OK, this is very weird and I can't wrap my head around it...

2 weeks ago, my CYA was a bit low at 60, but I began a travel cycle for work and I didn't really have the time to do anything about it. Since then, it's rained a LOT here in Houston (on the brief time I was home, I had to drain the volume down a bit.

Here's where it gets weird. Due to the rain, salt and calcium are (as expected) lower than last time. By an amount that I would consider reasonable for the rain we've had. But.... My CYA went up. Way up. Like, it's about 90 now, maybe even 100. I have definitely not added any in the last two weeks and nobody else has. The only thing I can think of is that my reagent is old (headed to Pinch a Penny to get some stuff later, so I'll get some new reagent).

Otherwise, the only difference is that we are in the middle of a heat wave and the pool temp went from 80 to 87 in the space of a week.

I'll update/redact if the new reagent shows a number that makes more sense.

Hello,
after waiting for the liner to be replaced (and still not replaced) we are treating the water. The water became a swamp and now it is taking a while. I use the TTf kit for testing. CYA is at 50 and FC is very high as we did a slam shock last night. It is hard to even notice any change this far. Still mostly light green and pump is running full time. Anything else I can do to speed the process of getting a clear water? Thanks

I am toying with the idea of trying to roll one of these. I have a bit of experience with Arduino and Raspberry Pi. However, I need some suggestions on how to measure the amount of chlorine I am dispensing. One technique would be to use a small pump that has a flow rate I can measure, and simply tell it to operate for some number of seconds or minutes. I am wondering if anyone else has done this, and/or can suggest other ways to measure the amount of liquid being dispensed.

A bit after swimming today my daughter started complaining that her eyes were burning and cloudy .. also very red conjunctiva ;((
We have been checking our pool and salt with the Taylor test kits recommended.
Here are tonight's levels
Free cl 5
Ph 7.6
Alk 88
Cal hard 400
Cya 70
Salt 3200 ( measured with salt kit)
We swam yesterday as well with no issues, so I'm at a loss .
This is the first time we have had this concern . We transitioned to a SWG 3 weeks ago.
Thanks for your help!!

Hi

I am in the final stages of completing my new pool build. When the builder installed the liner it was late winter and we had some storms and the decking wasn't done yet. There were a lot of bubbles in the shallow section for various reasons as I'm getting drains put in around the pool when decking goes in.

They just came back, pumped out the pool and touched up the floor and reset the liner. I was out there the entire time and they did a good job and we all couldn't see anything with the naked eye.

Then we turned on the lights tonight and it looks much better. We still noticed a couple of spots with the lights on and I'm not sure what to do next. It's not concrete, but the wife sees a few imperfections and we don't know if this is normal or not for a Vermiculite Floor.

Wife is now very worried.....

Appreciate any feedback and adding the before and after refinishing pictures.

willyk9 said:

Thanks, taking a look at page 8 my software revision 1.45 does not appear to have the setting on the LCD screen.

Think I may have a larger issue which I will post separately.

Click to expand...

I have the same generator, t-5 and v1.45. What manual can I look at to make sure the T-5 setting is correct. Everything works except salt reading goes between 2600 and 2700 causing the generator to stop and start generating which is frustrating. I changed this cell 2 years ago and swear I had a t-5 before. My display also doesn't show tcell setting. Wonder if there is also a way to update SW version. Thanks.

Anyone know of a good outdoor, non powered water softener I can install for my autofill? I’m not sure I want to invest in a whole house model. I’ve seen some non-powered versions, but not sure if they are worth it.

My fill water is about 80PPM of calcium, not as bad as some in AZ, but my calcium level does rise quite a bit by the end of the summer.

Thanks.

Hi,

I have a polaris P9550 Sport. The robot was showing me Error 10, so after searching it says it replace the cord. I replaced the cord and now its working fine, when I was assembling it back together, putting the white gear back on the motor, one of them sounds smoothly while the other has clicking noise and is a little hard to move. I put everything back together and put the robot to work and its moving fine but the whole right side is not moving at all. The active brush, front and back wheels. I opened it up again and put lube on the shaft connected to the motor and it did not do anything. What should I do?

Out of nowhere our brand new Jandy heat pump won’t run. I know the system is at least partially receiving the call for the heater since the pump speed increases when I turn the heater on with our handheld remote.

