad

Pool Steel
Structural steel is #4 (1/2") rebar, 10" o.c. with a 12" x 12" 4 bar
beam.
Deck dowls are #3 (3/8") rebar.
Proper bonding with #8 bare copper wire and DB bonding clamps.

Tile - level 2 ceramic
Coping - Travertine
Plaster - Wet Edge pebble finish
Pool Equipment -
Drain Pots
CTM-25-0001 / 25521-000-000
2"FPT SIDE WHITE 8" MAIN DRAIN SUMP - 2 Each

SLIP U-3 SKIMMER W/O FLOAT
STA-25-1063 / 08650-6404 GRY 2" - 2 Each

EPUMP VS PUMP W/ 2 AUX RELAYS
TLD-10-2133 / VSSHP270DV2A 2.7HP 115/230VAC

CV580 580SQF CV SERIES CARTRIDGE FILTER
TLD-05-118 / CV580 580SQF CV SERIES CARTRIDGE FILTER

2-PORT CPVC NEVERLUBE VALVE
JDY-56-4054 / 4716 12/CS 2"-2.5"- 4 Each

STRAIGHT CPVC CHECK VALVE
JDY-56-4084 / 7305 12/CS 2"-2.5"- 1 Each

Polaris Freedom Cordless Robotic Cleaner
Freedom Cordless Robotic Cleaner
POL-20-0005 / FR550CBR

CLEAR WATER STOP ADAPTER FITTING
SPG-251-1183 / 25575-509-000 1.5"FPTxS

Heat Pump/Chiller - Either Jandy Versatemp JRT2000 or Aquacal SQ120

Automation for Salt (Per PB i need this for it to be a Salt pool)
IQ906-PS-PC-SWC Jandy Salt System
Jandy Aqualink® RS PS6 Pool and Spa Kit with PureLink Sub
Panel, PLC1400 and iAqualink
JDY-30-1743 / IQ906-PS-PC-SWC

INTERMATIC PX300 TRANSFORMER

100' RGBW NICHELESS LED LIGHT - HYDROCOOL
JDY-30-0709 / JLU4C24W100 24W 12V - 2 each

Thank you so much for the help.

Tired of your pool build blues? Just flip it over and make a second house instead!

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Hi everyone

I am located in Queensland Australia and I signed up to learn more about how others take care of their swim spas and hot tubs. I am also trying to gather knowledge around water chemistry and maintenance tips/advice. So far I have learnt a lot and have gone out and purchased a Clear Choice Labs test kit to start doing my own water tests after a few inconsistent experiences with test strips and pool shops. I have a Vortex Hydrozone swim spa which is dual zone (6000L @ 27 degrees C / 1300L @ 39 degrees C) model that we use year round.

Hi, I've been following TFP for pool chemistry maintenance, and I now find myself in need of help with a pool remodel...so I'm reaching out to the kind and knowledgeable folks here.

We remodeled our spa to be elevated, and I'm trying to figure out some details on the spillway. Please see the attached photos. My questions are:

1. We want to use a marble stone ledger for the exterior of the spa, and would like the aesthetic of having it wrap around the entire spa, including under the spillway. But I'm concerned that if the ledger gets wet on a regular basis, that mineral deposits will form and that cleaning/maintenance would be a hassle. Does anyone have knowledge or experience about this?

2. I've read some threads on TFP where someone has suggested that if water runs down the outer surface of the spa wall down into the pool, that can eventually lead to problems with the grout and water getting under the tiles. Is this true? And is the solution to have the spillway be a waterfall? We're planning to use the 3"x6" tiles in the photos.

3. To create a waterfall effect (rather than running down the side of the wall)...does there need to be an overhang? I read in a separate post that a 2 inch overhang with a groove or silicone bead on the underside is used to create a waterfall. However, I've seen many photos of spillways that do not have an overhang, and there is a simple right angle. I attached a photo of a wide (and curved) tile spillway that has a nice waterfall.

4. If there needs to be an overhang, what material is usually used for the overhang? And is there a way to create an overhang that is also tiled?

5. To have a waterfall from a spillway, I understand that some factors are the width of the spillway and the force of the spa jets. Is there a rough estimate of the widest a spillway can be and still have a waterfall?

Any help is greatly appreciated!! Thanks!

Ok … who loves their moka pot -



I certainly realize that a nerd-filled pool forum will likely have a high percentage of coffee brewing snobs so let’s not start any Coffee Wars here! I’m just looking for some fellow travelers who love a good stove top espresso and are willing to share tips. I’ve had some successes, and a few epic failures, with my beloved moka pot. I have a small 2-cup (120mL) Brikka model from Bialetti … reminds me of my grandpa’s stove top when I was little paisano running around the house … anyone willing to share some stories …

1. On the first of each month, a contest "theme" will be announced (i.e. water clarity, family fun, decking, custom features, lighting, scenery, etc)
2. Members have 10 days to UPLOAD ONE image for consideration; Photo must be related to the thread titled theme for that month.
3. Per general TFP rules, nothing profane, political, or insulting.
4. The first 10 days is the submission period. Posts are limited to ONE image ONLY. No discussion posts yet. This will make viewing much easier for all.
5. Days 11 - 15 the thread will be locked and is for voting only. No more uploads. Viewers now have a final opportunity to vote (or modify their selection) for their favorite upload.
6. Members are encouraged to use an emotion icon ("Like" or "Love") to vote for their favorite upload; it will be tough, but select only one favorite.
7. On day 16, emotion Likes/Loves will be tallied for a winner. In the event of a tie, we will create a poll on the thread to make a final selection.
8. Once a winner is announced, the thread will be unlocked and comments/discussions are welcomed. Winner and nominees can tell us all about their pool/photo/event.
9. A member can only be selected as winner once per calendar year.
10. Winner will receive a $50 gift certificate from tstestkits.net! Oh, and maybe some bragging rights.

