Ultima T.K.O. to shock a saltwater pool?

[ajup2it]

Hi all, I'm new here so please forgive my ignorance. Also I'm a first time pool owner. I was given Ultima T.K.O for shocking my pool due to a small mustard algae bloom and before I jumped headlong into dumping the requisite amount into my pool, I wanted to see if using such a chemical to shock my pool would be ok or cause more issues for my SWG (Pentair Intellichlor IC40 for my 26776 gallon pool). I did the usual sweeping of the pool liner (vinyl of course), vacuumed to waste, refilled, waited for 48 hours and rechecked my pH. I'm dead on the numbers there. I turned up my salt cell to get the chlorine up, though I know that will take a bit. The water is fairly clear. No green/yellow hues. I added stabilizer since it was low and it clouded up for a day and we're back to being clear. Today I will check behind my pool light and the other known trouble spots for algae collection and scrub as needed. I've read the SLAM info and since I'm at the end of the season for swimming, my husband has asked me to wait on getting a proper water testing kit. Its on my list for next spring! Given that, it looks like I'm going to be flying a bit blind in the way of knowing my exact water chemistry. Obviously I can hit up two different pool places to get readings and hope for the best, but I was wondering if the T.K.O. was ok (as it is calcium based?? I'm worried about the salt cell here) and if there are any other bits of info to help me for the last 30 days of having my pool open? Or should I go with straight liquid bleach?

Much appreciated for the help in advance!
Cheers,
April

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
That product is Cal Hypo. So depending our CH, TA, and pH level, it may be OK to use. But the process is the issue.
I know you said you wanted to wait for a test kit. That will be a poor choice.
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF100. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
Do you have any type of test results? Preferably from your own test kit?
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

 

[ajup2it]

Welcome to the forum!
That product is Cal Hypo. So depending our CH, TA, and pH level, it may be OK to use. But the process is the issue.
I know you said you wanted to wait for a test kit. That will be a poor choice.
You need to follow the SLAM Process. To do that, you need a proper test kit, see Test Kits Compared. I suggest the TF100. A proper test kit is needed to get the accurate water chemistry results needed to follow the TFP protocols.
Do you have any type of test results? Preferably from your own test kit?
I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry.

Hi Marty! Thanks for replying. By process, what do you mean? Yeah, hubby won't budge on the test kit until next year. I have test strips I can use or local pool companies and that's it for now. As such, all of the aforementioned seem to show my water chemistry to be in "good shape". I've read ABC's, SLAM, Algae posts, etc. My hands are tied for anything outside of purchasing only the needed chemicals for this last month. It is what it is.

 

[mknauss]

SLAM Process

If unwilling to get proper test kit, close the pool for the winter. Plan for a major clean up in the spring. No need to waste money on chemicals that will not be effective.

 

[ajup2it]

So you're saying T.K.O. is pointless then? Just trying to understand.

 

[mknauss]

It is pointless. If you are unwilling to follow the SLAM Process and get a proper test kit, it is a waste. You will be at the same place in days. You will not have eradicated the algae.

 

[mguzzy]

It will delay the inevitable. In order to provide support for your pool we all need to be on the same page testing wise. Pool stores and strips are too inconsistent to rely on for accurate pool chem measurement.

 

[ajw22]

Your hubby is being foolish because you will throw more money into the pool with pool store tests and chemicals then you would buying the TF-100 Test Kits following our SLAM Process and using pure bleach, stabilizer and muriatic acid you can buy in Walmart.

 

[ajup2it]

The TKO was given to us by a neighbor. We are short on cash right now hence we have to wait on the kit. I understand pure bleach can be bought at Walmart and yeah I use muriatic acid. I'm a little stunned and dismayed that there is only one way of resolving this issue - TFP way, or no way at all - according to all the posts so far. I'm doing the best with what I've got to work with right now and I feel like you all can't be bothered with alternate solutions or patience with me for asking when I can't follow what you're suggesting to the T. You know sometimes if you need a hammer and don't have one you can use another tool to get the job done too. Wow. Sorry to waste all of your time here. Guess I'll just give up like everyone is suggesting.

 

[mknauss]

Sorry if we are blunt. We are just being honest.

Add the cal hypo. It will not hurt anything. But it will also not solve the issue.

 

[mguzzy]

Most of the support here is based on using the TFP protocol.. so that is where their comments are coming from. I understand you are on a budget. You can use the TKO.. it will work in the short term. But the fine folks here are just trying to get you on a path of self sufficiency in the long term. Good luck.. keep us posted on how things are going.

 

[ajw22]

Toss the TKO in and see how it works for you. Its your pool.

We don’t have any magic way of changing chemistry.

 

[ajup2it]

Blunt I can deal with. Bordering on rude and judgmental...not so much. I'll do my best, but I doubt I'll post again at this point. I totally get what you're saying mguzzy. Next year I'll get it sorted out. For now I'm working with the tools I have. I'm just disappointed in how I was treated.

