I’m totally confused. Cloudy water and too much vocabulary

[Sewing]

I’ve struggled to get my 18 foot round above ground pool clear. I have finally gotten the ph down to 7.6. The chlorine is above 3. The alkalinity is over 250 ppm. Each site I go to has different vocabulary for the levels, tests, results, chemicals, etc. I downloaded the app and it asked what I wanted to track. An entire new set of acronyms appeared. Would it be so hard to unify the terminology? All I want is to figure out how to get my pool clear.

okay my frustrated rant is over.

I live in a rural area and have an hour drive to get anywhere to buy anything. I need definitive information about what I need. Can anyone here help me? Please.

 

[wireform]

Sewing,
Don't fret you've arrived at a good place but it's not magic. Here are set of linkes to follow but most importantly is a good test kit which is the best money you can spend. It'll save you from emptying your wallet in the pool store ever again.
Pool Care Basics
Test Kits Compared
SLAM Process
PoolMath
Overnight Chlorine Loss Test

 

[Sewing]

I have no idea what you just wrote or how that will help me clear my what, but thank you for replying.

 

[dBsooner]

Hello and welcome to TFP! The ONLY place you need to go for assistance. We will get you squared away! Take a deep breath, try to forget all the stuff you've been bombarded with in the past. We'll take this one step at a time and get you fixed up!

All I want is to figure out how to get my pool clear.

What is it now? Green? Just cloudy? Would you mind sharing some pictures of what you're battling?

You'll need a proper test kit, if you don't have one, instead of using guess strips or pool store tests. Have a look at getting one of these:
Test Kits Compared

If you have a test kit already, can you share which one and what your latest test results are?

Is it safe to assume you are on well water being in a "rural area"? Have you ever tested your well water for metals (iron)?

What chemicals have you added to your pool? When?

Then, when you feel up for it, have a look at Pool Care Basics and Pool School.

 

[wireform]

You need a good test kit for starters as test strips and pool store testing aren't accurate for the results you need to improve the water. The TF-100 is great, I'd order that now so you don't lose any more time. You need good chemistry to make it happen and we'll be more then happy to help. You need to be able to measure the levels needed to control your chemistry.

 

[dfwnoob]

Hi Sewing. Welcome to TFP, I'm very glad you've found us. Fortunately, you will find that across TFP and PoolMath, we are pretty consistent on acronyms and terminology. I would first start out with checking out the
Pool Care Basics. This is a good introduction to our methodology and will get you up to speed on the fundamental things you need to know. After that, peruse the rest of the Pool School articles.

You'll find that we do things differently than, well, anywhere else. Especially compared to the standard pool store methods. The core of our care plan is accurate testing and you do have some options: Either the Taylor K-2006C or the TFTestKits.net TF-100/TF-Pro. Any of these will work, but the TFTestKits models are a better deal. Can you let us know how you're currently testing your water?

We'll help you get this fixed. How does your water look right now?

 

[JJ_Tex]

The easy answer is that cloudy water typically means the onset of algae. Chlorine kills algae and you likely need more in your pool.

The longer answer is that this site gives specific advice but also needs precise readings to do so. In order to get those precise readings, you need a quality test kit that you do (pool stores are not reliable, nor are test strips).

 

[Sewing]

Thank you for your reply. I’ll check out the links.

Hi Sewing. Welcome to TFP, I'm very glad you've found us. Fortunately, you will find that across TFP and PoolMath, we are pretty consistent on acronyms and terminology. I would first start out with checking out the
Pool Care Basics. This is a good introduction to our methodology and will get you up to speed on the fundamental things you need to know. After that, peruse the rest of the Pool School articles.

You'll find that we do things differently than, well, anywhere else. Especially compared to the standard pool store methods. The core of our care plan is accurate testing and you do have some options: Either the Taylor K-2006C or the TFTestKits.net TF-100/TF-Pro. Any of these will work, but the TFTestKits models are a better deal. Can you let us know how you're currently testing your water?

We'll help you get this fixed. How does your water look right now?