This should be fun. Showcase your equipment pads. Let’s see those pics! Have fun and good luck to those who apply!

Just moved in to a house with a pool and hoping to take care of the general maintenance on my own, but I'm an absolute beginner. I'm in Sacramento, CA, so it's been pretty chilly for the last couple months. No chems have been added for at least 6 weeks, and the filter was out for 3-4 weeks. The filter is running again and I have the TF Pro with SLAM option test kit on the way. The water is still looking pretty good, so hoping I won't have to SLAM.

Questions right now are, how long should I be running the filter each day (there is also a Polaris vacuum)?

Once the test kit arrives, should I perform all tests or start with one or two parameters first?

Is there a particular order I should be performing these tests and adding chems? For example, should I start with an FC test and get that level in range before moving on to ph, or should I be testing and adjusting everything at once?

Thanks for reading, and for any tips or suggestions!

Joe

I was just standing here measuring CYA and the thought hit me. Does an easier manual method exist?

Rather than a sight tube with a dot, I was envisioning a wedge shaped vessel. A vertical back, flat sides, and a slanted front. There would be a black line down the middle of the back. You fill it with solution (heck, you could even have reagent and water lines on it, no need for a separate mixing vessel). Then you sight it from the front, the level where the black line is occluded (by the increasing distance viewed through the water as it gets lower into the wedge) indicates your CYA.

It seems to simple to not have been put into production. Maybe because it uses more reagent than the other method?

I'm trying to understand what caused this. The motor shaft on my Pentair Intelliflo VSF sheared off. Has anyone seen this before?



The details: VSF pump installed in 2019. Everything was fine one day, the next day the pump stopped moving water. Pump would start normally, but after a few seconds would throw an alarm due to lack of water flow. Opened the pump to find the motor shaft had sheared off flush with the mechanical seal at the motor. The now-detached portion of the shaft remains firmly attached to the impeller and appears to have a slight bevel at the failure point.

The motor turns freely and did not make any unusual sounds while running. We never had major leaks, but based on the condition of the motor housing we apparently had some. The impeller was clean so there should not have been excessive drag. Could the seal have caused this?

If anyone has any thoughts, ideas conjecture, I would love to hear it.

Thanks-

I have Intellicenter with 2 separate bodies of water (pool & spa). I hooked up both intellichlors to the data bus. Intellicenter controlled them as if they were 1 intellichlor (presumably for parallel operations). Well, I didn't want that because I run my spa intellichlor at 4% and my pool intellichlor at 40%.
I called Pentair and asked for technical advice. Pentair guy confirmed that intellicenter is working as designed and cannot separately control intellichlors with different settings. So I disconnected the spa intellichlor from the data bus. Now intellicenter software controls/reports on the pool intellichlor only. I don't see why Pentair would design a dual body system to control dual everything EXCEPT for the intellichlors. Weird design choice.

Your weather is drunk and causing a mess in my yard. Please come pick it up at once.

Hi, we have a new pool/hot tub combo. We use only the hot tub for now and all kids getting a rash . 90-95 degrees.
It’s a SWG pool that was just setup. Chlorine drop test gives me 30 drops (so result is 15?).
What else can I do?

So I am shopping around for a pH sensor that I want to mount inline in my plumbing and hook up to my automation system. I really hate testing pH. Everyone one of the industrial ones that I have seen need to be calibrated often. Do any exist that don't?

How do WaterGuru, Phin, Intellichem do it? Or do they need some secret calibration that I don't know about.

Ok well today I finally got all my parts from Intex to fix my problem I was having with my sand filter. Here is a link to that thread which I will update as well http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/101906-New-Pool-Intex-Customer-Service-Long-Post-lol

So basically for the sake of this thread I searched for Quikrete Pool sand and found no negative reviews and even found where people said it works just fine for their filters and Intex specifically. Well after spending 2 weeks waiting on parts (read the above thread) and cleaning almost 50lbs of sand out of my pool over the course of a month I see why it was happening and why all sand isn't created equal.

The sand I originally bought was $5.xx a bag from Home Depot for 50lbs and is the Quikrete brand "pool filter sand" the sand I have now was purchased from Ace hardware and is HTH and was $12.xx for 50lbs.

Below are pictures and you will see why the sand just blew threw the laterals and into my pool.












As you can see the difference is ridiculous. The pressure in my pool has increased greatly. My filter works so much better now too. Hopefully this helps someone out. The sand cost a bit more but works so much better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Had a fun time worrying about my pool freezing. Backyard doesn't get enough sun but water was barely flowing. I carefully used a soil tamper to break the glaciers and used a 100 foot hose from tankless water heater to melt away the ice from my water features and spillway.
Before:

After:

As the Big Freeze ends, everyone will survey the post apocalyptic landscape of damaged equipment and there will be a huge and desperate scramble for replacement equipment.

Begin to figure out what you will need and begin to get it on order before the current stock is depleted.