Thank you. I have a few other questions. Should I put them on this post?
We have some fractures/cracks in the fiberglass. And the coping has a lot of places that are in bad shape. Most seem surface and don't leak. We do have a leak somewhere that we are addressing.
When do we know when this type of pool has made it to the end of its term. Is there options to resurface/restore a pool like this? New fiberglass sides or liner or something else? Living in western Michigan we have a very limited amount of pool places. Most don't seem to be very knowledgeable with this type of pool.
I can add some pictures if helpful.

I have a 4in cantilever edge and 6in under that, can you cut out the 6in without replacing the shell?

I have the following for sale, as seen here: Pool Blaster® CX-1 Battery Powered Robot

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Pool Blaster CX-1 Cordless Robotic Cleaner. They go for $1,499.00 new. I'll part with mine for $825.00, shipped within the continental US. I know I'll end up taking a huge loss on it but that's the way it goes and lucky for one of you!...

I've only used it about 15 times or so and I really like it. The problem for me is that my pool is just too huge (36,000 gallons) and I need a robot that I can remote control direction on to clean specific targeted areas, and no cordless robot is capable of controlling direction underwater yet (since the wifi signal doesn't make it). If I had a smaller pool, this robot would be great. It does a good job picking up leaves, dead algae, bugs, and pretty much anything.

You can run the robot for up to 3-4 hours in a single day, or you can program it to do 30-minute cleaning for 7 days before it needs to be recharged.

Everything works perfectly with the unit and I can take a video for you if you want me to prove the unit is working, etc. There is nothing wrong with the unit at all.

Send me a PM if interested.

Here is an aerator/bubbler that will run off your water return. Parts are cheap and ubiquitous. A plethora off bubbles!



Exploded view of parts



Parts List
NIBCO® 1-1/2" MIP x Socket PVC Adapter
NIBCO® 1-1/2" Spigot x 3/4" Socket PVC Reducer Bushing
1/2" pvc pipe (Length depends on depth of water return)
3/4" pvc pipe (Only 2" needed)
NIBCO® 3/4" x 3/4" x 1/2" Socket PVC Reducer Tee
PVC Primer and Glue

You will have to bore out the stop in the 1/2" opening in the tee so the 1/2" PVC used for air intake slides all the way through to the bottom of the tee. I used a rotary rasp similar to the image below. The 45 degree bevel cut on the 1/2" pipe is very important and must face out towards the pool (see exploded view). Don't glue the air 1/2" intake pipe into the tee, you may need to adjust it depending on your water pressure. I wouldn't glue the 3/4" pipe to the reducer bushing either (but glue the venturi side). That way you can use the assembly as a jet by pulling out the venturi portion.

Single speed pump, the breaker on my main panel in the utility room is a regular 30A that feeds into the pool equipment subpanel (non-GFCI 20A dual pole breakers currently for the pump). I have a rather simple setup, currently just one single speed pool pump that was running from that subpanel.

I read a little bit on the GFCI and noticed that there might be some specific Siemens breaker needed if I am going to VSP in the future. Another concern I have is the false trips as I'm setting my pump on via a intermatic mechanical timer and they run on night hours. I don't want a too sensitive GFCI breaker that cuts the power to the pump during the night without me realizing it.

Can you guys point some direction wrt what breaker I should put and in my current situation if GFCI breaker offers more benefits (electric safety) than concerns (false trip shuts off pump causing not enough circulation)?

Thanks a lot.

So this year I have experimented with adding DE to my sand filter. I did this first time clear out some finer debris after I finished a SLAM, but wanted to maintain this as a routine after each backwash.

After a fresh backwash, my pressure gauge is reading exactly at 12 psi. I usually need to add 2.5-3 cups of DE powder to get my pressure up to 13. However after a couple on and off cycles on my pool pump, the pressure never recovers back to 13, but drops back to 12 (or a bit above). My guess is that after the pump cycles and filter loses pressure, the DE has a chance to resettle a bit causing less pressure next time the pump is turned back on.

So my question is, should I add more DE after this happens? Or just assume that the DE I added is still doing it's job.

I've finally ordered my inground liner pool kit. I have a 24'x50' pool being delivered in less than a month. It's 9' deep with 6' tanning ledge.