Thank you. Several replyers asked for the same things so I’m posting them all here. I’ve Also attached some photos of the things I’ve added over the past several weeks as well as what the pool water looks like.

I tested today and the results are:
Chlorine 3
ph 7.6
total alkalinity 250
hardness about 300
cya about 100
The first 3 were with a Rainbow test kit which will be replaced with a TF 100 asap.
the last 2 were with a HTH 6 way test strip.

 

[wireform]

If nobody mentioned it i will. Do yourself a favor and order the speed stirr too as it'll make the testing more uniform and easier.

 

[Sewing]

Thank you. Please see my reply to dfwnoob.

 

[JJ_Tex]

Oh my. Are all of those products brand new? If so, I would take all of it back except for the swim shock as they are not needed and potentially harmful to your pool.

Use that money for a good test kit and add 1/3 of a bottle (5ppm) of the swim shock a day until the test kit arrives.

 

[PoolStored]

Let's make it really simple for you. The stabilizer and pucks add CYA (cyanuric acid to your pool). When CYA gets too high, you cannot sanitize your pool. That is likely why it is cloudy.

Take the pucks out of the pool.
Add 1/2 gallon of liquid chlorine to the pool PER DAY until the test kit arrives.
Add nothing else until the test kit arrives.

We don't trust strips, we trust testing.

 

[Sewing]

The easy answer is that cloudy water typically means the onset of algae. Chlorine kills algae and you likely need more in your pool.

The longer answer is that this site gives specific advice but also needs precise readings to do so. In order to get those precise readings, you need a quality test kit that you do (pool stores are not reliable, nor are test strips).

Oh my. Are all of those products brand new? If so, I would take all of it back except for the swim shock as they are not needed and potentially harmful to your pool.

Use that money for a good test kit and add 1/3 of a bottle (5ppm) of the swim shock a day until the test kit arrives.

No, not unopened except the ph down. We have sulfur in our water and it regularly needs ph down.

 

[JJ_Tex]

No, not unopened except the ph down. We have sulfur in our water and it regularly needs ph down.

Well shoot, thats a lot of stuff you do not need.

At least take the ph down back and use Muriatic Acid instead. pH down adds junk to your pool you do not want.

 

[wireform]

Check this link out, sooner or later you'll post yours.

 

[JJ_Tex]

To elaborate on the various products in your picture:

- Calcium Increaser - Only needed for plaster pools. Your calcium level is just fine.
- Chlorine Stabilizer (2 bags) - This adds stabilizer, also known at CYA. While your pool needs some CYA, your level is likely high and should be around 30-50. Do not use it anymore and expect to have to drain some water to get your levels in line.
- pH Down - Yes, it knocks down the pH but also adds sulfates to your water. Use Muriatic Acid instead to keep pH in line.
- Flocculant - Never use this, it will gum up your filter. If you have used it already and did not vacuum it out, you may need a new filter.
- Chlorinating Tablets - Convenient, but also adds stabilizer. The chlorine gets used up and the stabilizer/CYA stays behind.

 

[Newdude]

Check the Tf-pro at TFTESTKITS.NET. it's a TF-100 that includes a $48 stirring device and a really nice case.

Everything else about the TF100/ TFpro is the same and they function identically.

And Welcome!!!!

 

[dBsooner]

you may need a new filter.

Sand filter. Would only need to replace the sand. Unless something went catastrophically wrong. Otherwise I agree 100% with your post.

 

[Sewing]

Well shoot, thats a lot of stuff you do not need.

At least take the ph down back and use Muriatic Acid instead. pH down adds junk to your pool you do not want.

I can’t get Muriatic Acid without driving at least an hour each way and searching who knows where. I’ll see if I can find it more local. The store that had it last year didn’t have last time I checked.

 

[AUSpool]

I can’t get Muriatic Acid without driving at least an hour each way and searching who knows where. I’ll see if I can find it more local. The store that had it last year didn’t have last time I checked.

Hardware stores normally have it or can get it. It stores well and will easily last for several seasons but you’ll use it quicker then that.