Hello Forum,

I bought a new mx-6 this month. It seems to work OK but I noticed something while looking it over: the "middle engine housing" doesn't seem to fit. Best to explain with pictures, 2 attached.

The housing has a thin plastic piece that circles around the paddles, going between the paddles and lid-hinges. In the attached pics, look at the one with the yellow piece on the left side (the cover's latch). Two stainless screws in the foreground, a single screw further back. Just to the right of the single screw you will see what I am talking about: the piece of plastic is not laying flat. This looks like it is designed to engage the lid when it is closed, aligning the lid for proper sealing. You can press it down with your thumb, and there is no problem closing the lid over it. But I worry that flexing it up/down over time will fatigue the plastic and break it.

The other photo is a view from the front. You can see the same part lifted up a bit (center of pic).

I wondered if others see the same thing in their MX-6s? I just got the thing and can exchange it with Amazon if this is a true defect.

Thank you for any insights or help. PDP

I’m draining my pebbletec pool completely and have black onyx finish. I think it would lighten up after drying but the amount of white that’s showing is making me worry that if they are calcium deposits. Any ideas??

Hi! I've had an 24 round above ground pool since I moved to this house in 2010. Same pool's probably been here since the 1990's! Replaced the liner once and have had a salt system on it for the past 15 years with no problems. Since the pool is getting unbelievably ancient and I need another new liner anyway, I've decided to upgrade to a Doughboy Summerville with the deep end. Dealer recommends an "Insta Frog" mineral insert for the skimmer basket instead of salt, which would void the pool warranty.

Pool guy recommends against salt generally but thinks I should otherwise keep old equipment and not switch to Doughboy filter / pump. I've really loved the water quality with salt these past 15 years and have had no apparent issues with rust. I've also heard Doughboy does make a pool that is saltwater compatible, but my dealer "doesn't know" and has a Summerville in stock he wants to move. Pool guy recommends NOT getting Doughboy equipment and keeping my old stuff, just replacing pool.

Any advice here?

Anyone know of a saltwater compatible Doughboy model?
Would you keep the old working equipment or get the whole Doughboy package?
Does the skimmer "Insta Frog" work and would it give me water quality as nice (or almost as nice) as I've been enjoying?

I really appreciate the experts weighing in 'cause I'm way out of my depth

We are doing a renovation to our pool that was built in the 90’s that involves adding a spa, new beam, and a gunite step. We noticed that ground water is leaking into the pool through the new gunite in certain areas. The contractor says that this is not a problem and we should proceed to installing the PebbleTec.

I am concerned that the PebbleTec will not hold up correctly in those areas due to water coming in from the outside and I may have a problem after the contractor has been paid.

Any thoughts on my situation based on the posted pictures? Do I move forward with plaster or is this an issue that needs to be immediately addressed?

We are putting up a slide and I need to get about 5 feet right under the concrete deck to the hole I drilled for the water stub. I tried a water wand/power washer but there really is no dirt just the gravel that was put down before the deck. Been hammering pipes under the deck but I've only gotten about 2 feet in 3 days.

Any ideas how to get through 5 feet of gravel that keeps collapsing on itself? Do pros just cut a line in the concrete lay the pipe then patch the cement?

I use PoolMath to help maintain my 455 gallon hot tub. Typically the amount of chemicals I need to add to my hot tub is fairly low—maybe 0.4 ounces of a dry acid, for example. When I look at that entry in the timeline, it rounds to just 0 ounces.

Can the precision be adjusted to show tenths when the number is less than (say) 10?

I have a Hayward HTC-4-ACT-RC controller that has a dead LCD screen. Everything else seems to be working as normal. Just nothing on the display screen. Pool equipment is running like normal and spa side remote still works like normal. Is there a way to fix the screen, or do I need to replace the controll unit assembly with screen, buttons, and small circuit board?
Thanks,
Jeff

I’m using a Pentair EasyTouch system with a solar valve on Valve A and a roof sensor. Everything was working fine with automatic solar control (based on pool and roof temps) until I manually created a circuit labeled “Solar” and assigned it the Solar function in Circuit Functions (failed misguided attempt to assign different pump speed to solar).

