Troubleshooting dead Pentair IC20 SWG and Power Center

[Andyroam]

Hi All,

My Pentair IC20 SWG appears dead with no lights. Looking through previous TFP posts, I figured I'd check the Power Center to check that it's getting power and passing that onto the IC20. First, checking the line input voltage, the transformer is getting 2 x 120VAC (yellow and white transformer wires) which seems fine. However, the green LED on the circuit board was not lit. Next, I checked the 10amp fuse (red wires) - of course, the fuse holder immediately fell apart - this seems a common 'feature'. On inspection, I could measure 30VAC across the fuse holder, but the fuse had indeed blown. I replaced the fuse holder with an in-line fuse holder and a 250V 10A AGC fuse from Home Depot. It worked for a split second - green LED on for an instant until the fuse blew again.

I'm not sure where the problem lies. I suspect it's the little rectifier board (pictured), something pulling too much current, but nothing looks shorted or burned out. Both the IC20 cell and Power Center are over 10 years old, so both could be suspect!

I'm hoping someone has solved a similar problem or has some useful suggestions for troubleshooting.

Thanks in advance,

Andy

 

[Jimrahbe]

Andy,

Did the fuse blow with the IC20 connected to the power center or not..

Obviously, if the cell was not connected, the power center is bad.

You can't measure 240 volts AC by the "2x" method when a transformer is involved.. You must measure between L1 and L2, or in your case between the yellow and white wires..

I would get the power center working without the cell connected... I have an internal power center, but with the cell off (not generating any chlorine) I get 40 VDC going to the cell, and 35 VDC when the cell is actually making chlorine.

Unfortunately, I don't have any way to guarantee that it is the power center or the cell..



Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Andyroam]

Hi Jim,

You're absolutely right, and on checking I get 240VAC across the 2 line wires (yellow & white).
As per your suggestion, I disconnected the cell and put a new fuse in the Power Center. The green LED lights up and stays lit, with a reading of 27VDC between the red and black wires that lead to the cell connector (spec is 22-39VDC).

This is starting to look like a dead IC20 cell $$$. Are there any ways to test or repair the cell?

Thanks,
Andy

 

[Jimrahbe]

Andy,

I too suspect the cell, but you really can't rule out the power center unless you have the ability to put a load on it...

About the only thing you can repair on the cell is the flow switch assy. I don't think it could pop the fuse.

How big is your pool? An IC 20 is really only good for pools that are 10K or less.. A cell needs to be at least 2 x the volume of the pool.

Thanks,

Jim R.

 

[Andyroam]

Hi Jim,
My pool's fairly irregular in size, but I'd estimate 12-13,000 gallons. That said, it's less than $100 to upgrade from an IC20 to IC40.

Thanks,
Andy

 

[Andyroam]

Andy,

I too suspect the cell, but you really can't rule out the power center unless you have the ability to put a load on it...

About the only thing you can repair on the cell is the flow switch assy. I don't think it could pop the fuse.

How big is your pool? An IC 20 is really only good for pools that are 10K or less.. A cell needs to be at least 2 x the volume of the pool.

Thanks,

Jim R.

Thanks for your help - I replaced the dead IC20 with a new IC40 and it's running like a champ. I left a small donation to TFP as this saved me from calling out a pool tech and the inevitable sales people.

Best,
Andy

 

[Jimrahbe]

Andy,

Glad you were able to get your system up and running...

We all appreciate you becoming a supporter.. Without supporters, TFP could not exist..

Thanks,

Jim R.