Ladies and gents, I've noticed lately that I'm getting slightly cloudy water, especially after the pool has been used by the family. Numbers are all solid and I typically run 7FC/70 CYA here in Florida. I am running my SWG pretty high right now but here is the wild card...

My filter cartridge is about 6 months old (bought a knock off Hayward brand) and lately, the PSI runs up fairly quickly so I rinse, drain, and repeat. I'm wondering if the filter just needs to get swapped or maybe I'm fighting algae but it just hasn't turned emerald on me yet. Thoughts?

We have inherited an Intex 6220 swg, and it is said to generate 12 g chlorine/hour. In pool Math there is only one Intex swg with an output of 0,63/24 h.
How is that calculated?
Furthermore, we don’t have percentages on the swg - the output is chosen by runtime only. Can we still use poolmath?

Good evening! My pool has looked spectacular since getting my TF-Pro salt kit a few months ago and learning all there is to know (and still learning) on this forum. All you pros are great and have taught me a lot!

I did a bucket test a week or so ago and definitely have a leak. The builder has been an absolute jerk about the possibility of a leak since I notified him. The pool is 9 months old and still under warranty. We live 20 minutes east of Dallas, TX and the sun is not very forgiving LOL! We have to add water to the pool daily…generally around 30-45 minutes of steady hose water.

The builder finally sent out someone today and they stated the skimmer housing was not glued or sealed at all at one of the couplings. They will come back Monday with their materials to fix it. He said it needed silicone around it. They were a bit hard to understand due to being Hispanic, even though I can speak Spanish to a degree (mostly medical Spanish). Really hoping this fixes things.

Is there anything I’m missing as far as what to ask? I’ve really had to stay on top of things with this builder from the beginning. Definitely peeved about the whole ordeal. When they come out Monday, they will be draining the pool to just below the skimmer to do their work. Not sure how long it will take the beads of silicone to dry but obviously the pump will be off. Anything I should do that morning to ensure the pool doesn’t go sideways on me?

As always, thanks for any feedback you can provide.

Hi all

Mostly new here. I've been trying to treat reoccurring algae for a few months and can't shake it.

Water is balanced. I have been brushing and adding chlorine /acid/baking soda/conditioner/phosphate as needed.

2 weeks ago added Yellow Stop. And still see algae forming on the wall near the spa.

Any recommendations?

Hey all, well.... I'm at it again. Opened to a crystal clear pool, wife helped me take off winter cover. I totally messed up and let a huge chunk of debris from the cover in the pool. Pool went from crystal clear to cloudy blue.

I'm very familiar with the SLAM process, as I did it last year. I have a 17,000 gallon 27ft round AGP SWG (not running during SLAM) 2HP 2spd pump. No ladder in the pool, lights etc. Just one return jet and widemouth skimmer.

Here's where I'm baffled. I use a Taylor kit to check my FC. I'm at about 40-50ppm CYA so I'm keeping my SLAM FC at 18ppm. I'm using 12.5% liquid shock. So last night my FC was @ 19.5 ppm @ 6:30 PM. This morning it was @ 15.5 ppm. Pool is crystal clear, I have scrubbed the walls and using the Dolphin Edge around the clock. I obviously have contaminants in the pool if I'm losing 4ppm overnight. Very windy nights and cold. Not sure that would affect anything.

Here is where I'm baffled. My pool is roughly 17,000 gallons. Every year I use the pool math calculator and it's been spot on. So when it was at 15.5 ppm this morning I did the math to bring it up to 18ppm. Which was I believe 43 ounces liquid chlorine. I go and check about 2 hours after adding and I'm at 19.5 ppm FC? What gives? How is it off by that much? Also, I had a green nasty pool last year and my SLAM process took a little over a week, but it went flawless. This year I didn't turn green and I'm eating through 4ppm overnight? Something isn't right.

Again, scrubbed walls. Dolphin cleaning floor. No ladder in pool. I don't have any lights, etc. Just not making sense.

Any thoughts from the veterans?

Btw... I had a fresh water top of last Tuesday. So I've been at this SLAM almost one week.

