Waiting on my test kit...what now?

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Finally got my test! Here are my results

FC: 0.5
CC: 4
pH: 7.6
TA: 110 - I guess I added too much baking soda :-/
CYA: 0
CA: 250 - It kept turning purple so I diluted with distilled water and still added the 5 drops of 0012 before testing (was I supposed to still add the 5 drops before even though I diluted with distilled water?)

Now what? Do I need to lower pH? Add CYA before bleach?

If I only have time to vacuum OR brush which is more important?

The pool is clear now so that's good!
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If you still have combined chlorine at 4 there's something up. How high was FC during your SLAM? I suspect there is still stuff in there you're going to want to get rid of. If you're confident in that CYA number I'd recommend adding stabalizer asap to get to 30 (you can always add more - start with less). With no CYA it will be really tough to maintain a high enough level of FC do kill whatever is left.
 
To answer your question, use pool math to get the TA down (acid and airate to raise PH). If it was my pool I'd do that and, at the same time, add CYA and bleach. Others with more experience might disagree.
 
Do not add CYA yet!

Add 10ppm of FC and then retest the FC and CC after 10 minutes. Continue that process until the FC starts to hold near your target and the CC has dropped. Then you can add 30ppm of CYA and start the SLAM Process.
 
CYA AND FC are the first thing to work on.

CYA-Shoot for 20 just in case there is some already in there but it is not showing up on the test as it is very hard to test for under 20.

FC-get it up to and keep it up at SLAM level using the CYA level you were shooting for above.

TA is the last thing we work on since the PH does not test true with FC over 10 and TA and PH go hand in hand.

I am VERY happy to see how clear it is. You have been working hard.

Okay if you have to pick brush or vacuum I would switch back and forth. Wait, I just looked at your siggy and picture..........does the in floor system work? If so then let it work and brush to help it out.

Kim:kim:
 
Lower pH to 7.2 with muriatic acid. Do about half of what pool math suggests. Wait 30 minutes and measure pH again.
Add enough stabilizer to get you to 30 - put in a sock and place in front of a return. Will assume it is 30 but will take a day or so to fully register.
If you have pH at 7.2, start the SLAM. Check the FC/Cya chart for your FC goal. Add what it recommends and 30 minutes later, see if you hit it. If you have time, the first few hours can be key because if you can get the FC to hold you can get a feel for how often you need to test. The key is trying to stay above SLAM level as often as you can


Do not worry about trying to adjust TA. That fight can wait until afterSLAM
 
Well too late I already added CYA and bleach. We shall see what it says tomorrow when I get home from work.

Yes the in floor system works. Not sure how well it works but it functions. Just vacuumed up the majority of the remaining debris so will stick to brushing. This weekend will be able to brush and vacuum more and focus on SLAM. Thanks!
 
Well adding the CYA could make this more difficult.

Add 10ppm of the FC, test FC and CC after 10 minutes. If the 1 scoop of powder does not turn pink with the powder, then FC is 0 and you add the r0003 to check CC.

If you can pull the CYA out now.
 

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jblizzle said:
Well adding the CYA could make this more difficult.

Add 10ppm of the FC, test FC and CC after 10 minutes. If the 1 scoop of powder does not turn pink with the powder, then FC is 0 and you add the r0003 to check CC.

If you can pull the CYA out now.
Click to expand...

Maybe I am confused. Do you not want to add CYA because there might be ammonia and thus it will be wasted because the ammonia will break it down?
 
You moderators are AWESOME!! ..xenayes99 I really believe your in good hands. I say this because just a few days ago I was looking to spend 1000's of dollars on a boulder jumping off rock for my pool. Then I found this site and HELLO, I have so much to do and learn like the ABC's of Pool Chemistry and just basic understanding of what the purpose of chlorine really is. Anyway, not trying to preach Good luck and hang in there
 
I had this issue when I opened my pool this spring as well with 0 CYA. You need to add bleach to maintain 10 FC until you kill off whatever bacteria converted your CYA to ammonia. As Jblizzle said, adding more CYA before killing it off will just make more ammonia and consume more bleach in the long run. Once it can hold 10 FC then you should have killed off the offender and it's safe to add CYA and begin the SLAM process.
 
Test your FC first. Try not to assume it is zero if you have not tested recently.
You want the pH around 7.2 because it will probably want to rise since your TA is a little high and you will not test pH during the SLAM because the test is not accurate when FC is above 10.


FYI, any suggestions from jbizzle and Kim supersede my suggestions. Pretty sure I got this one correct.

After you add the heaping scoop, if it does not turn to any shade of pink your FC is zero.
 
FC becomes less effective as the PH rises above 7.8. Since the PH test is less accurate above 10 FC you want to set the PH to 7.2 before you start the SLAM process where you maintain the FC above 10 so testing PH testing is not accurate.

If you want an example of the pink color take a few drops of bleach in 10ml of tap water and add the DPD powder then test it as you normally would.

As mentioned before if you add the DPD powder to your 10ml sample and it does not turn pink at all then FC = 0 and move on to the CC test by adding 5 drops of the R003 and if it turns pink then add R0871 counting the drops then divide drop count by 2 to get your CC number. If it doesn't turn pink after adding the R003 then CC = 0.

One thing I've done to ensure I've added enough powder to lock up all the FC when I have high FC is after testing the FC and CC I add more test water to the vial and if it turns pink again then you know there was 'available' DPD reagent looking for more FC to lock up indicating you added large enough scoop(s).
 
dloki said:
FC becomes less effective as the PH rises above 7.8. Since the PH test is less accurate above 10 FC you want to set the PH to 7.2 before you start the SLAM process where you maintain the FC above 10 so testing PH testing is not accurate.

If you want an example of the pink color take a few drops of bleach in 10ml of tap water and add the DPD powder then test it as you normally would.
Click to expand...

When there is CYA in the water, the affect of pH on FC effectiveness is much much lower, basically negligible.

Adding drops of bleach into 10ml is going to have a FC way way too high to show a realistic pink color
 

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