Troubleshooting Jandy Pro VS pump

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chedlin

Member
Apr 11, 2017
7
Pflugerville, TX
I think I was the victim of a nearby lightning strike. I had my Aqualink panel iQ20 hard wired to my wiring closet through a burried ethernet cable. My network switch, firewall computer, and Aqualink panel were all dead. My Oasis Dolphin Z5 also died, it was in the water. I'm wondering if the pool itself got hit. I was out of town, and neighbors reported a strike in front of my house, so my theory is that the Ethernet cable got me via induction.

The pump breaker was tripped. Applying power to the iAqualink RS4 board brought out some flickering on the LEDs but that was about it. I disconnected the iQ20 and it still didn't work. A friend had a Jandy PDA-PS8 board that I swapped in, keeping my RS4 control module.

If the iQ20 is disconnected the system seems to boot up ok, and in service mode I can control all of the valves, lights, and spa blower. If I connect the iQ20 it doesn't turn on at all, so I have ordered an iQ30 (The RS4 is revision T).
I connected an oscilloscope across the yellow and green leads on the RS485 connection and it seems to be sending signals, but the pump is completely dead. Can the I get replacement electronics for the pump? Again, remember that the breaker was tripped, so there is no telling what went through there. Should I get a less expensive IQPUMP01 controller to test the pump independently of the now Frankenstein Aqualink panel?

I'm guessing a professional repair would be fairly close to my insurance deductible of $5500 ($2k for all new Aqualink components and $3k for the pump).
 
Test the pump drive with the RS-485 jumper method. Using small sections of 22 AWG wire, jump pins 1 to 3 and 2 to 4. These wires can be made by cutting off a section of the RS-485 wires. Re-install the connector and attach the access cover. Apply power to the motor. The motor should spin at 2600 RPM indefinitely. If the motor works, there is a problem with the RS-485 line or with the controller.

Jandy sells very few replacement parts for their pumps and not to retail consumers.

Some members have had good experiences with BP Engineering, Inc. in Santa Rosa, CA, repairing their Jandy boards. They can be contacted at bpengineering "at" sbcglobal "dot com”.

What model pump are we discussing?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
ajw22 said:
Test the pump drive with the RS-485 jumper method. Using small sections of 22 AWG wire, jump pins 1 to 3 and 2 to 4. These wires can be made by cutting off a section of the RS-485 wires. Re-install the connector and attach the access cover. Apply power to the motor. The motor should spin at 2600 RPM indefinitely. If the motor works, there is a problem with the RS-485 line or with the controller.

Jandy sells very few replacement parts for their pumps and not to retail consumers.

Some members have had good experiences with BP Engineering, Inc. in Santa Rosa, CA, repairing their Jandy boards. They can be contacted at bpengineering "at" sbcglobal "dot com”.

What model pump are we discussing?
Click to expand...

Thanks! That test procedure will help a lot as soon as it stops raining! The pump is a Jandy VSSHP270AUT. I do know the owner of a pool builder (not in my city though) that has Jandy contacts if I can tell him what I need.
Do we know which pins are the RS-485 data pins?
 
chedlin said:
Thanks! That test procedure will help a lot as soon as it stops raining! The pump is a Jandy VSSHP270AUT. I do know the owner of a pool builder (not in my city though) that has Jandy contacts if I can tell him what I need.
Do we know which pins are the RS-485 data pins?
Click to expand...
Red and black are power, green and yellow are data.
 
I replaced my iAqualink 2.0 module (with a 3.0 because it didn't cost any more) and the pump shows as "Not Installed" in the VSP setup menu. I have tried two used drive units with the same results. I have verified the RS485 cable is intact with a multi-meter (10V DC between pins 1-4, and varying AC voltage across the data wires, I could hook up the oscilloscope again, but I'm pretty confident that the wiring is good, I get the same readings at both ends of the cable).

I have not done the 1 to 3 and 2 to 4 test again with the used drive units, I am concerned about damaging them when the seller will otherwise accept a return. Is there any documentation to support this procedure? Connecting 10 VDC to one data pin and grounding the other doesn't seem like that good of an idea.. Although I haven't determined that the pump outputs 10VDC, that may just be the controller? If I don't get a reply I'll check that before proceeding.

I'm not missing any setup steps, am I? I replaced the large assembly E0260600, but kept by RS4 MCU board. All the settings were lost. The new board seems to be a slightly older revision, same assembly number, but the PCB # is earlier. But given that the iAqualink 3.0 works perfectly, I have little reason to believe this is an issue. I have swapped the RS485 ports on the controller without change, the iAqualink works on both, the pump doesn't on either.
 
chedlin said:
.I have not done the 1 to 3 and 2 to 4 test again with the used drive units, I am concerned about damaging them when the seller will otherwise accept a return. Is there any documentation to support this procedure? Connecting 10 VDC to one data pin and grounding the other doesn't seem like that good of an idea.. Although I haven't determined that the pump outputs 10VDC, that may just be the controller? If I don't get a reply I'll check that before proceeding..
Click to expand...

16C1C7B9-356D-4DE7-802A-90F31E830560.jpeg
 

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