Since hooking up the remote I never looked at the display but it is on and this is what it is displaying.

A few immediate points and questions:

1) It’s absolutely under warranty so if my simple tinkering doesn’t work we will call for service.
2) is this the normal display code when the heater should be on and controlled by the handheld remote?
3) water is sitting in the bottom, I assume that shouldn’t be an issue since it’s open on top but felt it doesn’t hurt to mention.
4) how do I go back to controlling with the display and not the remote? I’ve read through the manual but I may have missed it.
5) everything else with the pool is functioning as normal, but the heater won’t run in spa or pool mode

@RockclimberKen Hi Ken, I have the identical PCB 8124A board and the exact same PPD Chip [PDA6, P&S 8272] and did what you did in purchasing a replacement board on eBay. It too had a different chip and I was going to switch them out like you did. Before doing that, a friend of mine who is a pool guy said he contacted Jandy technical support and they told him my replacement board would not work because it will have a different software revision on it. The chip in the new board is [PANDS6 Rev. PDA 1.2 8272]. I told him about your experience and asked him if changing the PPD chip out would address that and he said the Jandy Technician said it would not. Wish me luck as I'm about to try what you did. I wanted to actually pick your brain on this if you were free to have a phone call? Thanks, Chris

Moved from here.

I opened up my inground swim spa and found that my two speed waterway pump was seized and had to be replaced. To preface I have a hydroquip 8000 RHS system with M7 probes and a top sizer controller. Unfortunately I found out that they don’t make the waterway two speed pump anymore, called hydroquip and they recommended the two speed LX pump. I bought it and replaced the pump, and when it cycles on the low speed it thinks that there is a flow issue because the M7 temp sensors sees two big of a temperature difference.

The only other thing I think it can be is a leak in the suction side, I have a very small air bubble at the top of the new pump. No pipes are leaking and I checked joints with soapy water, I’m stumped.

I saw someone else on this forum, couple years back have the same issue was wonder on any suggestions.

Mike

@kne
where can l buy the inside pool stairs ?

Moved from here.

I started a thread last week regarding a stain and found out it’s Iron. See pic below. I’ve been reading up and this will be a process I guess.
Im concerned about not being able to SLAM for 2 weeks after AA treatment but will be using polyquat60 as needed while chlorine is low.

Our new robot should be arriving tomorrow. We’ll throw him in and I scrubbed the pool well tonight and added chlorine to appropriate SLAM level.

I guess I’m just talking through this to get it right for my wife over the next couple of weeks.

I’ll try and get as much algae gone as possible and then let the chlorine drop to 0.

Then I’ll have my ascorbic acid, muriatic acid, PQ60, sequestering agent, and then buffers on hand.

I’m sure I’ll have more questions on the process regardless of how many times I read through the AA treatment pages.

Any other advice ?

TIA - Cheers

Hi all. I'm just starting the pool building process. We decided on an inground gunite pool and I'm finding these forums to be a tremendous help. I think we're going 18'x36' rectangle sports OR deep end with spa and sun shelf. I'm here to learn all about the many choices that come with having an IGP installed, along with regrets and must haves.

Thank you all for the information and I look forward to the completion of this whole process!

Hi,
My Aqua Trol RJ unit is reporting a "No Flow". When I turn it off and back on, it will go 5-10 seconds before the "Inspect Cell" light momentarily flashes on and then the "No Flow" light goes on. I've inspected the cell, flushed it out, backwashed the filter, everything looks clean and I have strong flow. It was also working at the start of the season and then just started doing this. The cell is about 5y old.
Given that the RJ unit doesn't have a flow switch, is there something on the board that I can replace without having to replace the whole board or is this simply the cell being at the end of its life?

Thanks!

I am looking to add an SWG to my pool.
Considering the Circupool Edge40, but certainly open to suggestions.

I have seen others post about using a timer switch with an SWG for fine tuning chlorine generation.
What I am curious about is, does "cutting power" to the SWG reset or change the settings? If you "unplug it and plug it back in" (in my case using a relay or timer), do you have to manually press the on/off switch to turn it back on, or will it revert to previous state after power loss?

Perhaps it makes more sense to put a relay in parallel with the flow switch, rather than cutting power if I want to "turn it off"?

