I opened my pool 2 weeks ago and The filter has been running every day 10-16 hours, it was very green, i spent lots of chemicals including 10 lbs of shock , 7 x 3’ chlorine tabs, 2 bottles of algicide , 1 bottle of clarifier, 15 lbs of alkaline, all the levels are good the only thing thats not in normal range is phosphate which is a bit over the normal range, I still i see the algae in the pics below

1.Is this black algae?
2. How to kill it?

We just got a new metal frame above ground pool to replace our old Intex pool that was a pain to take up and put down every year. It was definitely a learning curve, but with a lot of help from lurking at the forums here and elsewhere I get a grip on using Chlorine in our old pool.

With the new pool, pool store talked me into Baqucil, which sounded very promising compared to Chlorine and l did the pH and metal control tonight. Was going to do the rest of the 3 steps in the morning (Since it says to wait for 8-12 hours after the metal control), however, the more read about the Baqucil the more feel like I made a mistake and should have just stuck with chlorine that actually knew how to use and doesn't seem to have as many long term problems (slime, clogging the filter, etc)

Am screwed now that I used the metal control? It says it's not compatible with chlorine systems but at least based on Amazon reviews people have used it. The only 2 things have added so far are pH down and one thing of the Baqucil metal control, no other products. I know once I start the Baqucil it's very difficult to convert, so I'm thinking about cutting my losses and just starting with Chlorine.

Hello TFP fam, have a situation that is driving me crazy, or maybe it was the 95-degree heat when I changed this out over the last 2. days. Need a sanity check from the experienced ones.

My old 1/2 hp Whisperflow that served me well seized up. Had an extra pump and appropriately sized filter and plumbed both in. I am currently not getting water/ not priming into the pot. What I have done so far:

1. New pipes all glued/sealed. Unions so I can pull pump off.
2. Reused check valve from old pump.
3. Union at the pump has liquid pipe seal into pump
4. All unions and pot o-rings have magic lube
5. Disconnected the helper pump for now.
6. Water half way up skimmer
7. Vacummend skimmer. Stuck a hose with a rag into inlet from the pot to flush, water is moving well on the inlet side.
8. Tried 'Filter' and 'Recirculate' on the valve, no dice.
9. With pot open and with. water hose in it, I can tell the pump is pulling in water into the filter. (no DE yet cause I can't get this to prime / run. Eventually I'll buy a VS)

The one thing I have not tried yet is to put more epoxy around the 3 - suction side 90degree PVC connectors to see if there is a leak.

Thoughts?

So.. just acquired above spa for free.. and its in really good condition.

Temp says 10deg c.. when turned on, although I'm sure it's more like 20 as I'm in Spain.. temp light flashing.

Flow is very good, filter is clean, so I'm thinking temp sensor or heater...

Any tips on testing either ?.. I'm good with a multimeter.. ir should I start elsewhere ?

Waking up this one, as I am hitting some of this as well..

I took pictures of the boxes and I don't see any letters that show a P or H, I do see Rev E.

Thanks

Moved from here.

How quickly will your CH rise? I live in hot sunny southern California and our house has hard water. My CH is 175 and my CSI value is -0.08. Im being told not to add anything to bring it up because it will rise on its own due to evaporation and before you know it it will be high. Thanks!

Hi everyone,

I have an 18x36 pool, vinyl liner over concrete wall, built about 45 years ago. The current liner failed after just a few years and I want to do a few things while we wait for a replacement. Regrettably we may lose the whole summer.

The first thing I want to do is replace the skimmer. It is very small, the Weir door is only about 5-1/2" wide. It doesn't do a great job cleaning the surface and the basket still fills quickly. My plan is to replace it with two Hayward SP10841 skimmers next to each other in the same spot, which is the downwind corner of the pool.

1. This should be a straightforward installation: chip out the concrete and recast with the face plate in the same plane as the old one?
2. Is the SP10841 the best choice for this application? The 1085 "wide mouth" has the exact same weir so I don't see how it can skim any better.
3. Right now I have a 1 HP pump that I think is moving about 60 GPM after accounting for head loss. In the future I might get a variable pump, but this liner is expensive and I'm focusing on what I need to do with it out. Is there any issue with putting in two skimmers?

The other thing is the lighting niche, which has a leaky conduit. It looks like my two options here are to replace it with a new niche, or scrap it and put in four or five nicheless lights along the long wall facing away from the house.

