This year I’m saving $300 (and every year hereafter). I have all the parts I need (blower, modified pentair pump lid, plugs, gizmo, etc.) but I wanted to ask this up front.

1. Our pool company always filled the floating cylinders with pucks. I assume it was TRI-Chlor or something (probably not ideal). If I stay with pucks (I have two floaters), which ones do you recommend? Or just bring pool up to SLAM with liquid and throw the floaters away?

2. Do I need to drain pool below the skimmer?

3. I’ve never brought the salt cell inside and my cell is operating perfectly (and zero calcium scale in it, just checked last week!). Do you recommend a dummy cell or can I leave well enough alone?

4. I need help with order of operations from my MPV. When to connect gizmo, when to do main drains, when to pull pump and heater plugs, etc.

#4 is clearly where I need guidance

Thanks again, as always, for the help!

Hi all,
I’m new to SWG world and could use some help. Here are my numbers taken from Taylor Kit:
FC: 4
Cc: 4.5
PH: 8
Alk: 110
CYA: 77
CH: 200

When I go to Leslie’s they are reading my TA as 62…So I read the post on TFP about SWG, CYA, and TA/PH relationship. The post says the following:

“In practice the concentration of the cyanurate ion is pH dependant where at a pH of 7.0 it is 22% of the CYA. The percentage increases with pH where at a pH of 8.0 it is 36% of the CYA value.”

Questions:
1) I don’t understand what this statement means. Can someone explain?
2) Should I be dividing my TA when CYA is higher? The article states the Pool Math app adjusts for CYA but it’s telling me my ALK is too high.
3) How do I lower Ph and raise ALK? Do I need to?
4) can someone explain how borates would help in this situation?

TIA

New pool owner here… after performing a weekly water test with the TF Pro kit and putting all the recommended chemicals in yesterday, my family and I went swimming today. After about an hour in the pool we noticed a green line on the steps at the water line. Apart from that, the water is crystal clear. I’m guessing I need more chlorine?

So I have a family member who I am helping rehab a large inground pool. I don't think this has been open for 10 years. The fiberglass is shot and has delaminated from the concrete. The sidewalls are blistering. Given the scenario I think it could be a lot worse. The plumbing all seems to be in order. The pump works well and I installed a new filter.

Does anybody recommend a company that will work on this pool?

EVERY SINGLE local pool company has said they are not interested in working on this pool.

There is one option for sure and that is tear everything out and lay new fiberglass and finish the fiberglass with epoxy or another coating.

Are there other options? Skim the concrete and paint with epoxy or another coating?

Any help is much appreciated.

I live in New England and are planning on getting an above ground pool for the summers. Before I start purchasing everything I wanted to make sure I did not miss anything for maintenance along with getting the correct chemicals needed. Listed below are all of the items I plan on purchasing and please let me know if something is overkill or if I missed something:

• 18ft x 52in Intex Pool
• Side Mounted Skimmer
• Pool Filter Sand
• Chlorine Floater
• Pool Vacuum
• Brush and Skimmer Net
• Taylor K-2005 Test Kit

For the Chemicals, I went through the Pool School and think I have all of the chemicals needed but wanted to be sure:

• Liquid chlorine (Raise FC)
• Muriatic acid (Lower PH)
• Borax (Higher PH)
• Arm and Hammer baking soda (Higher TA)

Do I need Stabilizer and Pool Shock as well?
Also do I need the Chlorine tablets in the floater if I use liquid chlorine?
Do all of the chemicals mentioned above come separately or are there some that come together (Example: Arm & Hammer Clear Balance)

I appreciate any guidance that can be provided
Thanks

Hello all, I have been taking care of my pool for about 2 years now and for the most part its been fine. I deal with some scaling and algae blooms here and there but nothing has gotten out of hand. This year the blooms were starting out pesky so I took some water in to test at Leslie's. My CYA level was 140 and last year it was 100. I made the mistake of continuing to use trichlor tabs in my in-line chlorinator. I have since learned I can simply stop using that method and just use liquid chlorine or cal hypo until my CYA levels come down. I know dilution is the best solution for this issue but I would have to drain half of my pool so wanted another option. I first used yellow treat in July of 2021. I bought a single 2lb container and used around 2/3 of it a on a couple treatments probably within that year. All of 2022 I do not believe I used any. This week I used the rest which was around 10oz or so which was the rest of it. I then decided to implement the No Mor Problems into the mix of which I did a total of 17oz after the initial treatment and then a single maintenance dose. All of that being said, I have read a lot in the forums about the sodium bromide issue turning into bromine. My first question is based on how much I just added, what would my current PPM be for bromide/bromine in the pool (17,300 gallons)? Also, although sodium bromide is not recommended, I have a big CYA problem and my FC demand is pretty high. At this point is it either dumping tons of chlorine in my pool or risk building a bromine load that will never dissipate aside from a total drain? The blooms are gone for the moment and im sure the sodium bromide did the job. However, I don't want to cause more problems. It seems clear to me that the initial reason for my algae blooms not going away was my CYA level was so high that my normal amount of cal hypo I was using was not getting me to super chlorination. Anyways, I am looking for some good alpha on if my pool water is toast or if I can simply wait it out for the CYA levels to drop and the bromine to dissipate. Thank you!

