TF100 Test Kit

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Billtkat

Well-known member
Apr 25, 2020
117
Oro Valley, AZ
Got the new kit out an pretty excited however disappointed in how the pH level test is really just like my cheapo version and no way to tell exactly where my pH is when it is sky high - I know it is way up but exactly how much not sure so of course my alkalinity is like 170 - Am I missing some other way to test pH and if not any guidance on where to start with the amount of acid to start bringing it back in line ? thanks
 
The Phenol Red for pH is about the best on the market and it is pretty cheap.....hence it appears in inexpensive tests as well.

So that test is purple when the pH is about 8or above. Are you saying that's the result you are getting? Let me know and I'll tell you how to dose it.
 
This helped me a lot.....others it doesn't seem to.

First of all the intensity doesn't matter.....it is the shade.

the colors going from low pH to high pH are

yellow 6.8 and lower
yellow orange 7.0
orange 7.2
orange red 7.4-7.5
red 7.6-7.8
red violet 8.0
violet 8.2 and higher

So, still assuming you are higher than 8.2 (and that should be violet, not red.)

Simply put 8.2 in the poolmath calculator and calculate a dosage to bring you to 7.2 or so. Then read the test again and keep repeating until your pH comes down into the 7's and you are all set. (probably will only take a second test to get there....let us know)
 
I did see someone else suggested using 4 drops instead of 5, as it made the shade easier to match to the indicator. I don't remember who it was otherwise I would give credit, but I do think it makes the colors a little easier to match up.

I had been using the pH test from my K2006 kit because I found it easier to read, but I've been trying the test from the TF100(K1000) again with 4 drops and finding it easier.
 
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duraleigh said:
This helped me a lot.....others it doesn't seem to.

First of all the intensity doesn't matter.....it is the shade.

the colors going from low pH to high pH are

yellow 6.8 and lower
yellow orange 7.0
orange 7.2
orange red 7.4-7.5
red 7.6-7.8
red violet 8.0
violet 8.2 and higher

So, still assuming you are higher than 8.2 (and that should be violet, not red.)

Simply put 8.2 in the poolmath calculator and calculate a dosage to bring you to 7.2 or so. Then read the test again and keep repeating until your pH comes down into the 7's and you are all set. (probably will only take a second test to get there....let us know)
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that works - thanks !
 
Billtkat said:
that works - thanks !
Click to expand...
duraleigh said:
This helped me a lot.....others it doesn't seem to.

First of all the intensity doesn't matter.....it is the shade.

the colors going from low pH to high pH are

yellow 6.8 and lower
yellow orange 7.0
orange 7.2
orange red 7.4-7.5
red 7.6-7.8
red violet 8.0
violet 8.2 and higher

So, still assuming you are higher than 8.2 (and that should be violet, not red.)

Simply put 8.2 in the poolmath calculator and calculate a dosage to bring you to 7.2 or so. Then read the test again and keep repeating until your pH comes down into the 7's and you are all set. (probably will only take a second test to get there....let us know)
Click to expand...
I need to re check as I go however today it looks like my CYA after swapping the water in / out is 20-30 based on how you recommended so I will say 30. I did all the water fill / drain yesterday and ran pump low speed all night and low / high today so water should be mixed - Post acid add today after a couple hours or so I will add bleach to get FC to 3 this afternoon - Very cloudy here in Tucson today so no issues with the sun . One thing I not sure as it has never been an issue is hardness. I did get a plaster job so maybe that is why ? but my hardness test came to 80. I do have that shock that I think adds to the hardness I could use like a bag a week and see if it helps elevate that - thoughts on that ? I know that is something I want to be careful of -
 
That is a really low CH for water in the desert.
Test the TA and CH of your fill water.
 
If your pool water CH is 80, and I would check that, you need to add calcium now. Cal Hypo will be too slow. Target 250 ppm CH. But check your testing before you go there.
 
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mknauss said:
If your pool water CH is 80, and I would check that, you need to add calcium now. Cal Hypo will be too slow. Target 250 ppm CH. But check your testing before you go there.
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I will . Also, how important is that CSI part - When I show my numbers all in line for example it shows scaling when I move CH up to 200 or or corrosive when pH is 7.2 / CH 200 - But at 250 CH it is now balanced. his is just playing with numbers however is CSI critical if all test are in the range ?
 

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It is critical for your pool surface to keep the CSI between -0.3 and 0.3 most of the time. You can go lower or higher for awhile, but not a long time.

Can you share your Poolmath logs? Your values you state and CSI do not make sense. I would like to see your data.
 
mknauss said:
It is critical for your pool surface to keep the CSI between -0.3 and 0.3 most of the time. You can go lower or higher for awhile, but not a long time.

Can you share your Poolmath logs? Your values you state and CSI do not make sense. I would like to see your data.
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I was just plugging in numbers to see how it impacts results. HOWEVER - I did just check the water out of the same faucet outside the pool was filled with and the results was 80 , same as the pool ! I have the water spinner and it went from red to blue with 8 drops - Very surprised since never had an issues with being this low before but with that said I have used tabs and hypo shock for the pool each year. This is my first year using bleach so I am not fighting the CYA each year. - Since this is something like CYA that you have to drain to fix how low can I go and be safe - I think the range says 200-400 and certainly want to be careful adding this
 
You should target 250 ppm CH. You may have to order the calcium chloride on line. Not many places in Arizona have a need for calcium.
 
mknauss said:
You should target 250 ppm CH. You may have to order the calcium chloride on line. Not many places in Arizona have a need for calcium.
Click to expand...
mknauss said:
You should target 250 ppm CH. You may have to order the calcium chloride on line. Not many places in Arizona have a need for calcium.
Click to expand...
I know the pool store is not the best place however I have seen it while there for test and a pool light bulb. I know they have also tested my water prior to me getting my test kit and they were getting 74 but every time I asked they said not to worry - Checking the water source I used and getting the same results as the pool makes me think the number I am getting is right. I even used the HTH test 5 drops , swirl the drop by drop until it turned blue and 8 it was on all my test --
Is calcium chloride the best stuff / only stuff ? I thought I saw a liquid version however my be wrong on that part -
 
Why are you not using your TF100 CH test?

Calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate

Liquid would be a lot of volume. I only know of dry versions. De-icer (but it must be very pure) is one product.
 
mknauss said:
Why are you not using your TF100 CH test?

Calcium chloride or calcium chloride dihydrate

Liquid would be a lot of volume. I only know of dry versions. De-icer (but it must be very pure) is one product.
Click to expand...
I am using it but prior to receiving the kit it I had the HTH and the pool store. Had to do something before it arrived. I used my today TF100 , got 80. Used the HTH as well as I like playing with the spinner it was an 80 too - Pool store prior was saying 74 - All helps me know I am testing properly as well -
 
OK -- I would still like to see your Poolmath logs. Can you share them? Go in the App, touch the gear icon upper right, scroll down to Sharing.
 

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