1. Any general advice as to niche or nicheless? I'm kind of ready to be done having a submerged 120V light, just for peace of mind. It sounds like the niche LEDs out there, even the name brands, aren't very reliable though.
2. Is SP0607U the proper niche to use for a vinyl-over-concrete pool? Just discard the locking ring and cast in place?
3. What's the proper 1 1/2" inlet to use for a nicheless light in vinyl-over-concrete pool? It needs a gasket but can't use a locking ring to press it into the liner. Is this what SP1408 is for, the four screws press the cover and gasket to the body?

Most of this stuff seems pretty straightforward for an experienced DIYer, except for the vinyl over concrete construction. This seems uncommon and parts are designed either for vinyl or concrete, but not both, and my usual technique of searching forums doesn't bring up a lot.

I'd love to hear any other observations or tips outside of my specific questions!

Thanks!

Dan

Dan

The little tab on the skimmer box that prevents the skimmer weir from opening into the pool is broken so the weir can swing both ways, into the pool and skimmer.

Its a tough spot to get to and I'm looking for suggestions on how to fix it, I was thinking of gluing a piece to prevent the swing (if possible, i didnt want to screw anything).

I wasnt sure if anyone else had this happen and what you did to fix this. Thanks!

Hello all, first time pool owner.. set up has a 15K gallon pool + SPA, IC20 SWCG and a 3 HP Pentair variable speed, also a heater. Set up is sweet, there is a control pad in the family room that can manage multiple things including pool / spa mode. My question --> the set up currently has a bypass loop with a valve that seems to partially (30% to 50%?) open. Plumbing seems to have an outer dia of about 2-1/4 inch.

My questions are:

1. I have heard such valves may or may not be needed on a variable speed set up - is this correct? Do I need the valve operating?
2. How do i determine the best setting for the valve? 30% open vs 70% vs fully open?

Thank you all in advance for your help!

Hi! Hope I am posting this in the right section. We are getting a Jandy Heater/Chiller (we are in Texas-pool will be bath water in July) . Any of my Texas peeps have one? I am struggling if it is worth it? I'm team chiller/heater, husband is not. He'll do it, but I'm having second thoughts.

Part 2: Pool company jumped ahead of the commitment and they dropped off the "pad" . It looks to be a 3 x 5 piece of Styrofoam covered with fiberglass? Bottom of pad is still exposed styrofoam so only the top and sides have the concrete looking fiberglass. Is this okay? Seems to me it won't stand the test of time?

- Thanks in advance!

I recently noticed a rusty spot on the wall of my SWP. It looks like it might be a rebar tie wire that was poking through the gunite and stucco from its construction 4 and a half years ago. Looking for any advice on what this might be from, and how easy/hard this would be to repair.

Has anyone put the FS lights into the Globrite Niche? Getting ready to order the 3rd Globrite since pool was installed in 2015, there has to be a better solution.

Has anyone installed this one? PoolTone™ Nicheless 1 1/2 inch (small face) Pool or Spa Light 15 - 150 Feet

Did id fit in the Globrite Niche?

I'd almost like to go with this one if I could get it to fit in the Globrite Niche and sit flush PoolTone™ Nicheless 1 1/2 inch (large face) Swimming Pool or Spa Light 15 - 150 Feet

I replaced my standard bulb with a color changing LED one from Amazon years ago. I have the standard light niche that everyone has (Pentair/Amerlite) and I used a new seal. No problem until about a week ago. The light turns on for maybe 10-15 seconds then the GFCI trips. I do have a TV plugged into this circuit too and it does not trip the GFCI. Does anyone have any idea as far as troubleshooting besides replacing the light and seal? Try a new GFCI?? I've seen GCFIs fail and trip over the slightest thing before, but I dont think LEDs draw a lot of power, especially compared to the TV that doesn't trip it.

I just found this site, and boy am I glad I did. I have an inground vinyl liner pool, it was unattended to for about 9 mo. Recently had a local company who was going to recover for me and then subsequently maintain the pool due to my work hours. A month in and a new pool pump (that I had to have) the pool is still green and filled with matter that I believe to be the result of multiple floccs. I have been vacuuming to waste and then letting settle and then vacuuming again. Been doing this for 72 hours. If I try to run the pump with the filter, I have to backwash every 20-30 minutes. I’ve gotten quite a bit of the dead algae matter, but pool is green now and can’t tell how much is down there. I have the pump on recirculate and have adjusted PH levels up to range, my CYA is at 0 and FC and TC are at 0. Any advice on next step?

