Hi everyone, I have a Hayward sand filter. The filter head (multiport) was replaced last year and everything was working great. However this year, the "pin" on the valve handle started sliding out. I can push it back in, but is it normal for the pin to do this? I only turn the handle in one direction (clockwise). See pictures below of the pin. My old filter head did the same thing but I figured it was because it was very old. Now I'm starting to wonder if I am doing something when turning the handle to cause the pin to come out?

Thanks in advance for any help or insights!!

Hi, having trouble with a Pentair Superflo VSP. It started showing an Err 0018 code which Pentair said was a three phase issue. I turned the power off, waited, restarted. Still Err 0018. Then did it again and Err0018 went away but the pool pump turned on making a very, very loud noise. Turned it off again. Turned it on and then it gave error code 0019 (motor). The pool service company came and took the pump apart and said there was nothing blocking the impeller. I've attached a video with the sound. Any help? The motor is only 1.5 years old. here is the video which has the sound

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Hello there!

Newer pool/home owner here who is methodically addressing what appears to be long-standing pool issues. I did a SLAM recently, following the directions on this site, and the pool water has never looked better. Thank you!

Another issue is that I’ve long believed the pool to have a leak. I did a bucket test a few days ago and confirmed the suspicion. The pool lost a couple inches more than the bucket.

I ordered some Anderson dye to perform a leak detection and determined that I have a leak in the passive (not hooked up to the pump at all) pipe running from the pool to the spa. The dye was being sucked into the pipe from the pool and spa side.

In retrospect, it makes sense that there is a leak there. A previous owner built a room over the spa and there’s a large wall right over where the pipe runs. My hunch is that the weight broke the pipe.

Good thing we passed on the pool inspection!

Anyway, my question is: Is there any reason that I shouldn’t plug both ends of the pipe?

I really appreciate the help! I can add photos if necessary.

Hey everyone!

Been awhile since I last asked a question. Sorry if this one is sort of basic but here it goes:

For the most part I rely on my robot to clean the pool. Then occasionally I pull out the hose and pole to manually vacuum the debris it misses (mostly fine sediment, dirt, dead algae). Yes I do have the Polaris fine basket too but even that isn’t 100%.

My question is when the sand filter multiport is set to waste and pump is running at full speed for best suction how do I prevent the pool water from dropping so quickly? Sticking the garden hose in while I vacuum doesn’t quite seem to fill it up at a fast enough pace. Any other suggestions?

Thanks!

We convert to salt on Monday, and I saw a comment on here from a couple of years ago about Aqua Salt. The poster made the comment that they did not like Aqua Salt brand because it had "mystery stain inhibitors" in it. My PB has brought a bunch of bags of Aqua Salt over for us to use on Monday, but I have been reading and was really wanting to use Diamond Crystal Solar Naturals for water softeners from earlier suggestions I read on the forum. My questions are:

• Is the Aqua Salt really that bad? I looked at their product data sheet online and it says 99.9% Sodium Chloride. Nothing on the bags though to indicate that.
• Would the Aqua Salt work in my water softener? If so, then I will use it for that and just buy what I need for the pool with the Diamond brand.

What do you guys think?

Hi guys

I am a new pool owner who has been following the threads. I moved into this house couple of months ago. I have couple of questions if someone can help me out.

1) Is my pool water color too dark or is it just the shade coming from the ground that makes it appear too 'dark'. During the night with pool lights on, you can see the floor easily but during the day, this is the shade. I was just wondering if I am missing something? Image

2) I am seeing a lot of these white stain buildups. Is this calcium deposit or something else? What would be the best way to clean it up? Stain 1 Stain 2

These are my most recent test results from TF Test kit:

FC: 3.5, CC: 0.5, pH: 7.8 (or 8), TA: 110, CH: 325, CYA: 90, Temp (from intellitouch system so no idea of accuracy): 87, CSI: 0.49

My CYA got high as pool company once recommended I had low CYA and had to put more stabilizer in and using tablets. I have now moved to liquid chlorine to prevent CYA from getting higher. Adding chlorine basically daily (~0.5g or so).

Thanks for your help

I've just about got my head wrapped around my pool's plumbing and equipment system, at least insofar as I understand what things do and what valves send water where. But I have two things I'm unsure of.

