What sort of DE filter cleaner should be used when on chlorine?

[anthonypool89]

I will very likely be converting from baqua next spring and have always used a DE filter cleaner solution allegedly for baqua users. So not sure...will it be compatible under chlorine? I'm thinking it shouldn't matter. Anyone know? Is there such a thing as a liquid filter cleaner specifically for chlorine pools? I use either the Softswim or Baquacil brand of filter cleaner that gets added to water.

 

[ajw22]

Does not matter.

The Softswim should be fine. I would not use anything from Baquacil.

 

[JamesW]

 

[JamesW]

Remove the cartridge from the filter housing following the manufacturer’s instructions.

Use a garden hose with a straight flow nozzle to wash down the filter element.

Work from the top down, holding the nozzle at a 45 degree angle, and wash all the pleats with emphasis between pleats.

Rinse until all dirt and debris is gone.

For all spa cartridges and elements used in swimming pools where perspiration, suntan lotions, and other oils are present, soak the element for at least one hour (over night is more effective) in (1) a commercial filter cleaner; or (2) one cup trisodium phosphate (TSP) to five gallons water; or (3) once cup dishwasher detergent to five gallons of water.

Rinse the cartridge again to remove oils and cleaning solution.

If the filter has a coating of algae, calcium carbonate (residue from calcium hypochlorite), iron, or other minerals, soak the cartridge in a solution of one part muriatic acid to twenty parts water until all bubbling stops.

WARNING: Failure to remove all oils and cleaning solution before acid soaking will result in a permanent restriction of water flow and cause premature cartridge failure.

Rinse the cartridge clean an reassemble housing.

https://www.unicelfilters.com/retailers/ci_chlorine_users.asp

https://www.unicelfilters.com/retailers/ci_baquacil_users.asp

 

[JamesW]

 

[JamesW]

Instant Cartridge & DE Filter Cleaner | Jacks Magic

jacksmagic.com

 

[JamesW]

In most cases, just hosing off the dirt is enough.

Rarely will you ever need to do more than that.

If you need to do more, you're doing something wrong.

I would also recommend that acid is never used on cartridges or DE fabric.

A commercial filter cleaner or one cup trisodium phosphate (TSP) to five gallons water or once cup dishwasher detergent to five gallons of water should be enough to do any additional cleaning if there are any oils or suntan lotions etc.

 

[JamesW]

Cartridge Cleaning Supplement for Biguanide Users

QUESTION:

What should I know about cleaning my cartridge element if I use a biguanide system such as Leisure Time Free or Baquacil?

ANSWER:

Unlike chlorine which oxidizes the bacteria in the water, the active ingredient in biguanide systems, polyhexamethylene biqunaide (PHMB), destroys the bacterial cells.

PHMB locates and binds to the bacterial surfaces, and then attacks the outer bacterial wall.

Once this wall has been compromised, the inner cell membrane (the cytoplasmic membrane) is destroyed.

This destruction allows the cell contents to disperse into their surroundings where they are further broken down into their elemental parts by a non-chlorine oxidizer such as Leisure Time Boost or Baqua Shock®.

In addition, Leisure Time Boost and Baqua Shock are mild coagulants which combine bacterial cells and other small particles in the environment into particles large enough to be trapped by the filter.

The resulting deposit is a gray sticky film on the media which can only be removed with Leisure Time Filter Clean or Baqua Clean.

If trisodium phosphate (TSP) or any TSP type cleaner is used prior to stripping the film, the cleaner and the gray film will combine to form a gum-like substance.

Once this occurs, the substance cannot be removed from the media and the filter cartridge must be replaced.

WARNING: Follow all manufacturer's instructions, warnings and cautions when using Leisure Time Free or Baquacil products.

Leisure Time and Leisure Time Free are registered trademarks of Advantis Technologies, Inc.

https://www.unicelfilters.com/retailers/ci_baquacil_users.asp

 

[JamesW]

 

[anthonypool89]

I would not use anything from Baquacil.

