I am going to convert my pool to use a Pentair IC60 SWG for chlorine production and I have a question about the plumbing. I have an Intelliflo3 pump for may main filter. I usually my pump just enough to make sure the skimmers are working properly. Sometimes I run it a higher speed to push extra water theough some bubblers for my toddler grandchildren. Somewhere over 2,400 RPMs I exceed the 80 GPM threshold Pentair says requires a bypass loop. (I wish I had put the bubblers on a separate pump but that is a topic for another thread.) The Intellichlor installation manual shows a diagram with a flow control valve in the straight pipe that bypasses the SWG. What can I do so that I get enough flow to the SWG at the lower speed, probably 1,200-1,400, but allows the over the limit volume to bypass the SWG without having to manually set a diverter valve when I change speeds?

Hi!

I am planning on closing my pool next weekend, but I think my pool filter is at a point where it is due for a backwash. I would hate to backwash and then waste adding DE back to the filter because I plan on taking the DE cartridges out for the winter. Am I able to to do the backwash and remove the cartridges and then go about closing the pool as usual without the cartridges in the filter?

so in short can I shock my pool and run the filter for a day without the DE cartridges inside the filter, or could I backwash and shock the pool the day before, and then run the filter without adding DE for a day?

Thank you!

I have a Hayward VSP with a Prologic that I control from the AquaConnect app. The app stopped responding last weekend, and the Prologic is throwing a VSP Comm Error. The pump does respond to commands from the Prologic keypad, so the error message is confusing.

I tried power-cycling the Prologic - still throws the error. Also just power-cycled the AquaConnect bridge (the black device that sends wireless signals to the base station), and now the app is throwing a "Base Station Not Responding" error. Before it was just blank. The lights on the bridge are flashing, so it appears to be working.

My normal assumption from these symptoms would be that the base station has crapped out, but the VSP Comm Error is confusing. Any ideas?

Edit: Mods, it might make sense to move this to the automation section.

I've been searching on this site (which has been enormously helpful to me in my 13 months as a pool owner) and online in general for information on troubleshooting Polaris robotic pool cleaners but haven't found what I'm looking for. The short version of the story is that I left my robot and control unit outside in heavy rain and now it doesn't turn on. The control unit was connected to a GFCI circuit that didn't trip, and nothing else on the circuit lost power or functionality. There's zero sign of water entry in the control unit which, while not intended to be left out in the rain, is pretty nicely sealed against water entry anyway. It's been a lot of years since I was actively working in electronics, but I do have basic electronics skills and I cracked the control unit open and checked incoming power and the power supply fuse and that's all good. There are no visible signs of damage to the boards or components.

My question, if you're still reading, is to ask a fellow owner of one of these to tell me whether the control unit powers on (lights up when you push the buttons) if the floating cable to the robot is disconnected from it. I don't remember and probably never tried, and can't find the answer to this simple question online, and before I go on focusing all of my attention on the control unit, I want to make sure that, with the robot cable completely disconnected from the control unit, the control unit should still show signs of life (lights). If not, my control unit may be okay and the issue might be with the robot or the floating cable between. It's possibly that the electronics and wiring were designed such that if the robot's not connected, the control unit doesn't receive power. So if you have one of this model would you please try that and tell me? Thanks in advance!

I'm going to attach some photos just for fun and because it doesn't cost (me) anything.

DTShreve said:

I'm replacing the diffuser on my pump but I can't get the screws holding the diffuser in place to tighten because the hole threads are stripped. I'm thinking of using an adhesive to keep the screws in place. What underwater adhesive would work best in this situation, or do you have another solution that's worked for you? Thanks.

Click to expand...

Were you able to fix this? Did Helicoil work?
thanks, David - Dallas

My Raypak 266A (installed in 2007) sparks, the pilot light is lit, but the main burner does not light. The unit is not displaying any codes. Can anyone help me as to how to do a diagnostic to figure out which component is bad? I do have a multimeter, and while not an expert, I know the basics. Any help is appreciated. Thanks!

My Pentair Intellibrite 5g color led light's engine stopped working. No apparent burn marks but notice that even though my PX300 was wired for 12v i'm getting nearly 13v at the unit (wired correctly per the label).
So:
can anyone tell me what the tolerance of this engine really is (don't need to burn up a $600 part)?
since the PX300 also have provisions for 13v could my unit have gone bad since wired for 12v it is outputting a higher than the listed 12v AC?

I am currently running an Intermatic RC2163BFE (https://www.intermatic.com/Product/RC2163BFE) that is failing. I've had to replace the heater control board and luckily was able to find one for a reasonable price (used) on eBay. I'm not even sure I could get the part new anywhere at this point.

I'm thinking the Pentair IntelliCenter System (Load Center with i5P Personality Kit) - Part number 523448 but I'm not really sure that is the correct one (very confused).