First, I've got two skimmers and a main drain in the pool and a drain in the spa. Here's a pic of where my suction plumbing emerges from underground at the pump. The pipe on the right is labelled "Spa Suction" so that's clear. The far left pipe must be the skimmers, since I know those are operating, and the diverter is open that way. Then I suppose the middle pipe is the pool main drain. How are the skimmers typically plumbed if they emerge as a single suction line at the pump? Is it a long run of pipe from the far skimmer to the pump pad with a lateral teed off to pick up the near skimmer? Or maybe two separate home runs teed together closer to the pump? Each skimmer has a single port in the bottom. Also, this main drain is clearly off, and I've seen numerous references to bottom drains being unnecessary and excluded from new builds. Will I ever have reason to operate the main drain short of using it to pump the pool dry?



Second, I have a booster pump for the Polaris pressure cleaner, and I have a pretty good idea that once the pressure side pipe goes underground it heads directly to the port in the side of the pool. However, the suction side pipe also disappears into the ground and don't know where it pulls from. Would it typically be teed off the pool return pipe? If so, I don't know why it goes underground to do that, when the return piping is aboveground about a foot away.



Any good guesses?

Hello!

We've had our pool for a little over a year (built new) and we've just started to have an issue over the weekend. When running our pump on anything above medium (75%) it begins to "pulse" and causes the pressure gauge to bounce all over the place. There is quite a bit of air in the pump basket, which I can normally get rid of by running the pump on high and opening the air relief on on the filter. But with it behaving as it is, I can't run it on high, and opening the pressure relief only lets water out.

Video Link of issue.

Some notes:

• It does this no matter what position the valves are in (all pool, all spa, sheer on/off, all valves partially open [mix of pool/spa]).
• The returns output pressure/volume is much lower than typical
• The filters were cleaned at the end of June, and again at the end of July.
• I haven't taken anything apart yet.
• Skimmer baskets are clean
• We get very little debris in the pool (no trees, etc.), usually a few small leaves per week.

Thanks for any help or thoughts!

(edit to fix video link)

A pool I'm familiar with but being managed by another guy, with Pentair Easytouuch/intelichem system and the guy says he puts in weekly 4-8 ounces. Can someone explain why this is needed but I think I know the answer $$$.

Also wondering what the highest firmware for the GLX-PCB-MAIN is and if anyone is willing to share it.

I’ve searched and searched but cannot find an answer. I’ve learned so much in my few months of pool ownership about chemicals from this website and I just am learning that my pump has been going full rpms for 12 hrs every day and I have a vsp.
I run it 12 hrs overnight with fountains out of the returns because I’m in Texas with no shade and it helps cool it to 85 at night when it was 92+ before.

My problem is when I just have vsp scheduled the filter pump doesn’t appear to be on and no temperature is read in the IAquaLink opening screen even though in web info the pump is running at the rpms I have set.

After a lot of research (and poolgates previous post) I scheduled the filter pump for 12 hrs and also the lower variable speed I want for that 12 hrs. Now this gives me a green in filter pump and temp reading. Am I doing it right?

Also, is there any way to make my default filter pump button/setting not run max rpm?


In the winter I may make different settings with different speeds at different times which I will probably have to ask help for.

Do I have this set up right? @PoolGate

I

I see that the Taylor Service Complete Pool Water Test Kit K-2006C is selling for $130


Is the TF-100 functionally equivalent to the K-2006C?

1. Has the same size bottles
2. Has the same reagents

I have read numerous post regarding robotic pool, cleaners as we have never owned one before. Currently we have the suction side The PoolCleaner 4 wheel. We use the pressure side option on her other pool and it worked pretty well as we had lots of leaves; however, our current pool has a few leaves, but mostly a lot of pollen and dust that falls into the pool. We live up on a hill in the south westerly winds that blow across our backyard drop everything into the pool. Our pool cleaner is not able to really keep up with the pollen so we’re looking at a robotic option. We need something that will climb the care of everything else. Our pool is 20 x 40 so it’s a pretty good size. Would really like some recommendations from folks that have similar situation with a lot of pollen it their pool.

Hello TFP community
Looking for some additional advice on this issue. Thanks to this forum, I was able to troubleshoot my "No Cell Power 2" problem little over a year ago.
Re-soldering burned contact didn't work and I ended up replacing the relay. Repair process went well and system was up and running again.
Fast forward about 12 months and the problem has returned. This time re-soldering the "famous" relay works, but the fix only lasts a few days before I see "No Cell Power 2" message and have to re-solder again.
One other thing I should mention, the power supply on the right (the transformer, I guess that's what it's called) runs extremely hot. It's so hot that the entire box is almost too hot to hold my hand for a period of time. Could tat be the main reason for what I'm dealing with?
Any help / advise would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,

Looking for a Hayward expert to come take a look at my H400fdn. I've been trying to troubleshoot it myself and also had my pool guy take a look, but I think he's not that well versed on this heater. I'm in Northern NJ (Ramsey/Mahwah/Wyckoff) Any recommendations?
Thanks!

