Uneven infinity edge

New pool just plastered and filled with 40’ infinity edge covered with small 1” tile. PB tried to get it perfectly level but flow over the edge at low flow pump setting is slightly uneven in maybe 10’ of the 40 ‘. Anyone tried raising the low spot along the edge with silicone or something else?

Other possibility is slightly grinding the edge of the tiles in the high spot. Any other creative ideas besides learning to live with it?

Also any recommendations on one way check valves? Pump house is a few feet lower than catch basin and back flow from the pool to the catch basin became an issue when he forgot to put in a check valve.

Thanks in advance.

Stubborn algae and low CYA.

Greetings experts. Yesterday while reading up on mustard algae issues on the site here, I saw CYA referenced. I have taken care of pools at houses I've lived in and had never checked CYA. Today I jumped in, so to speak, and did so. The pool's CYA appears to be low, at ~25 ppm(?). How can I raise it? And is that one reason that I have bad mustard, and perhaps black, algae that is so hard to get rid of? Thanks ahead of time. Cheers.

1st pool - few install issues led to frustration - this place saved me!

Just wanted to say thank you to this group. I am a 1st time pool owner, we just built an 18k gallon gunite, filled on 7/6. Well, 2 of our return lines had issues, one fitting failed and another line was actually (unknowingly) cracked by the gas guy who dug a little too close. Long story short, when the pump turned on it fired a whole load of trash and dirt into to freshly filled, previously crystal clear water. Filtering alone didn't seem to be making any progress, although maybe given enough time it would have. I found this forum, read as many posts as I could about the SLAM procedure, and went to work by purchasing 5 gallons of 10% liquid bleach from Walmart (funny now looking back and thinking 5 gallons would be even remotely close to enough....)

I did have a weak moment where I took my sample to the local pool store, and got suckered/guilted? into buying their Pak 100 and "super shock" But those bags never entered my pool. I continued course with liquid bleach 2 or 3 times a day, testing with my Taylor 2006 kit and adjusting accordingly...

This morning I am happy to report that I can see the main drains through crystal clear water, my FC held overnight (OCLT pass), my CC is 0-.5 (1 drop clears test sample).... Our pool is clear and happy! Now to let FC drift back down to normal levels, get past the 30 day mark and get the SWG fired up (and drop the newly acquired Dolphin M600 in!)

Edit - I tried to update my signature but get some SPAM error
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Intex PureSpa not heating up

Spa has been working great. Our power went out briefly last night due to thunderstorms. I turned filter and heater back on this evening but the water is not heating up.

Temp on control says 91* but it feels more like 75-80. When I turn the pump and heater off the temp climbs to 98-99. When I turn it back on it goes down to 91.

I tried the reset method of unplugging and then holding power button for 10seconds wait at least 3 min and then tried again. No dice. Put brand new filters in and water flow is good at outlet.

RAPID Chlorine Loss during SLAM

Hello, I've been slamming since last Friday (7/7) when I noticed some green algae spots in corners of the pool. I had previously been slacking a bit due to several rainy days and let my FC get below minimum unfortunately.

Today:
FC 12
CC 0
PH 7.2
TA 80
CH 180
CYA 40

Pump running 24/7 at 1725RPM. I have been brushing, haven't noticed any algae spots in a few days and made sure to brush under stairs, ladder etc. Robot runs daily and is emptied daily. Have been checking FC as often as possible (with an infant at home) and topping up to SLAM level as needed. Pool water is clear but I do get a lot of tree debris daily. Emptying skimmer basket multiple times a day and have backwashed once during the SLAM and added DE to my sand filter.

The last few days I have been noticing rapid FC loss as soon as sun hits the pool in the morning. Yesterday I went from 15 FC at 11am (when the sun came out from behind clouds) to 3 FC at 1:45pm. Today I went from 20.5 FC (overshot a bit last night) at 7:15am to 12 FC at 10:45am with sun out all morning.

I've done the CYA test over and over again on multiple days and I am as confident as I can be that it's 40. I am not passing OCLT so there is definitely something still consuming FC but the rapid loss due to sun is puzzling me.

