Water Chemistry for All Tile Pool

[XSaint]

Hi everyone.

I’m not a new pool owner, but I am new to this forum and new to maintaining my pool. I have a 20+ year gunite pool with (until recently) the original aggregate plaster surface (DiamondBrite, I believe). I have just completed resurfacing the entire pool with glass tile.

Are there any differences to water chemistry with a tile surface compared to a plaster/aggregate surface?

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
Did they use cement based grout on the tile? If so, it is a plaster pool.
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

 

[XSaint]

Yes, they used Laticrete Permacolor cement grout. The tiles are also 1”, so there is quite a bit of grout as the surface footprint.

 

[XSaint]

I recently resurfaced my concrete/plaster pool, and am in the process of getting the water balance right before adding the chlorine. I filled the pool with tap water from a hose, roughly 9,000 gallons over 24 hours. Visually the water looks relatively clean.

The baseline test conducted by my local pool supply company was as follows:

• TC 0 PPM
• FC 0 PPM
• CC 0 PPM
• pH 8.0
• TA 45 PPM
• CH 75 PPM
• Stabilizer 0 PPM
• Total Dissolved Solids: 200PPM

So far, I have followed the pool calculator to increase the TA towards 100 PPM, using baking soda. A second test performed at the same store showed the TA at 120PPM. I figured this was a bit high, but would come down after adding acid to decrease the pH. Today, I added 20oz of 31.5% muriatic acid to get to a target pH of 7.4. I also added 10lbs of calcium chloride to get to a target of 200PPM CH.

Almost immediately upon adding the acid, the water began to turn cloudy, even before adding the calcium chloride. I waited about 30 minutes for the acid to circulate before adding the calcium chloride. The filtration system is running, and 60 minutes later, the water has not cleared up. I have yet to add the stabilizer/chlorine yet, as I will wait 24 hours for the calcium chloride to stabilize and re-test before adding anything else.

Will this clear up on its own, or have I done something wrong?

 

[mknauss]

You need your own proper test kit. Test Kits Compared

I suggest the TF100. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.

The cloudiness will subside. It is an extreme outgassing of CO2 due to adding acid to a pool with high TA.

 

[XSaint]

Thanks @mknauss! I have a Taylor K-2006 on the way from Amazon.

UPDATE: Last night, I also turned my return jets down to force better circulation towards the main drain. I'm not sure if that helped, but the water looks a bit better this morning. Also, I cleaned out the filter this morning, which was pretty dirty with residual grout and other debris from the resurfacing.

How long should I wait before testing the CH again? (I added 10lbs of baking soda on Sunday night).

Thanks again!

 

[mknauss]

How long should I wait before testing the CH again? (I added 10lbs of baking soda on Sunday night).

Baking soda does nothing for CH. And why are you adding baking soda?
Do not add anything (except 3 ppm FC worth of liquid chlorine each day) until you get your test kit.

 

[XSaint]

I misspoke. I meant calcium chloride.

I got a test reading from my local pool store (prior to joining TFP) to get the process started as I was concerned about having the water "idle" soon after filling the pool. I added baking soda on Sunday night to bring the TA up to 100-120. Monday evening, I added 31.5% muriatic acid to target 7.2 - 7.4 (reading was 8.0) and then calcium chloride to get the CH up. My test kit should arrive by the end of the week.

In the meantime, should I pause adding anything other than liquid chlorine? Should I add any stabilizer before or with the chlorine?

 

[mknauss]

As you know the CYA is 0, add 30 ppm worth of dry stabilizer using the sock method along with the daily chlorine.

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