I basically want to have the ability to turn on the spa (currently a very simple rotary timer switch to activate the actuators), monitor the pump (remote/WiFi/app) and allow the heater to work. I don't think I need to do anything for the SWG as it just comes on with the pump currently (but again, I may be not understanding).

My equipment is as follows, any advice is welcome!

At some point I will also replace the gas heater with an electric heat pump - but not for a year or two.

so is ecofill better than replastering pool? I heard it lasts 30 plus years and replastering lasts 8-10. We just replastered and i now am figuring this out!

Please advise

A brief timeline of events

September 2021: No issues closing and pool company A said no problems flushing my lines.

May 2022: Pool company B installed a new liner in pool.

September 2022: Pool Company A says the line from the skimmer to the main drain is clogged. Pool is closed as it happens while im not home.


September 2023: I remember the clog issue and I inspect the main drain and find this. It looks like the main drain was plugged by pool company B who installed the liner.

My question is do I leave it? Did they forget to take it out when they installed the liner? Is there a benefit to this? They are closed till Monday and I’d like to get this figured out asap.

Any insight would be appreciated.

range of cost to replaster
We have a 32x16 gunite pool. It needs to be replastered and two skimmers replaced. I just got our first bid - nothing fancy - just replastering and replacing skimmers with Sta-Rite U3. Total is around 24K, does that seem reasonable for just basic replastering? We'll look into additional bids, but not too many folks out here in the Pacific NW who do pools.

Pool deck materials. Concrete or tile? Do we have to have concrete as a base no matter what?
We're also going to have to replace the pool deck - that's a separate contractor. Not sure if we should be contacting the concrete company no matter what, even if we do want to have a tile pool deck? Is concrete better than tile?

Thanks to this group for any insight/perspective you can give!

Hello all
I found this minutes ago on the pool's floor, and I can't see where it belongs.
It's either from my Betta solear skimmer, or my Explorer 30.
Looking at both devices, I can't easily tell.
Might someone know?
Thanks

Hi Everyone!

What would cause high filter pressure on a brand new FNS60? On startup the pressure shot up to 30psi and remained the same after adding the required amount of DE.

EQUIPMENT SETUP

Pump - Pentair Whisperflo 1.5hp
Filter - Pentair FNS60
In-line chlorinator
Heater - Mastertemp 250

I bought a K2006 (not the C version) for testing this year, since the C version is basically impossible to find up here in Canada. Since then I have bought the Speed Stir with vial, a few bottles of larger 2 oz reagents, the SampleSizer, etc. Basically all the testing supplies don't fit in the box anymore, and when I replace my reagents I will buy the 2oz bottles so even less room soon.

My questions is does anyone else use a different storage/transport box to store all their stuff? I was thinking of grabbing a Pelican Case or something similar, but that seems excessive for what I need.

Hello All,

I’ve kept my 14k plaster pool up and running through the winter with small top offs of bleach and acid.

I’m in the process of getting things ramped up and I’m having an extremely difficult time with some stains that are most prevalent on my wet deck and spa bench. At first I figured it was just extra alkaline fine dirt that gets kicked up and settles after windstorms (most of my neighbors still haven’t landscaped their backyards). However, this stuff does not budge. It feels like the dirt has literally turned to cement and is embedded in the plaster now.

It feels rough and looks identical to dirt but no amount of acid, direct application of chlorine, or vitamin C makes a dent. Even when I scrub with a scotch brite pad it may slightly lighten the stain but does not remove it.

Has anyone in the Southwest run into similar stains on their plaster and have any idea how I can get this stuff off?

I tested my water today with the Lamotte ColorQ 2X and these are my current results:

Temperature: 60.5 degrees
Salt: 3650
PH: 7.8
FC: 6.8
ADJ ALK: 112
Cal Hard: 552
CYA: 80
FE: 0
CU: 0

I have an Aqua Plus controller and am receiving the "Communication Error" on the local display.
I have followed the steps in the "ProLogic Diagnostic Manual" down to where everything is disconnected.
I have checked continuity for the cable to the local display.
Checked all the fuses; etc.
Any ideas on what to do next?

Hi all! I’m new to this. I have 24’ above ground pool. It’s 3 years old and I noticed small sinkholes ( at least that’s what I think they’re called) in several areas. They’re a no specific pattern to them. I also felt two rocks. I’m not leaking any water. Should I be concerned and is there anyway to prevent more from occurring? We do live on a sloped lot and the pool is dug into a small hill.
We also have a deck around the back side of the pool. I thought maybe the water that collects behind the pool could be eroding the sand and soil since the water has to go somewhere. Anyone have a thought on that? Any advice or comments would be appreciated. Thanks all!

I am closing my pool up and I was balancing off my chemicals. I was going to add a little more calcium which I should have just left alone but I instead I added cya directly to the pool because I was distracted.