And yet, from what I've been told, Baquacil and Softswim products are basically interchangeable.

 

[anthonypool89]

Rinse until all dirt and debris is gone.

Thanks...I'm well familiar with all this, having cleaned my DE grids this way for decades, especially the last 2 years. 15 cleanings last season and 17 so far this season. Gets a bit old after awhile. Only a few of those were chemical cleaning however, but I think I can do the completely dismantle / spray with hose / reassemble procedure in my sleep, or blindfolded.

 

[anthonypool89]

If trisodium phosphate (TSP) or any TSP type cleaner is used prior to stripping the film, the cleaner and the gray film will combine to form a gum-like substance.

Once this occurs, the substance cannot be removed from the media and the filter cartridge must be replaced.

This is MOST Interesting. Thanks a bunch. I have no idea what changed over the past several years but no matter what I do I can't get away from short cycling. The best I've done lately is having put a brand new set of grids in mid-July. That cycle went for 7 weeks but unfortunately ended a few days ago. So now I have one of my older sets of grids in (older = 2 years old though) and it looks like I'm once again going to short cycle.

Next season I'm converting. I need to see what happens with some of the same grids using chlorine. Only way to find out if it's the baqua causing the "blinding" of the grids (I posted about this not too long ago ala info I got from some lab technician) OR is it the grids themselves getting something on them that no longer comes off OR is the material they use simply not as good anymore. It has gotten to the point where I actually go way beyond the procedure you referred me to. I take apart the entire grid assy - 10 grids and 9 plastic spacers that go between each and then hold the entire thing together - and then with the leftover filter cleaner solution I lay all the grids out on the lawn, get a telescoping scrub brush and brush each grids - both sides - really well dipping the brush in the solution. The big test is...this current cycle...since I did that with the set of grids that are in now. Process of elimination.

 

[JamesW]

15 cleanings last season and 17 so far this season.

Why are so many cleanings necessary?

 

[JamesW]

Next season I'm converting.

 

[anthonypool89]

Rarely will you ever need to do more than that.

LOL...well, sure hasn't been the case here, nor with another guy who recently posted on the baqua part of the forum. He also is getting short cycling. We've been discussing it for the past few weeks.

 

[anthonypool89]

Why are so many cleanings necessary?

Well, when you say "cleanings" if you're referring to other than soaking the grids overnight in the cleaning solution, the reason the backwashing / disassembly / hosing off the grids / reassembly / recharging the system with DE is necessary is that the filter pressure goes up so fast. Through all of June I only got 3-4 day cycles. It was insane. There were days I had to restrain myself from getting out a sledge hammer and taking it to the filter tank. Pressure went from a start-up of @13-14 to 22 in a matter of days. I'm not doing a thing wrong, and nothing different than I've done for 33 years.

 

[JamesW]

 

[anthonypool89]

James...absolutely!!! Exactly like that....great attempts and hopefulness, but...no dice. Well, all you guys have been waiting for me to convert anyway, so it'll actually happen. I'm counting on that help (during the conversion process) that is the trademark of TFP

 

[JamesW]

I'm not doing a thing wrong

If there is a problem, then by definition, you must be doing something wrong; that's axiomatic.

 

[anthonypool89]

you must be doing something wrong; that's axiomatic.

I suspect it's something interacting between the baqua, water chemistry, and grids that is causing the rapid increase in filter pressure. Newdude's theory has always been a nascent algae bloom at the threshold of visibility. I have been seeing areas that are pitted that have green spots in them so today thoroughly wire-brushed the entire pool. If it was something I was doing wrong, explain to me why a brand new set of grids presented NO problem whatsoever for 7 weeks? And as soon as I put in an older set, bingo...pressure increase. Also, for probably 95% of the time during the season, the water is clear.

Rather than experiment with yet more products, I think trying chlorine using the same filter cleaner I've worked with for 22 years is a logical next step. Otherwise introduces too many variables at once if converting AND also trying some different type of cleaner.