SWG not producing chlorine

[Sean_T]

Hello all,

Thank you for taking the time to read this. We opened our pool on Monday. This is our 3rd season since buying the home. The pool has a Hayward T-9 cell. Unfortunately, the cell doesn't seem to be producing chlorine.

I ran the pump for three straight days and tested each day at Leslie's. (Note, after reading the Pool School section, I ordered my own testing kit yesterday.) My salt level at the store and on the reader is 3200. The ph is within range. However, I'm not getting any chlorine. I ran the heater today to see if that might prompt the cell to produce more, but it did not work. The output % is at 100%. There are no concerning lights.

The pool is clear and looks great, but I fear that won't last once we start swimming.

I had our pool company take a look today. The owner tested for Nitrates and said I have a high level and should drain the pool and go from there. I don't want to do that unless I'm sure the T-9 is working correctly.

They are supposed to clean the cell each fall when they close the pool. I am thinking I will unplug the cell tomorrow and take a look. Besides cleaning it, are there other things I can try? Is there a way I can test the cell? Any other suggestions?

 

[mknauss]

Welcome to the forum!
Can you run the diagnostics on the SWCG unit and post them here.
Nitrates are not the issue.

Let's see if @JamesW can guide you.

Start adding liquid chlorine daily based on FC/CYA Levels until you get the SWCG running.

I suggest you read ABC's of Pool Water Chemistry and consider reviewing the entire Pool School eBook.

 

[JamesW]

The diagnostic readings should tell us what we need to know.

If the instant salinity is accurate, the cell is working.

Do you have aquarite or prologic?

What are the first four characters of the serial number of the cell?

Most likely, you just need to SLAM.

An OCLT can help diagnose the issue.

Here's the approximate output of each cell.
T3 puts out .56lbs/24 hrs
t5 - .74/24 hrs
t9 - .98/24 hrs
t15 - 1.45/24hrs

A T-9 will create about 6.7 ppm running at 100% for 24 hours.

You should expect to need to run 12 hours per day at 100% for normal operation.

If you have algae starting, the cell can't keep up and you will have to SLAM using liquid chlorine.

 

[aussieta]

what is your water temperature, most swg will not produce chlorine if temp is below 60f
if water is over 60, take a sample from the return jet, which should be super chlorinated, if there is such a term
test this sample
lastly as you are aware, pool store testing is worth exactly how much you paid for it... nothing

 

[Sean_T]

Thank you, @JamesW and @mknauss.

I have aquarite. The first characters are 3E14. If this is not what you need, please let me know.

Here are the diagnostics:

3400
88
26.5
4.98
100P
-3200
AL-0
r1.59
t-9

The water was originally at 69 degrees. I was running the heater yesterday in anticipation of swimming. Let me know if this is a mistake.

Is there anything else I can provide you? I appreciate the support.

 

[mknauss]

The cell is generating.

We suggest an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Raise your FC to 20% of your CYA with liquid chlorine for the test

To do that, you need to have a proper test kit. We recommend the TF100 - Test Kits Compared

 

[YippeeSkippy]

You only want to clean a cell *if* it needs it. Each time its cleaned you shorten its lifespan.

While your SWG is on the fritz, or until you can determine if its really working but you have algae, use liquid chlorine to keep your FC up.

You need to obtain your own test kit. Pool Store tests don't cut it.. We need to know we're all speaking the same testing language and perform the tests the same way for consistency.

Nitrates mean nothing. Ignore anyone who suggests you should drain your pool based on nitrates.

Maddie

 

[Sean_T]

The cell is generating.

We suggest an Overnight Chlorine Loss Test. Raise your FC to 20% of your CYA with liquid chlorine for the test

To do that, you need to have a proper test kit. We recommend the TF100 - Test Kits Compared

Thank you so much. I ordered the K-2006. Unfortunately, it's not scheduled to arrive for 5 days. Is there a FC only test I can get at Leslie's? My three in-store water tests showed my CYA at 0. I am working to raise it. So if I get it up to 80, does that mean I need to bring FC to 16? can I do it simultaneously?

 

[mknauss]

Do not bring your CYA up to 80 yet. Target 30-40 ppm CYA so when you get your kit, if you need to SLAM, you will not have issues with the higher CYA.

Leslies does not have the tests you need.

Did you purchase the K2006C, the C is important. The regular K2006 will need certain reagent refills immediately.

The better value is the TF100. More of the reagents you will mostly use.

 

[Sean_T]

Do not bring your CYA up to 80 yet. Target 30-40 ppm CYA so when you get your kit, if you need to SLAM, you will not have issues with the higher CYA.

Leslies does not have the tests you need.

Did you purchase the K2006C, the C is important. The regular K2006 will need certain reagent refills immediately.

The better value is the TF100. More of the reagents you will mostly use.

Thank you @mknauss . If I can find a retailer who sells the TF100 I will buy that today. Suggestions?
I bought the K2006 through Amazon, not the K2006C. (Shoots self in foot.) I can return it.

 

[mknauss]

TF100 is available at TFTestkits.net. They are in N Carolina.

 

[Sean_T]

Nitrates mean nothing. Ignore anyone who suggests you should drain your pool based on nitrates.

Thank you! I needed to hear this.

 

[JamesW]

The cell was made in 2014. Typical life is about 5 to 7 years.

Your diagnostic readings indicate that the cell is performing and making chlorine.

The Aquarite is easy to diagnose.

Basically, you just divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity to see how well the cell is performing.

As long as the number is at least 75% you're good.

You just need a SLAM.

 

[Saturn94]

The cell was made in 2014. Typical life is about 5 to 7 years.

Your diagnostic readings indicate that the cell is performing and making chlorine.

The Aquarite is easy to diagnose.

Basically, you just divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity to see how well the cell is performing.

As long as the number is at least 75% you're good.

You just need a SLAM.

Great info! ?

I wondered at what point the difference in readings would indicate a failing cell.

 

[Sean_T]

The cell was made in 2014. Typical life is about 5 to 7 years.

Your diagnostic readings indicate that the cell is performing and making chlorine.

The Aquarite is easy to diagnose.

Basically, you just divide the instant salinity by the actual salinity to see how well the cell is performing.

As long as the number is at least 75% you're good.

You just need a SLAM.

You are all awesome.