Starting the closing process (shopping, not actually doing just yet). Few ?’s

[Candurin]

This year I’m saving $300 (and every year hereafter). I have all the parts I need (blower, modified pentair pump lid, plugs, gizmo, etc.) but I wanted to ask this up front.

1. Our pool company always filled the floating cylinders with pucks. I assume it was TRI-Chlor or something (probably not ideal). If I stay with pucks (I have two floaters), which ones do you recommend? Or just bring pool up to SLAM with liquid and throw the floaters away?

2. Do I need to drain pool below the skimmer?

3. I’ve never brought the salt cell inside and my cell is operating perfectly (and zero calcium scale in it, just checked last week!). Do you recommend a dummy cell or can I leave well enough alone?

4. I need help with order of operations from my MPV. When to connect gizmo, when to do main drains, when to pull pump and heater plugs, etc.

#4 is clearly where I need guidance

Thanks again, as always, for the help!

 

[sande005]

This generally covers it: Closing an In Ground Pool

In the tundra, (Minnesota) I skip the algicide, and just use a floater for CL until it is closing time. I usually wait until very late in the year (for us) - temps getting down to the low 40's at night, etc. Yes, algae does grow in cold water, even if not very fast. I have waited too long, and it is not fun when the first winter storm is on the way, it is in the 40's during the day, with rain....so don't push it too far!

I always drain to slightly below the lowest jet. My skimmers are higher than that. Rain and snow reliably refill the pool over the winter for me.

I used to go to slam level on the day of - but realistically, it still usually being liquid for a few weeks before freezing, and any benefit is lost once that gets used up. My cover makes it near impossible to add anything once it is on. Once it freezes, there is no need for CL at all, of course.

This is my first year with a SWCG, so I will be bringing whatever I can inside. I am using a dummy primarily to prevent furry creatures from getting in an open pipe over the winter.

In my area, the key is to uncover ASAP in the spring. Yes, at times there is still a giant ice cube in my yard. I don't start up anything until I am sure the temps are reliably above freezing, and then just to get circulation. Add liquid CL to prevent growth as needed. Wait too long to uncover, and you will be surprised by bright green. Once water temp is above 50, I'll start paying a bit more attention to CL level, and as it warms more, to all the other chemistries.

 

[Newdude]

For your setup, this would be my plan

1) oclt
2) slam and/or close at slam*
3) drain below returns
4) pull pump and SWG
5) blow each leg back to pool
6) airlock main drain (if applicable)
7) install threaded return plugs / gizmos
8) blow MPV/filter / heater as 1
9) pull their drains (and pump)
10) use bendy funnel to add 1 gallon antifreeze per pipe, half a gallon from each end
11) reassemble equipment and dummy cell
12)cover pool.
13) open early

*for step 2, You can close at half slam and add algecide instead of full slam.

I documented mine last year.

Closing with shop vac.

Today was the day for closing and it went great with a 6HP shop vac. I hooked my blower up for fun after, and there really wasn't much left but some spray. Anywho I wanted to do a write up for all the folks wondering if they could save a chunk of change and tackle their own closing...

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[Candurin]

For #2… does this apply to our fiberglass pool? I think all my current closer did was lower to below skimmer level. Two years ago, they didn’t. Water was surrounding the gizmo.

We have a solid cover, FYI.

 

[Newdude]

For #2… does this apply to our fiberglass pool?

I believe you meant #3, lowering the water. That's a personal decision as far as how much goes. You can blow the returns under water with blow though plugs, or with adding the threaded returns while air is gushing out, but it's a little tricky.

With a solid cover you can leave the water level higher. With a permeable cover, you want to lower it more so you buy more time until it's full again. We get about 3 ft of off-season rain / melted snow in the northeast so you'll need to occasionally drain some. It's up to you if you want to start a foot low amd drain another foot twice, or 6 inches 6 times, etc.

 

[Candurin]

Yeah, sorry; it was #3.

To be fair, in the 3 years we’ve opened the pool. The water level has been almost identical in the water at opening as it was at closing.

The returns have always been gurgling with air when they put the plugs in. Id prefer to do it that way. Having said that, I assume the gizmo can be done the same way? It has a removable rubber plug on the top, which I guess is for that purpose?

As far as #5-8, I assume that I can handle the skimmer first and then main drains (basically do the auction side first?).

I should have paid more attention then they closed, I guess I’m just more confused on the process itself. I have made a modified pump lid and was going to handle all the air movement from there.

How do you position the MPV to blow out the returns? I guess keep it on recirculate? I figured I’d blow out the returns first, plug them and then move to the suction lines (skimmer first and then main drains).

Apparently, I’d like more hand holding than I care to admit! This is one of those things where if I do it wrong, it’s bad

 

[Newdude]

To be fair, in the 3 years we’ve opened the pool. The water level has been almost identical in the water at opening as it was at closing

So, solid cover then ?

The returns have always been gurgling with air when they put the plugs in. Id prefer to do it that way.

Bungee plugs blow through and self seal so they're a great option too. They also make 'duck plugs' but mine was chintzy and the ice pulled the cap off so I don't trust them.

I assume the gizmo can be done the same way? It has a removable rubber plug on the top, which I guess is for that purpose?

Yup. Install it and it's higher than the water level. Remove the cap, blow, and put the cap back on.

As far as #5-8, I assume that I can handle the skimmer first and then main drains (basically do the auction side first?).

If you get them all, order doesn't matter. Tomato Tahmato.

How do you position the MPV to blow out the returns? I guess keep it on recirculate? I figured I’d blow out the returns first, plug them and then move to the suction lines (skimmer first and then main drains).

Their are several ways / orders and again, as long as they're blown, it's all good. You can empty the filter and blow though it in regular mode, or leave it full and blow on recirculate and then empty it after. Or empty it and blow on either setting. Lol.

You just can't blow with any drain plugs removed. Any air escaping hinders the process.

Apparently, I’d like more hand holding than I care to admit! This is one of those things where if I do it wrong, it’s bad

It's a huge deal at first. Your second rodeo is much less stress. Rodeos 3+ are second nature and what took hours the first time takes minutes after finding the method that worked best for you. I blew mine twice in the link I posted just to compare them. It was 30 mins total, including filling the pipes with a hose in between.

 

[Candurin]

As a scientist myself, I’ve accepted the fact this is NOT rocket science!

I’ll take my time and enjoy the process