Since then, the system won’t rotate the solar valve anymore — even though:

• Valve A is still set to Used Solar
• Pool Heat is set to Solar Preferred
• Solar sensor is active and working
• The manual circuit has been renamed and set to Generic, but the label “Solar” is still stuck at the top of the screen for that circuit

I can’t assign “Solar” to any other circuit (it’s missing from the function list), and I can’t remove it from the one I assigned it to. The valve won’t move at all, so the automation is effectively broken. If I switch to solar it shows it’s “heating” but the the valve doesn’t move and nothing effectively happen.

I literally went through the entire manual to no avail. Looks like some sort of EasyTouch bug where once Solar is assigned to a relay circuit, it can’t be cleared. I want to restore full solar automation without doing a full factory reset.

Anyone else run into this or know a clean fix?

Thanks a lot!

With my Autocover came a Little Giant Pool Cover Pump http://www.lg-outdoor.com/p/apcp-1700?pp=12

Model number APCP-1700, CAT 577301, made by Franklin Electric, Okalahoma City OK. 73112-2935

It had been behaving erratically, turning off during pumping, not turning on when water level raised etc. Yesterday I emailed Franklin Electric, and to my surprise a person knowledgeable in their repair called me back a few hours later. He explained to me what could be happening. First suggestion was that the float had a hole/crack in it, and he gave me the part number to do a warranty claim. I asked about pollen gumming up the works of the switch etc., he advised it could be possible that the magnet the float raises could be dirty, and just need a cleaning. Finally he suggested one other thing to look at, which is a small hole that if blocked could cause "air lock", which didn't fit my description of the problem (he implied it would not work much at all if clogged), but i could check it while i had it taken apart.

First i removed the small round access plate from the bottom of the pump housing. Second i took out the 5 philips head screws holding the blue housing on. Third i removed the pump float (it justs kind of clips in place).



Float had no water in it, and looked fine, allthough dirty. Both sides of the magent looked fine too.





Next i looked for the hole he was talking about, it's dead center of this picture and clogged.

It was also clogged from the back side so i had to remove 4 more screws i think to remove the cover of the impeller to get to the backside of the hole.
When i slide the cover off, it dislodged the debris, and i had my hole back.


Took about 10 mins., and it works perfect now.
Guess i'll have to clean it ever so often, or blow off my cover in the off season more often, so that water and debris don't mix and cause this issue again.

I am hijacking this post from last year, and thankful that I found it.

I've had my pool for a year and just realized that my installer added Heat Pump as speed 7 as well, which results in 2750 speed whenever the heat pump setting is enabled, even when the pool was heated to the correct temperature. I'm sure my electric bill was affected by this.

As this thread suggested, I have removed the "Heat Pump" on speed label 7. Now, once the pool is heated to the set temperature, the pump speed goes down to the "Pool" speed setting, which is 1750.

Prior to the change, in the app, the "Spa Heater" and "Heat Pump" toggles pretty much worked in unison. When one was on, the other automatically turned on, and vice versa. This seemed odd to me.

Assuming that the the Dip switch S1 8 is correctly set to Heat Pump, is there any need anymore to have "Heat Pump" listed under "My Devices" on the app, and if so, is there a way to remove it?

Also, if you see anything else that you suggest changing, please let me know. I am hoping to take over for the pool guy in the next month or so, and my wife won't be happy if I mess anything up.

My IC40 stopped working a few weeks ago according to my alerts. I have finally had a chance to start troubleshooting but I have a feeling that it is in fact dead.

On my ScreenLogic app I am getting the Chlorinator: Communication Lost alert
I have no lights on the IC40
The cord does not show any damage
I have 41 VDC coming from the SWG card out to the IC40

I have tried disconnecting and reconnecting everything a few times now and have reset my EasyTouch a few times as well.

Is this one a goner? Is there anything else I should try?

It looks like I'm in purgatory at the moment since the OG IC40 is discontinued and it doesn't look like anyone has the new PLUS40 available yet.