As you all know, liquid chlorine prices are nuts this year so having to continually buy more is quite stressful. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!!
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THoughts on Hayward robotic cleaner

We have the same Hayward TigerShark that we bought when we built the pool in 2008. For the last year we have had to baby it to get it to run. I think it's an issue with the power cord connection, but hubby is not convinced it's worth fixing because of the age of the unit. Sometimes when you put it in the pool it won't start, but if you play with the cord or reverse the handles it usually will start. Reading through the forum, the concensus seems to be the robot cleaners only last 3-5 years, so I guess I should be thankful this one has only required new filters on occassion, one set of new belts and roller covers. I like that it manages the rounded corners, you can adjust how high out of the pool it comes to scrub the waterline, has a long cord, cleans steps and bench with no problems and picks up fine dust as well as leaves. So looking to replace it. Because we has such a good experience, we are considering buying another one... however perfromance of a 2008 model may not be reflective at all of 2023. So looking for anyone who has any experience with a recent purchase and which other robots should I consider?

Hayward OmniLogic HL- Base App Issue

I cannot control my OmniLogic from my app but when I make a change at the panel it reflects on my app. I am connected via an Ethernet wire (hard wired).

I have run the network diagnostic test and have received all checks.

At my network switch the HL Base is reading at 10/100 bandwidth speed. I thought this could be the issue but What is the max bandwidth of Omni hardware?

Anyone else have this issue? For a couple years it has been an on and off issue. I am running 4.8 MSP software.

Hayward is not helpful. Please help!

Winter cover options

Hi,

I'm new to the pool game, just had my inground installed last month. I'm trying to plan ahead for the Wisconsin winters and I need a cover...but I'm not exactly thrilled with the idea of drilling holes into my newly stamped concrete pool deck.

Has anyone had success with using ground stakes around the edge of the pool instead of the cement fasteners? That's the only viable alternative to drilling into my concrete that I've come up with so far.

Is it safe to assume the cheaper covers I've seen that are held down by sandbags won't cut it once the snow starts piling up?

I'd take any/all input and advice on the winter cover options. Thank you!!

How to clean grime from liner of pool I bought used?

I bought a used Intex pool that the previous owner had up for a year and then took down without cleaning it. I got a great deal, and I'm psyched to have it, but the vinyl is pretty grimy, greenish-yellowish. I'd love to restore it to a clean, blue 'like-new' look as much as possible before filling it with water, of course. What's a good way of doing that? Are people mixing baking soda-bleach concoctions? Or do I get store-bought vinyl cleaner? I tried a magic eraser sponge on it to see if it will come off at all, and it kind of did, but I'd go through dozens of dozens of them before I'm half way around the pool...

Another new member.

Greetings all. When it comes to pool maintenance, I have experience but it may not be of any great benefit because I have gotten away with the basics for years. The pool I am presently maintaining was built in the late 1960's and has been re-plastered once over those years. It is in bad need of a new coat of plaster but it's something that won't be done because the pool has significant cracks from geological settling, and really needs to go through major renovation. It will probably be done over the next 2 years or so. My challenge now is to deal with algae that has gotten worse than normal this year. This is almost certainly, at least partially, attributable to the very old plaster, with lots of nook and crannies for algae to make itself at home.

Other crazy issues are that the pool was built with a polished creekstone shallow entrance, which was all the rage at the time. This presents more nooks and crannies, as well as inviting every type of bird and animal to bath, and surely relieve itself, in the shallows. And to make matters worse, the deck and coping is of flagstone, which presents additional places for the algae to cling. The pool has always been a challenge. For now, until the pool renovation starts, my job is to try to keep it decent looking, and perhaps non-threatening, if someone should decide to jump in. Last year I don't think anybody swam in it.

Thanks to the TFP site, I learned about CYA and picked up a kit. The results were quite low at ~25 (whatevers). Last week I put one envelope of chlorine shock in the pool, as well as a gallon of liquid chlorine, on top of the 3" chlorine tablets in the float. And I'll be hogswazzled, virtually all of the chlorine was gone a few days later. I cleaned the filter the hard way last week, as my sewer cleanout is more than 100' away and I hate backwashing down a hill into a neighbors yard. Surely my, or someone's, job will be easier once the pool renovation is complete. Thanks ahead of time for any and all help. Cheers.

n00bie questions...