I have a Pentair Clean & Clear Pool Filter with Pentair 3/4 Pump
and noticed lately the release valve doesn’t put out as much water as before
I changed out the cartridge filter with a clean one put it all together starting the pump up and opened the release valve and the water only comes about a 1/4 less pressure
Could the release valve have some thing blocking the flow
The jets that feed the pool seem to have same pressure (at least by feel)
I have thought I cleaned out release valve with the hose but maybe not good enough
Any suggestions

I am about to purchase a Hayward TriStar VS model W3SP3206VSP. I currently have a older rev Jandy automation RS8 system. In doing my research of the install document here it appears that I can use the cleaner (not free on my system currently), and the solar actuator ports. My question is if I have an RS8 shouldn't I be able to use the 7th and 8th ports on my automation system (pictured)? Also the color wheel is no longer used just the light, and do I need the cleaner? Thanks in Advance.

Just replaced my agp liner and made cuts for skimmer and return. Everything went smoothly. Then overnight tears occurred in both spots, skimmer and return. UGH!! How do I repair? Am I facing a total loss of the liner and buying another? I called every pool service company I could find within 60 miles and no one was available to replace then liner for me. 60152 zip code, northern Illinois if you know someone to recommend. How do I repair?

I hover around 2800ppm salt in my pool. Until about 18 days ago, at 32% SWG I've been getting a steady increase of chlorine. Today I just did my FC/pH test (I do this every 2-3 days) and FC is actually going down. It's at 4.5 right now and my SWG is at 39%. I know last week we had temps exceeding 100F, so I'm not sure if that had something to do with it.

I'm not sure if this is normal or if my salt levels / SWG has an issue. I can of course bump my SWG higher, but I wanted to check in first. I'm still learning!

PoolMath logs are available if you would like to view them.

I have a 30 year old 33x16 pool im considering a major renovation on. Currently it has 2 home run drains, the skimmer and the main drain in the floor of the deep-end.

A couple of the companies I have spoken to have recommended to abandon the main drain in the remodeling and to replace it with a couple of side suction lines. Is this common practice nowadays? The reasons they cited were that 1) safety of not being able to isolate 100% suction to the main drain and 2) the potential for difficult leaks around the main drain.

Curious to your thoughts on this.

So, I'm heading out of town and RAIN is forecast (chances) for the next 10 days (southeast Louisiana). We have had a bit of a rare drought for the last several weeks but the summer rain is about to kick in (daily rain that just pops up).
If my pool fills beyond the skimmer, will the pump/filter be compromised, as they are scheduled to be "on/running" each day? Meaning, will any damage come to the equipment if it cannot operate like it wants to? Or, is my only true concern the pool chemistry and filtering, etc.?
I appreciate your help. I am a new pool owner (about 4 weeks or so). TFPs wisdom warriors have come through for me in the past and I'm hoping they'll do the same again!!
Happy 4th!!

I have a 30 year old pool and spa with Pacfab Hatteras style lights. The epoxy resin on both lights has started to fail and I'm debating on my next move.

I am considering the intellibrite 5g color for both. Obviously cost is high, but I'm comfortable doing the install. Will these fit in these niches or are adapters needed? I'm struggling to find clear info on that aspect.

Would you go a different route with lighting?

Thanks in advance!

I'm planning on starting the construction of a pool with flush spa during the upcoming weeks. The current plan is to use a single Intellifo3 pump and Intellichlor SWG for the water circulation/chlorination. The attached diagram shows the planned pool/spa piping and valve diagram. One of the Intelliflo3 relays will be used to switch between Spa and Pool mode (energizing the diverter valves actuators), the heater will be manually switch on at this point. The system will consist of 6 pool returns (one of them inside the Spa) and 6 spa venturi jets. When in pool mode the return inside the Spa should circulate and chlorinate the Spa water forcing spa overspill, when in Spa mode the water should circulate and heat the spa water only.

I would appreciate your feedback on the following:

• Is it appropriate to install one pool return inside the spa to circulate spa water while in pool mode?
• Is a Pentair Intelliflo3 3HP pump appropriately sized for 6 spa water jets? No spa blower is currently planned.
• Can the Intelliflow3 control the Intellichlor output % from the selected program? The plan is to use the RS485 comms in standalone mode to communicate with the Intellichlor SWG cell (no further automation is planned at this point).

Any further comments or recommendations would be appreciated.