Has anyone installed the latest design of the Pentair Globrites (grey body instead of black body) and can attest as to whether they last longer than the previous version that is prone to water infiltration?

Additionally, I'm thinking about replacing my failed light with the option below but unsure as to how it would work with an Intellicenter panel. Currently, I can pick colors and programs via the panel.

If I were to choose the below option, from what I understand, it won't interface with the panel to where you can select colors and programs, but you can turn it on/off via the panel to cycle through the different options. Is that accurate? I emailed the company and they mentioned if I have a light switch, you can turn them on/off, but I'm not sure if that applies to being able to turn them on/off via the panel's LCD screen (or associated app).

Hi TFP,

New to the site and new to pool ownership. I attempted to heat up my spa for the first time yesterday and surprise, surprise... no heat.

My Master Temp Heater is connected to an Easy Touch System and a Clean and Clear Plus Filter and Intellichlor chlorine generator (IC 40). I don't know the age of the system. I do know that the heater was assessed as part of the move-in inspection and at the time the unit powered up (i.e. membrane pad and LEDs working), but they didn't assess whether it was actually generating heat.

Anyway, I want to get the heater working, but as a first step would be happy to get back to square 1 with the membrane pad and LED working. Open to any suggestions!

Just replaced my single speed main pump with a Pentair Intelliflo3 3.0 VS. I believe I've configured my OneTouch (OT) correctly and managed to get the pump to turn on, but the rotating display on the OT shows Intelliflo VS 1 (Offline) even though the pump is running. My AqualinkRS is the latest Rev T.2.

Any ideas why it shows 'Offline'?

This is how splash and play pools, in Thornville Ohio, installs a new liner in Ohio’s crazy warm/cold weather. (Not my pool) thought it was cool wanted to share.

I previously had a concrete/fiberglass pool, but recently moved to a home with a vinyl liner pool. How important is calcium hardness in a vinyl pool?

Last season we replaced the laterals and sand in our Heyward filter. We replaced the failed SWG as well and proceeded to SLAM to clear pool after struggling with no SWG. After TWO weeks at SLAM and pool remaining cloudy (as in still couldn't see bottom of deep end), we took the multiport valve back off thinking we may have reinstalled something incorrectly. We didn't see anything wrong with spider gasket or any other assembly so we put it back together; However, something must have been wrong because it started filtering noticeably different in less than 24 hours after being taken apart and put back on and had no further issues the rest of the season. Asking this because it seems like the filter is not filtering properly again. Wondering if there is a common error I'm overlooking before I start buying replacement parts

Hi all, the CH is at 220. Trouble free suggest maintaining 250+. The chlorox bag advises 175-225. What should I do? Thanks

StevoB said:

Hello All,
I am in need of a new pump for the upcoming season. My old pump was a Hayward Power Max, 1.5hp, single speed. The pool is above ground, 33' round ~33,000 gallons.
I had no problem with the Hayward for quite a few years until it started screaming and just gave up. Ran it maybe 12 hours per day. The line to the pump is 120ac on a 20amp.
I need some help as I know I am getting to the point of analysis paralysis. I would like to put in a vs pump to reduce the costs, electric is insane here, but the vs pumps all seem to be made for inground pools. Can I use an in ground pump?
Another item is that I would like to install a small solar system this spring. This of course raises the question of having enough flow.

Overall, I am happy with a 1.5hp provided it can run the pool and the solar system. I would also love to knock some of those electric costs.

Pray tell, what are your thoughts? Really appreciate it.

Steve

Click to expand...

I'm going to just go ahead and change my 1.5 hp single speed motor with a V.S motor. I know my pump is a 56J, so I'm going to buy a V.S motor that will bolt onto my pump. Im looking forward to see if a V.S motor is all the hype.

Ok while dealing with the draining & refilling I’m taking a look at everything else.

As I mentioned before, we bought the house in foreclosure with a swampy pool and all equipment stolen so not knowing pools at all, we got the Pentair VS pump & C&C 420 & installed it and then filled & enjoyed it for 12 years.

mostly good experience with a few hiccups over the years. So while I’ve been goin over washing/stain removal/cleaning issues, plus finding this forum has me questioning plumbing.

