We just purchased a home with an older in ground pool. The pool is around 18k, is plaster, and has an adjacent spa (see the photo). Currently there is a Pentair WhisperFlo pump, Pentair FNSP 48 filter, Mini Max NT 400 heater (inoperable), an Eco Matic ESC 36 salt generator (also inoperable), a spa air blower, three water features on the back wall (also inoperable), and an Intermatic timer (see photo). The timer, filter, and pump are working but who knows for how long.

We plan on replacing the heater and SWG. I thought since we are doing that, maybe it would be a good idea to update the plumbing as well, to maximize efficiency. (The brick behind the raised bond beam in the back is cracked and will need to be replaced. We are exploring removing that raised bond beam in the back, to enhance the view and make the back level with the patio, but that may be more appropriate for another thread). I am looking for suggestions on not only what components we should purchase but also if a change in the layout of the plumbing would help with space and water flow. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you.

Good morning!

Pool:
13,500 Fiberglass
Chlorine pool with Hayward Chlorine Generator (more on this later)

Specs from pool store test:
FC: 6.5
TC: 6.5
CYA: 84 (more on this later)
PH: 7.7
TA: 106
CH: 193
Phosphate: 0
TDS: 1,000

-We were dealing with what I thought was Mustard Algae early in the season, we tried multiple rounds of super shock and it continued to return.

- We then, before coming here, added Yellow-out, which removed the Algae but flipped the pool to Bromine...so we did a total water swap 2 weeks ago without draining, using the method described here. The water was the best it had ever been.

-We are now seeing a dark green, easy to brush algae build-up on the bottom of the splash pool and the main pool. We have tried multiple rounds of shock, as well as rigorous vacuuming and it doesn't seem to go away. The water is clear. We do run a chlorinator, but with the CYA levels already at 84 after the recent water swap, we are going to begin using the SLAM method with liquid chlorine and only relying on the chlorinator when we travel. We test frequently with FAS-DPD kit.

So here are the a few questions and I'm open to thoughts:

1. Is the algae green or yellow?
2. Is the CYA level preventing proper sanitization?
3. Should I drain some water and refill to get the CYA down before beginning liquid bleach?
4. I am trying to avoid putting anything other than Chlorine/Muriatic Acid/Baking Soda/Water in the pool, but am open to other treatment items if you have a suggestion.

Thank you in advance!

pentair IC 40 2 years Old
Lights all on. Looks perfect.
However. Not producing Chlorine.
All pool chemicals are perfect. No algae in water. It is clear. Cell is clean. I turned off. Reset. Everything.
What is wrong?

This crazy rain we are having is messing up my pool levels! I have the Taylor 2006 test kit-

Tested cya myself and could still see the dot at 30, so took to pool store for a test-

Chlorine level -8
CYA- 20
pH 7.6

I added one gallon of Liquid CYA. I’d like to SLAM my pool to being to shock level tonight if possible.

How quickly after adding liquid CYA can we test for accurate levels? I’m anticipating the gallon to raise it to about 45.

If my SLAM is 16, how many gallons of chlorine would you add?
How long after adding the cya do I need to wait before shocking?

My kids have hardly used the pool and we are hoping to swim tmrw- so don’t want to add too much chlorine!

Thanks

Hey Y'all,

Just got our first pool up and running a week or so ago. Have the TF-Pro test kit. Did some tests and have a few questions....
PH-7.5
FC-2.5
CC-0-.5
TA-70
CYA-about 40

The chlorine side of the PH test block is just there to show presence of chlorine, correct? The directions say this test should be done daily. Reading on this site it seems that you should be doing the FAS\DPD test for chlorine daily to get an accurate reading. Does PH need to be tested everyday? And if doing the FAS/DPD test everyday it seems the chlorine side of the test block is useless.

CYA test. Is it best to do this with a light underneath the tube? Or just fill the tube up, and when the dot disappears call it good? This test seems a bit tricky, especially with my bad eyes!

Also, if I understand correctly, anytime the test is supposed to change color, I need to add a drop even if it's barely noticeable and faint? So faint I wonder if I'm imagining it.

As for my test results, any recommendations? I'm going to add 3 cups of 10% CL to bring my FC up to 5, according to pool math based on the CYA level.

Thanks again for everyone's help! This site has been great for a newb!

Hello everyone! I am from Fergus, Ontario, . We have an 8 year on ground salt water pool. Generally we have no problems with that are not Hayward related. A bit of algae? Copper? Issues this year but we are working on resolving it.