After having an above ground pool for two years, we finally decided to have a pool built. We are trying to be very budget friendly but everything is so expensive here, we got several quotes ranging from 60k-130k.

The bad? We have a tiny yard and decided to build essentially a pool covering our whole yard. Initially we were going to find a new home with either a pool already build or more land, but with interest as high as it is and having a 1.95% loan currently it just does not make sense to move.



Initial contract sign, May 2022, permits took a long time and did not come back until sept.




Some info from our builder:

JOB DIMENSIONS:
POOL:

• MAXIMUM LENGTH: 28'
• MAXIMUM WIDTH: 15'
• AREA (SQ/FT): 420’
• DEPTH: 3 ½ ” to 5’ or 6’

SPA:

• MAXIMUM LENGTH: 6’
• MAXIMUM WIDTH: 6’
• AREA (SQ/FT) 36’
• DEPTH: 3 ½”
  

BAJA STEP:

• DEPTH: 18”

STEEL REINFORCING:

• STEEL REINFORCING TO MEET LOCAL ENGINEERING CODES.
• EXPANSIVE SOIL SCHEDULE.
• #3-REBAR, 12” ON-CENTER STRUCTURAL STEEL
• FOUR #4-REBARS IN BOND BEAM CONTINUOUS AROUND PERIMETER INCLUDING
  SURFACE SKIMMER (EXPANSIVE SOIL DETAIL)
• REINFORCING STEEL TO BE ELEVATED TO A MINIMUM OF 2” ABOVE SOIL BY
  CONCRETE SPACERS TO INSURE DISTRIBUTION OF GUNITE. (STEEL SECURED BY HEAVY DUTY TIE WIRE)

• PLUMBING WILL MEET ALL BUILDING AND HEALTH DEPARTMENT REQUIREMENTS
• ALL PLUMBING LINES WILL SCHEDULE 40, 200-PSI PVC PIPE. 2 1/2” ON RETURN LINES
  AND 2” ON SUPPLY LINES.
  
  
• ALL EQUIPMENT WILL BE BONDED WITH GROUNDING WIRE TO SWIMMING POOL
  STRUCTURE STEEL.
• SUPPLY AND INSTALL ALL NECESSARY JANDY THREE PORT VALVES
• CONCRETE PADS FOR EQUIPMENT SETTING
• ALL SWIMMING POOL EQUIPMENT TO BE SET 50’ FT. FROM POOL.
• ALL PLUMBING WILL BE PRESSURE-TESTED THROUGHOUT CONSTRUCTION TO
  INSURE LEAK FREE PLUMBING TO COMPLETION.

POOL:

• 2 - SAFETY MAIN DRAINS
• DUAL PORT SURFACE SKIMMER
• 1 - AUTOMATIC FILL LINE

SPA:

• 2 - SAFETY DRAINS
• 3” CIRCULATION LOW WATER SHUT OFF
• 6 JETS

EQUIPMENT Hayward:

• HEATER 400K BTU
• CIRCULATION PUMP 2 HP
• CARTRIDGE FILTER 560SF
• HAYWARD LIGHT (2 Ea.)

MISC:

• DEDICATED POOL VACUUM SUCTION PORT.
• BAJA SHELF WITH ONE UMBRELLA HOLDERS.
• THREE FEET OF PAVER AROUND THE POOL.
• ENTRY WALL REPLACEMENT:
• TO ADD 18” RAISED SPA
• UNDER COPING OVERFLOW DRAIN OUTLET
• COPING: POURED IN PLACE NATURAL GRAY CONCRETE COPING.

Hi guys,

My pool heater was giving an IF error earlier this season after firing and then shutting down multiple times. I replaced the flame sensor and this seemed to fix things.

