I have had issues with my Raypak heater for years getting very frequent Raypak High Limit 2 faults. I have changed the Unitherm governor several times (most recently two weeks ago), the internal bypass, replacing the limit sensors and adding a heat shield. I finally decided that I must have a ventilation problem as my spa heater gets direct sunlight and little air circulation (and I have read others accounts of similar situations).

But two days ago I got a new error message. My system said "High Limit 2 Open". and it remained with that message for about 60 seconds despite several attempts on my part to clear it (turing off the heater, pressing the mode button, etc). Eventually it went away and yesterday I got the High Limit 2 fault (requiring me to hit the mode button) almost immediately after I started the heater (brought water temperature up from 82 to 87 degrees). Then, upon reset, it heated to 103 without further issue. I just wonder what the significance of "High Limit 2 Open" vs "High Limit 2 Fault".

I have six of these installed 8 years ago. I don't know if just a sloppy install, but two of the six, the PVC pipe connection under the cup has fallen off. Bad Glue, Settling, who knows. They used the white flexible PVC, I do remember that. I have a concrete deck so they cemented around the cups. Best I can tell from the install diagram, the cups are tapered, small at the top, to larger at the bottom (dirt level under concrete). How much concrete do I have to destroy to get the cups out in order to reattach the pipe underneath? I thought about a dremel with a stone grind tool trying to carefully enlarge the hole (the concrete is slightly poured over the lip at the top of the cup), but I'm afraid I'm going to need a much bigger hole to get the cup out past the taper. A local leak detection company quoted me $2800 to fix it. I can live with no jets for that amount of $$$. Maybe contact a concrete company directly to cut them out for me? Options?

Best time of year!

I am looking to paint my gunnite pool with epoxy based paint. Looking to paint it from natural white/concrete color to more of a royal blue color to hide dirt a little better and to also help heat pool better. Any recommendations for choosing an epoxy paint? TIA

How long after using dry acid to lower pool PH is it safe to swim?

I was thinking about this today. Thankfully this doesnt really apply to my pool cause its shallow and I haven't experienced any mega algae outbreaks, but.....!!!

What happens if algae develops in someone's pool underneath the drain covers when they have really deep (8 feet+) pools? I know algae can sometimes develop a protective barrier over itself that needs to be scrubbed so the chlorine can actually kill the algae. So... what do pool owners do in this situations? Do they have to snorkel dive and remove the drain cover to brush underneath? Or is there an alternative? (Let's assume for the sake of argument, SLAMMING doesn't kill the algae under that drain cover).

Does this scenario ever happen to people? I'm wonder if, since there's a drain and lots of water flow right by, it's unlikely for algae to survive there during a SLAM because the water there definitely wouldn't be stagnant... Any thoughts?

Just curious I suppose.

I've read that quite a few people use hair nets to cover their skimmer, helping prevent debris from getting to the pump and filter. My question is what type of hair net should I use? "Pool socks" look the have a a knit texture, but hair nets like that seem to have rather large holes. The other type of hair net appears to be a polypropylene material, but looks like the fibers are so close that it might impact the water flow through it.

Can anyone tell me what kind of hair net I should get?

Thanks,

Kelley

Hello fellow members,
I have been a pool owner for many years and hopefully can contribute to other members.

We will try 112 in AZ today. Ordered my Taylor 2006C so I can get a grip on my chemistry. Then get to tackle the dreaded black algae in/on the pebble tec of my cocktail pool

Very Good Cabana Boy/ Very Bad Pool maintenance guy. Have a 20+k gunite pool that is impossible to keep clean. Previous owners covered bottom drain, so only left with skimmer to do the job. Anyone got any help for the shellshocked guy?

Hi TFP, I was wondering if I can mix Cal-Hypo with pool water in the same bucket as I previously used for mixing Dry Acid or Calcium + (Not 100% sure what chemical that is) (Both before turning to the TFP methods).

Consider a basic Jandy Nevetlube 2-way valve like this one.

Is there a correct orientation of the valve as far as which side the sealing part of the valve should be when the valve is closed? As I see it, it would be better to have the sealing take place on the down stream side, so that the pressure pushes the seal against the seating surface. But this means the valve body is itself under pressure which perhaps is not desirable.

If it's not clear what I'm asking let me know and I'll sketch something. Thanks!

I recently upgraded to a variable speed pump as my old one was about to go out.

I chose one of the higher HP Jandy models and have tried to program low speed and high speed filtration.

When I program only variable speed options (VSP1 Spd Adj), the program never turns on the pump. I have to program "filter pump" into the program and then the pump turns on. However, when it is on, the pump changes between low speed (2150) and high speed (3250) at random.

I have cleared out all of the programs and rebooted the iAqualink system and still have the same issue.

Does anyone have a sense of what could be causing this? I'd like to be able to know how much high speed filtration I am getting.

Thanks for your help.

Dave

Hey there. First time pool owner. This is what I inherited. Closed the past 2.5 years. Poorly maintained. But I am determined to make it special for my family and I this summer. Tried calling pool people but right around the time I closed on the house was peak pool season so no luck. I’m on my own and I am definitely going to need youre help.

