Starting to take care of my pool.. wondering if partial drain and replacement is a smart idea to start

[Newdude]

With respect to chlorine, I guess I can simply pour 1.5 qt of liquid chlorine daily in the pool and I will maintain the FC within the range I am targeting.

So long as it works. Adapt as necessary. Some dose everyday without testing every other day, others double dose and test the second day. As long as you're always verifying you're not cutting too close to min at the next test, you're golden. Dose as high as you need to, to accomplish the mission. If that's 4 above target range, so be it. You're safe to swim all the way up to slam. Never hesitate to use some of that safety net.

Real soon daily demand will start increasing and you have to account for the new loss. It levels off at the high point for the peak season, then slowly falls week over week for the fall.

For Ph, all highs out of range look like 8. (And same with really low Ph's). So it may be 8.3, but you think it's 8, and don't see it lower when it lowers to 8.1. Mix well for 15 mins, retest, and repeat until it's in range again.

and is it ok for me to keep adding MA every day to keep the pH between 7.6 and 7.8?

I like 8+ to 7.8 myself. It leaves you some wiggle room to accidentally overdose to 7.6. But there's no wrong way here.

Wouldn't that, at some point, bring the TA below the acceptable range?

With new plaster and it's healthy appetite for MA for the first year or so, you may need to raise the TA at times. 50+ is totally fine and the slightly lower TA will help the Ph rise. It still might not be great, but it will be better than new plaster PH rise *and* TA of 80+

 

[mm3621]

So long as it works. Adapt as necessary. Some dose everyday without testing every other day, others double dose and test the second day. As long as you're always verifying you're not cutting too close to min at the next test, you're golden. Dose as high as you need to, to accomplish the mission. If that's 4 above target range, so be it. You're safe to swim all the way up to slam. Never hesitate to use some of that safety net.

Real soon daily demand will start increasing and you have to account for the new loss. It levels off at the high point for the peak season, then slowly falls week over week for the fall.

For Ph, all highs out of range look like 8. (And same with really low Ph's). So it may be 8.3, but you think it's 8, and don't see it lower when it lowers to 8.1. Mix well for 15 mins, retest, and repeat until it's in range again.

I like 8+ to 7.8 myself. It leaves you some wiggle room to accidentally overdose to 7.6. But there's no wrong way here.

With new plaster and it's healthy appetite for MA for the first year or so, you may need to raise the TA at times. 50+ is totally fine and the slightly lower TA will help the Ph rise. It still might not be great, but it will be better than new plaster PH rise *and* TA of 80+

Thank you, appreciate your take on this. It makes me feel better that I can go ahead and keep adding liquid chlorine and MA daily.

The mystery remains on how I do not have a pool full of algae when my pool guy was keeping it consistently between 0 FC and 3-4 FC max during this time of the year (my min is supposed to be 5ppm) but hey, all that matters is that I understand how to keep it clean and sanitized now.

Thanks again!

 

[Newdude]

The mystery remains on how I do not have a pool full of algae when my pool guy was keeping it consistently between 0 FC and 3-4 FC max during this time of the year

Who says you didn't ? Can you see literally microscopic algae ? I sure can't. By the time you can see algae, it's waaaaaay too late.

It grows exponentially and those last few growth cycles are the difference between algae in clear water, and a swamp. Many inadvertently keep it at bay while believing they are sanitary because it's clear.

Frequent (and reliable) testing will throw you red flags so you can act while you still have the upper hand in the battle.

 

[mm3621]

True... well I can say that while the water was clear even before, since I started maintaining the FC at the recommended levels the water looks "super crystal clear", meaning it looks better than before. This is not to say it looked bad before, but perhaps it looked a 9 out of 10 before and now looks like 10 out of 10!

 

[wireform]

There's no reason to test your TA again and again. That will remain for the most part constant so test the PH as your doing. I'd recommend using the 31.54% strength as they cost about the same but you'll use half the amount for the same bang. Paint stores or Ace hardware carries it.

 

[Newdude]

since I started maintaining the FC at the recommended levels the water looks "super crystal clear",

We redifine peoples definition of clear on the daily.

And Welcome to the club !! Nothing makes up happier than expanding the club.

How Clear is TFP Clear?

 

[Newdude]

Paint stores or Ace hardware carries it.

For one data point by me (YMMV) :

Ace hardware has full strength for $9.99. Sherman Williams has full strength for $27.99
HD/lowes has half strength for $11 or $13

 

[mm3621]

Thank you both! I will look into buying the full strength then, makes total sense.

 

[dereksanders]

Just don’t store it in your garage.

 

[Ahultin]

Thank you both! I will look into buying the full strength then, makes total sense.

Howdy neighbor!
In our area, ace consistently has 31.45% ma and home depot is hit or miss. I've never found it at lowes over the 2.5yrs of pool ownership and maintenance.
I second the suggestion to look at a salt water chlorine generator. The only problem with the swcg is you might find pool maintenance to get a little boring lol.
Last comment - i don't see if it's been mentioned but your spillover spa and water fountain cause aeration which will cause a consistent ph rise if these run all the time. If you have automation you may be able to set it so spillover runs a couple times a day instead of consistently which will lower acid demand.