Hello everyone,

After finally getting my pool fixed and up and running I am at the point i can start tweaking pump settings. I have a Hayward Max Flo VS 500 1.65 THP on 2 inch piping pumping on a 25000 gallon pool (Main drain is dead only have 2 skimmers, pool size 36 by 16 rectangle). The pool has a T9 cell Hayward SWG at 60%. DE filter is DE4820 with current pressure at 7 psi. Currently the pump has been running 24/7 at 2850 RPM (530 watts), i imagine the electric bill is going to bite me in the butt in a few weeks. The kid at the pool store told me to run it 8 hours a day or all night if i add chemicals. What is your recommendation, how long should i run the pump? I am aware if the pump is not running 24/7 the SWG may need to be adjusted on the percentage of Chlorine production but given that TC went from 3.19 to 7.8 in 96 hours maybe i can leave it at 60%)

Not sure if relevant to this post but here are the latest AccuBlue test results (i know they are not the best but i dont have a TF-100 Salt kit yet):
FC 7.8
TC 7.8
pH 7.5
TA 78
CH 163
CYA 41
Iron 0.1
Copper 0.3
Phos 208
Salt 2900 (My hayward panel says 3400)

Hello Folks! Need some help!

I have a Jandy Aqualink RS with a PDA-P4; 3.0 firmware on all.

Last week we noticed the pool was not running its program from 7pm to 7am for the filter pump on the pool. Turned the PDA on and it read 6pm in 2006 - clearly the time was reset. Upon further inspection, all the programs had been reset as well. I can set the time no problem now, but when I try to create a new program for any feature, the system crashes, the filter pump will turn off if I had it on, and when the PDA comes back up, it reads 2006 again.

I am at a loss, thoughts?

The week of the 6th, I have been given the opportunity to meet with several mid-level/senior management as well as coordinator types from Pentair Pool Products who are directly involved with IntelliCenter. We're going to meet up here at my home in the Phoenix area.

These are folks that I have had many discussions with via email and VTC's in the past. I view this face-to-face meet as a golden opportunity to discuss everything "IntelliCenter" with the people who can make a difference.

I have my list of items that I believe are key points to discuss, however my priorities may not coincide with yours. That said, if you have a topic that you would like me to bring up on your behalf, I would be more than happy to do so. This includes not only the OCP and firmware but user interfaces like the mobile apps, web-client, Amazon Alexa and Apple Watch, as well as interfacing with pumps, heaters, valve actuators, IntelliChlor, IntellipH, IntelliChem and remotes. The good, the bad and the ugly.

Please be specific with regards to your topic. And more importantly, please keep it constructive. Throwing "rocks" at these folks will get us nowhere.

Thanks...
r.

I just cleaned the cell, tried to replace it with my old cell and even bought a new cable to connect the cell. Still after turning it on, a few minutes later I either get a low amps or a check/clean cell error.

When I check the voltage/current it is always reading 32V and between 2.1/3.5A. Setting is level 1 (couldn’t figure out how to change)

Any ideas what the issue could be? Could be two bad cells I suppose.

- I purchased the LevelSmart Online version. I chose this version, which cost several hundred dollars more than the standard version, because it enables you to see statistics on amount of water added, time added, level of pool, etc right from your phone (app).

- Ordered it directly from the Kona Labs website. Ryan, the co-owner, answered all my questions presale.

- Installed it in April per the instructions. Downloaded the app. And nonsense data started to pour in. Data that makes no sense.

- Contacted Ryan. Said he would check into it. Didn’t hear back for several days. Emailed him several times. Finally called me back 2 or 3 days later. Said he is still checking into it. Another week goes by. More emails that don’t get answered or are answered several days to weeks late. It’s several weeks later at this point and i’m done with having a $1,000+ brick that doesn't work and customer service that doesn’t respond, so I file a chargeback with my credit card company.

- Suddenly they’re responding, transferring me to his other co-owner Richard who knows more of the tech stuff behind the scenes. Finally gets it fixed.

- Long story short, we finally got the product working, and it works really well now. The pool stays at the exact same height every single day without me having to get the hose out.