I'm have a cloudy greenish problem. I have maintained CYA at about 50 (always), FC level at (usually) 5-10, with a high of 30 three weeks ago when I first noted the algae. Since, I have changed my filter cartridges twice ( I have two sets and clean them pretty thoroughly before and again after they are stored) with pH of 7.2. When this started four weeks ago with the algae, I did the high FC thing with some improvement, but not great. Did the cartridge changes 10 days apart (pressure didn't get high, but I had to do something) and still cloudy with new green dust every day. I am absolutely a believer in chlorine as sanitizer and algae killer, but it doesn't seem to be keeping up with the algae. Thinking of doing some Polyquat and have ordered it. I don't drain the pool ever (well once after it filled with furniture and tree limbs when the tornado missed us by about a mile), but polyquat is metal free so not scared of it, but is it likely to work? The chlorine is high enough to trust for safe, but I'd like it to look better!

Hi everyone. I’ve gotten comfortable testing my own water. My pool has been crystal clear since coming here and learning, beautiful even!

The past 4 days we’ve not had any rain where I am in Florida. However, before this stretch we had rain for 10 days straight! Bad thunderstorms daily. I don’t know if this has anything to do with my question or not. It’s also been very hot.

I notice my ph wants to stay around 7.8. It will rise above this after a few days of rain.

Whenever I lower it to 7.5, by the next day, rain or not, it’s back to 7.8. I know 7.8 isn’t an issue. I’m just wondering why it wants to be 7.8 and not stay at 7.5.

Today my readings are

FC: 6.5
CYA: 80
TA: 80
PH: 7.8

Hi, I got this pump for this pool. I need to find some kind of “sleeve” to attach the hose through my little pool wall. Any ideas what this is called or where to get it? Pic #1 is MY pool, pic #2 is new pump. Pic #3 is the connector which is being shown on A DIFFERENT POOL - not mine! The hoses that came with the pool attach just fine to new pump. I want to use a vacuum attachment but no way to connect it to new pump. Current hose has two parts - collar and inside pool. That’s it. Accessory which came with new pump (pic #4) needs something to attach to. I sure hope this makes sense! Thanks!

My pool repair guy replaced the suction valve this week. I tried turning handle 180 degrees to turn on the jets and no water flow just a couple of bubbles and then stopped. Here is a pic of my setup. Maybe handles are not in proper position? Jets were working prior to valve install. Thanks. Jay

Hi all!

I am replacing my booster pump motor. When connecting the red and black wires, do they wrap around the screw? or do I buy a connector like in the second pic? If so, which prong does it go onto since there are two for L1 and two for L2?

I had assumed I could follow the wiring from the old one but it's a mess and has more wires than this new one....I've got the red, black, green wires stripped, just not sure where to attach them?

I'm pressed for time today and had hoped this would be easier!
Thank you!
Marci

In case TLDR: What's causing my vacuum line to overflow when I attempt to prime/give 0 PSI/not enough suction for the Kreepy Krawly, and how do I fix it? Water level hasn't dropped abnormally so I doubt I have an underground leak of air. Pictures are attached



Just got back from 9 months overseas with the Army and while I was gone had roommate take care of basic "keep the pool from smelling" maintenance. Have a Pentair 520 filter and a pretty old pump that I've had since I bought the house 5 years ago, only a few issues.

Come back and pool, like I expected, isn't in great shape. No worries, I know what to do, or so I thought.

Initial step is shock it a couple times, and take manual vacuum to get out big debris, do that no issues. But skimmer is barely sucking water in, despite a PSI of like 30, and when I turn to vacuum mode, it completely dies and I get no suction. I decide to bite the bullet, go ahead and clean out filters, keep manually vacuum, and priming the pump over and over to try and increase suction, which gets temporary but not significant results. I even clean impeller and impeller isn't dirty.

Decide to call a pool company, and have them "fix" the pump and clean the filter, and it's going no issues and I think it's a miracle and I'm good to go. Except 1 hour later it is back to the same and they aren't responding to texts or calls, great. Another pool company says I have to do an air leak test, which is $450, and I probably need a new pool pump too, another large sum of money.

Today I spend all day working it, I put high pressure water through the vacuum line (when I turn Jandy handle to 3 o clock), through the skimmer line (handle at 9 o clock), and 50/50 line (12 o clock) through the vacuum itself, through the vacuum hole in pool, and through the skimmer itself, clean out the filter (I have suspicions the pool company cleaning wasn't great and went ahead and ordered new filters because they were dark green, at least they're light green now).

Where I'm at now, is skimmer and 50/50 mode prime well, and PSI is about 15-20, but the skimming still doesn't seem like it's fully sucking in water to get dirt/debris from surface. I have suction on the hole when I turn vacuum on, but when I prime on vacuum mode, the pump overflows, which seems to be indicates a blockage in the vacuum line from the pump to the filter? Tried hard to get a blockage of any kind out, but maybe it's something crazy blocking it.

To me the pump must be okay because skimming it works, and now I know the filter is (relatively) clean, and the skimmer line seems to not be an issue, so impeller must still be clean. So what's causing my vacuum line to overflow when I attempt to prime/give 0 PSI/not enough suction for the Kreepy Krawly, and how do I fix it?