Hello all,
I'm wondering if anyone has any referencable industry specifications as to how water line tile should be installed? I've searched ANSI and have articles that reference tile thin set should have >95% coverage for exterior or submerged environments. I also have ANSI/APSP/ICC-5 2011 (R2022) American National Standard for Residential Inground Swimming Pools which covers the specifications of the actual build/structure and this TFP waterline overview.
I'm hoping to find something that specifies the actual mortar application though (troweled). The crew installed the tiles using spot bonding, maybe it's ok in this setting, but nothing I have found confirms that - I did find that ANSI has a few use cases where spot bonding is suitable but it doesn't include this use case. I raised my concerns to our PM and I'll be meeting with him and the contractor tomorrow. Their response was that they've used this team for 100s of pools, no issues, personally guarantee yada yada.

They assured me they'll backfill everything when the lay coping (not sure how the underside would get backfilled?), but clearly there will be gaps no matter how much they backfill. I'm worried I don't have much rebuttal as to the tiles being installed incorrectly without anything to cite. Has anyone else had a similar experience?

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Hello everyone, our pool is 70 years old and the plaster has many discoloration and some stains. I am not sure if it is necessary to be Replastered. I was wondering what would be the cost of it and do we need to drain? Is it safe for the structure to be drained? Thanks!

Really late opening this year- pulled the cover off to a black swamp and low and behold our pump is dead. Will be a week at least before if can be replaced. Should I shock the swamp without the pump or wait patiently looking at the swamp?

Hello from NEGA

Greetings all. Had this pool installed back in March and noticed grout extremely brittle to the touch. Installer has returned to fill in holes. However, it still looks shotty in my opinion and still brittle. Is there anything I can seal this grout with? Is it normal? Am I being difficult? Attached pictures for reference.

Thanks all

Hi, I noticed a few small green spots on the walls of the pool. Here are the current measurements:
pH 7.8
TA 8
CYA 50
FC 6
Calcium 250
Salt 2400

Just wondering what I need to do to get rid of the green spots before it gets worse. Thanks.

I have an inground gunite pool with a built-in spa and caretaker system. Both the pool and spa are leaking 3/4" -> 1" of water per day.

I performed the "bucket test" and validated water loss is the same in the pool and spa, and that the water loss is the same with the pump ON and OFF.

If I understand correctly, this implies either a leak on the suction side or in the structure (drain, sweep, light, skimmer, etc).

I hired a professional that tested the suction side, the skimmer, and the pool sweep return. He told me no leaks were present there and recommended I tape the conduit in the pool light.

I've been looking for leaks with dye around the lights, caretaker returns, and main drains, and I cannot find any leaks.

Questions:
1. Is a 3/4" -> 1" per day leak fast enough to find with dye?
2. I don't see any epoxy or tape around the conduit inside my light (light removed), but I don't see any leaks there with dye either. Should I see a leak with dye when a leak that slow?
3. What's the expected behavior from the dye around a hole/leak in the gunite? Would it settle there, or draw in?

Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated at this point. Cheers!

Hello,

We're down to the final decisions for our pool project: pool finish. The StoneScapes Mini Pebble is our base finish (included in quote), but we saw samples of the Puerto Rico Blend that includes glass beads. The Puerto Rico Blend seemed smoother to the touch, but our contractor said he didn't think it was worth the extra cost (though he'd be happy to spend our money) and that we wouldn't notice the difference once everything was "sanded" down. I'm assuming he was just using simpleton speak for me, as from my understanding, there is now sanding/polishing in the process.

We're leaning towards Tropics Blue.

Anyone have experience with the smoothness and color differences between Mini Pebble, Puerto Rico Blend Small and Touch of Glass?

So I have the cheap little intex pressure side auto cleaner and every few days it manages to get itself stuck under my steps.

Sometimes it will get stuck like that and sometimes it will make it all the way through, but then it’s hose will go under the steps and it can’t get to the rest of the pool. Once it managed to get through and pull through enough hose that it completely wrapped itself around the steps and then got stuck under them.

Here are the steps:

I’m thinking I could just put something under the steps to block the cleaner from going under them but I have no idea what. Something that can stay permanently in the water and either be attached to the steps or be heavy enough that it won’t float away.

Any brilliant ideas?

Thanks

Hello,

I’ve got a manual water fill valve that goes to a PVC pipe that is built into my pool slightly below waterline.