I have brushed most of it up. And don’t see much on the pool floor.

Tomorrow I was going to vacumm, make final adjustments backwash tge filter and drain below below the skimmers.

the directions say to keep the filter running for 48 hours. However I’m in Massachusetts also dealing with some wind from hurricane lee and with leaves falling in the pool I don’t want to keep it running overnight or for too long.

I don’t care about tye cya rising as I only added 4 pounds and my cya is under 50 with a 28,000 gallon pool.

My two questions if it looks like it is Al dissolved do I need to keep the pump running, will it cause any harm if I finish closing tge pool up Monday even if there is some not dissolved.

The second question will any undissolved cya left on pool floor I have plater, pebble tech do any harm.

Last question if tomorrow I need to adjust my ph and add acid will that cause any problems if there are undisolved cya floating around?

Finally shoukd I vacuum before tomorrow just to make sure I get it up.

I cannot believe I did that?

Thanks in advanced for any advice.

Hi TFP, after long struggles being mislead by pool stores, my pool has been great thanks to you, thanks! I moved into a house with a pool late last year, this is my first season with a pool.

But now I'm in a jam. My pump just stopped working suddenly, a Hayward 1.5hp Super Pump, and my closing is in 3 weeks. It's only been 2 days now, but there's already a bunch of leaves already on the bottom. Not sure how long before water turns. I feel like I don't want to buy a new pump and burn all the extra warranty time just sitting there closed to keep it open for a couple weeks open where it likely wont get used anyway, but I'm not sure what would be best, or how I'd get all the leaves and stuff out in the next 3 weeks without a pump.

Checking the pump,

• There's no humming
• The capacitor I guess is in range?
  • Should it take this long to read (about 50 seconds to show the right reading)? Is my ~15yr old multimeter just not good? Login to view embedded media
• There's power, reading 245V at the pump with it switched on

Anything else I can check on the pump?

If I should just go get a pump, any suggestions on which?

Well, just closed her up today, it was a great summer, sleep well my friend!

My local brick and mortar store told me they would give me a big discount on their salt if I got the system through them. Normally they sell it for $41.99 for a 27.9# bag but my price would be $16.79. Morton pool salt at HD is $7.18 for a 40# bag.

Salt is salt, right?

Hey Guys

When it comes to vacuum hoses there are two different types of them:

1-Spiral Wound
2-blow molding

Does anybody know what the difference between these two are?

Thanks

As the title suggests, I am looking for suggestions from the experts here on options I should consider and either purchase or request local dealers/pool companies for quotes for in this situation:

My pool pump started running really loud lately. It's a Pentair WhisperFlo WF-28 Pump – 2HP – P/N 011774. It's now nearly 6 years old. I've regretted getting a single speed pump with this pool ever since I learned more about things. It needs to run a lot given that I have a SWG and the pool is exposed to the full Texas sun, and obviously this pump is not the most energy efficient. So, now this seems like an opportunity to do something about that rather than just go for the cheapest fix and try to replace the bearings or replace the motor like-for-like.

Some questions I have that I would appreciate some expert direction on:

• Can I just get a "generic" two-speed motor and put it on the existing pump? Is there a specific motor I should consider to make this as easy as possible?
• If I can just put in a simple two-speed motor, how do I control switching between low and high speed given that I don't have any automation and only 2 mechanical timers (1 for the pump and one for the cleaner booster pump, so I think I will need to keep those dedicated for those tasks and won't have an extra to control low/high speed timing)? Or is just low speed sufficient to run all day for everything including when the cleaner booster pump runs and then I'd only need to switch to high when I'm using the spa (for which I have to manually turn the valves anyway).
• Does it make more sense to just spend the money and get a variable speed pump? Is there a specific model that would be an easy replacement? I understand in that case there would need to be some re-wiring to control the SWG on the timer, which I think I would need to outsource as I'm not that comfortable doing electrical work myself.
• Other ideas I should consider?
• Assuming I'm reasonably comfortably with mechanical DIY work but not electrical, what kind of firms do I reach out to for quotes to install this or just buy parts to install myself. Is it a retailer like Leslie's or a pool builder, or even online companies? This is the first time I'll need to have a major part of the equipment replaced that I'm not sure I can do myself, so I have absolutely no experience with this.

Basically, I don't want to just walk into my local Leslie's and ask them this same question since I assume I'll get pool stored, so I hope I can get better educated here first.

Thanks!

I watched white powder buildup on the bottom for the past two years, and finally gave in and vacuumed it out today. I would appreciate some ideas on measures that I can take to prevent more white powder buildup.