Conclusion: My experience is that the product works very well, once it’s properly adjusted and set up, but if you purchase this device, purchase it knowing that you will receive next to ZERO customer service.

Out of the dozen or so times I called post-purchase, they answered the phone 0 times. Rang and rang and rang, then finally went to voicemail. About half of the time they called back (several days later) and the other half went ignored. Out of the dozen or so emails, same deal, about half get answered, and when they do, it’s typically many days (or weeks) later.

I'm Beth and my husband and I live in Marshall, NC. We put in a semi above ground pool last year. It is wonderful!!

Hi, I just posted, and I am looking for others feedback on this issue.
Thanks

Good evening all and hope all is well with everyone. I am here looking for some advise on repairing a few pool coping pavers that have come loose. I have brick coping pavers that surround the kidney shaped pool and need to re-bed them. Any advice on what type of material to reattach would be great and is the material available at local hardware or should I go to a stone and tile shop. Thank you in advance for the assistance.

Ryan

Why is my aiper automatic vacuum blinking red and blue?

This happened a few months ago but I figure better late never!

Purchased from: The Pool Factory
Model: Saltwater Aurora
Material: 100% Resin (except for the stainless steel screws/plate)
Size: 21 ft

I’ll start with tearing out the old pool. It was pretty solid and lasted over 15 years but rust was starting to get to it.

We probably could have gotten a few more seasons out of it but we’re building a deck that goes around the entire pool and didn’t want to try to retrofit a new pool into a wrap around deck in a few years.

Chose the Saltwater Aurora because it’s 100% resin and those don’t rust. We also installed a saltwater generator which is working flawlessly.

I am pretty diligent about keeping my pool clean, brushed, vacuumed, and balanced…but I still found what I believe are beetle larvae at the bottom of my shallow end where the pool jets are today (both sides but more so on the side closer to grass). I typically have a few beetles in the skimmer every morning and some small gnat like bugs that I clean out. I think what I found today are beetle larvae based on a Google image search, I’ve since cleaned them out but they looked like very small and short worms (they are not mosquito larvae). Is there anything else I can do to prevent these? I run the pump 24/7 (1725 for 22 hours and then 2 1-hour periods at 2450). I have a SWG, my tests today were FC 3.2, CC 0, Alk 60, Ph 7.6, and calcium 230. The pool temp is 75 degrees. Yesterday it was 90 degrees but today it’s back to high 70s. It has been raining quite a bit. Thank you!

Hello,

So I'm new to managing my pool chemicals. Pool (12x24) is almost 3 months old and has a saltwater generator, and has a screened enclosure. First two months the pool contractor took care of maintenance and I recently took over. I just got through a couple of days of heavy rain and thought we needed to check chemicals so I check on the reagent Chlorox test kit until my Taylor K2006 SALT arrives. Added 5 drops of reagent and chlorine side turns very bright yellow so thought it was high based on that.

I took a sample to Pinch a Penny and got the following readings:
Total Chlorine: 0
Free Chlorine: 0
Combined Chlorine: 0
PH: 8.0
Acid Demand: 4 drops
Alkalinity: 80
Calcium Hardness: 500
Stabilizer: 30
Salt: 2800

They told me to add some muriatic acid (4 cups), stabilizer (2 pounds), and put my saltwater chlorine generator on boost mode and keep it running to see if chlorine goes up. I did all of those things.

I also bought the strips and on those ones it also reads 0 or close to 0 chlorine readings. Anybody have any idea what could be causing this discrepancy or am I doing something wrong? I thought the saltwater generator was used to keep chlorine levels at acceptable ranges. I had it at 50% as recommended by the pool builder is it not working? I'm just worried with this whole situation. Is this normal or does this happen a lot after heavy rain? The pool looks really good to be honest I don't understand could something be wrong?

I have the same cell (FSOFT1400) throwing off codes 125 and 194. What electrical checks can I do to see if the cell is a problem?

Moved from here.