Hello TFP!

I have been lurking here for many years but just registered this morning

I have had my pool for around 9 years. It is my first pool

Up until now, I have left everything on the settings that the builder put them on 9 years ago. I relied on a Polaris 360 for cleaning, but I have a Dolphin robot en route to take its place (per this forum's recommendation). I have taken samples to my local Pinch-a-Penny, but I'd like to start tackling testing myself

Intelliflo VSP, Pentair 420, Excel cartridge filters (2 years old) and Intelliclor SWG

1. Are TF and Taylor still the go-to test kits (the TFP school article is a little old)? Is one better than the other?
2. Is there a guide for what PSI my clean filters should read at a given RPM?
3. Is there a recommended PSI to have the 360 run correctly?
4. Lastly and most importantly, I have seen what appears to be conflicting information on this... my Intelliclor is always 'on', even when the pump is not. When the pump is off, the flow light comes on the Intelliclor; does that mean it is not producing chlorine? I have read that there is an automatic shut-off when the flow is insufficient (or the water is too cold). Or does it need to be completely shut down when the pump is off?

Thanks in advance. Apologies for all the n00bie questions; I did search before posting

Do I wet my mason sand base before the final compacting pass

I have built my mason sand base over the past couple of weeks (see attached picture) - is it a problem that the sand has dried out because the pile of sand was sitting around in the California sun for so long before I shoveled it into the frame?
I saw people on YouTube spray sand with water as they were compacting it; is that something I should do before the final leveling/compacting pass?

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Robot for brushing mostly

Hey everyone, redoing my pool and my installer has plumbed it for a pressure cleaner (kreepy krauly thing). I imagine this will work well for leaves and stuff, and I imagine I will appreciate that it automatically cleans everyday, but my real question is about brushing the sides with a robot. I know a robot would be redundant and brushing really isn’t very hard or time consuming, but if I just wanted to throw one in each week to brush the sides and bottom, which robot might you recommend considering that the pressure cleaner already did its job. Thanks!

Ready to just throw in the towel

I am feeling really discouraged and anxious about my ability to figure pool math out. Sorry in advance for the long status report and question! I have a small 10x30 summer waves pool. My thought was to figure this out then next summer upgrade. I'm ready to say heck with it. Everything seems so complicated. I have a TF pro test kit.
Anyway, I put our pool up not entirely prepared. Realized I did not have stabilizer which is coming today (chlorox granual). The water sat for a day, kids played, before I added anything to it. After that I added liquid shock as my chlorine (3oz). Next day did the same, chlorine read 0. Next day I added clorox balance tabs to raise alkalinity and ph. Also added chlorine. Still reads 0. Last night, my pool was 0 chlorine, ph 6.8 and I tried the alkalinity test and it's either 90 or 110 (directions say it should turn red but was light pink at 9, darker pink at 10 drops? Was this correct? Or should I have kept going until dark pink became red? Etc.)
I am hoping chlorine reading 0 is from lack of cya. But how do I add the granual stabilizer now? (It will have to be mixed in a bucket, no skimmer on pool). And then how do I get chlorine up? I'm scared of creating an ammonia storm. Please help.
I asked my husband for help and he thinks if the water is kind of clear, which it is, let kids swim. But I don't want anyone to get sick.

Better solution to get rain water off our pool cover?

Hi everyone. We have a 15x30 Pool with an automatic pool cover for use in-season. We use a different pool cover once we close for the season. The problem I have is with the current solution to get rain water off the automatic pool cover. We have one of those little giant like sump pump enclosures that sits on the pool cover, connected to a 25ft garden hose that's supposed to drain water out into my yard. It's plugged into a professionally installed electrical outlet with GFI.

When it works.. it works. The problem we run into are any of the following or all together....
1. The pump just doesn't kick in. I'll go out. it'll be sitting in water. Not pumping. I'll pull it out. Turn it over. Water will drain out... I'll turn it back over and put back on the cover. Sometimes it works.. sometimes it doesn't. I'll do it a few times until it works. Or....
2. The GFI needs a reset. I'll reset the GFI... and it'll start pumping. Or....
3. The hose has been thrown back onto the pool deck by someone who mowed the yard. (we have a service) and it'll be kinked up. So I need to straighten it out, and then do #1 and/or #2.