I know it will be a few months, however, does anyone have one of these pools that lives in a colder climate North Central Michigan? Texas Splash very kindly gave me this link Closing (Winterizing) Your Above Ground Pool which I have read. We are older and do not look forward to putting this pool up and taking it down every year . Thank you .

I want to order some of the standard so I can see what I am supposed to call 50. The only 7065 I have found comes in 16 Oz bottles. Is there somewhere I can buy smaller quantities? Oh yeah I'm using the taylor 2006 mixing bottle.

Hi
I have a 27ft round radiant pool. I noticed a small amount of green algae on the wall near my steps and on one step. So, I shocked the pool using a 5 cups of chlorine 70%. The water turned cloudy ! It is now 38hrs later and there is still a hint of cloudy water. All my numbers are in range , stabilizer is off a touch. Any ideas , clarifiers? Should I shock again with a Super chlorinate?
Thanks B

Hello! I’m from Tennessee and have a new 27 ft above ground pool. We are active grandparents and hope to have this pool a long time for the kiddos. We have owned a pool before but it’s been about a decade. I’m looking forward to the advice and tips from real people!

I have an Easy Touch 4 control panel. I want to replace the faulty SpaSide 4-button controller with either a Pentair #520546 (4-button) or #520547 (8-button). I assume that both controllers will work with my system. If I opt for the 8-button controller, which other pool functions can I add? Sorry if this sounds remedial. Thanks.

Hello - Just had our new pool filled yesterday. We are new to pools in general, so of course every little thing catches our eye.

Plaster is Wet Edge Luna Quartz Bermuda.

This afternoon we noticed a dozen or so "rust" spots on various horizontal surfaces, mostly bench and steps. I don't believe they were present prior to water. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

The eyeball at my return jet is stuck. I want to change its direction but won’t budge it’s stuck to the return. Anyone had this happen? Anyway to losses without taking the whole return jet and hose apart?

System is functioning properly but I have air in my lines. What can I do to get rid of this?

Hi, we need help. We opened the pool and we had a hole in our cover, the pool was disgusting. We got all the debris we could see and shocked it. It turned blue but very cloudy. After a week or so it would green again . We used the green to blue shock treatment. It just seemed to bring algae to the top of the pool to sit. Can’t skim it out because it breaks up and goes through the skimmer net. We vacuumed the bottom although we can’t see it… we just guessed. Now it’s green again with all this gunk on top…. Please help

Hello relative newbie here when it comes to pool ownership in general.
Decided to change my filter sand this year, and when purchasing more, the pool store employee was surprised by how little I wanted based on my pool size.
I currently have an above ground Intex Ultra Xtra 26' × 52" so ~15k gallons.
The pump and filter combo we have is the Intex sf70110-2. .5HP and a 14inch sand filter.

I am having my water routinely tested and keeping the levels in check, but it feels like filter is getting the job done. Am I undersized for the size of my pool?
What specs should I be looking at for these pool dimensions?

Hi All,
New the forum, lots of great resources. I seeking some insight on setting up the iAqualink 3.0 (iQ30) controller. Whenever I try to add the controller, I get the message: "Enter a Valid Serial".

I've read all related posts I can find and can't solve. This is entirely new control setup. I had no controller installed prior, it was all manual, so I just installed both the Aqualink RS system specified below as well as the iQ30.
I've confirmed I have a network & Internet connection. I've connected the iQ30 both through WiFi and then Wired to eliminate connectivity questions. In both cases I get an IP address on my network and can ping the unit. All 3 connectivity lights on the iQ30 are lit up (PWR, LAN, WEB). I've also done a reset of the iQ30 and removed and added it to the network. I've also tried adding with the unit in every mode (Auto, Service, Timeout). The 4 wire connection to the panel is good and I've disconnected and reconnected to be sure. I continually get "Enter a Valid Serial" in all cases.

Any suggestions? I'm also wondering if it's possible the revision of the RS4 controller I received is not compatible with the Aqualink 3.0/iQ30? I see in the installation manual it states:
" For use with AquaLink® RS for Systems with Rev R Firmware or later For use with PDA for Systems with 6.0 Firmware or later". I'm including a picture of my board (which shows "RevT.2G") but I am not certain how to confirm the firmware compatibility.
Here's more info on my setup:
Equipment Package: I purchased a new Jandy bundle & controller kit form eBay (.. I know). Here is the link:
JANDY IQ904PS POOL/SPA BUNDLE RSPS4 4 RELAY IAQUALINK AquaLink System Includes:
Aqualink RS 4 system for Pool and Spa Combinations

Thank you in advance for any insights. Below is the control board on my RS4.

