We have a hole in the ground! New O/B in Queen Creek, AZ

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I went out and re-traced each relay back to the board. "P" is pump. They are arranged as follows:

QtiGWoN.jpg


So, the SWCG transformer is wired to the pump relay, so that's good. It looks like it's probably done "correctly," but not "right" if that makes sense. I think most of the wires in there are long enough to redo the relays per the diagram on the ET. The big question remains what is going on with the light wiring. They will be back out to pull the GloBrite and I can inquire then, but I just don't understand what they did there and why.
 
51,

Grounding and bonding are two different things.. You do not normally connect the bonding wire to a grounding rod...

I would not screw with your electricians wiring..

I only see two options... One, tell him you would like the relays to match the label on the inside of the door so that future repairs or upgrades will be easier and see what he says...

Option two, would be to just leave everything alone... I suspect he will make it all work... Later if you like, you can reconfigure it the way it should be..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
51,

Grounding and bonding are two different things.. You do not normally connect the bonding wire to a grounding rod...

I would not screw with your electricians wiring..

I only see two options... One, tell him you would like the relays to match the label on the inside of the door so that future repairs or upgrades will be easier and see what he says...

Option two, would be to just leave everything alone... I suspect he will make it all work... Later if you like, you can reconfigure it the way it should be..

Thanks,

Jim R.
Click to expand...


Thanks, Jim! When they come back, I will ask them to rearrange the relays per the label, but I imagine they'll say no. They already have their $$. I guess it's not terribly hard to figure it out, but would be a lot easier if it was done in order.

Probably my last question for the night. Do they normally run the low voltage from the light transformer to each light relay and switch the lights from there, or do they run the high voltage to the relay, then switch the transformer that's connected directly to all of the lights? It seems like if you just switch the transformer, you won't have control of the individual lights...unless you had multiple transformers. Between studying electrical systems for work and trying to figure out this pool wiring, I'm ready for a drink, but I have no pool to enjoy it in.
 
51,

In theory these are high voltage relays and control the high voltage to the transformer.. If you have one transformer, then all the lights connected to that one transformer come on and off at the same time.

Jim R.
 
Jimrahbe said:
51,

In theory these are high voltage relays and control the high voltage to the transformer.. If you have one transformer, then all the lights connected to that one transformer come on and off at the same time.

Jim R.
Click to expand...

Thanks. That’s the answer I was coming up with using the google machine. I’m not sure how the swim mode works without using multiple transformers, but maybe the electronics in the lights themselves have the ability to set delays based on their position in the pool/spa so that they change colors in sequence. Not a huge deal since we only have 2 pool lights and a spa light. Based on what you and others have said elsewhere (including Pentair’s installation manual), the lights are definitely being wired incorrectly. This will need to be fixed.

Ok, time to get back to the current issue (no pun intended) of getting shotcrete scheduled. My gut tells me it won’t happen until late next week. Oh well. Thanks again for the help.
 
Shotcrete is scheduled for tomorrow. I've started putting up some plastic sheeting for some extra protection. I have a feeling we'll still get a small amount of spray on the roof and other random places, but between this and what the shotcrete company puts up, we should end up mostly clean. I need to do one last check of the rebar, but I think everything is looking good. I think it will be a big relief when tomorrow is over.

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Today went pretty much as planned. The shotcrete guys planned on shooting 42 yards and that's exactly what they ended up shooting. We lucked out with no overbreak. I'm glad everything has come in right at the bid price for all of the subs so far. Here are some pics of the shotcrete as they were finishing up. I've since found one wire sticking out of the outside of the spa wall and one sticking out right above the waterline. I hollowed out just enough space around them so that I can cut them deep later and then fill the spots. I think we'll be ok with rust and I'm pretty happy with how things came out.

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Guess what time it is!!! Time for YOUR own set of links!

Here is a set of links I put together for new pool owners. I hope this helps you manage your pool.

Print these out:
Pool School - Basic Pool Care Schedule

Pool School - Recommended Levels

Bookmark these:
Pool School - Recommended Pool Chemicals

Pool Math

Pool School - ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry

Make sure to ask any and all questions you might have no matter how small! We have all been where you are at one point.