A little later in the season, it wouldn’t fire at all, so I replaced the Ignitor and she started working again.
It has quit again, and is giving an IO error, so I have pulled the ignitor and it is covered with buildup and debris. It looks like rusty metal all attached to it.

The screws that hold both the ignitor and the flame sensor in are rusted and rotten to the point where I can almost not use them.

I am frustrated and am debating just getting a new heater, but I bought this one in 2018, so it really isn‘t that old.

I did run my pool for a whole winter during Covid so the heater was essentially on 24/7. Maybe I burned through it’s useful life during that winter!

Any help or advice would be appreciated!

So I have had my pool dialed in for a couple months since finding this website. So about 3 weeks ago I had the two cracks repaired (some of you already know that story). fast forward to 4 days ago and while brushing the typical dirt of my ledges (I dont have grass yet from new home construction) some of the "dirt" would not brush off. I jumped in the pool to see what was up and it appears that its small rust spots. Its all over the two areas that were repaired including on the top edge of my pool that doesnt have water and on my concrete.

i know the dust from grinding was thrown all over those general areas and not cleaned up very well. My first assumption is that the grinding wheel used had metal in its composition and was thrown everywhere and has started reacting with the water from my pool and the rain.

does anyone have any ideas on what this could be?

I was trying to think about this. Does the size of the pool have an effect on your daily chlorine loss? I would imagine the same bather load would affect a smaller pool more, but does loss from the sun change with pool size? I ask because I have a small 8000 gallon pool, and I lose between 3-5 ppm per day. Generally around 3.5-4, which seems a bit high. OCLT is passed, and no other issues. Other people talk of only losing 2 ppm per day, and I’m never that low so far this summer.

I have always used a Loop Lok solid safety cover the past 5 years of owning my inground pool. Last year I had the concrete replaced and I really do not want to go with the anchored type cover. So I have been looking at different winter covers. I have a few questions for everyone that has one or has knowledge about them.

1-Can I place the pump I used for my solid cover on a winter cover to automatically pump the water off when it rains?
2-Can I close my pool as I did with my solid cover(add polyquat, blow out the lines, and drain the sand filter)? I understand that I cannot drop the water down as low as I did in the past.

Any additional info or suggestions on brands would be great also.

Hello
Does anyone currently use the pool sync app? If so I’m curious as to what the heart symbol does on the app? It can be turned on and off.
Thanks

Some guy in New Jersey was flying his drone that dropped green dye packs into pools in New Jersey. Looks like they just caught him, thankfully. Ugh.

Here's a version of the story.

I have a bit of a weird one I can't seem to figure out.

I use two stenner pumps to run liquid chlroine and muratic acid to keep my FC/PH in check.

I have never had SWG and have never used salt of any kind but I do live about 50 miles from the gulf of mexico (houston area)

Salinity 1820 ppm
FC 3 ppm
pH 7.4
TDS 1780 ppm
CH 280
TA 40

I do have some calcium scale build up on the tile around the water line but I can't seem to find anything to suggest this is the cause of the salty taste. (I plan on remedying this soon with some MA spray and elbow grease)

Any thoughts where this salty taste could come from?

I need to close my pool by Friday night; we ask friends to help get the cover on and I need to ask them in advance.
I am confused (about a SLAM) as I read through many posts.
Here's my situation, I'd like some advice.
This summer the chlorine numbers have stayed stable. The time I did a one-night SLAM, it held the OCLT but it took several days to get the chlorine down.
Here are my questions:
1. Do I need to do a SLAM before closing? Or can I bring it up to FC: 5 and put on the cover the next day?
2. What should the CL be when I put on the cover (woven solid cover, with water bags)? My real concern is weakening/damaging the cover (happened in the past) when the CL is too high.
3. I usually use Polyquat60. I read that the CL should not be high when it is added. What is too high?
Thank you!
Test data tonight:
FC: 2.0
CC: 0
ph: 7.5
TA: 95
CA: 9 (vinyl)
CYA: 35
IG 20K vinyl liner, use liquid chlorine

Hi everyone! I’m picking my finish this week and am having the hardest time finding an accurate picture of Stonescapes Aqua White with (and without) Touch of Glass

All photos online seem to be edited.. and the forum with all the colors is not easy to sort through.

If anyone has photos of Aqua White with glass please post!! And any feedback on the finish would be wonderful. Thanks so much!

