Transformer keeps blowing, think it's an actuator maybe?

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Note: the transformer and/or its fuse can be damaged by a short circuit.
  • Water in the JVA can cause a short.
  • A cut or spliced JVA cord can cause a short.
  • A damaged chip on the PCB (usually a driver chip) can cause a short.
 
Have you opened your JVA actuators and checked for water inside, corrosion, and general condition?

That may tell you which one is bad.
 
Do you have the other transformers that have failed?
 
@ajw22 do you know where the relay drivers are on that board?... he's got a newer one and I'm not sure if they're still socketed?

@trophft, when you're done checking on that transformer fuse... see if you can spot the relay drivers. There should be a pair of chips with 20 pins, and ULN2803 on them... they may be in sockets or be soldered to the board. If your valves are ok, you'll want to replace the drivers if they're socketed. If they're soldered to the board you can test them with a meter.
 
ogdento said:
@ajw22 do you know where the relay drivers are on that board?... he's got a newer one and I'm not sure if they're still socketed?
Click to expand...
This maybe an old style PCB but shows what you should be looking for.

Jandy Aqualink RS - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com www.troublefreepool.com

The Aqualink PCB has two socketed chips. In the picture below, the chip in the blue circle controls the valve actuator relays, and the chip in the yellow circle controls the high-voltage relays.

Jandy_Aqualink_Relay_Driver_Locations.jpg
 
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On the newer versions of the Aqualink board the relay drivers are surface mount parts and not socketed. See photos.

I’m not sure I see how the relay drivers would cause the issue in this case. The relays switch the 24vac power to one of the two terminals on the JVA, with the third terminal connected to the other side of the 24vac power.

The transformer blows when the JVA is plugged in, and doesn’t blow when the JVA is unplugged. The relay coil and the driver are still there regardless of whether the JVA is plugged in, it’s unlikely that it’s shorted, as the fuse would blow with or without the JVA connected.

I would suggest getting a multimeter and set it on low ohms range and then measure the resistance at the JVA connector end. Measure between the center pin to each of the outside pins. I would guess it should be on the range of 240 ohms or more, as that would equate to 100mA of current draw. You should be able to read if one side or the other is shorted.

Have you inspect the cable along it’s whole length, is there any chance a rodent might have chewed on it causing a short in the wires?

(Edited to change coil resistance to 240 ohms as 24vac/240 ohms = 0.1 amps)
 

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Jimrahbe said:
Yes to this!!!

Most likely all your transformers are ok, they just have a bad fuse inside...

I should become a Jandy pool guy, as apparently, the skill level bar is set at a pretty low level... :mrgreen:

Jim R.
Click to expand...
Haven't replaced a Jandy transformer in many years, but that new transformer doesn't look like it has the compartment the "hidden" fuse is/was in. Its not/wasn't a standard size fuse and is soldered in place.
 
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The Intellicenter transformer has a Littlefuse device buried under the tape where the common primary connection is... wonder if these Jandy's are similar.

As long as you get a "pool rated" aka safety transformer, you can use anything that will give you 24 volts / 60VA (2.5 amps) - I've seen used Intellitouch/Easytouch transformers for 100 bucks or less.
 
Transformers sometimes have what's called a thermal fuse which is soldered inline and is more like a dual function fuse that it is temperature rated and amp rated so when either heat or amperage hits its rating it'll burn out and need replacement. Cheap insurance.
 
Thanks all for the help so far! I ordered this Amazon transformer for under $100 and just got in swapped out (just in time for the freeze coming tonight!). Back in business!8353355253510392842.jpg


Looking at the old transformer and I might remove that blue tape and try to locate that mystery fuse. As for the actuators likely causing the problem, i'll wait until the weather warms up before I tackle those.
As for now, it's time to SLAM and get that water balanced again!
RE: water
the clarity is actually crystal clear, but there's a thick layer of green all long the bottom. so maybe just vacuuming and minimal scrubbing will get us ready for opening weekend!
 
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trophft said:
RE: water
the clarity is actually crystal clear, but there's a thick layer of green all long the bottom. so maybe just vacuuming and minimal scrubbing will get us ready for opening weekend!
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You water stratified while the pump was off.

Circulate the water and then do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test and see if the SLAM Process is needed.
 
If your water is clear with just the green stuff on the bottom you may want to vacuum it up carefully either to waste but then need to replace the lost water or vacuum to the filter and then clean the filter.
 
wireform said:
If your water is clear with just the green stuff on the bottom you may want to vacuum it up carefully either to waste but then need to replace the lost water or vacuum to the filter and then clean the filter.
Click to expand...
don't have a way to vacuum to waste with current setup, but I was definitely planning to pull the cartridges and give them a good cleaning before opening weekend. might need to clean them halfway through vacuum if pressure gets too high.
 

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