We made it to gunite... finally!

[ajw22]

This is a skimmer formed courtesy of @AQUA~HOLICS ...

 

[ajw22]

OK, so it all falls on the gunite crew properly forming the walls. Better get the gunite crew on the same page of what will be done.

I would be hovering over them the entire day.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

I’m hoping the best for you tomorrow and still offering any assistance that I can to help you with.
I have seen on job sites that the Gunite crew will adjust out of square rebar walls, form walls with drywall behind the cage and in front of the dirt walls, extend and relocate plumbing lines to insure functionality but not replace and install new main drains.
The picture of the skimmer has the minimum amount of rebar required just to pass inspection, two #3 bars.
Your pool and spa all have straight lines, typically the crew will string up guide wires for all the inside walls to keep the pool and spa square (picture).
Also find all the bonding connectors and have them exposed pointing away from the shell so to be easily accessible after the shoot (picture).

 

[sll0037]

I’m hoping the best for you tomorrow and still offering any assistance that I can to help you with.
I have seen on job sites that the Gunite crew will adjust out of square rebar walls, form walls with drywall behind the cage and in front of the dirt walls, extend and relocate plumbing lines to insure functionality but not replace and install new main drains.
The picture of the skimmer has the minimum amount of rebar required just to pass inspection, two #3 bars.
Your pool and spa all have straight lines, typically the crew will string up guide wires for all the inside walls to keep the pool and spa square (picture).
Also find all the bonding connectors and have them exposed pointing away from the shell so to be easily accessible after the shoot (picture).View attachment 545274View attachment 545275

I appreciate the offer to help.

If you have any tips or advice for how to address the gunite foreman, I’m listening.

I talked to my father and he normally starts making runs for the raw gunite materials at 4a-5a. He said at his company, the gunite crews show up at 5a to start heading to jobs, so he’s going to ask the supervisor in charge of all the crews if anyone wasn’t called in to shoot a pool, so he could offer him the opportunity to come consult on my behalf and I’d pay them.

He’s skeptical on whether a crew would walk away from a job they probably shouldn’t shoot because they get paid to get the job done. Otherwise they might just get a small amount to cover their time driving there and back.

As far as what the gunite crew can and cannot do on gunite day, I guess we’ll find out. There isn’t much they can do with the plywood that is forming the pool walls. If they were to remove them or remove a brace that’s holding the plywood up, a substantial amount of dirt will fall into the pool, and into the rebar and maybe the plumbing.

I really do hope they use the wire/string to make sure the pool walls are cut straight. We are going for a modern look and if that’s off, I imagine it would compromise the entire look of the project.

My plan is to walk the entire pool with the foreman and ask him what sort of compromises he’s going to have to make to shoot the pool and how’s that going to impact the finished product.

If he calls it off, good. If he doesn’t and I’m not ok with the compromises, I’ll send them home myself. If he says no worries, then we’ll proceed and hope the pressure test after gunite results in no issues.

I’m skeptical about my own ability to know what compromises to accept, but I’ll just have to make that decision on the spot.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

To answer your first question, I typically let the foreman get his crew started before pulling him aside and explaining my thoughts and concerns without sounding like I’m telling him how to do his job. I truly believe that they will want to do the best possible job. On your job it’s going to be very obvious what needs to be done to in order to accomplish this.

Accepting compromises is a tuff call depending on the severity of what’s in question. Look up Pool Engineering Inc. for industry standards of Gunite placement.

Coverage of the rebar is most important, typically shells are required to have a minimum of 3” on both sides of the cage, 6” total on the floor, 9” in the coves, 6” on the walls and 12” on the top of the beam. These measurements can be checked with a tape measure for clearances as the application is going on.
Most crews will have extra Dobies to keep the cage a minimum of 3” off the floor and walls.
PM me with your number if you would rather talk about what’s going on in front of you, it’s going to be raining in my area tomorrow also so I will be available, no work when it’s raining, Ray.

 

[AQUA~HOLICS]

Received your PM, will talk with you in the morning

 

[Dirk]

Received your PM, will talk with you in the morning

Way to step up, Aqua-H!

 

[proavia]

@sll0037 - Any updates on the gunite?

 

[sll0037]

@sll0037 - Any updates on the gunite?

What a day...

Before I even begin to recap the day, a HUGE shoutout to @AQUA~HOLICS for offering his time and advice to me throughout the day. He text me at 7a CST, which I believe is 5a his time and we kept in touch all day via text and phone call. There are no words to express the deep gratitude I have for you. Thank You!

My day started bright and early at 6a, as the gunite crew began to show up and I had an opportunity to talk through a bunch of details with the gunite foreman. As expected, they were unimpressed with the support walls and form boards throughout, but they were undaunted by the task at hand. He said don't worry, we'll get it done and we'll get it done right. You have nothing to worry about. The gunite crew tore out most of the shoddy supports/forms and rebuilt almost all of it within 1-2 hours.

Of course, the pool builders guys were the last on site and they had trouble with the pool drain. It was difficult for them to get all the water out to cement the drain in place, but they finally got it done after about an hour or so.

The gunite crew ended their day at about 5p. I believe they used 7 twelve yard trucks of gunite. They discarded the majority of all the rebound, as well as the gunite they'd cut away when forming different parts of the pool. I'm glad I was outside with the crew all day, because the project manager had a difficult time remembering most of the important details of our pool, which was a bit frustrating but expected.

All in all, I'm very happy considering where we started the day. Is it perfect? No... I had to make some compromises along the way which proved especially difficult for a perfectionist like me.