Every time I add water the valve leaks water through the top of the back flow vent thing and seems to do it regardless of how open the valve is.

Any ideas on how to fix this?

Are calcium levels important with a vinyl liner? I’ve never tested calcium levels because I thought they weren’t. But, I was talking to a rep at Majic Jacks about something else (metal staining), and he said mine were too low and it would cause my liner to stretch and ripple.

I've search past threads and found a video that I think is helpful to answer this question...I'm looking for updated information.
We have really hard water from our well. After 15 yrs, we need to replace the PAL 2000 lights. Any tips on replacing them?
My husband is DIY electrically savvy so would like to replace 3 bulbs. Looks like o ring is leaking.

From another thread- It's 11 yrs old
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PB has spec'd an AquaRite S3 and has said I'll be able to control everything from my phone. Salt/Pumps/Valves for features. When I look under automation it's between Omni and Pro Logic. It's hard to understand the differences between the three. Is there an easy resource?

Hi everyone,
3 weeks ago I had my liner replaced and the company sent out a horrible crew. They pulled the pool wall and cause 2 sides to collapse causing river rock to fall 2 ft down. ( Pool is partial buried) Found out Friday that brand new skimmer is cracked and had another pool company come to replace and redo my hard plumbing.
The new pool company is now telling me that they won't touch anything bc I need a new liner! They said the original installers cut the liner too short. I was told it is supposed to be long enough to wrap around the metal wall and then you add the skimmer gasket and faceplate. I called the original installers and they got upset, why wouldn't I call them and this new installer doesn't know what he is talking about. She said the liner is cut correctly and once the screws go into to place the gasket and faceplate will create a seal and it will not leak.
Can any of you look at this picture and tell me if this is cut incorrectly? The cost to add a new liner is going to hit the wallet not to mention we haven't even been able to swim in it this year bc of other pool issues.
Thank you very much!

I have a PCC2000 inground pool cleaner and I am replacing the gear module in the valve port for the second time in 6 years. My question is which is better: the inground pool cleaner or my suction Aquanaut 200 cleaner? I ordered a new module (250 bucks) and it should be running again this week. I am guessing if it keeps the pool clean I can put away the Aquanaut?

Hello Everyone,

Your support is greatly appreciated.

My pool was built in Nov. of 2021 in Cincinnati Ohio. Its a 20 x 40 inground with liner. I have used the pool for 1 season in 2022, and now into 2023. This year I found that the vermiculite is soft where it meets the steel wall in the shallow end in-between a light and return skimmer. I can push with my foot down and feel the give and probably push it further if I wanted, but was concerned. I would say it feel similar to sand or clay underneath the liner. I'm hoping someone could shed some light on my situation. How concerned should I be? Why is this occurring? What can be done about it? Would a leak at the light or skimmer create the problem? So many questions.... The worst area is in-between both skimmer and light, with about 5" from the wall being soft, as you move toward the skimmer it reduced to maybe 3". I didn't notice it last year, but not saying it wasn't there, just didn't do a check.

I'll be doing a bucket test this weekend to see if the pool is leaking, but wasn't sure if this would cause the situation.

Thanks!

Our 2005 inground gunite pool/hot tub currently have limestone coping. As many have found out the limestone degrades over time producing all sorts of rough surfaces and revealing fossils that pop out, etc., etc. The existing deck is concrete with an epoxy textured surface I think was called TuffKote. It's also worn and will likely be redone with that same material. We have no plans to move to SWG from our current liquid chlorine.
I've looked around and am desiring a very robust and cost effective material. Pavers, bricks, poured concrete, etc. all appear nice enough looking but how do they compare in cost, maintenance and lifespan?

Inteliflow does not show display not active, its shows pump speed. Status on Easytouch shows No Comm. I replaced the RS-485 cable but nothing changed. Programs are all set to manual. Intechlor working fine. I reset pump & eashtouch with no luck.

Hello all,
I am a new member as of today.
I live 20 miles south of Houston, Texas.
I’ve recently retired after 40+ years of work.
I’m adjusting to retirement and immersing myself in trying to get my 23 year old 16,000 gl. pool in top shape. I admit that the level of attention the pool has received has been lacking until the past couple years. The plaster is original with significant overall damage (sorely needs replacing). Tile and coping in remarkably good shape. Pentair 60 DE filter (filter grid replacement last fall). I use a chlorine tablet feeder with Leslie’s Trichloro pool tablets. I have the original Polaris 280 cleaner (proudly maintained through the years). I run the circulating pump 8 hours daily 365 days a year.