Now is also the time to think about the test kit. Ask your PB what one he will be providing and let us know which one so we can fill in any holes.

Love, love, love both of those tiles! With the glass one think about the mortar color as that can change the color of the tile. Then think about the grout color. They should have grout sticks for you to use to pick your color.

Kim:kim:
 
Thanks, Kim! I'm still debating whether to try to sodium bicarb method to fill the pool. It seems like it's probably a good idea and it's pretty easy to find large barrels for cheap. I do have a Taylor K-2006 test kit. I tested my fill water a couple of weeks ago, just to check things out. Here's what I got from the quick tests I did.

TA: 120ppm
CH: 225ppm

I'll have to go back over others' posts, but I think that was in the range of what's to be expected out here for city water. Anyway, I'm probably getting a bit ahead of myself. I'm working on figuring out the decking and tile stuff as we speak. It's a delicate balance between what looks acceptable and what I can afford. I suppose that's how it is for most of us.
 
If you do that start up you do need to start really reading up on it and make sure your PB is on board with it. It is labor intensive and HE will not want to do it but may allow you to do so if you want to. It is the best start up out there!

Yeah the age old battle between wallet and heart sighhhhhhhhhhhhhh Go for the BLING!!! LOL

Kim:kim:
 
kimkats said:
If you do that start up you do need to start really reading up on it and make sure your PB is on board with it. It is labor intensive and HE will not want to do it but may allow you to do so if you want to. It is the best start up out there!

Yeah the age old battle between wallet and heart sighhhhhhhhhhhhhh Go for the BLING!!! LOL

Kim:kim:
Click to expand...

Well, since I am the builder, I guess he's ok with it :joker:. The pebble company may have a different opinion when it comes to warrantying their finish, but I'll talk to them and see what they think. I've done a fair bit of reading on it and it seems pretty straightforward, but most things seem easy on paper.
 
Well, once again, I feel dumb. My IntelliBrites are the 120V version, so they are wired correctly. I had no idea IntelliBrites even came in low and high voltage versions. They are coming back out tomorrow to pull the GloBrite, which is the only light that needs to be wired to the transformer. I don't think they are going to rearrange the wiring per the sticker on the ET door, but that's less of an issue for me. It will all work as it is now and I will likely be the only one to ever work on the panel while I own the house.

I've been watering the shotcrete religiously and we had a nice, steady rain for a while yesterday. The relatively low temps should mean this shell is curing slowly and evenly. The decking guy came out to take a look at things. I'm ordering materials this week and will hopefully have coping and tile done sometime in the next couple of weeks.

AZ people, I've got a question. I was planning on having a 2' wide strip of gravel and some nice plants along the back of the house on each side, then the travertine decking would extend from there to the pool. I was told that might not be the best idea due to termites and drainage issues. Does anybody here have any insight on that? Thanks.
 
Another question for the experts: Temps are forecast to drop to 29F on Saturday night. My plumbing is all still capped off and pressurized. Am I going to need to cut come caps off and drain the plumbing to prevent damage? There is also a few inches of water pooled in the deep end of the pool. Is that anything I should be worried about? Thanks.
 
First off are they calling for a "Hard Freeze"? That is when the temps will get to below 32 and stay there for more than 3 hours. If so then we move on to the next question:

Did they use water or air to pressurized? If air no problem. If water then I would drain the pipes.

The water in the pool will not be a problem except if the main drain pipe is full of water and you are having a hard freeze.
 
As of right now, it looks like temps will be below 32 for around 5 hours. I spoke with the plumbing sub and he said I can cut the caps off of some lines to drain the system. They used water to pressurize, unfortunately. I'm going to keep an eye on the weather and hope things don't get quite as cold as the current forecast predicts.

On a more positive note, coping install is scheduled to begin Sunday. We went with a walnut colored travertine that will be delivered Friday. I ordered 12x12 for the coping and 1150 sq ft of 3pc travertine for the decking. Things just keep moving along and my bank account continues to empty!
 

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