The picture in post 54 was right after I cleaned the filter, the next day it was at 140, so yes the day after I cleaned the filter.
Trying to get the CYA under control.
- Thread starter LordBob
- Start date
The picture in post 54 was right after I cleaned the filter, the next day it was at 140, so yes the day after I cleaned the filter.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,405
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Did you do a SLAM Process or try and treat any algae between the filter clean and now?
As much as you think the filter is clean the first place to look with a low flow problem is the filter.
I would backwash the filter, dump the DE, and charge it with new DE.
Yes I cleaned the filter while the pool was filling up, then SLAMmed the pool after. Good point, I have been through so many processes that I sometimes forget which and when.
Thanks, I was thinking that, but everything I have read says when the pressure goes up, but there are some small flowers from the trees that get in the pool, and they make way through the skimmer baskets, and the pump basket as well. Which is the debris that comes out when I bleed the air out of the filter, and the water starts coming out.
I was talking to an installer from the pool supply store (I know, stop rolling your eyes. That's why I'm asking here LOL) He said that even with liquid chlorine (and I can't remember what he called it exactly) the something solids (he used three letters) raise in your pool and the only way to get rid of them was through dilution. What is this he's talking about, in all my reading, here and other places, I have never ran across this. He wanted to sell the park an auto liquid chlorinator with sensors that test the water and when it drops adds the right amount of chlorine. Sounded good till he said the unit was $1,600 and that didn't include installation. Yikes!!! Needless to say we're still looking LOL
- May 3, 2014
- 58,345
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
I imagine he was talking about TDS. It does not mean anything in that form. We only concern ourselves with some of the components, like calcium, salt, CYA, etc.
You do not want an ORP system which is what he was selling. They are not reliable and take significant maintenance.
You do not want an ORP system which is what he was selling. They are not reliable and take significant maintenance.
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,405
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
That sounds like CYA he is talking about which you only get rid of by draining. CYA is solid enough to clog a filter if you follow the directions on many packages and add it directly into the skimmer. That is why we use the sock method to dissolve CYA in the water. Once it is dissolved in the water it will not solidify.
If you were going to spend that money I would suggest you put in a SWG instead of the liquid chlorinator.
Yes, TDS, Total D(something) Solids. he was saying that like CYA, and Calcium you could only get rid of a high value by diluting the pool water and that using liquid chlorine would cause the TDS to rise. Am I suppose to test for this too, and how do you test it, or was he just trying to confuse me because I had some knowledge?
Also I was looking at the filter and pump setup the other day, and there is a Hayward progrid DE separation tank model C9002SEP, I suppose I should have cleaned this when I cleaned the filter, reading the label on the tank (which I had to take pictures of to do because it's against the wall), and looking up the manual for it, it says it should be cleaned every time the filter is backwashed. My questions are. I am assuming I just wash it out like I did the filter? Do I need to put extra DE in for this or just clean it out? what is the purpose of it?
- Jul 21, 2013
- 52,405
- Pool Size
- 35000
- Surface
- Plaster
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-60
Just clean it out. The tank captures the dirty DE so you can environmentally dispose it. It filters out the dirty DE from the water. Where does the water output from the tank go? Back to the pool or waste?
http://edc.poolsupplyworld.com/wpdf/deseptank-manual.pdf
- May 3, 2014
- 58,345
- Pool Size
- 6000
- Surface
- Fiberglass
- Chlorine
- Salt Water Generator
- SWG Type
- Pentair Intellichlor IC-40
Liquid chlorine adds salt. That is the only 'dissolved solid' that it adds. And salt is a non factor for your chemistry values.
You can test for calcium in your water with your kit.
I have no information on the DE separation tank. Search the forum to see what you come up with.
You can test for calcium in your water with your kit.
I have no information on the DE separation tank. Search the forum to see what you come up with.
It empties into a pipe my assumption is that it goes into the sewer, so I would say waste. I found the manual online thanks for the link though.
Okay, I test the CH with my test kit, so that's okay. I had a feeling he was just trying to spit something out, when he started talking about that I could use Cal-Hypo disks and I said yeah, but then my CH will go up and I'm in the same boat having to dilute the water to lower it. These guys don't know what to do when they are talking to someone that knows a bit about what's going on (Thanks to you guys).
I have searched the forums, but not really much information in the forums about the separator.
Cleaned the separation tank today. Yikes, now I know why the filter was so packed with DE:
it was so packed in there, it was like concrete that was starting to setup. Before and after pictures, and smelled like a sewer.
it was so packed in there, it was like concrete that was starting to setup. Before and after pictures, and smelled like a sewer.
Yeah, it was time to backwash the filter, I cleaned the separation tank, before, and then again after the backwash. Adding 90% as suggested of DE.
Hi Guys, Me again lol.
I have been keeping a close eye on all my levels, everything is now running smooth. Since the beginning of August, my CYA peeked at 65, due to refills due to splash out my CYA is 40 now (not a problem) I figure it's dropping around 10ppm every 2 weeks or 5 per week. The Health department requires we have an auto chlorinator to maintain the free chlorine at a constant level. We have a puck type feeder, that I haven't been using since this whole thing with the CYA started.
I used pool math and figured for every 1 puck used it will raise my CYA 1ppm, I'm thinking that at the rate I am diluting from splash out it should be okay to use it. I loaded it with 10 pucks, and set it to 5, which is the max, I'm going to keep a close eye on my numbers.
I wanted to get some feed back on what you guys thought. I know you're not big on the tri-chlor feeders. I would like to hear from some of you that have experience with these, and maybe even use them now.
Just as some added information, I am adding between 3,000 to 5,000 gallons of water every 2 to 3 days depending on when the watering days hit.
I have been keeping a close eye on all my levels, everything is now running smooth. Since the beginning of August, my CYA peeked at 65, due to refills due to splash out my CYA is 40 now (not a problem) I figure it's dropping around 10ppm every 2 weeks or 5 per week. The Health department requires we have an auto chlorinator to maintain the free chlorine at a constant level. We have a puck type feeder, that I haven't been using since this whole thing with the CYA started.
I used pool math and figured for every 1 puck used it will raise my CYA 1ppm, I'm thinking that at the rate I am diluting from splash out it should be okay to use it. I loaded it with 10 pucks, and set it to 5, which is the max, I'm going to keep a close eye on my numbers.
I wanted to get some feed back on what you guys thought. I know you're not big on the tri-chlor feeders. I would like to hear from some of you that have experience with these, and maybe even use them now.
Just as some added information, I am adding between 3,000 to 5,000 gallons of water every 2 to 3 days depending on when the watering days hit.
DeanP66
0
You should be fine doing that for a while. Just be sure to supplement it with some liquid chlorine every once in a while to keep your FC level up where it should be. Remember, your FC requirements will rise some with every 10 ppm of CYA you add to your pool. Good job though. You really took the bull by the horns and turned that pool into a TFP pool!