I have an approximate 14k gallon Gunite pool filtered by a Hayward SP3210X152BH Pump driven by a Century 1081 Dual Speed Motor SP3210Z2ME. The pool was installed 3 years ago and everything was working great until Friday morning on July 14th. The pump was found not running, but normally runs in low speed 16 hours a day. The motor is started at high speed of 3 minutes to prime and get pump to speed before switching to low speed.

The problem now is when the motor is started on high speed it only gets about 10 seconds in until it shuts off. I have done all the normal troubleshooting, but the facts are I can hear the thermal protection contact click on the back of the motor and the motor is hot and emits some burning smell. I hooked a clamp on ammeter to the high speed wire and measured a current between 21 and 19.5 amps which it normally runs < 10 amps. I got more of a surprise when I switched it over to the low speed wire and measured 24 amps which it normally runs < 2 amps. I did have to cheat the controller 3 min timer to get the low speed reading by only letting it run high for a few seconds before going to low so that could affect it, but I believe it was up to speed.

For troubleshooting I started by removing both run and start capacitors and testing them with an LC meter. All check out within tolerance and there is no visible bulging or leaking of fluid. I took the motor off the pump housing and removed the diffuser and verified there is nothing clogging the impeller. I cleaned the centrifugal switch on the back of the motor and even took a video of it breaking contact when at speed with my camera to verify it is working right. I also cleaned the main filter for good measure even though the pressure has not changed from its typical 10 psi.

I am not sure what to do at this point. I am afraid the only possibility left might be that the enamel insulation on some of the windings may have melted together resulting in my motor being less of an induction motor and more of a heater at this point.

Hello everyone! I am new here and have been reading the site, we purchased our TF-100 test kit, and I feel like I've already learned a lot but have a lot more to learn, I am sure of that.

Our installation was on Friday. It's a semi-inground pool with a vinyl liner. We finally got it filled this morning and turned on the pump. We have the Frog System (we did not purchase this separately, it came with the package apparently. I have tested the water and the only surprise was super high alkalinity (330). Our pH was pretty good at 7.5. I am continually testing the FC to get it into range, as well as the CYA (both were initially at 0).

My question is, how long should I run the pump in the next 24 hours, knowing that the Frog System is adding chlorine as the pump runs?

Any recommendations are welcome! Our city permit inspection is on Tuesday and we are hoping to jump in as soon as work is over that day!

Hello! Having issues with FC in my IG pool. Pool looks clear - can see all the way to the bottom; no visible signs of algae or other debris. SWG not showing any errors (it is set to 80%, shows "Generating Sanitizer", and Salt Readout is 3100). My pump runs 24 hours and is programmed to run 3450 RPM 6a-6p; 1800 RPM 6p-6a.

My tested levels are as follows:

FC: 0.2
CC: 1.0
pH: 7.4
TA: 55
CH: 190
CYA: 60
SALT: 3400 (as tested yesterday; calibrated SWG yesterday evening to 3400, this morning shows 3100)

Yesterday evening I added 1 lb of "Burnout 3" (leftover from pool store) and FC reading a few hours after was ~5.0. This morning, it was closer to 3.0. I have put 2 Chlorine pucks in the skimmer (since my CYA is on the lower end of acceptable level).

My hunch is that I have a bad Salt Cell. It's Hayward Goldline TurboCell TCELL940 #4E19161 - 201435. I opened it up a couple of weeks ago to see if it needs cleaning but there was no build up).

Any suggestions on what I should do?

I have a common 6x12 skimmer and a skimmer basket(maybe 8in around). Its an above ground 18ft pool. The skimmer has a basket that you can pull out and clean. When I vacuum, i used a skimmer plate with a 90degree hose connector and thats that. Attaching the hose to this connection while maintaining prime is a tricky, two handed process that seems to be always be almost above the water. It sounds like its sucking a little air. How do you make this connection easier without the risk of sucking air?