A few observations that might be worth reflecting on:
(1) Over the life of this pool, I am constantly fighting high pH. I chalk this up to fill-water chemistry. I add muriatic acid to push down to 7.5'ish, and then in 7-10 days (if we've had no rain) it's back up to 8.0'ish.
(2) I get some scaling on the leading- and trailing-edges of the SWG. It's never been so significant that I bother to ever clean it. Maybe I should be?
(3) When my IC40 failed - I replaced it with an IC60. I did this because my IC40@100% could barely keep up without running the pump for 20-hours in the summer. This powder-accumulation really accelerated once I upgraded to the IC60.

My most recent test results using my test kit:

• FC 5.5
• pH 7.8
• TA 80
• CH 575
• CYA 80
• Salt 2900
• Temp 91F
• CSI 0.27 (calculated by PoolMathApp)

Thanks!

Hello,
There is so much written about leaking gaskets that i thought i would ask.
I purchased a Superior-Pro lens gasket. Looks nice but the original was pure white whereas this one is yellowish. Anyone with experience with these? Quality any good (evidently made by Aladdin)? the Pentair brand is nearly 4x the cost. the light engine was $600 so just can't afford any leaks that would take out my new board. $50 would be cheap insurance if indeed it is any better/different than the one i already have. Hate to spend that difference if they are all made by the same company but priced by name brand.
The other is that i read that they should be lubed (sparingly) while other places say to mount dry. Appreciate knowledgeable replies
Thanks
Marino

Quick question for everyone here. I've had the same pool cover since I moved into my house 8 years ago. Its a solid cover, and just this past year started getting small holes/breakdown in the material. There is no brand name or identifiers that I can see, but I'd love to get the same cover this year to replace it. So, my questions is what has been everyone's experience with above ground pool covers and durability. Are there any brands that seem to hold up year after year?
There are so many options online, but I get stuck on the reviews showing them ripping or breaking down after half a winter which is making me apprehensive. I live in CT, so it gets cold/snowy here. Any specific recommendations would be awesome! I also don't mind paying a premium for a quality cover that will last me. Thanks!

Emptying pump basket this morning. Everything sounded normal prior to shutting pump off. Emptied basket and resintalled/re-started pump. Pump wasn't priming or drawing water like normal. Shut it off right away, checked everything over. Nothing in the impeller that i could feel. Re-started but still wasn't pulling water like it should. Finally went and checked skimmer, pulled diverter assembly out and noticed the sliding flapper valve on bottom of diverter had broke off and was blocking half the suction line in bottom of skimmer. Removed and everything is working fine now. I have googled and searched but want to confirm that running with no 'flapper valve' on bottom of diverter is fine.

Trying to determine what kind of upgrade kit/part number I need for an Aqualink RS8 All Button revT.2 system, I've seen the Jandy recommendations:

But not sure where the rev T.2 falls. I don't know when my system was installed (bought house with this system so don't know what year).

My question is, can I increase flow back to a pool water feature by increasing pipe size from 1.5 to 2" on the pool pad outlet side only and not changing anything else?

Our pool was originally plumbed all 1.5" with a 18" Sheer Descent, stair jets, return jets and with a Pentair Superflo VST it all runs fine, if we want a little more output for the sheer descent towards the end of the season, we can crank the RPM and just close back the pool return jets a little to force more flow through the water feature return pipe. The run is about 60+ feet filter pad to water feature and 1.5' above water level, with very minor slope up to pool (no check valve was required). I physically measured the flow (bucket and watch method) from the 18" Sheer Descent at full RPM (3450) and only waterfall valves open. It was about 33 gals per minute, but it's also the end of the season and the DE filter is starting to restrict the flow by at least 20%.

We have no reliable pool company that I can get a straight answer from at the moment.

We are replacing the patio and coping above the sheer descent and were hoping to install a 3 or 4' sheer descent in place of the 18" one and continue to use the main filter pad pump. So I thought about upgrading the output side of the pool plumbing to a 2" pipe run. Before I commit to an installer, I am trying to determine if this alone would this help increase the flow in the pipe to more adequately supply a 3-4' Sheer Descent with a small projection?
My read on the Sheer Descent specs seem to indicate it would work up to about a 3' sheer descent, but I'd like to install a 4' one and be sure it would work, but don't want to commit only to learn later it isn't enough flow.
Moving to a 3hp Intelliflow is a possible future option, but the Superflo VST still has some good life in it.

The cost to install a separate run, cut new dual inlets and separate pump goes above our available budget.

The freeze protect setting on my system keeps turning on and running my equipment when I don't want it to run. Wondering if any of you have had this issue before and trying to find the most likely equipment problem.

The controller says the air temperature is 33 degrees (I live in Houston, where it has been 100 degrees for the last four months), so the controller persistently tells the system to run.

The controller is the Zodiac/Aqualink/Jandy 8265. All of my other equipment is Jandy. Is this more likely a problem with the sensor or the controller? Advice or troubleshooting tips?