TA Readings extremely high

[pczurak]

TA Readings are extremely high so it seems.
Brand new inground 13000 gallon SWG pool just opened several days ago - the water temperature is still below 60 degree so did not add any salt yet.
Performed the test for the first time. (Test Kit - Rainbow Model 78) because that's what came with the pool.
They added 8 gallons of Chlorine to the water that was filled last fall for the start.

Test readings after 3 days of the pump running, because the water was not clear - it's clear now:
Chlorine - 0.4
ph - 8.0
Total Alkalinity - Had to add 29 drops of #3 solution to get it to turn light yellow so that's 2900 - is this normal for a brand new pool or did I do something wrong?

Instructions for TA from the test kit -
1. Fill Large test vial to lower broken line.
2. Add 1 drop solution #4
3. Add 1 drop solution #5
4. Add solution #3 one drop at a time necessary to change color to clear or light yellow.

#3 - Acid Demand & Total Alkalinity
#4 - Chlorine Neutralizer
#5 - Total Alkalinity Test

What's the best way to fix it, or should I wait until the salt is added before adjusting anything?

Thank You

 

[magiteck]

Hi neighbor, and welcome!

First - I looked up the directions for your test kit and the results say to multiply drops by 10, which would put you at 290, not 2900. High, but not absurdly high.

Second - Are you on public water? If so, both Appleton and Neenah get water from Lake Winnebago, and my fill water has a TA of about 90 — which would suggest your TA shouldn’t really be as high as it seems.

Third - While your Rainbow kit is probably OK for some really basic testing, I’d highly encourage you to get a proper/full kit like the Taylor K2006-C or the TFTestkits TF-100. I use the TF100 myself and it’s by far the better value, fresh reagents, and delivered fast.

Lastly - The solution for a high TA, if it is indeed high, is really just to control your PH. Use PoolMath to calculate how much Muriatic acid (Paint section at Menards, cheap) to lower your PH to ~ 7.2. That will lower the TA some as well. The pH will rise again quickly, and when it gets between 7.8/8 you’ll repeat the process and over time your TA will come down.

Once you’re able to get a full/recommended test kit like the ones I mentioned above, post up your full set of test results for us and we’ll make sure you’re all squared away.

In the meantime, read through the Pool School articles on this site. They’re amazing. Start with ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry for some great reading. I probably read it 3 times before my pool was installed.

You’ve come to a great forum. Stick around and your new pool will truly be “trouble free”!

 

[ajw22]

Welcome to TFP.

29 drops says your TA may be 290. You multiply drops by 10. Still high but not ridiculous.

You really cannot follow TFP Methods with that test kit. It cannot test higher levels of FC, or test CC, or test CH, or test CYA.

Get your self a good test kit. Either the TF100 Test Kits or the Taylor K-2006C.

Pool Test Kits - Further Reading

www.troublefreepool.com

 

[pczurak]

Hi neighbor, and welcome!

First - I looked up the directions for your test kit and the results say to multiply drops by 10, which would put you at 290, not 2900. High, but not absurdly high.

Second - Are you on public water? If so, both Appleton and Neenah get water from Lake Winnebago, and my fill water has a TA of about 90 — which would suggest your TA shouldn’t really be as high as it seems.

Third - While your Rainbow kit is probably OK for some really basic testing, I’d highly encourage you to get a proper/full kit like the Taylor K2006-C or the TFTestkits TF-100. I use the TF100 myself and it’s by far the better value, fresh reagents, and delivered fast.

Lastly - The solution for a high TA, if it is indeed high, is really just to control your PH. Use PoolMath to calculate how much Muriatic acid (Paint section at Menards, cheap) to lower your PH to ~ 7.2. That will lower the TA some as well. The pH will rise again quickly, and when it gets between 7.8/8 you’ll repeat the process and over time your TA will come down.

Once you’re able to get a full/recommended test kit like the ones I mentioned above, post up your full set of test results for us and we’ll make sure you’re all squared away.

In the meantime, read through the Pool School articles on this site. They’re amazing. Start with ABCs of Pool Water Chemistry for some great reading. I probably read it 3 times before my pool was installed.

You’ve come to a great forum. Stick around and your new pool will truly be “trouble free”!

Wow, that was fast!
Thank you for your help.
I guess I better order a better Test Kit and a better pair of glasses - that was 10ppm and for some reason, I read it as 100pm.

Just ordered
TF-100 Test Kit ™
Optional Items: Smart Stir
Optional Items: pH Meter
Optional Items: Salt Test Strips - Taylor

I will wait on the glasses.

 

[cowboycasey]

You will love the test kit

 

[DeanP66]

Get the Taylor K1766 drop test kit for your salt reading. Test strips don't cut it. The K1766 is very reliable. Don't rely on your salt generator's salt reading. They can be all over the place. K1766 for sure. I also recommend the speed stir. It makes testing easier and fun. No having to swirl your sample.

 

[ajw22]

Yup, get the K-1766 salt test, not the strips.

Problem is TFT does not have it for sale on their website at this time.

Amazon.com : TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-1766 DROP TEST CHLORIDE SALT WATER : Swimming Pool Liquid Test Kits : Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com : TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-1766 DROP TEST CHLORIDE SALT WATER : Swimming Pool Liquid Test Kits : Garden & Outdoor

www.amazon.com

 

[pczurak]

Yup, get the K-1766 salt test, not the strips.

Problem is TFT does not have it for sale on their website at this time.

