I have an AquaRite with T-9 cell that is not producing chlorine. FC in the pool says zero, but the water looks beautiful even through this massive heat wave this month. I inspected the salt cell and it is clean. This is my first time looking at diagnostics in depth, so please bear with my lack of knowledge as this is our first full season after installation last summer. I clicked through the diagnostics and saw that I had a salt reading of 5000, then all other readings looked good, including a -3100 setting. However, then it showed that my unit was set to T-3 cell. I tested the water at home, then took it to Leslie's and both readings were 3100. I just recalibrated my salt and it is now set to 3100. I also changed the cell to T-9. I just turned my unit to superchlorinate. I have no idea when or how the cell unit got to T-3...honestly, it could have been like that since it was installed last summer and I'd have never known the difference. Would that have caused the readings to go out of whack and no chlorine to be produced?
SWG not producing chlorine
- Thread starter michellegerman
- Start date
What are all of the diagnostic readings?
Check the readings, move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
Do you have a good test kit and a salt test kit?
If not, I recommend that you get one.
tftestkits.net
Check the readings, move the switch to off for a minute and then back to auto and recheck the readings.
Do you have a good test kit and a salt test kit?
If not, I recommend that you get one.
TF-100 Test Kit
K-1766 Taylor Salt Test
tftestkits.net
Yes, I verified salt readings with K-1766, my salt meter, and at Leslie's. Diagnostics are now 3100 (was 5000 until I recalibrated), 90, 25.4, 5.4, 81P, -3100, AL-5, r 1.59, t-9 (I changed it from t-3, no idea how long it was like that as I didn't install pool).
Edit: Now I'm seeing that the program code should be AL-0 to signify "Aqua Rite". No idea why it would say AL-5, but I have just changed it to AL-0.
Edit: Now I'm seeing that the program code should be AL-0 to signify "Aqua Rite". No idea why it would say AL-5, but I have just changed it to AL-0.
Last edited:
If the settings are randomly changing, it's usually due to a bad connection between the display board and the main circuit board. If you pull it off and reinstall it, that will usually help.
I'm sorry if I wasn't clear. I'm not sure if my installer ever had it set up properly to begin with. I was asking if those settings would cause chlorine to not be produced.
It was probably set correctly. Most likely, the settings changed due to a bad connection between the display board and the main board.
AL-0 is AquaRite
AL-1 NatureSoft
AL-2 MineralSprings
AL-3 SmartPure
AL-4 This changes the default display from average salt to percent output.
AL-5 This is used with Jandy automation.
Aquarite, naturesoft, mineralsprings and smartpure are essentially the same unit with different branding. Hayward does private labels for certain companies. al-0 to al-3 are basically equivalent other than a superficial name change. AL-4 is not about the name, it just changes the default display. AL-5 needs to be selected for the Jandy automation to control the unit properly.
AL-5 could make it not produce because it would be waiting for control from a Jandy automation box.
The T-3 setting might cause a problem if the amps went too high and the box shut down with a high amps/salinity warning.
AL-0 is AquaRite
AL-1 NatureSoft
AL-2 MineralSprings
AL-3 SmartPure
AL-4 This changes the default display from average salt to percent output.
AL-5 This is used with Jandy automation.
Aquarite, naturesoft, mineralsprings and smartpure are essentially the same unit with different branding. Hayward does private labels for certain companies. al-0 to al-3 are basically equivalent other than a superficial name change. AL-4 is not about the name, it just changes the default display. AL-5 needs to be selected for the Jandy automation to control the unit properly.
AL-5 could make it not produce because it would be waiting for control from a Jandy automation box.
The T-3 setting might cause a problem if the amps went too high and the box shut down with a high amps/salinity warning.
mguzzy
Gold Supporter
the Diagnistic display sequence should be something like this:
LCD Display Diag Button Sequence
(0) Default- Salinity (24 hr Avg) (xxx ppm)
(1) Temperature (xx ºF)
(2) Cell Voltage xx.x volts
30-35v not generating, 22-25v when generating
(3) Cell Current x.xx amps
0A not generating, 4.5-7.8A when generating
(4) Desired Output (0-100P)
(5) Instant Salinity (-xxxx ppm)
(6) Product Name (AL-0)
(7) Software Rev (r1.40)
(8) Cell type (t-x)
I don't think you can change the AL reading. Having the salt cell set incorrectly probably caused some miss readings by the controller. Anyway, is the Salt reading you have been quoting your instant or 24 hr average? The best way to see if is producing is to put a test strip in front of the return nozzle or collect some water from the nozzle with a tube while it is generating. There should be a difference in the amount of CL from the stream and pool water, obviously you expect the stream to be higher. The easiest way to make it start a generating cycle is to simply turn the controller off and back on again. if you see numbers in the instant salt reading then it is generating.
Once you have confirmed its generating the next step is to start working on the chemistry to support it.
Edit: just saw James's post.. I thought the AL setting was set by the manufacturer and couldn't changed by the end user.
LCD Display Diag Button Sequence
(0) Default- Salinity (24 hr Avg) (xxx ppm)
(1) Temperature (xx ºF)
(2) Cell Voltage xx.x volts
30-35v not generating, 22-25v when generating
(3) Cell Current x.xx amps
0A not generating, 4.5-7.8A when generating
(4) Desired Output (0-100P)
(5) Instant Salinity (-xxxx ppm)
(6) Product Name (AL-0)
(7) Software Rev (r1.40)
(8) Cell type (t-x)
I don't think you can change the AL reading. Having the salt cell set incorrectly probably caused some miss readings by the controller. Anyway, is the Salt reading you have been quoting your instant or 24 hr average? The best way to see if is producing is to put a test strip in front of the return nozzle or collect some water from the nozzle with a tube while it is generating. There should be a difference in the amount of CL from the stream and pool water, obviously you expect the stream to be higher. The easiest way to make it start a generating cycle is to simply turn the controller off and back on again. if you see numbers in the instant salt reading then it is generating.
Once you have confirmed its generating the next step is to start working on the chemistry to support it.
Edit: just saw James's post.. I thought the AL setting was set by the manufacturer and couldn't changed by the end user.