I cant test it again because a party is starting and my wife is done with me messing with the pool, but I have this issue. Pool seems to be very low on chlorine every evening and to keep it in check I am supplementing with real chlorine. I really have only done this one time, and 7 people have swam in the pool today. BUT, checking everyting out it seams my salt is way high 4600 but the generator said 3000. Someone once said just use the generators estimate over your own, but something seams off here.

Inground plaster 15500 gallon pool built built 1993.
Intelliflo VF-3050 3HP, Pentair 420 Cartridge Filter installed 2007.
For the past month or so I see air bubbles emanating from the water inputs.
No leaks from the pump or filter dome, Air is not accumulating in the filter.
Is this a significant symptom? If so what are the potential implications?
My pool technician has a 2-3 week backlog.
Thanks

I've had Maytronics Dolphin pool cleaners for the past 6 years. There design is pretty simple and I can disassemble the whole unit in about 2 minutes. Problem is THEY DON'T SELL INDIVIDUAL PARTS. When a motor or motor bearing goes out the only solution is purchase a new motor assembly for $450. My new Dolphin Advantage Ultra which I purchased in April for $850 has stopped working. They are covering the repair under warranty. A lot of good that does me - by the time I get it back pool season will be over. Is there a brand of robotic pool cleaners that sells individual parts and is easy to repair yourself without sending it to the repair center. Looking at the Polaris NEO which is similar in design to the Dolphin robots. Any advice is appreciated.

Hi all,

I have been researching best ways to fill the gap between the concrete patio and the pavers of my in ground gunnite pool.

Previously, there was a black rubber-like sealant (photo attached) but it was aged and cracking/separating. I cut all of it out and tried using a self leveling sealant (photo attached - gray sealant).

My issue is, that this product I bought came in a tube and the area I have to seal is fairly wide in some areas (up to 3” between concrete and pavers in some areas). In addition, in some areas the concrete patio has dipped down a bit and is no longer the same height as the pavers.

I need a product that is weather resistant, easy to apply and mold to make the transitions smooth, has a mat finish vs the glossy look of the one I tried using, and is flexible for the change in temps.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions.

I have been battling this all summer now. Last year I changed out the sand in my filter and everything was fine. This year when I opened the pool I was getting sand in it. I initially thought a lateral was broken.

However, I noticed if I let the filter run 24x7 no sand. If I kept it off no sand. I really started to pay attention. When the filter first turns on I get a cloud of sand out of the return then it stops blowing sand.

How do I go about finding the problem and fixing it? Could it still be a lateral? I was not able to find anything in the search

About to change from in line chlorinator to SWG. Excited to make this change rather than dealing with 3” tabs. Pool is 6 months old. Getting it installed on Thursday. Any advice on adding salt now in preparation or should I wait until install? Current salt level is 1000 ppm and SWG calls for 3200 ppm.

Any advice is appreciated. Details of pool are in signature.

Another Arizonian, home built in 2004 with a ~20kish gallong pebbletec pool, in floor pop ups, hoping to gleen a few bits of knowledge from the community.

Hi everyone. What's the best digital pool water tester? I have color blindness. Strips don't work for me. My pool guy's MIA, pool's gone cloudy/greenish and I need to fix things on my own (and hopefully then fire the joker).

We have a vinyl pool (15-17k gallons or so), kidney shaped, four returns, 3' shallow, 5' deep end, salt water chlorine generator.

I have an IC40 that’s about 5 years old, recently stopped producing chlorine. Diagnostic mode shows the usage at 20%, water temp at 90. Unit doesn’t seem to be producing but the cell light is green and sanitizer lights are on. I changed the flow switch but the salt level and flow lights are off, they work because they’ll light up during the diagnostic.

Does it need replaced? I can’t find anything in the manual’s about no lights.

