White slime in cartridge filter

[jkeefauver]

Test Kit came. Results:

CYA: 60
PH: 7.5
FC: 20.5
CC: 1

Based on what I've read thus far, that CYA is awfully high which makes little sense as it wasn't even registering on the pool store test strips in the Stabilizer category. I ran that test twice, the first time was more like 65. Now what?

 

[jkeefauver]

Have Test Kit now. Results are here:

CYA: 60
FC: 20.5
CC: 2
PH: 7.5
Alkalinity: (unknown - never turned red, just yellow after 21 drops)

Seems that things are out of whack. I didn't even show any stabilizer on my prior test strips yet it's reading 60 after two tests. So....now what?

 

[borjis]

Test Kit came. Results:

CYA: 60
PH: 7.5
FC: 20.5
CC: 1

Based on what I've read thus far, that CYA is awfully high which makes little sense as it wasn't even registering on the pool store test strips in the Stabilizer category. I ran that test twice, the first time was more like 65. Now what?

You pick the number nearest to the markers on the test vial, since the test only works that way.
That would likely be considered cya of 70 then, which is very manageable but would be good to reduce in the near future.

 

[jkeefauver]

You pick the number nearest to the markers on the test vial, since the test only works that way.
That would likely be considered cya of 70 then, which is very manageable but would be good to reduce in the near future.

So how do I reduce CYA and isn't that alkalinity really high? Or should I just jack up the chlorine to the slam level for 70 CYA?

 

[borjis]

So how do I reduce CYA and isn't that alkalinity really high? Or should I just jack up the chlorine to the slam level for 70 CYA?

You have to replace water do reduce cya. draining a foot or two at a time then re-filling will get cya to a desired number.
Not sure what is going on with your TA. mentioned turning yellow and I didn't see a number posted.

If your ph fluctuates a lot then adjusting the TA will help.
I know my pool is rock stable ph with a TA of 70.
Each pool is different but some have gone as low as 50 to stabilize ph drift.

But let's first get a good solid number on that TA before doing anything.

Also with a FC over 10, your ph test will show as higher than it actually is.

 

[jkeefauver]

TA turned from blue to yellow at 21 drops.

 

[jblizzle]

TA turned from blue to yellow at 21 drops.

That happens when your FC is high. Test is still valid, just the colors are different. I would not worry about the TA ... just keep the pH in range and the TA should slowly come down.

A CYA of 70ppm is manageable and if you get rain and can pump off the pool it should slowly come down (assuming you are not using Dichlor or Trichlor in the pool).
Continue to follow the SLAM Process process with your FC at 28ppm
and then keep your FC above 5ppm at all times, or replace water to lower the CYA first.

 

[Teald024]

If the pool is blue but cloudy, then you can perform the SLAM process without draining if you want. The biggest issue is that you will go through more testing reagents since you need to keep FC very high. CYA will come down over the season as you drain from rain as long as you aren’t adding more.
The TA test going to yellow is ok and is still valid. It is due to the high FC.

 

[jkeefauver]

That happens when your FC is high. Test is still valid, just the colors are different. I would not worry about the TA ... just keep the pH in range and the TA should slowly come down.

A CYA of 70ppm is manageable and if you get rain and can pump off the pool it should slowly come down (assuming you are not using Dichlor or Trichlor in the pool).
Continue to follow the SLAM Process process with your FC at 28ppm
and then keep your FC above 5ppm at all times, or replace water to lower the CYA first.

Added more 10% to get the FC up to SLAM levels. Ran TA test again, turned yellow same place.

 

[Teald024]

Ok, when it turned yellow, that is where you stop the TA test in your case.
Once in SLAM mode, you only need to test FC and CC. Ignore other tests for now. Maintain FC at SLAM level.

 

[jkeefauver]

Ok, when it turned yellow, that is where you stop the TA test in your case.
Once in SLAM mode, you only need to test FC and CC. Ignore other tests for now. Maintain FC at SLAM level.

Okay, I have begun SLAM. FC is 28 against the CYA of 60-70. TA is still way high but will ignore for now. My understanding is that I'm done with sLAM when the cc is .5 (mine is currently 1), I pass the overnight test and the water is clear. I intend to test FC/CC in morning and maintain the 28ppm until the filter manages to clean the water. Is that correct? I have this Polysheen Blue stuff from ps that is supposed to help clear the water. I have not added that, should I? Also I have Chlorox Xtra blue pucks but have taken them out of skimmer as I'm using the Walmart 10% liquid for now trying to follow SLAM recommendations. Is this all correct?

 

[jblizzle]

Sound like you understand the SLAM ending criteria.

Clorox Xtra Blue pucks have copper in them ... TFP does NOT ever recommend you add copper to your pool.

The Polysheen is likely a clarifier. Sometimes they work. Sometimes they create a bigger mess in your filter. They are generally not needed.

 

[jkeefauver]

Well I guess I have a big container of white paper weights and a half bottle of blue stuff. Okay...I'm all in for the TFP philosophy so I guess I wont be using them. While I'm at it, I have most of a case of the xtra blue shock as well. I assume that has copper as well?

 

[mknauss]

Yes it does.

 

[jkeefauver]

pH is up this morning, during SLAM. 8.2 on color block. Any need for concern?

 

[RonsPlc]

PH reads a false high when your FC is above 10.
JUST test chlorine when in a SLAM.

 

[jkeefauver]

Got it. Thanks.

 

[jkeefauver]

SLAM in process. FC at 25 against CYA of 60. Got my speedstir today, that makes life a bit easier. Can actually see the bottom a little bit now but still far from clear. Water is perfect color, just cloudy. CC is somewhere between .5 and 1. Kids looking longingly at the pool so hope we get to "swimmable" soon. Filter pressure not going up at all which seems odd but water gets a little better every day so...seems that pools are not for the impatient man!

 

[mknauss]

Kids looking longingly at the pool so hope we get to "swimmable" soon.

You can safely swim in a pool as long as the FC is above the minimum and at or below SLAM level based on your CYA. You must also be able to see the bottom of the pool in the deep end of the pool.

 

[jkeefauver]

Update: So I think I found my culprit. Am in SLAM, Day 3. Last evening, on a whim, decided to look inside white plastic pool steps only to find algae growing on the weights (cinder blocks) that are in there. So, in the pool I went, removed the blocks, removed the steps and essentially made the pool green/brown again due to the disturbance. FC was 24 at the time (CYA 60). Added more chlorine before bed and have an FC of 30 this morning. Pool is back to blue but still cannot see the bottom. I assumed that with a Chlorine level that high, nothing could survive inside those steps but I guess life finds a way. I intend on thoroughly washing the steps and finding a better "weight" option than the cinder blocks I had in there before. Appears the porous surface is ideal for growing little green critters. Also, filter pressure has only gone up from 12 (initial reading) to 15 in the last 72 hours. Sure doesn't seem that it's pulling much from the water as my cloudy water would attest. I might follow recent suggestion to use vacuum head at opposite end of pool to help improve circulation but the filter not "catching" the debris seems troublesome. Any advice appreciated.