I recently bought a house that came with a pool but no information about the equipment. It's all Pentair (EasyTouch control panel, cartridge filter, and pump), and there's a sticker on the panel that says the final inspection was done in October of 2013.

The pool has a light that I believe is a Pentair Intellibrite. I've attached a picture of a light that looks similar. The light is not attached to the control panel, but has a separate light switch. The light turns on, and by flipping the switch a couple of times it can cycle through colors or be made to stop on a color. I figured this much out through trial and error.

Recently the light has started flashing six times after I turn it on. Like, I'll flip it on, it'll turn off-on by itself six times in a row, and then it stays on. I have no idea what this means. I've found some old Intellibrite manuals that talk about flipping the switch to control a bunch of different modes, but the manuals make no mention of any off-on behavior like this that comes from the light. Does anyone know what's going on here?

Thanks!

I’ve struggled to get my 18 foot round above ground pool clear. I have finally gotten the ph down to 7.6. The chlorine is above 3. The alkalinity is over 250 ppm. Each site I go to has different vocabulary for the levels, tests, results, chemicals, etc. I downloaded the app and it asked what I wanted to track. An entire new set of acronyms appeared. Would it be so hard to unify the terminology? All I want is to figure out how to get my pool clear.

okay my frustrated rant is over.

I live in a rural area and have an hour drive to get anywhere to buy anything. I need definitive information about what I need. Can anyone here help me? Please.

Hi, I am a recent pool owner, built our first pool just 6 months ago. Since then, we hired a pool maintenance company, but just recently got rid of them because they weren't doing anything and were messing up the chemical balancing in our pool. I wanted to use them while I learned how to take care of the pool myself.

Current Problem: Algae growth (2nd time in 3 months) and high CYA/stabilizer

We have algae growing in our pool for the second time in the past 3 months. I wasn't sure why at first, I knew the pool chemistry was off, but wasn't sure where to start. I've now determined it's most likely due to the CYA/stabilizer being too high. I want to start fixing it, but not sure which steps I should take first or which order I should do them in, so any help would be appreciated. I've posted my questions and details about the pool below, as well current chemical levels.

Questions:
1. Should I partially drain and refill pool first to lower CYA levels, or shock pool first? or something else entirely?
2. What can I do to maintain my CYA levels and keep them from going high again in the future? The old pool maintenance company told me that chlorine pucks have stabilizer in them by default, but I would like to not have to do a partial drain every so often.
3. What can I do to prevent algae growth again in the future?

Pool Details and Chemical Levels

Pool Type: Plaster/Gunite/Concrete
Size: 21,000 gallons
Location: Tomball, TX
Water Temperature (roughly 80-95 degrees F in the summer)

Pool Chemical Levels as of 7/1/23
Free Chlorine: 0 ppm
pH: 8 (or higher)
Total Alkalinity: 200
Calcium Hardness: 80
CYA/Stabilizer: 80-90

Pentair Ichlor30: salt light flashing red. I cannot get diagnostic mode to work.
Taylor K2600C Salt test says 5400 last night 9pm, 5800 at 10am this morning. AquaChek Salt Salt System strip reads 5270 at 12p.
Had to add water 1&2 days ago. This is my 2nd summer with SWG FG pool. Last year was easy. Levels stayed good much of summer. I didn't have help from the pool guys this year and likely did startup incorrectly.
Current levels:
FC 0.5
CC 1.0
pH 7.8
TA 240
CH 250
CYA 30-50
Salt 5270
Water temp 87
Calculates CSI at 0.42
Water is cloudy

This is a typical situation in my spa. I will do a test. pH is 8.2, TA is 50. I will add some MA to bring the pH down to 7.4 but the TA falls to 20. So I add banking soda to get the TA back to 50 and the pH goes back above 8. Rinse and repeat.

How do I win this battle?

I haven’t used my water feature (sheer waterfalls) in the last 30 days. Does that mean that I have contaminated (water with algae) in the pipes since I haven’t used? And technically has 30 days (or more) of water that hasn’t moved or filtered??

The weekend, the youngest had a load of his friends over for a "pool party" (they're 11 years old), so I had bumped the FC up to 10-ish.
Later that day, a relative came with her 3-year-old to swim.
Her comment: "Oh, it's just so nice to swim in a pool without chlorine - everyone I know loads it up so it stinks like a public swimmingpool. Yours is much healthier for the little one".........

I didn't tell her that I probably had 8-10 times as much chlorine in our pool than those she refers to (the ones who go by "1-3 ppm max" and only uses pucks)

I am new here, been pool owner for two years now when I moved into this house.
12kgal Salt Water pool.
Having issues with my SWG so while doing some online research came across this forum and joined.

Hello

I cannot adjust the temperature up or down on my control panel. It simply does not respond and there are no error codes displayed. I have turned the breaker off waited five minutes and re-energized with no difference made.

is this a bad control panel?

any advice would be greatly appreciated

Hi, my name is Angie. I have a 20 for above ground pool. I live in Connecticu