For plumbing it has:
-3 skimmers, 2 main drains, and 4 returns
-slide
-6 deck jets
- hayward c5030 filter
- no heater
I'm looking at the

Pentair IntelliFlo3 VSF 3.0HP with Touchscreen and Relay Board- 011078​

I am planning to run all skimmers and returns on their own valve controlled seperate plumbing lines. My question is:

The pump is set up for 2.5" plumbing on the suction and discharge. Should I run all the skimmers, main drains, and returns on 2.5" plumbing? I have some long runs to the skimmers and returns so didn't know about pipe size.

Thanks

We are considering moving to a more southern climate in the semi-near future. The housing market is an absolute mess right now. Originally we were hoping to find a place with a nice pool and build a pole barn since you rarely find both on the same property. This is proving to be a huge challenge. I am trying to get an idea of what it would look like to do the reverse. We currently have a 15x30x52 above ground at our place in WI. I know we would like something larger and deeper but doesn't need to be massive. We definitely need steps vs a ladder. Looking for something "nice" but not extravagant. Easy to maintain and good automation for sure. Definitely want it to be salt as our current pool is a breeze to maintain. patio material can be anything. Don't need slides or diving boards. We would like a spa that could be used year round but maybe a separate "deck spa" would be better there? Plain rectangle would be fine. Don't need ledges or anything fancy. Just solid. What should we budget for something like this? We would pick a property with this project in mind so there shouldn't be any crazy landscaping, walls, or access issues.

I just installed a glacier pool chiller a week ago. I'm running from 12am-10am then running just the filter pump from 10am-7pm. I don't feel like it's as cool as it should be. It's 84 first thing in the morning but by the afternoon it's 88. Any suggestions? I live in the Houston, Tx area and it's getting HOT.

Any idea what this white stuff could be? Found it near a return bubbler on sun shelf.

It dissolves if you rub it between your fingers.

I was thinking maybe calcium, but my water chemistry seems to be in reccomended ranges.

Using a PH meter for PH.

MAPR-Austin said:

The decking can be demoed and replaced, but I would suggest:

-Leave the pool full of water during the work, to keep the walls from collapsing into the pool
-Do the demo work by hand, not with a skidsteer or excavator. The walls are tied into the deck by rebar that runs up the back of the walls and is then tied to the rebar in the deck.
-Put the plumbing under pressure before the demo work starts, and until the deck is fully poured.
-The right contractor can remove those white coping strips and pour the new deck with a cantilever form.
-The rebar coming up from the back of the walls MUST be retained and tied back into the new deck. It is the only thing keeping the top of the walls from

It looks like the tile is set in a track, should be straightforward to remove it and reset some new tile.

The rust looks to be from a seam in the panels. Depending on how far you want to go with this thing, you could have the paint blasted off (I would use hydroblasting or some alternative to sand blasting to minimize mess and likelihood of making holes in the walls). After that, the walls should probably be primed with some kind of rust inhibiting primer, then repainted and the seams re-caulked.

The floor can probably be prepped and replastered - nothing special needed.

On the deck, I have also seen people use L-shaped renovation pavers to cover up the deck and the white strip. Might be worth looking into.

Click to expand...

MAPR-Austin; Thank you for sharing your expertise here!. My in-laws just got a quote from a landscape design co to tear up and re-pour the deck around their inground liner pool. My gut told me that perhaps the deck is somehow tied into the pool walls. The quote includes a lengthy paragraph absolving them of responsibility to any damage to the pool, etc. Separately, this (Spartan) pool has an old aluminum coping that has corner pieces out of place. Do you know how it likely attaches to the wall? Are they possibly integral to the liner track, or can it be taken off and replaced with new metal, or poured coping (as with the Stegmeier forms)?

I live in drought stricken central Texas. Due to water restrictions no outdoor watering is permitted including swimming pools. I can not maintain my pool water level and soon my filtering system will be out of service. How do I close a pool in during weather above 100 degrees.? I assume I need to totally drain and cover to prevent algae and bacteria from destroying the plaster. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Ray

Testing with a TF-Pro. Water shad been great for a month, now turning cloudy with slight green hue. Levels are as follows
PH 7.5, FC 7.5, TC 8.0, Alk 80, CYA 40.
Added liquid chlorine last night and brushed thoroughly, woke up and have green streaks on floor of the pool. I’m at a loss. If anyone has any info on what may help, I’m still learning but this site has been invaluable.