Hello everyone - I have a 10 by 5 metre pool and the pool pump normally operates at about 10PSI but after backwashing and rinsing last week it's dropped to 5PSI - I've re-backwashed and re-rinsed and checked the skimmers and the filter and it all looks OK but the low pressure persists. I've called out the pool people to come and look but I don't know when they might turn up (it might be a week) and I wanted to check given the very hot weather we're having if it's bad for the pump to run 24 hours at that low pressure (my return flow rate seems normal). Many thanks for your help!

Hello, I've noticed when my pump has been off for a few hours it seems to self-prime when starting up. I bleed off the air on the cartridge filter housing, but the air slowly gets back into the system after an hour or so. I've also noticed very small bubbles coming out of one of the return jets while the pump is running. I replaced the pump lid gasket but that didn't help. I'm thinking there's a very small leak somewhere on the suction side of the pump but not sure how to track that down, any suggestions would be appreciated. I don't see any water leaks. Also, when the pump shuts off it makes a little squeak noise, not sure if that's related.
Thanks, Brett

Hello,
I received my Crystal Pure 60000 SWG system today. I have attached a picture of my plumbing. Is the check valve really needed? Can I get rid of it and install the cell on that line? Thank you.

Hello,
I purchased
Automatic Suction Vacuum-generic Climb Wall Pool Cleaner Sweeper In-Ground Suction Side + Hose Set XtremepowerUS and have had it situated where it's attached to skimmer for the past 2 years.

I never realized, but my main drain is not suctioning. Reason I realized this is due to myself doing the pool work where shock granules on the bottom of the pool appears to be sitting on the ground.

So when I attach sweeper to the skimmer, I am afraid my only flow to my pool is now being relegated to the sweeper flow.

I did a little bit of research on main pool on and off, but my house doesn't have such a thing and it maybe one that feeds off the skimmer (?) but even when the sweeper is not attached to skimmer, I still see granules stuck on the bottom

So I am hoping you can help me to find if the "white" pipe that is on the side of the pool wall that has some knob is to be used for sweeper suction (attached picture)

thank you so much

Been in the house for 20 years, and periodically have had to patch up small cracks around the skimmers as they pull away from the gunite, so I know I have a settling problem. But this time, I keep leaking from somewhere else even after repair

I did some pressure testing today by closing off one or the other drain at the bottom of each skimmer, and I am able to draw air into the system from Below one of my skimmers, so I know the pipe running from that skimmer to the pump must have a crack.

This is consistent with my understanding of how this usually goes, as the ground settles, but skimmer is largely fixed to the pool, the pipe is pulled away and cracks, almost always very near the skimmer.

Will this require removal of my concrete deck in that area for Access and repair? Is there such a thing as an internal patch, especially if on fiber optic inspection there is not significant pipe displacement across the crack, ie, it is still largely planar?

Or is that wish for a minimalist repair just a "pipe" dream?

Hello everyone, I have a question regarding my auto leveler. Moved to AZ just in time for the hottest July ever. And of course it presents challenges for a new pool owner such as myself. Here is my question:
With temps over 110 for 24 days and counting my pool auto leveler doesn't keep up, my pool is down about 3/4". The question is should I add pool water via hose, bring it back up to it's normal level?
Water is still about 1/3 of the way above the skimmer, but concerned if it goes any lower it will affect my equipment.
No shade until later in the day, so the sun is on the pool from 6am till 6pm each day.
I have managed to keep all my chemicals in balance and the pool looks great, just concerned about fighting evaporation with this heat.

Thoughts?

It's a 15,000 gallon, pebbletech pool with Pentair SWG.

Thank you, look forward to hearing the group's thoughts.

Hi all, I’ve been a TFP lurker for several months and now a first time poster. I really enjoy the forum discussions and have learned a tremendous amount before deciding to install a pool.

Now the reason for this post. We are getting a fiberglass pool installed over what used to be gunite pool. The previous homeowner had a leak in the gunite pool and instead of pursuing repair, decided to punch holes in the bottom, cave in the sides and fill with dirt. Then gunite pool is unsalvageable, so I am looking to remove the pool to install the fiberglass pool in the same area. The pool builder sent a quote for pool removal that includes removing only portions of the gunite pool that interfere with new installation.

