Where Did My In Line Chlorinator Go & New Pump Failure

KeriCarter

Gold Supporter
Jun 6, 2022
154
Palestine, Texas
Pool Size
20000
Surface
Plaster
Chlorine
Salt Water Generator
SWG Type
Hayward Turbo Cell (T-CELL-5)
Sorry guys, I struggle to be succinct. Long story as short as possible 😂
Our pool is in East Texas. In January we had an icy weather event and our power was out for a week. Once it came back on, we realized our pump had failed and our sand filter had cracked and was leaking fairly heavily. I wanted to replace them and add a SWG anyway so no big deal. I used the Dolphin E70 to keep it as clean as I could during this time. I was afraid to add too much of anything at one time since I didn’t have real circulation.
The soonest the pool guy could come out was this past Wednesday. We have had heavy rainfall off and on the last month or so.

I gave up testing when my CYA hit 0 and I was struggling to keep any FC in the pool. I’ll ask about my chemical imbalances in a different post.

**The pool guy comes while it is lightning and pouring rain. I was afraid for his safety and to be honest I was concerned about the install during that weather. He insisted he would be ok.

The new pump is a SP3206VSPBH. It worked until he opened up where the board is and tried to connect it to the OnCommand system. Then it failed with a drive comm error. He said he might be back Monday to replace the back portion of the pump because he thinks that’s the issue. Does that sound right to you guys? As much as this is costing, I just want to make sure it’s going to be ok.
Meanwhile he had already asked me to dump the salt in before the failure. I swirled to mix it in.
I tested the pool again today and while it is mostly clear, the numbers are way out of whack of course, and clumps of black mold stuff is starting to appear and I can’t seem to scrub it off. I will post a pic below. Maybe this will sort itself out once I can SLAM it properly.

My other question is why did he remove my inline chlorinator for the pucks? I only very rarely used it to raise CYA when needed after heavy backwashes or due to loss from rain overflow, the blazing sun, or when we are out of town for an extended period of time. I was out at the install most of the day, but I went in to make the kids lunch.
My plan had been to use it to help get my CYA back fined tuned and then occasionally. I asked him why he removed it, but I’m not sure he understood what I was asking. Again, it was loud and storming heavily.
I don’t want to offend him, but I’d like it replaced. Is it worth asking, or should I just let it go? I’ll post a before and after pic below.
The puck floater makes me nervous because I have to keep moving it or it gets stuck and stays right over my shallow ledge in the corner.
Thanks guys!
If you got this far, I’m impressed. I promise once I’m more comfortable owning a pool, I won’t have so many questions.

Pics below of before and after partial install, and black spots

EEEE75DB-59C3-4F48-95AE-D46FCAA7AF6C.jpegEED21584-96CC-43F6-91FD-90D65E1EAC74.jpeg52084F36-AE53-41E0-9BDC-1C1BFCECAFDC.jpeg
 
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Get a floating dispenser for when you wish to use trichlor. That feeder was destroying your heater.

Also, the flow switch for the SWCG is installed too close to the pipe 90. Needs 12 inches of straight pipe before it.
 
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My other question is why did he remove my inline chlorinator for the pucks?
Based upon viewing your pics, the inline puck feeder is not needed when you add a SWG. As mentioned above, tie off a puck floater so it doesn't get stuck on your ledge.
 
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Get a floating dispenser for when you wish to use trichlor. That feeder was destroying your heater.

Also, the flow switch for the SWCG is installed too close to the pipe 90. Needs 12 inches of straight pipe before it.
Thank you for the information!
I will nicely ask the pool guy to correct it when he comes. Just so I understand and can talk with authority about it, you mean there should be a longer straight run on the far side of the SWG, further away from me before it gets to the 90, or the opposite side? Sorry for so many questions.
I think he’s fairly new to pool work on his own, do you mind telling me the reasoning, so I can let him know?
I‘m attaching another picture so I can make sure I understand.
I really appreciate your help!
 

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Based upon viewing your pics, the inline puck feeder is not needed when you add a SWG. As mentioned above, tie off a puck floater so it doesn't get stuck on your ledge.
I am feeling better already. I am glad I don’t need to ask him to put the puck feeder back in. It was worrying me.
Genius idea to tie the floater. I feel silly not thinking about that.
Thank you!
 
.Also, the flow switch for the SWCG is installed too close to the pipe 90. Needs 12 inches of straight pipe before it.

The flow switch should have been placed after the cell. The cell counts as the 12” of straight pipe before the flow switch n
 
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do you mind telling me the reasoning, so I can let him know?
What you will tell him (with authority ;)) is that the manufacturer says it needs 12 inches of straight pipe before it in order to function properly.

As water comes shooting through the 90, it may be turbulent and require more flow to activate the flow switch.
 
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IMPORTANT: There must be at least a 12" (25cm) straight pipe run before
(upstream) the flow switch. If the switch is plumbed after the cell, the cell can
by counted as the 12" (25cm) of straight pipe.

From https://hayward-pool-assets.com/assets/documents/pools/pdf/manuals/aquarite-aqr-owners-manual.pdf
I think I might be getting what you mean.
Does that mean the SWG and the flow meter should switch places? I’ll post a pic of what I mean below. Feel free to scream in frustration at me. 😜9E857798-D26D-4641-A0E0-4AB1233B2352.jpeg
 
Sorry, I am so confused. I’m going to see if I can find a picture of it correctly installed so I can try and understand. 😵‍💫
Can you identify the flow switch and cell?

Right now you have a 90 coming out of the heater leading into the flow switch and then the cell.

The cell needs to come first after the 90 and then the flow switch.
 
What you will tell him (with authority ;)) is that the manufacturer says it needs 12 inches of straight pipe before it in order to function properly.

As water comes shooting through the 90, it may be turbulent and require more flow to activate the flow switch.
I love your confidence! As soon as I make sure I understand what you guys are trying to tell me, I’ll have some hopefully. 😂
Am I understanding that switching the placement of the flow switch and the SWG should be switched and that would work? Or not because it’s too close to the return portion of the plumbing from the ground at that point?
I swear I’m smarter than this in real life.

20BA3ACB-23FD-482B-A4A3-48B2B18F7641.jpeg
 
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