Hi! I'm hoping you all can help. Below is what is happening from the electrician's notes. We narrowed it down to the heat cool unit. All tight connections everywhere.
"According to his home monitoring system, lights in the main house and garage (a main panel and subpanel) were flickering along with a buzz sound. We identified it was correlating with pool chiller kicking on. Found when pool chiller/heater was engaging voltage was dropping from 236 volts to 211 phase to phase and 118 volts to 105 volts from ground to each phase. Customer needs to contact pool company to inspect issue with pool equipment."
Obviously something is wrong with the unit. I had a blown capacitor last year, and it was replaced. What is wild and completely stumping 3 electricians is that this cooler is on a subpanel off of the ADU's subpanel, which is a subpanel off of the main house's panel. All capacities are not even close to being maxed out, but somehow this cooler is on the 3rd panel at the end of the line, but affecting voltage drops all the way back to the main house.

Any idea on A) what could be broke in the cooler to be doing this? B) electrically how it makes sense for the voltage to be dropping and also affecting everything "upstream" to the main house?

Im going to call aquacal, but given its July, there is no telling on how long the wait will be to get it checked out for a warranty. And fwiw, it does this on heat or cool mode. I am not sure if its even cooling the water any now, but its so hot outside (90s), i'm not sure it would be cooling it anyways.

THANK YOU

High all for the first time in a few years I am having a lot of issues with my pool and need help.

I have a 24ft x 52” round above ground pool. With a Hayward EC50 DE filter and Hayward PowerFlo MATRIX Pool Pump 1.5HP.

To start this year I tried to use the cellulose filter media it was great for the first month and then my filter started short cycling with cloudy water. Fast forward to yesterday the filter was short cycling with no media in it so I shut it down and used a filter cleaner this morning(made the grid look brand new. I reconnected the filter and loaded with 10 scoops of DE(what I read is 5lbs). Added a skimmer sock and tested my water:

Hardness - 81ppm
PH - 7.8
Alkalinity - 106ppm
Cy acid - 40
Free chlorine - 0.2 ppm
Total chlorine - 3.2ppm

This was after using a chlorine free shock. I noticed the liner was slipperier than normal so I adjusted hardness(I know this isn’t a big deal for vinyl liners) up to 250ppm and then shocked with chlorine powder 4 hours later. The bag said 1 bag per 10,000 gallons so I added 2 bags since I had 0 free chlorine. It’s been 2 hours now and water is still cloudy I assume due to too much chlorine. But there is also white powder at the bottom of my pool. I am not sure if this is DE or excessive shock?

Also on a side not the filter shock I put on the skimmer I replaced as it was filled with crud. The second sock is now also filling with crude.

Also the filter pressure is 18psi which is pretty normal I am usually at 16psi.

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated before I go down too many rabbit wholes.

Thank you in advanced.

Picture of the 1st skimmer sock after 4 hours and the de filter grids before and after cleaning due to short filtering.

Admittedly, I'm a novice when it comes to owning a pool. Recently, I noticed the water flow from the pool pump is reduced and the filter pressure is high (30 psi). I have a standard Pentair system. Anticipating that the filters probably need cleaning, I went to open the air relief valve (with the pump off of course) as the first step and water came out and continued to come out even after draining 50 gallons. Is this an expected outcome with a pool that is situated higher than the pump? I watched a few videos about filter cleaning and in each video only air comes out of the air relief valve. I've only owned the house for less than a year so I don't know how it "usually" is.

Hi All - I'm not talking about fading the liner, I mean like can degrade it to the point it starts to leak or break. I've had some stubborn algae and I've been maintaining my FC at about 12 but shocking up to 20 and I've noticed in spots it seems almost 'scaly' like an alligator instead of smooth. My numbers are as follows

FC 12
CYA 40 (just increased to 60)
PH 7.5
TA 40
Salt 3700

Did a test for Chorline and PH. Chlorine was an orange color. The device only show shades of yellow. Does that mean I have too much clorine in the pool?

We bought a house with a buried in ground pool in the back. We talked with the former
Owner and there was nothing wrong with it, he just didn’t want the maintenance. He said he busted up the bottom concrete but not the sides, piping, or anything else.

Is this salvageable?? It was a huge and beautiful pool and we REALLY want to save it and bring it back to life if we can.

I went to log my pool chemical levels today and I was told I must upgrade to premium to do so. I noticed my renewal was processed July 1 so I am 100% up to date. On further inspection, my subscription seems to be for an old email that gets kept alive with Family Sharing. Since Apple would not combine my two user ids, I discontinued use of one but share its subscriptions with the family. In any case, through yesterday morning, my family share of this subscription worked. Now it does not.