I moved into this house a year ago and was told the salt system wasn’t functional and they’d been using a service that added chlorine. I kept up with the chlorine, but now want to go back to using the salt system. I have a lot of experience tinkering with Autopilot systems, not Hayward. The display on the board works, none of the lights come on. I did see the check flow light after I threw the breaker, which blinked red and then turned off. Things I’ve tried:
- took cell (t-15) to the pool store and had it tested, it’s surprisingly fine
- replaced flow switch which had its wire cut and poorly spliced several times
- had water tested and added salt
This morning I popped open the case and I think I’m dealing with the burnt out coin-like thing on the motherboard. I took pics if anyone can confirm, and what the steps are to fixing it. I figure if that’s it I can start there and then look at replacing the board. If that doesn’t work.

Went down to the pool and see minor water rising from my auto fill valve port in the deck. I open it up and it is filled with these stringy weeds.

I grappled as many as I could with my hands and poured some chlorine into the port.

What is this stuff and how can I get rid of / prevent it growing?

I've had a pool for 40 years, this one for 4.5 years, and have never seen anything like this.

So after reading many of the pages here about borates, I went ahead and added them to my pool this week - over the course of a few days I added the 9 boxes of 20-mule borax plus 2 jugs of muriatic acid based on recommendations from pool math to reach 50ppm borates. The final levels appear correct based on the borate test strips I bought. My other pool readings are good - pH ended up slightly higher after the process (started around 7.2, ended around 7.7) and alkalinity is a touch higher (ended around 110). All seems well overall. However, shortly after doing this, my wife asked about a small she noticed after being in the pool - could this be from the borates?

Also, some sites mention that when borates are in the pool the FC levels can be reduced slightly - this isn't in TFP's charts - is this the case? Recommendations?

Overall, I haven't noticed much difference. I believe the pool appears sparklier than it was and the water is clear - but then again, it's pretty much always clear as long as I test regularly and use liquid chlorine rather than pucks.
Thanks!

I have a Waterways cartridge filter (installed about 7 years ago) with a 1.5hp, 2 speed pump with a side discharge (to the cartridge filter). The pool is a 15x30 pool. The cartridge is new (installed about 6 weeks ago). Between the pump and the return, there is a Raypak heater, check valve and frog leap.

Recently, when the pump is running on high, it will run and then shut off without warning (the timing it runs varies). When it shuts off, I can flip the speed to low, and after waiting about 10 minutes, I can flip the speed back to high. However, this is short term as it will eventually shut itself off again. The pump will start directly on high. Is this is a symptom of the thermal protection cutting off?

If so, based on the age, does it make sense to replace the motor, or even potentially, the entire pump assembly (including the pre filter basket, etc)? I am considering replacing the entire pre filter as one of the drain plugs leaks and it has been difficult to find a replacement. If so, any recommendations? I am also open to upgrading to variable speed.

Attached are photos of the labels on the pump motor.

(I assume that I do not need to replace the cartridge filter portion since I have no issues with that).

This SaS has a cell that's 1 year old and has had regular cleaning, recently the Problem detected light has come on. Salt levels are right, all other pool chemicals are near perfect. The generating chlorine light will come on briefly after a reboot then goes away. No other lights flash or do anything out of the ordinary. I will be testing the continuity of the cell cord tomorrow, but im hoping someone might shed some light on the issue or at least walk me through any troubleshooting tips.

We have a chlorine tank with an automated pump that runs on a timer. This afternoon, my son accidentally knocked the plug out and plugged it back into a regular socket instead of the one linked to the timer. Basically, the chlorine pump was running continuously for about five hours.

I didn't realize what had happened until AFTER my daughter and a friend had just spent an hour in the pool. As we were getting out, I heard the chlorine pump running, wondered why it was running at a non-scheduled time and figured out what happened.

Just tested the levels — CYA:20, FC: 23.

We had her and her friend both rinse off in the shower immediately and so far they don't seem to be having any other issues from the chlorine exposure. Anything else we should be worried about or watching for on that front?
In terms of getting the chlorine back down to a swimmable level, nothing to do but keep the cover off when the sun is on the pool and wait, right? Pool Math app says the target chlorine for that CYA level is 3-5 ppm. Do we need to wait until the levels are below 5 ppm to get back in the pool? Would adding CYA to get that level back up to 40 help at all?

Any guidance on the exposure for the girls or remediation of the high levels would be much appreciated. Thanks so much!