Hello fellow TFP members-

Need some help figuring out what the proper solution is to remove the stains on the these photos. I sent these photos to the poolstainremovers.com and they indicated that I had a combination of copper stains and organic algae staining. After I remove the stains I plan to remove and refill with new water.

My pool is older and has an old pool heater that came with the house when i purchased it 10 years ago. I'm guessing the stains are from the heater or maybe copper plumbing (not 100% sure it has copper plumbing).

Although my pool water is very clear I plan to drain to reduce CYA levels which are way too high. 150+. I'm spending lots of money on chlorine this summer. During covid when chlorine was hard to find I resorted to using tablets which raised the CYA too high. Replacing my water would be much cheaper than filtering my water via reverse osmosis. I did that back in 2016. It'll cost me about $60-$75 in water to refill. Much cheaper than using a ton of chemicals too.

Question is, prior to changing out the water I'd like to remove the stains, what are my best options for doing so? I'm guessing the water would be in solution so draining would be a good option anyway since the metal needs to be removed from the pool. Do some of the chemicals recommended on the site like Jacks Magic work

with high CYA levels?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

We had a pretty bad storm last night. Check the pool this morning, pump is off. Check the breaker box & it's tripped & panel says Check System Reset. The actual system is working, the breaker for the lights is on, but the pump breaker is off. There is a GFCI reset button, but it won't push in. We've turned the breaker to the off position, tried pushing the reset button, still won't flip back to the on position (goes to middle). We took off the cover & checked fuses, but they all look fine. Checked the MAIN breaker box & the pool is in the on position there. Flipped that one on/off, but still no change at the breaker by the pump.

Not sure if it's a bad breaker (& if that's something we can fix ourselves) or what else???? Help!

We have Hayward MaxFlow VS pump, Hayward Goldline Prologic Control System.

Has anyone used either of these tools?

I'm about to replace much or likely all of my pool deck due to tree damages coming from two City trees. One was removed already.

But my question is, about the deck temperature. The existing surface (exposed aggregate is very uncomfortable, mostly because of how hot it gets. What are you thoughts for a cooler surface?

Thanks in advance

am new on this site which I came across trying to research and issue that I have. That is the union joints that connect the salt cell T-15, are damaged, one is cracking and I need to replace them. Imagine my dismay when my pool tech told me he'd have to cut the plumbing lines back and rework them. That is the LAST thing I want to do. So I went back to Hayward and dealing with Jim, who is really nice, but who confirmed to me that the pool plumbing pipes would have to be cut. So I've been researching a bit and found that a number of union joints actually come in 2 pieces per joint but held together with 2 screws. Does anyone have any ideas or experiences that may help me?

Linda

Brett M said:

Yeah, Pentair has its own weird (wider-spaced) threading. Hayward may have its own, too. All the standard and generic companies seem to have the same threading, however, oddly enough (maybe it's the same as Hayward?).

But I am dealing with old Pentair unions - I went to put in my new non-Pentair pump and, lo-and-behold, the unions won't screw onto it. I looked like heck for an adapter to screw onto the pump (I found a discontinued one that is the opposite of my situation - ie, if someone had a new Pentair pump and the existing unions didn't fit.).

I'm looking at split-nut unions, though it's hard to tell if they're quite right. I also have the union slip plumbed directly into my 3-way valve so, like you, I'm leery to go a-heat gunning. It's exasperating to be stymied by a lousy union.

Click to expand...

Which new pump? Which old Pentair pump? All pump manufacturers use proprietary threads on the pump, they are not interchangeable.

Hello my filter retaining rings keeps falling off, everytime we open it up the ring falls off and we jam it back into place.

Is there a fix for this or is it nessesary to replace or can I just not need to put back again?

Howdy folks! My CaliMar 1.5 HP VS pump is just over a year old and it sounds like the bearings have given up on it. I have it on my table, I'm at a loss as to how to remove the fan from the rear of the motor so I can take the impeller off. I was hoping to get at the bearings with my calipers and hopefully order some that would work. If anyone knows the magic trick to getting this impeller off without breaking the rear fan and/or knows the right bearings I need to order I would greatly appreciate it.