Amazon.com : TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-1766 DROP TEST CHLORIDE SALT WATER : Swimming Pool Liquid Test Kits : Garden & Outdoor

Amazon.com : TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-1766 DROP TEST CHLORIDE SALT WATER : Swimming Pool Liquid Test Kits : Garden & Outdoor

www.amazon.com

That test kit came with the pool.

Thanks for your help.

 

[ajw22]

That test kit came with the pool.

Thanks for your help.

Put the test kits you are using in your signature. It helps us understand the source of numbers you post.

 

[pczurak]

Put the test kits you are using in your signature. It helps us understand the source of numbers you post.

This website is great! Or should I say people on this website are great! Not only you get free advice but you also get advice on how to get better advice!

 

[pczurak]

I received my Test Kit TF - 100 and here are the results.
Clorine = Cl -1 Br - 2
pH = > 8.2

FC = 2.0
CC = 0.5
CH = 250
TA = 320
CYA = 0 - filled the tube all the way and still could see the dot.

How should I proceed to fix this? - salt has not been added yet. The pool is at 50 degrees. Brand new - never used.

Thank You.

 

[cowboycasey]

using poolmath put 8.2 PH in current and 7.2 in target and add that much muriatic acid... You will do this a lot with your High TA but the TA will eventually come down..

Add enough CYA to bring your pool to 30 using poolmath

put 2.0 FC in current and 5 in target and add that much liquid chlorine..

repeat the next day

Salt, test your water and see if you have any salt now... do the same using poolmath for salt... what salt content does your SWG need?

Say 3500 put whatever comes up when you test in current and 3000 in target add that much, swirl around in pool and run pump for 24 hours... test salt again to see where you are at, if at 3000 perfect add the next 500 ppm.. if lower or higher adjust how much you add...

 

[PoolGate]

Have you ever put in CYA (cyanuric acid)? How do you chlorinate?

 

[ajw22]

TA = 320

A new kit sometimes has a static electric charge can build up on the R-0009 dropper bottle tip, causing the drops to be smaller than usual and making the test read higher than actual.

Were you wiping the tip between each drop?

Read the notes in ...

Total Alkalinity

A drop-based test used to measure the alkalinity in water. Alkalinity helps serve as a … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

Notes

• Sometimes a static electric charge can build up on the R-0009 dropper bottle tip, causing the drops to be smaller than usual and making the test read higher than actual. You can prevent this by wipping the tip of the dropper bottle with a damp cloth or tissue before you start and after each drop.
• Hold the dropper bottles vertically and squeeze gently, so that drops come out slowly and seem to hang on the tip of the dropper bottle for a moment before falling.

 

[pczurak]

Have you ever put in CYA (cyanuric acid)? How do you chlorinate?

I have not, this is a brand new pool, it's an SWG pool but the salt won't be put in until the next week so for now, I am adding liquid chlorine.

 

[pczurak]

A new kit sometimes has a static electric charge can build up on the R-0009 dropper bottle tip, causing the drops to be smaller than usual and making the test read higher than actual.

Were you wiping the tip between each drop?

Read the notes in ...

Total Alkalinity

A drop-based test used to measure the alkalinity in water. Alkalinity helps serve as a … Read more…

www.troublefreepool.com

Notes

• Sometimes a static electric charge can build up on the R-0009 dropper bottle tip, causing the drops to be smaller than usual and making the test read higher than actual. You can prevent this by wipping the tip of the dropper bottle with a damp cloth or tissue before you start and after each drop.
• Hold the dropper bottles vertically and squeeze gently, so that drops come out slowly and seem to hang on the tip of the dropper bottle for a moment before falling.

I was wiping, but I did not understand the purpose of that until now, thanks.

 

[pczurak]

using poolmath put 8.2 PH in current and 7.2 in target and add that much muriatic acid... You will do this a lot with your High TA but the TA will eventually come down..

Add enough CYA to bring your pool to 30 using poolmath

put 2.0 FC in current and 5 in target and add that much liquid chlorine..

repeat the next day

Salt, test your water and see if you have any salt now... do the same using poolmath for salt... what salt content does your SWG need?

Say 3500 put whatever comes up when you test in current and 3000 in target add that much, swirl around in pool and run pump for 24 hours... test salt again to see where you are at, if at 3000 perfect add the next 500 ppm.. if lower or higher adjust how much you add...

Thank you so much!

 

[pczurak]

using poolmath put 8.2 PH in current and 7.2 in target and add that much muriatic acid... You will do this a lot with your High TA but the TA will eventually come down..

Add enough CYA to bring your pool to 30 using poolmath

put 2.0 FC in current and 5 in target and add that much liquid chlorine..

repeat the next day

Salt, test your water and see if you have any salt now... do the same using poolmath for salt... what salt content does your SWG need?

Say 3500 put whatever comes up when you test in current and 3000 in target add that much, swirl around in pool and run pump for 24 hours... test salt again to see where you are at, if at 3000 perfect add the next 500 ppm.. if lower or higher adjust how much you add...

In the Pool Math, it's "asking What will you use to lower pH?" 14.5% or 29% Muriatic Acid. How do I know which one to select? I have "Klean Strip green Muriatic Acid" can I use that for the pool?

 

[PoolGate]

In the Pool Math, it's "asking What will you use to lower pH?" 14.5% or 29% Muriatic Acid. How do I know which one to select? I have "Klean Strip green Muriatic Acid" can I use that for the pool?

I can' find anywhere on the label where it lists the concentration. I also can't find anything that says if there are any additives. Personally, I would not use it.

 

[pczurak]

I can' find anywhere on the label where it lists the concentration. I also can't find anything that says if there are any additives. Personally, I would not use it.

Thanks, I have to pick up some chlorine anyway so I will get the right stuff.