Might be sabotage, dun dun dun

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What do ya'll think about these gizmos making the rounds on social media?
Solar powered copper ion devices.
Think I'll keep my money in my pocket.

I have rapidly reach the limits of my competence. I’m a new pool and hot tub owner (both came with the house I purchased in April). I have not touched the hot tub until the last several days. The previous owner said something was wrong with some of the jets but didn’t know and didn’t want to fix it. The hot tub is a Nordic Encore.

So fast forward to two days ago and I started my investigation into this hot tub. First, I drained it, cleaned it, removed the jets, cleaned them, removed the filter and cleaned it, so on and so forth.

This afternoon I filled up the hot tub from the filter port to avoid air pockets (which it appears I did). I got the water level to the appropriate level and turned on the pump. Only to find that two of the seats and the lounge seat have weak water pressure while the rest has strong water pressure.

This is where I am completely stump. I do not believe it is the pump as I have strong pressure on three of the 6 seats. Any help would be appreciated. I’m trying to avoid calling in a “professional.”

I had a whisperflo VST installed today to replace my intelliflo VST. We can’t figure out how to connect it to the intelliconnect. Please help!

Swimpure with t-3 cell. Reads 29.2 V, .82 amps , 800 salt.
Turn switch to off for a few seconds then back on, Reads 27V 2.57 amps, 3000 salt, then, after a few minutes, reverts to above readings.
3000 salt reading is correct.
Salt cell bad or Control Board??
Thanks!

I have two related questions regarding tile and grout.

In-ground 13,000 gallon gunite chlorine pool.
Location: McKinney, Texas
Pool Age: 18 years

Q1: I've had one small section of 4 tile pieces that have fallen off. What would be the best product to re-attach the tiles? Since it's just four small pieces, I don't need a large quantity of anything. Just needing something that effectively holds tiles to gunite.

Q2: I've noticed in a few spots that the grout has eroded away. Most specifically at the three waterline fountains and at the grate. So, what product can I use to fill in these gaps. Not sure why it's eroded in these areas, but I assume these are vulnerable connection points and we've had some brutal winters and summers so maybe there's been some shifting.

I'm guessing I'll have to drain the pool a few inches to do these repairs?

Thanks.

First year pool owner, reading on this site I will be getting a TF PRO Kit next season. But below is a posted photo. Am I understanding this correctly? I have zero free chlorine? TC = CC - FC Also, CYA is high and I plan on doing a 23% change this weekend Appreciate any insight thanks

I am looking at buying this cleaner but i cannot find it for anywhere below $1899. I saw in previous post/sales it sold a few years ago for aroun $1599, anyone have any sites that are selling this cleaner for cheaper than the $1899. Thanks all! First post here, look forward to many more.

Had a new whisperflo VST installed today because my intelliflo VST croaked. When we turned it on the salt cell started leaking a lot. Pool repairman says it’s not the switch but from the inside and needs replaced. Would pressure from the new pump cause this?

I am having trouble with my pump and I cannot turn the motor shaft manually at all. It mostly will not start at all, but when it does it will run for about 30 seconds with a high pitched sound (kind of like very loud cricket noise) and then shut off again. Should I start by replacing the capacitor even though the motor shaft seems to be stuck? Just looking for the best place to start. Thanks for any input.

I am having the same exact problem now. I added 4 gallons of shock yesterday with two yellow containers as instructed. I have 30,000. Each container is for 15,000. Completely removed all the yellow dust algae but now I have zero chlorine. Added a gallon today and waited an hour for circulation and took another reading. Still zero chlorine.

How much did you have to add before getting chlorine readings?

We recently replaced our solid safety cover with a mesh cover (going mesh saved us money which is one of the reasons we chose it). We have no internal way to drain our pool below the skimmer...will that be low enough to last us during the winter without an overflow? We live in northeast Arkansas, and plan to open in late April or early May.

New pool owner here. Old pool, old equipment.
We are experiencing air leak, on suction side, I think. The filter canister seems to bubble with incoming air when the pump is shut off, and has to be bled to get suction at vacuum port.
Also unable to separate skimmer and vacuum, which is a new development. Pool store suggested the first 3way valve diverter was bad.
All 3 valves have had diverters and o-rings replaced, as a first step elimination. But air still collects.
This seems to be a tangled mess, that I am hoping to replumb, without all of the elbows. It looks like previous owner has already added and subtracted at the valves, making use of adapters, so I'm thinking we will need to replace the valves, anyway. Yes?
Looking for advice that isn't super expensive.
Thanks in advance!