There were two lines coming out of the ground together and one line farther away. The farther one away was the return line, one was suction from skimmer. The other we didn’t know what it was. We asked around and were told we could just cap it off and not use it.

So as I look at it today with a drain king in hand, I verified main drain line to rear skimmer is unobstructed, but I’ve never seen it actually do anything…. I’ve swam to the bottom with skimmer running before but felt no suction at all but idk if that’s how it normally is? So someone doesn’t get ‘sucked” into the line somehow? But

There is one open threaded hole in the side, so I’m guessing that’s the other end of what we capped off & haven’t ever used. Is that for like a vacuum attachment pool cleaner? But I have no clue how that would be connected to the plumbing we have?

I’m seeing if that’s likely correct and if it wouldn’t be too hard to hook it up now that I know more about pools at this point.

Also what’s the purpose of the main, if it doesn’t seem to create water movement?

Enclosed pic shows the capped line and the other is going to the Pentair VS pump. There are no valves on this setup.

Thanks for all the help and knowledge you’ve all shared already.

Anyone ever had calcium hardner not get hot? I just opened a new bag and mixed it with pool water in the same proportion i usually do, 1lb with half of a 5 gallon bucket and it didn't warm up. Also, typically after i stir for about 5 minutes the water is cloudy and this batch was clear. Any ideas? The Calcium Chloride looks like normal - white flakes. Pool water is 79F.

Curious if you've done a foam party and how it went. I have a similar spouse request LOL. Trying to decide if the fun is worth the work to cleanup afterwards. Situation : all adults, no kids, no glass, not a spring break club fest but more adult Funtime.

Hello all, I am in the process of learning the ropes on maintaining a pool. I have a small yard , so I have 15ft x48 bestway. It seems to work well for me, but I am trying to avoid it being a headache. Keeping my fingers crossed and trying to learn.

Hello,

I have had a little bit of spare time and decided to do something with the odd bits and pieces that I had laying around.

The physical and logical layouts are quite messy, and I have left parts in that could be useful for other functions. I also still working on it when time allows.

I started with a single phase 550w pool pump and an intex sand filter with SWG unit attached. The following has been added, with the help of the Siemens Logo 8.3 unit and logic:

- VFD control of the pump motor.
- Currently keeping a constant pressure via PI controller to the VFD (just to get to grips with how it works).
- Heat pump control via contactor.
- Web access and control to the Logo.
- MODBUS monitoring.
- E-stop.
- Auto/manual modes.
- Schedules for the pump and heatpump.
- Running hour tracking of both the pump and heatpump.

In progress:
- Control of the Intex SWG. (Relay)
- Addition of a temperature probe. (Analogue Input)
- Control via MODBUS. (TCP)
- Pump dry-run protection. (Pressure Logic)
- Integration with electric billing to run the pump and heatpump at the cheapest slot each day. (Home Assistant automation and Flag in Logic)
- Fixing the heatpump. (Went on hold, heat exchanger needs hot plastic welding)

Learning curves:
- Running the VFD backwards causes the impeller to unscrew and jam. This was accidental and due to mis-wiring. Somehow this did not damage the ceramic seal.
- VFD fuse was too small so it popped.
- Using Loctite 577 on stainless steel or plastic requires SF 7649 activator otherwise it takes a long time to cure.
- Some Intex pumps that have PSC motors can be VFD controlled.

It works.

The pump was using 550w previously but now I can notch it down to 175w.

The VFD is an AT-1 from Amazon, which is supposed to be single phase in to three phase out. However, there is a setting which enables you to use it on single phase PSC motors after removing the capacitor. An analogue output from the Logo then connects to an input on the VFD.

I will collect photos and screenshots of the current mess, and add them to this thread.

Tony

Hello,

Just upgraded my ancient IntelliTouch i9 with a brand new IntelliCenter Upgrade Kit (mfg date of 6/22). My setup is hardwired ethernet. I have confirmed I'm connected to the internet, Internet test passed. In fact, the hardware upgraded to the latest firmware over ethernet and i'm running 1.064. I'm able to connect to the IntelliCenter "locally" using my iPhoen with the IntelliCenter2 App but I am not able to connect to it "remotely".