The question I'm posing is.. is there a better solution than a sump pump... or is there something I'm doing wrong that causes it to not work.. Secondary, is there another option than running a hose out into the yard? I don't know what to ask for other than this doesn't seem to be a very reliable and built-in solution relative to everything else. Appreciate any thoughts!

SLAM Process - Chlorine Staying High

Help! Second year with our pool. Last August the pool turned green and we haven’t been able to get it cleared up. We just got our Taylor test kit and started the SLAM process on Monday night. I have attached a photo of our tests since then.

Obviously we are only a few days in, but chlorine is staying really high. Our home test showed 18.2 FC the morning after we added chlorine, and then 17.5 by the end of that day - not much was consumed. We added another gallon last night for good measure. This morning we tested 22.5 FC at home and were baffled at how high it was so we went and got pool store testing which said it was 14.42. When my husband got back home he retested that same water and it was 17.

Couple questions:
-How do we know our results are accurate? We follow instructions and have watched videos on the testing.
-Why wouldn’t the chlorine drop more on day 1? I’ve heard about people having to add chlorine every few hours to keep it at SLAM levels. How do we know the process is working? The water color hasn’t changed at all. Still green. We vacuumed last night and don’t feel like it did much.

Other info:
-Over the weekend we drained the pool to 1/3 to get CYA down, which it did. We refilled with our well water filtered through an RV filter.
-We had our equipment inspected last year and all checked out. We replaced sand, too.
-We have tried adding Metal Out and floccing the pool with no success. Also lots of backwashing, vacuuming, running pump 24/7, etc.
-We had the store test for phosphate, which was through the roof. But have seen advice that that doesn’t matter as long as you have enough chlorine. Posted those full results, as well.

Any thoughts on our next steps? I feel like we’ve been trying everything.

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Spa vs Pool Chlorine - Algae

Hello, I’m still a relatively new DIY pool owner (couple of years) and I’ve noticed that my spa always grows algae much earlier than the pool. I decided to test them today and the pool is at the target ppm and the spa is much less.
I have a SWG and I have the spa feed valve set to max and the pool return valve dialed back some (in order to get my spillover to work well). If anything I thought this setting would benefit the spa more but it clearly is not. Pool returns on the floor. Any tips on how to get equal chlorine into the spa with a SWG? Picture attached for reference. Thank you!

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Late start

I bought a metal frame pool on clearance last year and thanks to helpful input here, i realize i started too late, triple digit in full swing, and storing for next year, will start setting up in May. in May weather permitting.
I got a inflatable ring pool used knowing they don't last too long especially in the high desert. I am doing my best to level the ground, which is not easy in 105-111 temps. It is 12 feet and 3foot deep. Does leveling need to be perfect? Any margin of error?

Old Aluminum Coping Needs Repair

Hello all-

Been through a lot with this pool but this is the first time I've had to deal with the coping. It's definitely old and is something I've thought about replacing before, but this year two sections have pulled up away from the PT lumber frame that they were attached to, and I don't think I can get them back into place securely enough to really call it a fix. Problem is, I'm completely lost as to how I would go about replacing it. This style seems to be very old and most of my searches for aluminum coping show completely different styles, so not much to go on so far. In the pics you can see the coping and then there are a row of pavers next to it, surrounded by poured concrete that also needs to be replaced (lifted up in a lot of sections, trip hazard and rough on the feet). Not sure if there is a way I can remove the existing coping and put something else down, and then put pavers over top of that up to the edge? Open to any and all ideas, thanks!

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Polaris 3900 sport replacement

My 3900 is about 3 years old.. bottom chassis is all scratched up and worn out to a point that there is a big hold and you can see everything inside. it is also leaking water where the water shoots up to the mesh.

Kind of sad to see its in this shape after only 3 years.

- Would you just get a rebuild kit and rebuild it?
- upgrade to a different model like quattro?
- other suggestions?

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