I have had this system for about 10 years and it’s been very dependable. My check system light is on with no errors that I can tell. Is it possible that high water temperature could cause the system to stop functioning. Currently pool water is at 88deg.

Standard mesh or Pro Mesh?

So as my Betta makes its way across the country, I have promised to do a side to side comparison.

Step 1 is how much stuff does each one pick up. So I cleaned out the Ariel and put it into the pool this morning with a clean basket. I will leave it in for 5 days (until Tuesday morning) and then see how much stuff it has picked up. I will pass it at least once to run the robot as there is some stuff in the bottom of the pool and the landscaper comes tomorrow and the Ariel will not get everything.

Tuesday Ariel comes out and Betta goes in for the same 5 day period.

Now I agree this is probably not completely scientific as debris may vary over the 5 days.

Actually, wait. I am going to run the robot now, and start with a clean pool. I will refrain from running the robot until I take the Ariel out. Then will run a full robot session and measure what gets picked up. This should help measure how much the two skimmers miss.

Hi all,
New pool owner here, had our in-ground finished ~8 weeks ago. I've been balancing the chemicals myself using Pool Math, and have had 0 issues so far. ~3 days ago, the samples when using the R870 will no longer turn pink, no matter how much chlorine I add to the pool. Pool is crystal clear. I did leave the reagents outside (in the Taylor test kit box) overnight accidentally when it was warm.

Is there a chance I somehow made the chemicals go inert? My CYA is reading ~50 and pH is in the 7-8pH range (balanced every other day using muriatic acid). I tried a 50-50 mix of tap water and bleach and added R870 to that mixture, and it also did not turn pink at all (I was assuming it would turn bright pink given how much chlorine would be in that test sample...).

5800 gallon gunite pool
50 CYA

Hello

I am president of our small homeowners association and usually take on things I can't find volunteers for. Trying to save money on repairs our spa leak which has become a money pit.

Nice to be here.

For a "typical" chlorine pool owner, what is your routine for chlorinating your pool? Are you manually pouring liquid chlorine into your pool every single day? If not, what do you do?

I have a San Juan Pool, and its less than 3 months old. Already seeing things that make me think it was a 2nd quality patch job on a new pool. Is this normal at 3 months?

Are we on the right track here: So, I am posting for a friend named Brian in Owings MD....he came over to my house and marveled at the clarity and cleanliness of my pool....the robot vac had just finished. Yes, it was perfect. He lamented about his pool algae problem...in that, he spends all his time brushing and filtering (24 hours/day) and the algae is back every other day. 30,000-gallon pool with cartridge filter. Marcite. After a few quick questions and introducing him to the TFP method....I think I diagnosed his issue. Having been using Trichlor for the last three years as his primary source of FC I assumed he had a very high CYA (this happened to me in my pre-TFT days, so I feel his pain). He brought some pool water over the next day and YES....using my TFT-100 kit we saw CYA was around 110 ppm. I expected higher. His FC was 25.5 ppm, and CC was virtually nil, TA was 60, and CH was 175 ppm. It's not an SWG pool yet (He wants one now ) He had just 2 days earlier had his water "analyzed" by the pool store folks, and they sold him a 32-ounce/$30 bottom of what I think is polyquat algecide. Too funny. I told him to drain 2 feet of water, refill, we'd check for CYA then....if around 80-90 then we'd continue....we'd add baking soda to get the TA up a bit... calcium too....and maybe SLAM (of course with a CYA of 80 that's a lot of chlorine. Maybe let the CYA work it's way down a bit before closing.

Are we headed in the right direction? Anything else to consider?

I think Brian will be a new member soon.

I have a pool that was originally built with an in-floor cleaning system - it doesn't really work. I bought a pool vac that I use and like, but I have to run it through the skimmer which means that all of the surface debris goes straight to the pump strainer. I've been looking at robotic/cordless vacuums, but I was thinking that they wouldn't be effective since the organics (algae, et. al.) don't go through the filter. If I run a robotic vacuum and open up the floor drains a little more, is the motion of the vacuum enough to stir up all of the tiny debris and run it through the filter?