Trying to get the CYA under control.

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Is it a necessity to put the reagent in 1 drop at a time? Knowing the FC level is going to be high I have been starting with 10 drops and then 5 and then 2 until I start to see it lightening, then do 1 at a time. The reason I ask is my FC test this afternoon was 8.5 (17 drops), I didn't add any chlorine even though I was shocking it. I just tested at 7:00 PM starting with 10 drops, but then just adding 1 at a time, my test results were 10.5, it's possible I miss counted the first test, but I'm pretty good at counting and paying attention remembering the numbers, but I'm pretty sure the FC can't go up without adding chlorine. So either I miss counted, or the way I have been doing the test affected the out come.
 
You should add drops one at a time. The dropper should be vertical and the drop should 'fall' out of the bottle. Little to no pressure should be applied to the bottle. Should take ~1 second between drops.

If you do not have a Speedstir, then the vial also needs to be vigorously swirled while doing the above.
 
Chlorine use in the pool seems to have leveled out to about a gallon and a half a day, much better than the 3 to 5 gallons before the SLAM. Tested this morning it was 8ppm only losing 1ppm over night, I adjusted it to the upper level for my CYA (10ppm because of the heat and use) checked it at 1:00PM in the heat of the day, and after accidentally over filling the pool in the morning LOL, it was still at 7.5ppm added 2qts to bring it back to 10ppm. much better than the 2 or 3ppm it was dropping to before. I probably shouldn't say this out loud, but it looks like things are fine tuned and going to run smoother, more on that in a couple days though LOL. I guess I should have SLAMmed it right after the second refill, because it was pretty much like a fresh fill.
 
Okay, I got to the pool late this morning had adjusted the chlorine to 10 ppm last night, at 10:30AM it was still 9 ppm, so I think that's under control now. My Ph on the other hand keeps drifting up, not crazy high but, I'll adjust it to 7.5 right in the middle, and pretty much every morning it's at 7.8 still in the zone, but I adjust it back to 7.5. did the full test this morning:

FC: 9 (adjusted to 10)
CC: 0.5
Ph: 7.8 (haven't adjusted yet)
TA: 110
CH: 275
CYA: 50

I have read the Pool School Book and says it tends to drift up when there is high TA, but my TA is right in the middle of the suggested range, am I missing something, or is this a normal? Before the CYA lowering the Ph always held steady, not sure if having a CYA of 500 - 600 has anything to do with that, I just figured once you got it at the level you wanted it stayed, but a lot of the things I thought, and was told by the other guy have been blown out of the water this last month LOL.
 
I have read the Pool School Book and says it tends to drift up when there is high TA, but my TA is right in the middle of the suggested range, am I missing something,
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Recommended TA range is 70 - 90 and some folks run their TA down as low as 50 to reduce TA rise. Lower is better. See Pool School - Recommended Levels

My Ph on the other hand keeps drifting up, not crazy high but, I'll adjust it to 7.5 right in the middle, and pretty much every morning it's at 7.8 still in the zone, but I adjust it back to 7.5.
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The pucks you were using also contained acid which tamed any PH rise. Now the PH rise is visible to you using straight chlorine.
 

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Okay, I was going by the numbers in the tft-100 test kit, says for salt water pools 60 - 90, and for manually Chlorinated pools 100 - 120 it's what was handy when I was testing it just figured those numbers would be right. I'll try and remember. I guess that's just one more thing I need to fine tune LOL.

The acid in the pucks would explain the stability
 
If you are getting a lot of swimmers and kids jumping in a lot (cannonballs), they are causing aeration naturally. That tends to drive up the pH. The lower you can keep the TA, the slower the pH will rise. I'd recommend that when pH hits 7.8, dose it down to 7.4 so you don't have to add MA so often.
 
DeanP66 said:
If you are getting a lot of swimmers and kids jumping in a lot (cannonballs), they are causing aeration naturally. That tends to drive up the pH. The lower you can keep the TA, the slower the pH will rise. I'd recommend that when pH hits 7.8, dose it down to 7.4 so you don't have to add MA so often.
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when I run the adjusted numbers in the pool math app, it suggests to lower the pH between 7.0 and 7.2 then aerate. You're suggesting basically the same thing, but at a slower rate? Am I understanding that right?
 
If you're trying to lower TA, then yes, add MA to lower to 7.0. That will drop TA some. Then aerate pool to raise pH only back up to around 7.4. Repeat until you're happy with your TA number. I just lowered mine to 60 yesterday because it had crept up to around 100 and it was affecting my CSI adversely.
 
LordBob said:
when I run the adjusted numbers in the pool math app, it suggests to lower the pH between 7.0 and 7.2 then aerate. You're suggesting basically the same thing, but at a slower rate? Am I understanding that right?
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I see no reason to be aggressive in lowering the TA on your type of pool. A TA of 110 is fine. You will get PH rise but you are checking the pool daily. Whenever you lower the PH using MA you will be lowering the TA. While the PH will rise back up the TA will not. Over time, cumulatively the TA will get lower towards your target. No reason for you to be aggressive in lowering PH and aerating an speeding up the process.
 
ajw22 said:
I see no reason to be aggressive in lowering the TA on your type of pool. A TA of 110 is fine. You will get PH rise but you are checking the pool daily. Whenever you lower the PH using MA you will be lowering the TA. While the PH will rise back up the TA will not. Over time, cumulatively the TA will get lower towards your target. No reason for you to be aggressive in lowering PH and aerating an speeding up the process.
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Yes, I agree. The pH seems to be holding pretty steady around 7.6 today, I figured I'd just keep an eye on it and do like you said, lower it when it needs to be, and let it regulate over time.
 
What next?? So I go to check the FC and pH this afternoon (107° for the high today), and the pump is sounding a little funny, Like air in the pipes, I check the flow meter (which is usually around 140) it's at 100, the other pressure gauge on that same pipe is just under 5, when it's usually at 10 or 15. The filter gauge is at 10 just slightly less than usual (it usually runs between 12 and 15 since I cleaned it). They have always been really consistent since I cleaned the filter and got the pool up and running again.

I swept and vacuumed the pool this morning, but everything seemed fine, when I finished I cleaned out the basket, like I always do, and purged the air from the system. I did notice that a little debris came out of the air release, but it has always done that when I purge the air from the filter and the water first starts coming out.

Any thoughts? Is this something I need to do something about? I haven't found anything in the pool school book about anything like this. The pool has only been going again for a week since I tore down and cleaned the grids,and I added the Manufactures DE amount after. I have vacuumed the pool 3 times when I was SLAMMING it, and then today so 4 total.IMG_1744[1].jpgIMG_1743[1].jpgIMG_1745[1].jpg
 
ajw22 said:
The flowmeter pic in post #54 showed 110 versus your 100 today.

I would keep an eye on the pump. What type of pump is it? When you overhauled the pool did you disassemble the pump and look at the impeller and shroud?
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Yeah, the next day after that pic it went up to 140, and has been steady there until today. I disabled the pump by taking the on and off triggers off the timer and kept the switch to off. It's a Pentair Whisperflo High Performance pump. I did not inspect the pump in any way, it is 1 year old installed June of 2017. The pool was also replastered, and repiped, so it's virtually a brand new pool.
 

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