I am currently battling (for a month now) an emergent “black algae” problem. Found approximately 50 spots on pool floor in shallow end. Deep end appears devoid of any BA. I’ve been scrubbing the spots with a chlorine tablet with some success. The spots that remain are now more brown than black and don’t appear to be growing.

Another concern is with my pH. I am struggling to achieve a pH of less than 8. I have repeatedly dumped the prescribed muriatic acid (I use Leslie’s pool for sample analysis) while adjusting/maintaining Total Alkalinity numbers within range.

I have been adding 1.5# of HTH brand cal-hypo shock weekly (since BA discovery).
Chlorine levels are always maintained in the 1-4 range
Currently pH is 8 (been as high for short periods as 8.5)
TA is 87.
CYA is currently 104.
Phosphate level is in the 450 range

I have read that the black algae can cause pH to be high.

My question is do I need to totally eliminate the BA before I have a chance to gain pH control?
If so, how do I eliminate the BA?

Thanks for reading and I look forward to advice!
Ken

I have a Hayward SuperPump SP2610X15 that was running a non-original motor (Century B129) that has finally gave up on me. I am not faced with a decision on what motor to replace it with as I believe that it was too big for my SuperPump which I would assume came with a 1.5 HP with a SF of 1.0; the B129 is a 1.5HP and SF of 1.3. My setup is simple (single skimmer, no drain) with 1.5" pipes and a Hayward S244T Sand Filter. So my question is the B129 (effectively 1.95 rated HP) too big for my pool and should I be using something close to the original motor? I have looked at the V-Green 1.65 VS motor replacement but I am not sure that I want to spend extra on it since I have an older pump. My AC unit went down and I'm tasked with the expense of replacing it tomorrow so I just cannot spring for the whole pump replacement today.

Thanks in advance.

I have 25ft round ABG vinyl pool. I have had it for 40 years. Discovered TFP about 15 years ago, saved much money and great water with few problems. Every year about this time I get what I call green dust algae. It is not slimy, but like a green dust on the bottom and around the cove area. I never have let the FC drop below 5 this season and the CYA has been 35-40, all other numbers very good. In the past, I would SLAM and the problem was gone. So I used LB to bring FC to 13 to 15 and kept it there for a week. I forgot to mention that the CC was 0.5 and then to 0 soon after the start of the SLAM. I have been running the sand filter24/7 since. The FC only drops 2ppm overnight. The green dust remains. I also took out my pool ladder for 3 days to make it easier to vacuum and brush. I am going to order a DE substitute from Amazon to add to my sand filter to see if this will clear the water and get rid of the green dust. I think the product is called Jack's Magic Filter Fiber. Any thoughts or suggestions?

Pentair Mastertemp 300 shows 1 degree for pool temp. Heater continously runs. I have replaced the thermistor with no change.

Hello, I was getting a Lo code on my heater and replaced a few parts and it went right away, it started up and then went right off, a few times and I received an IF code. I replace the igniter then I got the LO code back. The pool does seem like its not pumping as hard, but the pump seems to be working normally. I cleaned the filter and removed the piping to check for any debris and found nothing. The pump is probably 4 years old - could that be the issue? It's just not pumping as hard as it used to?

Hello,

Long-time lurker, first-time poster.

We are building a pool in Florida. I need to choose a decking material that a) stays as cool as possible in the sun and b) has decent traction (so kids don't slip). Any recommendations?

Based on my own research, I'm thinking a light-colored travertine might be a good option. Travertine tiles come in 1.25" and 2" thickness. Would a thicker tile stay cooler in the sun, or does thickness not really affect heat absorption?

Thank you very much!

im very new to this. i have the taylor 2006-c kit.
above ground pool 8402 gallons. intex 3000 sand filter combo.
PH-7.2
ALKALINITY- 70
CHLORINE- I ADDED 45 DROPS SO I BELIEVE ITS 9 (THEN 3 DROPS FOR COMBINED)
CYA-55
What do i do now?