 

[Donldson]

Welcome to TFP!

I'm not sure what kind of advice you would expect from us. We have much experience and knowledge to share, but we need good reliable information to base all of our advice on. That means good reliable test results from a source we can trust.

Truthfully I am rather surprised that anybody can feel that we are being unfair at such a request. We need to know where someone is to tell them how to get where they want to go. To come to a website and say "I'm not going to give you the information you need, tell me how to fix it anyway" to me is far more rude than bluntly telling someone that we cannot help. I'm sorry if you feel otherwise.

You know sometimes if you need a hammer and don't have one you can use another tool to get the job done too.

Correct. And also correct is that every craftsperson in the world would tell you to get the proper tool for the job and never advise you to bang on the nail with a wrench.

Best of luck with your pool, I hope you get that nail driven in. I know we can help, but you need the proper hammer first...

 

[YippeeSkippy]

Hi there Ajup2it.... its a dilemma for sure. I hear ya about the money too. Is this algae on a shady part of the pool? That's where mustard algae usually shows up.. sometimes folks mistake their regular ole algae for "mustard algae". I'm glad you have a smooth vinyl pool as at least we feel fairly confident it isn't "black algae" with its roots (whew!).

How big is your pool?? I'm hoping a good size so my advice isn't going to be overkill...

I think since you're not prepared to do a full SLAM process, you could probably add about a gallon of *plain, unscented, non-thickened, non-Clorox Cloromax type bleach* per day and brush the pool well. This will certainly stun the algae into submission but it probably won't totally eradicate it entirely. A couple of days of that will hopefully make a huge dent in the problem. Yet since you'll be closing down soon you'll have done as much as you can without the test kit. When things look good you can back off and get ready to close in time. Keep some FC in the pool until closing...you can use that TKO then if you'd like?

Then next spring I'd suggest getting the TF-100 kit (cheapest and best, IMO) and open up prepared to take hold of the pool. Who knows? It may be in much better shape than we know! <fingers crossed>. Either way you'll be armed and ready to handle your water than.

Try to close the pool after the water drops to 60 degrees cause colder water isn't as conducive to algae reproduction (algae sex, gasp!! lol) and then open it early before the water warms up over 60. This really helps.

I hope you'lll stick around.

Maddie

 

[ajup2it]

Thank you Maddie. This is helpful and I appreciate you taking the time to reply. The pool is just under 27000. We don't have much in the way of shade but if a spot could be considered shady (less direct sun), then that is where the algae forms. Its yellow in color and collects at the seams of my skimmer and under my stairs and lastly inside of my pool light. Then the circulation of my pool creates an area where a fine silt collects at the seams of my liner in places. Dead algae, I assume based on photos from others here. The silt, once disturbed, disappears completely into the water. Its gray-brown in color. No texture to it at all...like flour in water. I'll do what you suggest and again, thank you for taking the time to try to help me. I understand others couldn't help me or didn't want to. It would have been nicer had they just said nothing or said "hey, sorry I'm unable to help ya." and left it at that. Oh well. Thanks again.

 

[YippeeSkippy]

It sure does sound like regular algae, so that's a plus (if you can call any algae a "plus" LOL).

Taking care of the pool our way minimizes algae events enormously. Ive had my pool for 8 years now and never once had algae <knock wood!> but I also use a salt water chlorine generator. Those things are better than sliced bread, I swear! Worth every penny IMO. Perhaps you'll be able to look into one next year?

I hope you'll get a grasp on this algae outbreak and maybe give our methods a try some time. We'll be here if you have any questions about the pool at all.

Take Care,
Maddie

 

[ajup2it]

I do intend to give it a go next year for sure. I use a SWG as well. I have nothing but grass fields around me which I'm sure compounds the issue (no, not my land - HOA and yes they fertilize). I keep my pool closed when its mowed, when the neighbors mow, when I mow...etc. Do you recommend shocking once a week as well, like, next year, when I have it sorted out? Thanks again Maddie!

 

[JJ_Tex]

I bet if you provided details on your IC40 (how long are you running and at what %) someone might be able to offer suggestions on tweaking that and making more chlorine.

In the offseason, save up enough money for the proper test kit. While that may be more expensive than store bought test kits the chemicals you will use (bleach and muratic acid mainly) are way cheaper than what you would spend at a pool store.

 

[JJ_Tex]

Do you recommend shocking once a week as well, like, next year, when I have it sorted out? Thanks again Maddie!

Read up on the pool school articles to the left, but no, regular shocking is not needed, just regular testing to make sure you have the proper levels to prevent issues before they start. If you get out of balance and end up with algae, SLAM is recommended, which is essentially raising your pool to "shock" level and maintaining that level until the water is clear (I'm summarizing, there are much more details in the articles).