I'm a bit stumped. Backstory, waiting on my K-2006 for over 2 weeks, went ahead and ordered single DPD/FAS and CYA tests from TFTESTKITS. Arrived yesterday

Measured last night before starting SLAM today. FC was nil (I've had my SWG off bc I was draining/diluting to get my CYA down). CYA was 15

Per PoolMath, SLAM level is 10ppm. Advise to add 1 gal of 10% liquid chlorine. Which I did.

Waited about an hour and half and tested FC. Added 2 scoops of DPD. Started adding R-0003, and basically stopped once I hit 40ppm (80 drops). Thought maybe it didn't need 2 scoops of DPD, so I started over with just 1 scoop. Same thing. Stopped measuring at 50ppm (100 drops). The test water just isn't turning clear.

I wouldn't think that the reccomended amount of LC would chlorinate that much.

I backwashed before adding LC and pump is running nonstop.

If it matters, I also added 120lbs of salt about 2 hours before I added the LC. Could this be affecting it?

I never know what size cover to get for our 25ft round above ground. Is there actually a correct size? What should I be shopping for? They only last a year or two before the grommets tear out anyway. Maybe I'm doing something wrong.

Hey guys,

We have a 60k gallon gunite community pool in our subdivision in Southeast Michigan and I'm trying to put a proposal together to get our current heater replaced (can only get the pool up to 82 and we are looking more for 84-85). We'd like to have it open mid-May to mid-September ideally.

From what I've gathered it sounds like a 500,000 BTU gas heater would be ideal. Anybody working with a similar sized pool in Michigan have any recommendations?

Also, I've dug through the forums here and searched the web but haven't found a reliable calculator to compare the incremental increase in annual cost to heat the pool to 82 (which we currently do) compared to 84-85. Does anybody have any tips on how I could ballpark this or have a link to a nice calculator? The surface area is around 2000 square feet with an average depth of 4 feet. The cost of heating this would be split between 300 homes so I essentially just need to show that the marginal increase in annual cost to heat it 3 more degrees isn't going to be astronomical.

Thanks

I am curious why the TF-100 isn't sold on amazon or eBay?
Are there similar FAS-DPD test kits that are sold on amazon or eBay?
Can I purchase the reagents for the TF-100 on amazon or eBay?

In 2019 I replaced eight Jandy JLUC10-100 lights that failed after only four years of service (actually, half of them failed but they were discontinued so I replaced all eight). The new lights, Jandy JLU4C12W-150s, were much brighter and appeared to be of better quality, so I was ok with replacing the old ones. Last year, three of the new lights failed after only three years of service. They were replaced under warranty, so no problem. This year, two more of the new lights (replaced in 2019) are failing - one is completely shot, the other is showing signs of fatigue. I reached out to Jandy customer service and the rep I worked with in the past told me that these lights should not be failing at this rate, and that there may be an issue with the lighting system. I find this hard to believe. The system consists of eight threaded sockets connected to a junction box via 1” pvc conduit. The junction box is dry and clean and the lights were installed in accordance with the instructions. Pretty basic stuff. In replacing the warrantied lights\, at least one of them had visible signs of condensation on the inside of the lens, which I assume is the real issue. Are others experiencing this rate of failure? Are there any preventative measures that can be taken? I though about adding silicone to the water tight connector on the light but I doubt that wil do much. Is there a better light? Just curious. Replacing 2+ lights per year is expensive and should not be necessary. Thanks!

mknauss said:

Welcome to the forum!
Great to hear you are having success. Be sure to fill out your Signature when you have the time.
I suggest you read through Pool Care Basics - Trouble Free Pool and even look at a few of our videos TFP-TV - Trouble Free Pool

Click to expand...

Thank you, I do believe I started that I just have to figure out where I found it

My IC60 is about 6 years old (I think) in a 20,000 gallon pool. (I know this is overkill for my pool size. But that is what they gave me!!)
Im in New Jersey so it only runs 3-4 months a year.
I have an Easy Touch system and the salt level in the Screen Logic app is not updating at all and is stuck on 2600 ppm (see image)
I put a few bags of salt in the pool before I realized the app number wasn't changing so I know there is salt in the pool.
I have never cleaned the SWG. Going to do that next.
I'm wondering if a dirty SWG would cause a misreading of the salt level in the app or if the SWG has just reached its end of life.

