Took over my pool

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T

Tx-C

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Bronze Supporter
Aug 23, 2017
120
Midlothian/ Texas
My pool was complete in August of last year and i took over my pool's balancing. I still have almost a full tub full of 3"jumbo tabs from leslie's Pool that i place into a feeder. Once these are gone, i would like to use liquid chlorine but not sure how to go about that, i'll dig into that some more by going through posts on here and looking over Pool School some more. It has been raining on/off here in North Texas and i just got back in town, my water is kinda dull and i cant see the bottom on the deep end. I'm using the TFT-100 kit and below are my readings from today.

CL-5
Br-10
PH-8.2
FC-5ppm
CH-225
TA-130
CYA-20

My PH has always been high when checked since the pool was installed, usually around 8.0. After looking over pool school, i did notice it mentioned that i could have a high PH for a while with new plaster for the first 6 months. I think the numbers i have are pretty close to what is recommended, can someone provide some info on what i need to add to balance this out and get my water looking clear again :). Is a using a Clarifier or PH reducer like they sell at Home Depot a good idea? Thank you all for your help!
 
What test kit are you using?

See recommended-pool-chemicals

The only pH reducer you need is muratic acid. You don’t need clarifiers. Your pH is high and your TA is high. Use MA to lower your pH to 7.4. That will also reduce your TA over time. Use PoolMath to calculate dosage. Retest pH after 30 minutes and if your pH is still high repeat. Check and adjust your pH every day or two. Once your TA is 60 then you can back off and reduce your pH to 7.6-7.8.

Do you have an autofill? What is the pH, TA, CH of your fill water?

Use your pucks until your CYA is between 30-40 and then stop using them. Find a supplier for liquid chlorine or bleach with no additives. Don’t use Clorox bleach that has Cloromax Technologies which are polymers not suiable for pools.

Might you need to clean your cartridge filter?

When the weather clears do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test which will tell you if you need to follow the SLAM Process process to clear your water.
 
Tx-C,

Next time, please report your reading as follows..

FC
CC
pH
TA
CH
CYA
Salt
Temp

There is no need to report Cl and you don't have Br if you are using chlorine (CL)..

It just makes it easier for everyone here to read..

Thanks,

Jim R.
 
ajw22 said:
What test kit are you using?

See recommended-pool-chemicals

The only pH reducer you need is muratic acid. You don’t need clarifiers. Your pH is high and your TA is high. Use MA to lower your pH to 7.4. That will also reduce your TA over time. Use PoolMath to calculate dosage. Retest pH after 30 minutes and if your pH is still high repeat. Check and adjust your pH every day or two. Once your TA is 60 then you can back off and reduce your pH to 7.6-7.8.

Do you have an autofill? What is the pH, TA, CH of your fill water?

Use your pucks until your CYA is between 30-40 and then stop using them. Find a supplier for liquid chlorine or bleach with no additives. Don’t use Clorox bleach that has Cloromax Technologies which are polymers not suiable for pools.

Might you need to clean your cartridge filter?

When the weather clears do a Overnight Chlorine Loss Test which will tell you if you need to follow the SLAM Process process to clear your water.
Click to expand...


Thanks for replying, I'm using the TFT-100 test kit, I'm glad you linked the pool math page because i couldn't find it when i clicked on the Pool Math link on the upper left. I do not have an autofill, I will test the PH,TA,CH this afternoon when i get home of my fill water. As far as the filter, I just cleaned that last weekend prior to leaving town and it needed it pretty bad. I will work on bringing down the PH with MA and update.
 
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