1. Tanning Ledge Depth - The tanning ledge (along with the bubblers set height) was never formed and dug to accommodate the 10" depth we spec'd. The gunite foreman quickly pointed out that I was set to have about 7" of depth due to the bubblers, so he got to digging to set the bubblers lower. They did their best and we'll end up with 9" of water depth (hopefully).
2. Back Wall - The gunite crew had planned to remove the forms off the water feature wall so they could shoot the back side and finish it properly, but near the end of the day, they decided to abort that plan. They were afraid the wall might fold over given all the issues with the soil (and lackthere of) behind it, so they said they preferred to let it harden for a few days, come back and remove the forms, and shoot 1-2 more inches from the back and finish the back of the wall straight as well. As is, the back of the feature wall is a bit wavy due to the way the forms were being pushed. I'm just hoping my pool builder doesn't try to be cheap and not bring them back out. I can already hear him coming up with a cheaper "just as good" way to do the same thing.
3. No Plumbing Pressure Test - Since the drains were put in during gunite, we didn't get to pressure test the system during gunite. The cement will have set-up by tomorrow, so I may just pressurize it myself.
   • Is pressurizing the system as easy as attaching my hose to the bib on the manifold and filling it until the gauge reads my desired pressure?
   • What's an ideal pressure?
4. Lights - Some of the pipes for my lights are not 100% straight... they tried to straighten them, but some of them simply would not budge, likely a result of the previous gunite flash coat.
5. Spa Drain Not centered on one of the axis in the spa... hopefully with the water, our black finish, and the pebble top it'll fade away.

Otherwise, I don't have too many complaints. I'm glad today went better than I expected.

I have tons of gunite outside my pool now from all the discarded rebound, so it's looking like WWII out there.

Outside of watering the shell and letting it cure, I have no clue what's next, so we'll see. We're expecting some rain for the next 3 days, so hopefully that gives me a break from watering because omg it's a messy job on such a large pool.

 

[sll0037]

 

[Dirk]

Looks like a pool! So glad the day went well for you.

 

[kimkats]

What a day! I am glad to see they got the inside of the pool lines straight. That is the most important in the end.

@AQUA~HOLICS is the BOMB!!!

The foreman is also the BOMB doing that work to get your shelf closer to your desired depth.

Stick to your guns about the GOOD crew coming back to "finish" the job on that wall. Don't let him say they can't come back. Did you happen to get the foreman's name and number? This one is worth "fighting" for as it will matter in down the road.

If you want to set up a sprinkler to help you water the shell you can. Other than that you are doing all you can.

I would get something on the top of that rebar sticking up. My mama bear gut says DANGER. If someone were to trip by one of them...........You can get the tip cover at Lowes and such.

 

[Newdude]

I would get something on the top of that rebar sticking up. My mama bear gut says DANGER. If someone were to trip by one of them...........You can get the tip cover at Lowes and such.

+1. The beefy ones were $5 each at HD. The upgrade over the Poland Spring bottle the worker left on mine was WELL worth it for the peace of mind.

 

[HermanTX]

Looks like a pool! So glad the day went well for you.

This was my exact same thoughts looking at the pictures after the dialogue of the day's events.
Appears the gunite crew was experienced and able to fix many of the issues.

Test your plumbing to no more than 30psi. 20-30psi is norm.

Using a sprinkler is best to keep the gunite wet.
This pool really looks nice.

 

[Jm13004]

The Gunite crew did a great job.....no thanks to the lousy builder. Having Aqua-holic for guidance must have been a huge help. Get-r-done.

 

[Newdude]

Having Aqua-holic for guidance must have been a huge help.

Not a day goes by thay somebody(s) doesn't step up spectacularly. And it's infectious. Hats off to @AQUA~HOLICS for his help.

 

[ajw22]

Well you are not swimming yet but are closer.

Looks like you got a good gunite crew who really stepped up. Glad the Builder is paying their bill. The gunite work looks really good with smooth straight walls and sharp corners. I think your oversight yesterday helped.

Watering New Gunite and Concrete - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

The rebar sticking up is a major OSHA safety hazard. Someone tripping can be speared by the rebar and have significant injuries. Put caps on the rebar. Even empty water bottles on the rebar will safer until you can cap them.

Next should be tile and coping. You have the tiles and coping selected and on hand?

 

[jetranger]

Glad the gunite went well! It looks like they did a nice job!

@AQUA~HOLICS @ajw22 @Newdude all helped tremendously on my build as well.

As a side note, I really appreciate your formatting and grammar. It makes it so much easier to read through a thread when everything is neat and organized!

 

[JamesW]

Even empty water bottles on the rebar will safe them.

The plastic is too thin to provide adequate protection.

Get the real caps.

You could probably make some with 1" pvc pipe and a cap.

If you had a piece of 1" schedule 40 pvc about 4" long and glued on a cap, that might provide adequate protection.

Tape the pvc at the bottom to keep it from coming off.

The main idea is to keep the top blunt enough to prevent puncture to someone who might fall on the rebar.

A 1" cap will make a bruise, but probably not penetrate.

1" Sch 40 PVC Cap Soc 447-010 | Buy Schedule 40 Caps & Fittings

1" Schedule 40 PVC Cap is easy to install with a slip end. This cap requires solvent cement during installation. This cap will not pit, rust or scale.

www.pvcfittingsonline.com

In any case, the real products are the best way to go.

Get the real caps.

 

[JamesW]

Are they going to cut off the rebar?

In any case, make them safe as soon as possible.

Keep the kids away from the rebar.