I've attached an image of the ScreenLogic readout. And another image of the constant state of the SWG.

Here is a link to a vid showing the diagnostic of the SWG

Thanks in advance for all your help guys and gals!!
Lou

This is my valve I need to adjust. On the far right is the suction coming from the bottom pool drains. It currently is CLOSED for this illustration. The bottom line is the skimmer and where my question arises (has red circles on it). From the current valve position, I can turn the valve counterclockwise until the CLOSED area reaches the main intake to the pump (far left pipe showing water flow going away from valve). The yellow arrows mark where the valve stops turning. Currently the valve is turned as far as it will go clockwise. How do I get the CLOSED position over the skimmer rather than just over the main drains or the pump itself? Once it stops turning I am scared to force it any more since I do not want to break it.

Hi All,
Fiberglass pool I installed in January. In April, it was screened in. I've got the TF-Pro test kit and water is right on. Just FYI, it's salt.

Now that South Florida is in the rainy season, I've noticed a ring around the waterline of my pool. It's not easy to get off. After lots of scrubbing I tried my fiberglass cleaner for my boat and it works well to remove it. The problem is, every time it rains the ring comes back. It's very prominent where the returns are hitting the side of the pool and the ring goes around about 8 feet or so from where the returns hit the side of the pool so it's coming from the pump apparently, though I doubt it originates there.

I installed a new filter and it's did the same thing the next day. The skimmer is clean and even when we go a week or two without getting in the pool, it still comes back after it rains. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

I know there are lots of posts about robotic pool cleaner recommendations, but I wanted to list my specific needs to get the best recommendation. My Polaris 9450 finally failed. I think water got into the cable connection on the robot. Besides this, its pretty beat up. It has served us very well for seven years. No complaints at all.

So, I’m ready to buy a new robot and I’m blown away by the vast array of models offered by each manufacturer, and they all seem so close to each other in feature/function. At the end of the day, I want to drop a robot in the pool, press a button and have it do its job. Cool features are good if they are something I’ll use. I’m wide open with regard to manufacturer, model and price. I do like the fact that the Polaris has a caddy but thats not a deal breaker.

Our pool is large, probably 40K gallons. It’s 50 ft x 15 ft at the wides point. The shallow end is 3-4 ft and the deep end is 8 ft. It has one small bench and a tanning ledge. The Polaris didn’t go onto the tanning ledge which is fine. It also has a large vanishing edge tank that I would drop the Polaris into periodically, so whatever I get needs to be nimble enough to navigate the VE tank (probably 4 ft wide by 25 ft long). I assume most are. Like I said, the Polaris did a good job. If I had any gripes they would be bin capacity and speed. Due to the size of the pool I would often have to empty the bin and send it on another pass. Two passes was probably 4 to 5 hours. We do not cover our pool in the winter so it has its work cut out for it during those months.

Given that the 9450 was a fairly basic machine, are there must-have features that I should consider? Maybe knowing this will help me wind down my choices. Is mobile app important? If you have a specific brand/model that is working well for you in a similar pool, please share. I’m not too worried about price, but if a $900 cleaner will work as well as a $1,500 cleaner than I will certainly go with the value decision. If the high-end unit is truly better then thats fine too.

Priorities: gets the pool clean with no fuss, reliable, reasonable speed, reasonable capacity, parts/service availability.

Thank you in advance.

Dave

Hi All,
Greetings from Atlanta. I have had a pool for around 7 years and have been maintaining it myself with some pretty good results until this year. I’m now encountering an issue with my salt system that I have no idea how to resolve. Started doing more internet research and here I am.

I'm using the Taylor K2006 test kit to test my water.

I noticed that after adding R-0870 (powder) and swirling it, for about a minute to a minute and half, that the sample would get darker and have a higher FC level than if I were to just start adding the R-0871 (regent) right after the powder dissolved. Just curious if this is typical and the reason you need to start the R-0871 right away? All regents were bought this year so they aren't near expiration.

I need to replace a whisperflow 1 hp pump that only services my waterflow and slide. Will a 1 hp Superflow pump work as well?

Getting ready to renovate our kidney shaped pool, looking for ideas and trends to allow me to learn and maintain my own pool.