My question is should the pool builder remove the entire pool or is it sufficient to just remove enough to allow for the new pool? Do you for see any problems with doing either?

Thanks!

Hi there. I'm a small pool owner (intex Easy Set, 8x24) who just wants a clean pool for his kids to splash around in.
Located in Des Moines, Iowa.

Hi all,
I know the best way to measure water is with a test kit but with 2 small toddlers and a busy work life I’m unable to measure as often as I’d like. Local pool companies charge a ton and often don’t balance chemicals correctly, while Leslie’s is just a pain and they always talk me into more products I don’t need. So, I’m looking into smart pool monitors. Has anyone had experience with a smart pool water monitor? I’m thinking of getting the Water Guru Sense 2 or the Crystal Water Monitor. Any suggestions, advice, or other monitors I should look at?

I removed my light to clean behind it (algae). Now I can't get it back in. Its been sitting on the side of my pool for 2 months now. I am having trouble trying to keep my body from moving while holding the light down (it wants to float up) AND aligning the screw all at the same time. Any tips to make this easier? Is there anything that I can attach here to make this easier? Maybe make it a magnetic install?

Thanks in advance for the help. Any feedback is appreciated. Ive changed the flute and a few misc other parts. No change. Immediate click to eo6 + sfs. Heater didn’t even try to turn over.

Is the pool calculator app still working, or has it been replaced by Poo Math?
thanks

I'm trying to clean out some brown silt (possibly dirt) that's on the bottom of my pool.
I'm able to keep the water clear with shock and/or chlorine, algaecide, etc. but I keep getting very fine brown particulates on the bottom of the pool. After a few minutes of me and my kids splashing around the silt gets churned up and makes the water kind of cloudy.
Using an 8 foot x 24 inch Intex Easy Set pool with a dual inlet connected to an Intex C1000 filtration pump.
Can I connect a vaccum to one of the inlets so suck that silt out of the pool?
Any recommendations on getting rid of this stuff would be appreciated.
Thanks

Good morning, everyone. I've read a ton on these forums over the years and figured I'd finally become a member to ask the all knowledgeable forum some questions. Glad to be here and can hopefully be a help to some as well.

Too follow up on my post from Friday where I mistakenly added salt before realizing that I was getting an erroneous reading from my AquaRite due to cell failure. We have been draining and refilling the pool since Friday. Getting the water down to the tile line, refilling and then doing it again via siphoning. I've been able to get the level from 5600 to 4400 ppm.
At what point can we install the new cell (same size as the old one) to see if the high salt light comes on? It's my understanding that it's actually high amps that will trigger the light? (current diagnostics says amps are at zero) If we install the new cell and the high salt warning comes on can we just turn it off and continue with the drain and refill or would we have to remove the new cell and put the old one back in?

I had to replace my pump this year so the pool got pretty bad before I could start cleaning it.

I have a CYA of 20 and have kept the FC between 12 and 20 since the end of June. Starting PH is 7.4 but my pool is still green.

It does seem to be slowly getting better i can see the bottom now but at this rate I'm still looking at weeks to go. What am I doing wrong?

I'm using the Taylor test kit to get my readings

Hey everyone

I found TFP awhile back, casual referencing over time. Recently revisited, due to issues with upgraded 24 ft Intex above ground. I'm now using a Taylor K-2006C for testing and running through a SLAM. Also upgraded the sand filter (Doheny 24 inch, 1.5 HP) for a bit more flow as the filter provided (14 inch, .6 HP) didn't seem robust enough. And just reviewed the need or not for calcium/hardness as related to vinyl pool liners, which alleviated some of my concerns, though not my previous spending for a 25 lb bucket of Calcium Chloride from Pool Mate.

All that being said, decided best to join and enjoy contributing where I can and learn as much as I can. The science is key and really appreciate the collective wisdom and experience presented by the members. My family (including 2 young granddaughters) appreciate it.

All the best, enjoy the swim.



-don