Glad to see you emphasize testing. I never use borax or baking soda, so if I had a SWCG, I'd never use any of the Bs, but IMO it's the knowledge that is the key to the method. Knowledge that comes from education and a decent test kit.
Excellent article, that'll be a great link to give to people whenever they ask the "what should I be testing on my new pool" question Great idea on profiling users too, it's always neat to put a face and background to the online "voice"!
I just can't say thanks enough for being so specific and detailed - I'm a newbie and you just answered all my "where to put chemicals" and "how long to wait" questions. You saved me a lot of time and clicking. I hope everyone will just add this link in their signatures, and suggest it for newbie reading. Awesome job!
Thanks so much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I did the "switch" and found the article to be GREAT! Have aslo forwarded to my friends contemplating making the "switch". Its easy reading and is in plain english that we can all understand.
We have recommended FC levels that will be trouble free.
Typical pool store FC levels assume very low CYA levels and make up for the problems people frequently experience at those levels by having you shock the pool frequently, typically once a week. That approach doesn't keep the water safe all week long and occasionally leads to major problems.
One small question: Most of the recommendations for BBB state guidelines for plaster, vinyl, gunite, fiberglass, etc... However, I never see the recommendation for concrete pools. I can't be the only person in the entire Northern Hemisphere with one of these well-made, old guys. My pool is rubber based paint over concrete, no plaster. What guide should I follow?
Also would that change if I get a LQ? I am particularly interested in the PH/ALK because we get consistent iron staining, even though the vitamin C works wonders, I can't keep the staining away for a long period of time or even the entire season.
I also imagine that the recommendation would change if we change the pool surface? A rubber based paint to water based latex? we are considering a remodel of plaster over the concrete as well. Any links to this process or thoughts would be appreciated. We don't want to go from bad to worse if you know what I mean.
Ok...so, I should follow the guidelines for vinyl? Not sure I would agree with that especially in the area of CH. I have read in other threads the discussion about switching to the SWG chart when one goes with an LQ? Just curious. I guess it doesn't matter if you shoot for the middle. I wil say that I do have bits of exposed concrete in the pool. (chipping). Not sure if that would change anything. (not trying to argue either, :? . I am trying to become more of an expert on what really works for my pool, because it always seems a bit cloudy. Just a slight tad)
There are a few examples of trying to use the SWG chart with a Liquidator not working. There hasn't been enough experience with it to say for sure, but so far it looks like it doesn't have the same lower FC level advantage that a SWG does.
If you have exposed concrete, you should follow the plaster recommendations.
OMG I am so glad I found this info!!! thank you so much for posting, I only wish I would have found it this year when I opened my pool for the first time. I knew it should be able to be done this way. I am a first time pool owner this was my first season with my pool, we opened it and I have just been looking for advice everywhere. There were left over tablets from the previous owner of our house so we have been using the tabs this year and getting advice from anywhere we could. We have been testing with strips but I am going to buy the tf-100 for next year and start the season with the BBB method. It seems soooo much easier than what I have been doing. Like going to the pool store if I have a question getting told I need something unrelated buying it putting it in and then finding out I have to buy something else to fix there fix!
New pool owner here. I've been going to PAP and am trying to learn how to do the testing myself. I have been so indoctrinated into shocking weekly, I have to ask to make sure I'm understanding correctly... if using the BBB method, there is no need to shock the pool?
There is no need to shock the pool under normal conditions. The only times you shock the pool are when there is visible algae, CC is higher than 0.5, there is some other kind of obvious organic contamination, or when you are losing chlorine overnight.