However, when I try to create new account, the systems times out repeatedly.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Hi All,
Apologies if I am in the wrong section. I noticed the pool water would go down when the pump was in use. So I did all the normal checks but then noticed a dam area between the spa and pool in the corner. We re -sealed the bridge area and it seems this has helped a bit but not completely stopped the water from forming. Hoping to get some ideas on the possibility. I do not believe there are any connecting pipes under. We bought the house around 3 years ago. Grateful for any help.

I had a old JVA actuator, it was sticking so I replaced it with a new one. New one turns 180 without any problem.

However, the old one used to make continuous low tone clicking sound, as if there is a mechanical timer in it. It is not the motor spinning.

The new one surprisingly does it too. I have two JVAs, the other one doesn't make that sound.

And more surprisingly, when I turn all the pool power off from the main breakers, it continues clicking probably because of the electric left on the capacitor in it. Can it be the minor adjustment needed in the control switches in it?

Any ideas?

Prob a dumb question. But what temp can algae grown in a covered pool where the water temp is COLD? I can’t tell u how cold bc I can’t find the thermometer but COLD

This post is about switching from sand filter to a cartridge filter. Let's get some preliminaries out of the way. I've owed two pools since 1996 with sand filters so I'm quite knowledgeable on their operation. I am familiar with cartridge filters even though I've never owned one. I'm not trying to solve a filtering problem. The sand filter works just fine. I'm trying to solve or at least possibly prepare to solve an issue with the backflush water.

I bought this house with a pool that has a sand filter installed. The previous owner hard piped the backflush outlet to the property line at the back of the lot. Behind my house is unmaintained wood HOA land. It is steeply sloped away from my back yard. Below my property is the town's storm water runoff for the neighborhood. The pipe exit is around 4 to 5 foot in diameter. During a rain storm, it sound like a river flowing behind my house. Even though they dumped large rocks at the exit of the pipe, the water flow is slowly eroding the water runoff creek bed. It's cut about a 10 foot deep ditch into the wooded area. I have a good feeling that it won't be many years before the town addresses the issue.

When I backflush, the water volume out the 2" pipe is cutting its own little ditch into the hillside. The backflush water runs directly into the outflow from the stormwater pipe. I have this feeling that the town will not be happy to see backflush being dumped into the woods. Also I'm an HOA board member. It probably doesn't look good that I'm dumping my pool water on the HOA land.

For the above reasons, I'm thinking about switching to a cartridge filter since I would eliminate backflushing. If I do think this is the solution, I have to consider if I want to be proactive and do it now or reactive when the town makes me do it. That may never happen but with the current erosion situation, I think it may be in the next few years. As for different solutions on where to dump the water from the current sand filter, I thought of two. One is to run the backflush to the sewer cleanout in the front yard. That would be a long run to that cleanout and I'm not sure the town would like that either. The other is to remove the hard pipe and just use a backflush hose to dump it on the yard. That really doesn't help much. I'm on a cul-de-sac so my lot is more wide than deep. It's only about 8 foot from the pool to the fence line. Not much yard to spread out the water runoff which would still end up running down the hill to the stormwater runoff area.

If you read this far, would you opt to switch to a cartridge filter? If so, what cartridge filter would you recommend? It shouldn't be hard to fit one in the space now occupied by the sand filter. The current pool equipment my pool has is in my signature. The pump will be replaced sometime in the future since I want to go to a larger one to run the system at even less rpm. I think I've decided to wait until the current one dies but it wouldn't take much for me to change my mind since I don't like the current one.

Today I learned that you can program your pda based system via the web interface if you have an iAquaLink antenna. I discovered this after I disconnected my pda as it wasn’t connecting to the receiver. Apologies if this was known-I was under the assumption that it could not program.

It’s not perfect-as I can’t seem to get my spa lights programmed to Jandy watercolors. But it’ll do until I can find a new pcb board.

Things I’ve been able to do: set pump speed, schedule, set aqua pure, assign jva, name aux among other things.