Taking care of my pool

Thank you Kim, I don't use the tablets, I use bleach, MA and when needed baking soda. My tap water reads at a 325, not sure if that has anything to do with it. I keep thinking it's something I am doing with the chemicals.

Dirk, I would like to hear about you adventures when you have time. :)

Thank you both.
 
Dirk, I would like to hear about you adventures when you have time.

Here's my thread about the water softener and the rain water, along with a sort of journal of how I learned a lot of what you're learning in your thread:

Water softener connected to auto fill, and new plaster start up.

The short-ish version:

Your fill CH is about the same as mine. Only pure water evaporates from your pool, so the CH that's already in your pool stays there. As you refill the water loss with your CH-rich water, your adding more CH to your pool, which also doesn't evaporate. So by doing nothing more than keeping your pool full of water, your CH is rising. Even if your fill water had only CH50, this accumulating would still take place (it would just take longer). So there's only two solutions to this problem: replace your high-CH pool water with lower-CH water, or never add any CH and maintain the level of CH that's already in there.

Rain water has virtually no CH in it. So what I did was to drain off an inch or two of my pool just before each coming rain, and let the rain fill the pool back up. This, in essence, is like draining your pool to replace the CH-high water with new fill water and starting over, but using CH-zero rain water instead of CH325 street water, and doing so an inch or two at a time. I increased the efficiency of this process by collecting rain from off the roof and diverting that into the pool along with the rain that was falling directly in. You can read in my thread how I did that and what the results were. It works, but requires some effort, and only does any good during the rainy season, which in my area is not so much!

The better way for me was to stop putting any CH into the water, so that I wouldn't have to replace any of it in the future to bring down CH, with rain water or otherwise. I did that by replumbing my autofill system to my water softener. My pool started off with CH350, from the original fill from the street. I actually lowered by CH to 325 using the rain water experiment. Since then, by replacing evaporation with the CH-zero water from my water softener, my CH has remained at 325 for months. Theoretically, if this keeps up, I'll never have to deal with the issues associated with high CH (like scaling), and I'll never have to replace my water due to "CH Creep."

I detail in my thread how I connected by pool to my softener, while also maintaining its connection to the original source of city water. This way I can alternate my fill water source from CH-zero water to CH-350 water, whenever I need.

Why you ask? Because if you have an active pool, with a lot of people splashing water out of it, and if you replace that water with CH-zero water (from rain or softener), eventually you'll see your CH level go down (CH doesn't leave your pool through evaporation, but it can leave your pool if people are splashing water out of it). And low CH is as bad for your pool as high CH (a little worse, actually). So you could add chemicals to address that. Or you could just top off your pool for a while with CH-high water, to restore a healthy level of CH for your pool, without having to buy any chemical to do so.

Let me know if you need any other details...
 
Thank you Dirk, I will be reading more of your thread this evening. We don't get to much rain in here in Vegas. I wonder what others are doing about the hard water we have in here in Vegas. :confused:
 
Hi Will, I just saw this post. I am feeling more confident with the testing and adding the chemicals that are needed. I am having an issue with keeping my CH down. I think I may drain 50% of my water this weekend. I may need to do this every opening of the pool for the summer or try to figure out how to add a water softener to the refill valve. Your house looks amazing!
 
Hi Will, I just saw this post. I am feeling more confident with the testing and adding the chemicals that are needed. I am having an issue with keeping my CH down. I think I may drain 50% of my water this weekend. I may need to do this every opening of the pool for the summer or try to figure out how to add a water softener to the refill valve. Your house looks amazing!

So as you know we have very hard water here , however, as long as the rest of your pool is balanced you will be fine with a high ch. there are some mods on here that live in AZ and have CH over 800 so once I found that out I was relieved and I have not thought about my CH much since then . I have had zero problems and I would encourage you to just keep rolling the TFP way :)
 
So as you know we have very hard water here , however, as long as the rest of your pool is balanced you will be fine with a high ch. there are some mods on here that live in AZ and have CH over 800 so once I found that out I was relieved and I have not thought about my CH much since then . I have had zero problems and I would encourage you to just keep rolling the TFP way :)

Thank you Will, I will definitely be taking care of our pool the TFP way [emoji4].
 
Good Morning,

I use Bleach our pool, and it does not have a SWG. I wanted to ask what do i need to buy to test the salt that has accumulated in the water from the Bleach and MA? Thank you,
 

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You have some salt in your water. But it is not significant to your chemistry values.

You do need to test CH and manage CSI. Once you can no longer keep your CSI around 0 or just over you will need to drain and refill to lower your CH. By keeping your pH and TA low you can manage up to about 800 to 1000 ppm CH.

Your CH you report in your fill water is pretty high for Colorado river water. Do you get your water from the Las Vegas Valley Water District?
 
The water is from the Las Vegas Valley Water District. The PH is kind of hard to manage, we do lower it to keep the TA at 70 and CSI down. When we had the pool built the designer suggested that we have a spill over on the spa, and it wraps around the spa, sounded good at the time. The water spills over all day when the pump is on, it looks good, not to good for the PH, we didn't know better when the pool was built :( . I will be completing a full water test later today. Thank you for all of your input.
 
Colorado River water normally runs right at 250 CH and 130 TA. pH about 8.

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I would suspect you can adjust your flow such that you do not run the spillover at high rates.

Do you have automation? Actuated valves?
 
Thank you, Knauss. I have adjusted the flow to a lower speed a few months ago, it has helped a little not to much, it will always mess with the PH unfortunately. I am not sure how to keep the CH from raising, when I drain and fill with new water, it's always at 400. I will need to drain in the winter, I am going to try see if I can maintain it until Jan. or Feb. The CH is is raising each month. I know someone suggested adding a water softener to the fill line, I am not sure about that. I appreciate;) your help.
 
I am thinking of adding borates to the pool, to help manage the Ph and keep bees, wasps and pigeons out of the water. We had no idea that we had so many other animals around the yard, before the pool was built. I think some around us has a wasp nest, and this morning I found something that looked like a wasp, but it was big the body was black and the tail end was I think a orange color. :(. I just need to figure out how to add the borates and read more about it. I hope this works. :)
 
I do not use borates. I know it reduces the rate of rise of pH but does not reduce the amount of acid you will use overall.

CH is an issue with our water. You either drain/ refill every 18 months or use softened water for fill water.
 
Thank you, my CH is always climbing . When I drain and fill it is at at 400, last drain was oct or November last year . My CH is at 850 now. I have been making sure my numbers are all good
FC 5
PH 7.5
TA 70
Cya 30-this one always confuses me
CH 850

I don’t want to drain until Jan or Feb.
I ready that borates keeps bees and wasps out . We get a lot wasps, we had our house checked and they said they are coming from somewhere else. I’m not sure how to keep them away.
 
As I stated above our water has high CH. I am surprised it is 400 CH in your area. I would assume you are getting Colorado River water out of Lake Mead. It's CH is ~250 ppm.

I have no knowledge on the borates and bees. If you wish to add borates, read Borates - Why and How

If you have a CYA of 30 and you last drained in Nov 2017, how are you chlorinating?

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When you do the CYA test, try this next time.

Once you have your solution ready, back to the sun, etc. Fill the vial to a line, say 80, lower the vial to your waist level and glance for the dot, you see it, add solution to the 70 line, glance, see it, repeat until you no longer see it with a glance. Pour the solution back into the mixing bottle and redo the test several times. Take the average of your results and round up to the nearest whole 10.

The vial is in logarithmic scale. So it is not viable to interpolate between the lines. Just use the whole numbers, such as 50, 40, 30, ....
 

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