The first 2 pictures are of the new plaster May 28. The last 4 pictures are of the stained plaster yesterday. I followed the TFP new plaster start-up as well as I could. I have a helper who works every other week. I have tried to get him to read and follow directions but he seems immune. I turned the pools over to him July 3rd and the spa was still bright blue with good chemistry. It's a bromine spa. I assume the staining is copper from the heater.
FC 7
pH 7.6
TA 80
I took back over on July 10 and noticed immediately the staining in the spa. I tried to test the chemistry but got strange results.
FC 10
pH purple
TA I added 2 drops of 7 and started adding 8, the sample turned red, I added 2 drops of 9 and it got brighter red and stopped
I used pool math and added half of the baking soda recommended. I waited a few hours and tested pH again. Still purple. I used pool math and added half the recommended dray acid. I repeated this process till I got the TA and pH back to 80 and 7.6.
So I have the spa back in shape chemistry wise but it looks like heck.

Hello. I have a Hayward Heat Master HML110TA heat pump pool heater installed in 2011. A few weeks ago I noticed the breaker was tripping. I replaced the breaker for a 60A GFI after noticing we had put a 40A breaker when first installed. Same behavior: heater fan turns on fine but after a 4-5 min delay when it attempts to heat it either trips the breaker immediately or after a few minutes. Hayward indicated it is likely the compressor. Should I call a service rep to check out compressor and capacitors or kind of futile given its age? Any ideas on what to check?

We recently replaced the heater on our 22,000 gal pool. When they removed some piping, it appeared to have some green slime that looked like algae. I did not see it, the spouse did. Didn't keep a pipe, so I can't comment.

The pool water is well balanced and we deal with an occasional algae bloom over the years. Can algae build up in the water pipes? If so, how do you test for it? How do you treat it?

Hello I just installed a Intex 18 x 48 Prism pool, I upgraded to the Intex 3000 GPH Sand filter with the 15,000 gallon Chlorine generator . I Am looking at the Hayward HP50AEE heat pump, the pool store says my Intex pump wont even have enough flow to use the heat pump, however based on the flow stats my Filter flows well above the Maximum recommended for the Heat pump... Anyways before I drop $3000 CDN to install this Heat pump I'd like a more educated opinion , thank you in advance

I just set up an Intex 16x32 Ultra. I thought that it was supposed to be a saltwater system but the pump and filter that came with my pool (Model SF70110-2) does not appear to have SWG capability. Is it possible to upgrade this system to have SWG or do I have to buy a whole new pump and filter?

Grand Risings Poolers!, We're Lynn & Paul. We're backyard Oasis 🏝🏖 Tiki Bar owners. Looking forward to interacting together. Stay blessed.

So up until this morning, my beach jets/bubblers were powered by a single speed Jandy pump. This whole time, I thought it was a 1HP pump, but I'm beginning to suspect the motor/guts were swapped out ages ago by a 2HP or 2.5HP version reason being (the previous service tech guy used to cannibalize things like that sometimes)... I just replaced that pump with a 3HP Pentair VSP (011056) today, and when the new Pentair 3HP pump is running he 2750 rpm, the beach jets/bubblers have the same flow/height as the old "1 HP" pump. That doesn't seem right to me, which is why I'm thinking the old pump wasn't 1HP, maybe the motor was swapped out to a 2HP or 2.5HP without me even knowing .

If I set the new Pentair 3HP pump to run at 3450rpm, the beach bubblers do go "slightly" higher than the old Jandy "1.0HP" pump, but not by much. I just can't believe a 3HP Pentair pump barely outflows a 1HP -13-year old Jandy pump.

Thoughts? Likely the 1HP pump wasn't a 1HP pump afterall? or am I missing something here (suction side and output side valves are all the same settings).

Thanks.

Hi all,
I've read the basics but am still a bit confused as to how to get started. I had a guy come to clean my indoor pool and he said that literally everything about the water is off.

What should I start with? Here's a pic of the pool. It's about 30ft by 15ft, 4ft deep in the shallow end and 8ft in the deep end.

Thank you!!

Greetings everyone!
I believe my pool is leaking from where the return jets enter the pool. It is a fiberglass pool. I have attached a couple pics from the eyeball assembly and have a few questions. My concern is there looks to be some separation from the faceplate and the pool wall. Is there supposed to be a gasket sandwiched between there that has deteriorated? Also if I understand correctly, I can use a spanner type wrench to remove the inner ring but that will only allow me to remove the eyeball, is that correct? How would I go about removing or fixing the faceplate to sit flush against the pool wall?

Thanks in advance for your time!